lisbonchick

Disclamer: many, many elephants…

This is definitely one of my favourite parks and I have been to a few… The park forms part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area, bordering Mozambique and South Africa and stretching over 5,000 square kilometres in south-eastern Zimbabwe. Gonarezhou means “place of elephants” and you do see plenty of those as well as hippos, crocs, zebra, giraffe… This is a wild, untamed wilderness paradise. Rivers flow through the landscape, creating pools where elephants, antelope, and hundreds of birds gather. The Chilojo red sandstone cliffs overlook the valleys below, offering views that take your breath away. The sunrises, the sunsets, the rivers and the wildlife. Gonarezhou is a place that stays with you long after you leave and a place I want to go keep going back to.

From Maputo, it is a 7 hourish trip to the Chicualacuala/Sango border. A quick stop in Chokwe for a bite to eat is included in this time. From Chokwe, it is a pretty straight, good condition road all the way to the border. The border is a small affair and both times we’ve been there, we have found it to be empty, literally! No people, no staff. You may need to wait for the immigration officer to arrive, then the customs officer, then the gate officer. No rush. Once you cross the border, you are almost inside the park. We opted to stay at Swimuwini for the night before making our way up to the north of the park.

Next stop was Bhenji Weir, a wilderness campsite with a covered platform elevated above the water with sweeping views of the Bhenji Stream Valley and the main game trails to the spring although sadly, there was no water. The weather was incredibly hot, most days it got above 40 degrees, sometimes more. We were visited by a lone elephant, many impalas and kudos, and hyenas at night. A breathtaking and isolated spot.

From Bhenji Weir, we headed to Chipinda Pools campsite, a stunning spot right on the riverbank. The best part? You don’t even have to drive far, wildlife comes right to you! Sitting in our chairs, we watched elephants, nyala, impala, hippo, kudu, crocs, and countless birds, just like a private show.

The three main rivers in Gonarezhou National Park are the Mwenezi (western border), the Runde (flowing through the centre) and the Save (forming the eastern boundary).  There are many river crossings of various difficulty, especially in the northern part of the park. Lots of fun to cross and explore.

We went back to the Chilojo Cliffs view point, a spectacular view, it’s like being on top of the world. Wasn’t expecting to see elephants so high up on the steep slopes of the cliffs! There were many elephant herds below but too small to see in the photos. Although the scenery is amazing, the photos really don’t capture its magnitude.

Around the base of the cliffs, you’ll find beautiful wild campsites and a handful of great picnic spots. The views from here are breathtaking. It’s one of those places where you truly feel the vastness and wild beauty of Gonarezhou. As always, elephants are everywhere, so majestic and impossible to miss. For me, spotting them so often never loses its magic.

Chipinda causeway crossing …. so beautiful.

Chivilila Wilderness Camp and Gorge is breathtaking — wild, remote, and wonderfully untouched. The views are absolutely incredible, stretching across the rocky landscape. It would be an amazing place to camp if you’re after solitude and scenery, though with no shade, it’s definitely one to save for cooler weather!

The Chivilila Falls viewpoint offers spectacular views of the waterfalls and rapids. Spotted a few elephants cooling off and splashing in the water below.

Chinguli Campsite is easily one of my favourite campsites. The setting is absolutely stunning, with sweeping views that change beautifully throughout the day with the sunrise and sunsets. It’s the kind of place where you can just sit and relax for days on end.

Tembwahata Pan, full of elephants coming to drink and bathe. The park was so hot and dry, the pans were teeming with animals and birds. We followed this herd as they walked towards the water and watched them play and drink for a while.

Machaniwa Pan was absolutely incredible, alive with hundreds of birds and animals all around. The sounds, the movement, and the abundance of wildlife made it a magical spot! There is a campsite and a picnic spot near the pan, well worth staying here.