lisbonchick

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I love adventure and exploring new places.

  • Magical Christmas in Edinburgh, Brighton and Lisbon: Festive Adventures

    Spending Christmas in Europe isn’t something we do very often, so this year felt a little special. We had two weeks in Edinburgh, petsitting the most adorable dog in a cosy flat right by the canal. Yes, it was chilly but honestly? I loved every bit of it. The walks with the dog were beautiful, and there’s something about Edinburgh in winter that just gets under your skin.

    Three people smiling together indoors, with a window showing a street view in the background.
    Fresh off the plane

    We had the pleasure of looking after Puzzle, the most gorgeous dog who quickly became our unofficial tour guide. There’s something about having a dog to look after that gives your days a lovely focus.

    A scenic view of a river with a small waterfall, surrounded by trees and foliage.

    The flat itself was perfectly placed, right on the canal, which made for the most magical early morning walks. The sunrise over the water, the stillness, the reflections shimmering on the surface… it was the kind of thing that makes you stop and just breathe it all in.

    A sunset view over a canal surrounded by residential buildings and boats, with reflections in the water.
    A scenic view of a canal with reflections of terraced buildings and blue railings, under a partly cloudy sky.
    A black narrowboat moored on a calm canal, with a colorful mural on its side, reflected in the water. In the background, there are charming, small, colorful shed-like structures and bare trees, under a clear sky.
    A black narrowboat moored on a calm canal, reflecting the surrounding brick buildings and blue sky.
    A serene canal scene at sunset featuring moored narrowboats reflecting in the still water, with colorful clouds in the sky and urban buildings in the background.
    A tranquil scene featuring modern buildings reflected in a calm body of water, with a colorful sky at sunset and people walking along the path.
    A tranquil canal scene featuring buildings with modern architecture reflected in the water, under a colorful sky during sunset.
    A view of a river lined with buildings featuring a mix of architectural styles, including modern and traditional designs, under a cloudy sky.
    Reflection of buildings and a tree in calm water with dry grass in the foreground.
    A canal bordered by modern buildings, reflecting a colorful sky at sunset.

    Day out watching them trying not to fall off!

    A group of five people posing for a photo in a bouldering gym, with climbing walls in the background.
    Group of five climbers at an indoor bouldering gym, engaged in climbing practice on a textured wall with colorful holds.
    A young woman climbing an indoor rock wall, wearing a purple sweatshirt and black leggings, with colorful climbing holds in various shapes and sizes around her.
    A climber scaling a bouldering wall with colorful holds in an indoor climbing gym.
    A group of six people poses in front of a green-lit structure with bars, resembling a jail cell, while one person is locked inside. The setting has a playful atmosphere.

    There are some amazing escape rooms in Edinburgh, perfect for all of us!

    Smiling woman wearing a furry hat and a gray coat, holding a smartphone, outdoors with trees in the background.
    And a walk by the river. So cold but only a drizzle…
    A smiling couple wearing furry hats, standing outdoors by a lake surrounded by trees.
    A man standing on a muddy path beside a calm lake, surrounded by bare trees and autumn leaves.
    Three swans swimming in a calm body of water, surrounded by tall grass and trees.

    Christmas in Edinburgh was a feast for the eyes and everything else too. The lights, the shops, the food, the bustling crowds… there’s an energy to the city at that time of year that’s hard not to get swept up in. I loved being able to just wander, pop into cafes, and eat far too much food. No complaints there. We visited the Xmas market and enjoyed all the twinkling lights.

    Night view of a vibrant city square illuminated with colorful lights, featuring a large ferris wheel, illuminated buildings, and a billboard display.
    A brightly lit carousel at night, featuring ornate horses and colorful decorations, set against a dark background.
    A brightly lit Ferris wheel at night, featuring colorful LED lights and passenger cabins, set against a dark sky.
    Panoramic view of Edinburgh city at dusk, featuring the historic Edinburgh Castle perched on a rocky cliff with modern buildings and mountains in the background.
    Edinburgh Castle viewed from the entrance, showcasing its historic stone architecture and adorned with various flags, under a cloudy sky.
    A reflective image capturing two individuals taking a selfie with a dog, set against a cobblestone street lined with historic buildings and pedestrians in the background.
    A narrow passageway called 'Jollie's Close' with a decorative sign overhead, featuring a barred gate, stone walls, and a lit lantern. In the background, a Christmas tree is visible, illuminated by warm lights.
    A funhouse mirror reflection showing two individuals: one with an excited expression and the other looking at their phone. The background features festive decorations and a historic building.
    A bagpiper dressed in traditional Scottish attire, including a kilt and feathered hat, playing the bagpipes against a stone wall. A case on the ground displays a sign requesting tips and contains coins and small bills.
    Exterior view of Bertie's, a fish and chips restaurant, adorned with festive decorations and lights, showcasing a traditional stone building.
    A close-up view of a stone wall with curved shadow patterns created by light shining through a barred window, showcasing an artistic interplay of light and shadow.
    A picturesque cobblestone street in a historic town, lined with charming buildings, adorned with festive lights and decorations, bustling with pedestrians during twilight.
    View of Edinburgh Castle perched on a hill, surrounded by trees and historic buildings, during twilight.
    A historic stone fortress built on a rocky hill under a clear blue sky.

    Pentland Hills Regional Park, beautiful walk with views over Edinburgh

    Three friends joyfully posing on a hiking trail, surrounded by trees, with one person waving and others smiling.
    A scenic view from a hilltop overlooking a winding path through greenery, with a sprawling landscape and distant hills in the background under a cloudy sky.
    A couple walking along a gravel pathway through a scenic landscape with sparse trees and grassy terrain.
    A scenic view of a winding pathway leading down a grassy hill, overlooking a city and body of water in the distance, under a cloudy sky.
    A tranquil view of a calm lake surrounded by lush green trees and rolling hills under a cloudy sky.
    A group of four friends smiling and posing for a selfie outdoors, with a scenic landscape in the background featuring rolling hills and a cloudy sky.

    Towards Arthur’s Seat

    A group of three people smiling and waving on a grassy hillside, with a small dog resting nearby. The sky is partly cloudy.
    A panoramic view of a city, showcasing a mix of modern and historical buildings, including a castle in the background, with residential areas in the foreground and a cloudy sky.
    Two people sitting on a hilltop overlooking a cityscape with buildings, a body of water, and distant hills in the background.
    Two people sitting on a rocky hillside overlooking a cityscape at sunset, with dramatic clouds in the sky.

    Yet another walk around Prestonhill quarry near Dalgety Bay

    A serene landscape featuring a calm lake surrounded by steep rock cliffs and sparse trees, with reflections visible on the water's surface.
    Two people standing by a calm body of water in a quarry. One is gesturing playfully while the other stands with a smile, both dressed for cooler weather.
    A young woman and a young man posing together near a lake, surrounded by rocky cliffs and greenery, on an overcast day.
    Coastal scene featuring a rocky shoreline and a row of seaside houses with red roofs under a cloudy sky.
    A bird with an orange chest perched on a branch surrounded by green leaves.

    Brighton

    After being in a balmy Edinburgh, we moved onto the sunny coast where we froze in sub zero temperatures and snow. Welcome to Brighton!

    A person wearing a black hooded jacket and a face mask stands outdoors, with a suburban street in the background. The image captures the person's eyes and part of their face, while they are bundled up against the cold weather.
    A man standing on a snowy sidewalk, wearing a warm jacket and hat, with arms outstretched in a playful pose.
    A foggy landscape featuring a frost-covered field, with bare branches extending into the frame and blurred trees visible in the background.

    Brighton has a way of surprising you. Step away from the seafront buzz and within minutes you’re up on the South Downs, with sweeping views across the city, the coast, and miles of rolling green hills. The contrast is striking, one moment you’re in a lively seaside town, the next you’re out in open countryside with nothing but the wind and the sound of your own footsteps.

    The walks around the Downs are simply stunning. Wide chalk paths wind through the hills, passing through patches of woodland and opening up to those big, breathtaking views that make you feel very small in the best possible way. It’s the kind of walking that clears your head without you even realising it. On a snowy, crisp day, the light is simply stunning, with a low sun and a feeling of freshness in the air.

    A scenic view of a pathway leading through rolling green hills, with a bright sun rising in the background and a tree silhouetted against the sky.
    Scenic view of a snow-covered hillside with a winding path, trees, and a bright sun shining through the clouds.
    A snowy path leads through a grassy area with shadows of two people walking, alongside a parked car and wooden fencing under a clear blue sky.
    A scenic landscape showing a snowy path leading to rolling hills under a clear blue sky, with the sun rising on the horizon.
    A snowy pathway winds through a green landscape under a bright sun and clear blue sky.
    Snow-covered fields under a clear blue sky with a few wispy clouds.
    A herd of brown cows grazing on snowy hills under a clear blue sky.
    A scenic winter landscape featuring rolling hills covered in snow, under a clear sky with a bright sun illuminating the scene, and soft clouds in the distance.
    A tranquil pond surrounded by houses on a sunny day, with some birds on the ice.

    Lisbon

    Sadly, our Lisbon stay was cut short! It is always fun to stroll through the streets and see the views and a shame not to have more time to do so. We visited the Museu do Aljube: Resistência e Liberdade dedicated to the 1974 Carnation Revolution and the fight against the 1926–1974 dictatorship. Located in a former political prison, it documents resistance, repression, and the path to democracy. You can still see the horrible cells and learn more about the fascism era, the colonies and the resistance movement.

    View of an architectural courtyard with stone walls and arches, seen through a metal grate, overlooking a body of water and rooftops.
    A panoramic view of a cityscape featuring densely packed buildings with red-tiled roofs, highlighting the architectural character and layout of the urban area.
    Narrow cobblestone alleyway with colorful decorations, leading to a bright sky and buildings in the background.
    panoramic view of colorful rooftops in Lisbon, Portugal, with a prominent church and the river in the background under a cloudy sky.

    The rest of the day was spent strolling through the charming streets of Alfama, the historic heart of Lisbon. There is something special about getting lost in its maze of narrow lanes, discovering hidden courtyards, local shops, and quiet corners filled with character. Despite having been here so many times, it always feels like I have stepped back in time, with history and everyday life blending together.

    narrow cobblestone street lined with pastel-colored buildings, some with balconies, laundry hanging outside, and a clear blue sky
    Narrow alleyway featuring colorful plants and a restaurant sign hanging above, with buildings in pastel colors on either side.
    A view looking down a narrow cobblestone staircase that leads to an arched passageway, with colorful buildings on either side and a hint of ocean visible in the distance.
    Narrow cobblestone alleyway flanked by colorful buildings with potted plants and decorative elements, leading to a stairway.
    Narrow staircase leading upwards between buildings, with graffiti on the steps and a blue sky above.
    A view of narrow streets with traditional tiled roofs and a large cruise ship docked in the background, under a partly cloudy sky.
    A panoramic view of a colorful cityscape with buildings featuring terracotta roofs, set against a bright blue sky with fluffy clouds, overlooking a body of water.
    Narrow staircase ascending through a tight alley with walls on either side and a street sign that reads 'Beco do Carneiro'.
    Front view of an old building with blue-tiled exterior, featuring multiple balconies with clothes drying, and a restaurant sign reading 'Alfama Grill'.
    A colorful street decorated with festive garlands in a Lisbon neighborhood, showcasing a small plaza with buildings, a musician figure on a balcony, and vibrant floral decorations.
    Decorative colorful garlands hanging over a white building, with a cobblestone street visible in the background.

    Mozambique

    And then it was back to Mozambique and the sunshine.

    Ponta Malongane is always a pleasure to return to, truly wild, peaceful, and beautifully untouched miles of unspoiled, empty beaches stretch as far as the eye can see, with barely another person in sight.

    The sea, though, demands respect. The waves are powerful and unpredictable, crashing in with a force that can knock you off your feet in seconds. Swimming here is very much at your own risk, but that raw, untamed energy is part of what makes it so unforgettable.

    A person walking on a sandy dune with green vegetation in the background and a clear blue sky.
    A scenic view of a sandy beach meeting the blue ocean, with rolling waves and green shrubbery in the foreground.
    A serene beach scene featuring a wide expanse of golden sand, gentle waves lapping at the shore, and a clear blue sky with a few clouds. Lush green hills are visible in the distance.
    A person in a blue outfit stands on a sandy beach with gentle waves lapping at the shore and green hills in the background, under a clear blue sky.
    A serene sunset over a wetland, with the sun dipping below the horizon, casting orange and yellow hues in the sky, reflected in the water and surrounded by greenery.
    Lush green tropical vegetation with palm trees under a night sky, featuring hints of clouds and distant light.
    Moonrise
    A beautiful sunset over a calm body of water, with vibrant orange and yellow hues contrasting against a blue sky filled with clouds.
    A construction vehicle on a dirt road surrounded by a large amount of garbage, with a wall in the background bearing graffiti that reads 'PROIBIDO DEITAR LIXO' (No Littering).

    Walking around Maputo. The sign says no rubbish…

    And so we come to another end. More adventures to follow when we take our road trip through Zambia, Malawi and Mozambique in June/July.

  • Hidden Gems of the Drakensberg, Sani Pass and Lesotho: Nature Travel Insights

    Wow, wow, wow! People say it is beautiful and worth visiting but I wasn’t prepared for just how stunning it was going to be. First stop Cathedral Peak, a 3,004 mountain in the Drakensberg. The Drakensberg is one of Southern Africa’s natural landscapes, stretching across eastern South Africa and forming a dramatic backdrop of towering peaks, deep valleys, and rolling green foothills. Known as the “Dragon Mountains,” it offers a striking mix of rugged cliffs, misty escarpments, and crystal clear streams.

    There is a sense of vastness and tranquillity, we barely saw anyone on our walks. It’s a place where nature feels untouched, time slows down, and every breathtaking view makes you want to pause and take it all in. We arrived in the rain and woke up to clouds and drizzle. Not the best start but tried a walk all the same to Doreen Falls.

    A panoramic view of green hills and rocky mountains shrouded in mist, under a cloudy sky.
    A thatched roof house situated on a grassy hillside, with green rolling hills and cloudy skies in the background.
    Our home with beautiful views at Didima, highly recommend it
    A unique round thatched-roof structure set in a green landscape, surrounded by rolling hills and mountains under a blue sky with fluffy clouds.
    When the sun came out
    Scenic landscape featuring rolling green hills and a reflective pond under a cloudy sky.
    Scenic landscape featuring a green hill with rocky cliffs under a cloudy sky, surrounded by lush grass and a winding path.
    A panoramic view of a lush, green landscape featuring dense vegetation, a winding road, a small building, and parked vehicles, with rolling hills and a golf course in the background.
    Car looking smaller and smaller, all roads lead to the top to Doreen Falls
    A hiker walking up a grassy hillside towards a fog-covered mountain.
    A lone hiker standing on a grassy hillside, with a misty mountain peak obscured by clouds in the background.
    A couple smiling for a selfie outdoors with a mountainous landscape in the background, surrounded by greenery and fog.
    A view of a suspension bridge surrounded by lush green vegetation and mountains under a cloudy sky.
    A scenic view of a lush green landscape featuring rolling hills, a winding river, and mountains under a clear blue sky with fluffy white clouds.
    A serene landscape featuring a winding river surrounded by lush green vegetation and rolling hills, with a misty mountain in the background.
    A serene view of a swimming pool surrounded by lush greenery, with rolling hills and mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
    Pool with a view but freezing cold!

    The sun started to come out so we ventured towards Blue Pools. Nice, gentle 8Km walk which was very enjoyable. It’s a relatively easy and accessible hike, making it perfect for a slow morning or afternoon walk. The trail winds through rolling grasslands and along clear mountain streams, with the dramatic backdrop of the Drakensberg mountains always in view. The pools were a little underwhelming but the views on the walk were stunning. We had the pleasure of walking with Josh and Rebeka and only crossed paths with one other couple. Truly had the place to ourselves.

    A panoramic view of a green mountain range under a cloudy sky, with lush vegetation and rocky cliffs.
    Scenic view of rolling green hills under a cloudy sky, showcasing lush vegetation and rocky cliffs.
    A winding dirt path through lush green hills with scattered trees under a cloudy sky.
    Three hikers posing in a grassy valley with lush green hills and a cloudy sky in the background, with trail signs pointing in different directions.
    Two hikers walking along a dirt path in a lush green valley, surrounded by hills and cloudy skies.
    A scenic view of lush green mountains and valleys under a partly cloudy sky.
    Two hikers walking on a grassy trail surrounded by green hills under a partly cloudy sky.
    A panoramic view of green hills and rocky cliffs under a cloudy sky.
    A panoramic view of lush green hills and mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
    Lush green hills with rocky formations under a partly cloudy sky.
    A hiker walking along a narrow path in a lush green valley surrounded by mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
    Two people standing in a stream surrounded by rocky terrain and lush greenery.
    Three people sitting on rocks by a stream surrounded by greenery, enjoying nature and each other's company.
    Two smiling individuals posing for a selfie, surrounded by rocks and greenery near a stream.
    Two people sitting by a flowing river, surrounded by rocks and greenery. One person is wearing a pink shirt and the other is in a blue tank top, both enjoying the natural setting.
    A panoramic view of a rocky hillside covered in green vegetation under a partly cloudy sky.
    Lush green valley landscape with rolling hills and rocky cliffs under a cloudy sky.
    A person in a blue tank top is bending over a stream, looking into the water while balancing on rocky terrain.
    Lush green mountains under a cloudy sky, showcasing diverse vegetation and rocky cliffs.
    Lush green hills with rocky cliffs surrounded by trees and a flowing river in a valley.
    A panoramic view of lush green hills and valleys under a cloudy sky.
    A hiker walking on a trail amidst a lush green landscape with rolling hills and mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
    A colorful grasshopper with yellow and black stripes sitting on a person's finger.
    Found some cute grasshoppers
    A close-up of a colorful grasshopper perched on a person's fingertip, showcasing its yellow body, intricate patterns, and large eyes.
    A brightly colored insect with red, blue, and black markings, resting on a textured surface.
    A panoramic view of lush green hills and rocky cliffs under a partly cloudy sky.
    A scenic landscape featuring rolling green hills, a calm blue lake, and a mountain range under a partly cloudy sky.
    A young deer standing on a stone path surrounded by lush greenery and vines.
    A scenic view of lush green mountains under a blue sky with clouds, featuring a bird flying in the top left corner.
    Cathedral Peak made a quick appearance!

    Baboons seemed to like chilling on the road and are not afraid of cars. It required some manoeuvring to slalom around these guys.

    A group of baboons walking on grass near a road, surrounded by tall grass and bushes.
    A group of baboons sitting along a rural road surrounded by greenery and mountains under a cloudy sky.
    A group of baboons sitting on a road surrounded by lush green trees and a directional sign for Didima.
    A group of four baboons resting on a road, surrounded by tall grass.
    A baboon and its baby sitting together on a road, surrounded by greenery.

    From Cathedral Peak, we drove over towards the Sani Pass in Lesotho and stayed at Sani Lodge and Cottages. A really lovely place to stay with cosy rondavels with a hot tub outside, a spacious communal living room and kitchen with a fireplace which we used in the evenings. It is Fair Trade Tourism certified and supports local communities and Basotho culture through tours. Their emphasis is on sustainability and ethical travel and it is reflected in everything that they do. Beautiful walks on the doorstep including the Giants CupTrail. From the lodge, you can walk all the way up to the top of the mountain. It is an uphill walk over a rocky path but the views at the top are magnificent.

    A rustic outdoor scene featuring a hot tub and a wood-burning stove, with a thatched-roof cottage in the background. The setting is surrounded by lush greenery and illuminated windows at dusk.
    Hot tub
    Close-up view of a grasshopper perched on the edge of a sign, with green foliage blurred in the background.
    A close-up of a grasshopper perched on a white surface, surrounded by green foliage.
    Close-up of a yellow and black spider in its web, surrounded by smaller spiders and remnants of prey.
    Golden orb (I think?) spider with babies
    A close-up of a vibrant yellow spider on its intricately woven web with a blurred natural background.
    A panoramic view of green hills and cliffs under a bright blue sky with a few clouds.
    That’s where we are going!
    A scenic landscape showing lush green hills and a small village nestled among them, with a clear blue sky and fluffy clouds overhead.
    A panoramic view of lush green hills and mountains under a clear blue sky.
    A panoramic view of rolling green hills and mountains under a clear blue sky.
    A smiling woman and man posing for a selfie outdoors, surrounded by green grass and a sunny landscape.
    A man standing on a hillside, pointing towards a distant landscape that includes rolling green hills and a lake, wearing a backpack and a cap.
    A panoramic view of a calm lake surrounded by green hills and grasslands under a clear blue sky.
    A woman sitting on a rocky ledge with her arms outstretched, enjoying the panoramic view of lush green valleys and mountains in the background.
    The top!
    A panoramic view of lush green hills and valleys under a clear blue sky, with rocky terrain in the foreground.
    A panoramic view of mountains and hills under a clear blue sky, with the sun shining brightly above the landscape.
    A panoramic view of a lush green valley surrounded by mountains under a clear blue sky.
    A person sitting on a rock ledge overlooking a lush green valley and distant mountains under a clear blue sky.
    A woman sitting on a rock at the top of a hill, smiling with a scenic view of green valleys and mountains in the background, under a clear blue sky.
    Panoramic view of rolling hills and valleys under a clear blue sky.
    A man sitting on a rock in a lush green landscape with mountains and a blue sky in the background, enjoying a scenic view.
    A hiker wearing a blue shirt and shorts stands on a rocky trail in a grassy landscape, looking towards a cliff under a clear blue sky.
    A vibrant sunset over rolling hills, with orange and purple clouds scattered across the sky.

    The highlight was yet to come – Sani Pass. What a magnificent drive it was. This is apparently a very scary and dangerous road – we found it ok and were more taken with the scenery that with any danger. It is described as “a dramatic, steep 4X4 gravel road linking South Africa to Lesotho climbing over 1,000 meters in just 8 kilometres to a height of 2,876m. Renowned for hairpin bends, steep drops, and spectacular scenery, it requires a capable 4×4 vehicle to navigate its rocky, steep terrain and provides access to the “highest pub in Africa”. Truly spectacular, photos do not capture the beauty and scale of the place. The incredible valleys, created over millions of years, the waterfalls, the birds, the road itself.

    The drive to the border is also stunning, a small taster of what is to come.

    Lush green hills and mountains under a partly cloudy sky, showcasing the beauty of a natural landscape.
    Scenic view of rolling green hills and majestic mountains under a bright blue sky with fluffy white clouds.
    A person taking a photo of a scenic landscape featuring rolling hills and mountains in the background.
    A panoramic view of a lush green valley surrounded by rocky hills and distant mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
    A man standing on a hillside, gazing at lush, green mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
    A scenic view of a winding road through lush green hills and valleys under a partly cloudy sky.
    A person standing outdoors in a green mountainous landscape, holding a camera and taking a photograph.
    Lush green hills and mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
    Scenic view of lush green valleys and mountains under a partly cloudy sky, with a person standing near tall grass in the foreground.
    A panoramic view of green hills and mountains under a blue sky with scattered clouds.
    A panoramic view of a lush green valley surrounded by rolling hills and rocky outcrops under a partly cloudy sky.
    A scenic landscape featuring rolling green hills and steep mountains in the background, with a small waterfall visible among the foliage.
    Scenic view of green hills and rocky cliffs under a blue sky with scattered clouds, featuring a dirt path leading through the landscape.
    After the border crossing, going into the Sani Pass
    A winding dirt path surrounded by lush green hills and shrubs under a blue sky with wispy clouds.
    A white SUV parked on a dirt road in a mountainous landscape with lush green hills and cliffs under a blue sky.
    A scenic view of rolling green hills and valleys under a partly cloudy sky.
    A man and a woman smiling for a selfie on a hillside with lush green mountains and a cloudy sky in the background.
    A panoramic view of rolling green hills and valleys under a cloudy blue sky.
    A panoramic view of green hills and valleys with a winding dirt path, set against a backdrop of dramatic cliffs under a cloudy sky.
    A panoramic view of lush green hills and a rugged mountain range under a partly cloudy sky.
    Panoramic view of lush green hills and valleys under a partly cloudy sky.
    A sweeping view of a winding dirt road through lush green mountains and valleys under a blue sky.
    A panoramic view of rolling green hills and rugged cliffs under a partly cloudy sky, showcasing the natural beauty of a mountainous landscape.
    A winding dirt road leads through a mountainous landscape with rolling green hills and distant blue sky.
    A panoramic view of a lush green valley surrounded by mountains, with winding dirt paths leading through the landscape under a cloudy sky.
    Two birds perched on bare branches against a backdrop of colorful foliage.
    A small bird feeding on bright yellow flowers surrounded by green foliage.
    A bird perched on a thin branch among green foliage, showcasing its slender body and long beak.
    A colorful lizard resting on a rocky surface with a blurred natural background.
    A gravel road descends through rugged hills, with rocky terrain on either side and a distant green valley visible under a partly cloudy sky. Two weathered signposts stand along the side of the road.
    Winding dirt road surrounded by rocky cliffs and lush green hills under a blue sky.

    Going down! When you really hope the brakes work….

    A winding dirt road traversing a mountainous landscape with steep green hills and rocky cliffs.
    This gives you an idea

    Crossing into Lesotho felt like stepping into another world. As we drove up towards Black Mountain Pass, the landscape shifted dramatically—lush greens gave way to a vast, barren expanse, raw and untouched. The land stretched endlessly, dotted with hundreds of sheep and horses moving slowly across the high-altitude plains.

    Along the way, we passed shepherds living in small, weather worn huts, wrapped in blankets, pausing to wave, ask for a cigarette, or gesture for a photo. There was something striking about the simplicity and resilience of life up there.

    The scenery was both stunning and harsh, windswept, exposed, and almost otherworldly. It’s the kind of place that makes you feel very small, in the best possible way.

    A scenic landscape featuring rolling hills and a field covered in yellow flowers, with a horse and sheep grazing in the foreground.
    A scenic view of a rural landscape featuring a river flowing through grassy meadows surrounded by mountains. Several small farmhouses are visible in the background.
    A person standing in front of a large yellow frame sign at the Sani Pass, surrounded by mountainous terrain and a clear blue sky.
    Black Mountain pass at 3240 meters
    A woman sitting on a low wall at the Sani Pass, showcasing a sign that indicates the highest point at 3240 meters above sea level. The background features a scenic view of mountains and a road under a partly cloudy sky.
    A bit windy….
    A panoramic view of a rugged landscape with two horseback riders in the foreground, grazing horses, and sparse vegetation under a partly cloudy sky.

    I usually don’t feel comfortable photographing people and stick to landscapes and animals. These guys, however, were so keen to have their photo taken that I couldn’t say no. They are incredibly photogenic and so happy to see their photos. It reminded me of travelling in Mozambique in the early 90’s. As soon as you stopped on the road, people would appear from nowhere and want their photo taken. In those days they never got to see the pic as we had no digital cameras. These guys had no phones so we couldn’t send them the photos either. If I ever go back, I will print these and find them!

    A group of eight individuals standing and sitting on a paved surface, wrapped in colorful blankets and wearing various head coverings, set against a green hillside.
    A group of eight individuals, including a man in a blue shirt and shorts, standing together on a road with green hills in the background. They are wearing traditional clothing, including blankets and hats.
    Geoff trying to blend in, sadly forgot his blanket
    A person wearing a patterned sweater stands on a road, looking at a vibrant field of yellow flowers and green hills with grazing animals in the distance.
    Me trying to blend in with the sheep, they weren’t impressed
    A picturesque landscape featuring traditional stone huts with thatched roofs, surrounded by rocky terrain and rolling hills under a cloudy sky.
    A rural landscape featuring traditional stone huts with thatched roofs, set against a backdrop of rolling hills and mountains.
    Rural village landscape with stone houses and thatched roofs, featuring a small stream and people walking, set against rolling hills.
    A landscape featuring two traditional stone houses with thatched roofs in a rural setting, surrounded by grassy terrain and mountains in the background.
    He wanted me to ride the horse!
    My favourite!
    A man wearing a blue striped hat and a patterned scarf stands outdoors, with a road and grassy landscape in the background.
    Two individuals in traditional attire walking in a grassy field with a horse nearby and a distant sheep grazing.
    A person walks across a colorful meadow filled with wildflowers, accompanied by a child, while sheep and other grazing animals are seen in the background.
    A fluffy goat with curved horns standing in a field of bright yellow flowers.
    Lush green landscape with grazing animals, a river flowing through, and distant mountains, featuring traditional huts near the water.
    A traditional rural settlement featuring stone houses with thatched roofs, set against a mountainous landscape.
    Traditional stone huts with thatched roofs in a rural landscape surrounded by mountains and open fields.

    It was, sadly, time to leave Lesotho and the Drakensberg… What a magical place! Next stop, St Lucia on the way back to Maputo. St Lucia sits within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park UNESCO World Heritage Site with an estuary teeming with hippos and crocodiles and beautiful empty, wild beaches. The town itself is small and very safe apart from the hippos who walk around in the evenings. Going to Shoprite has never been so exciting!

    Vibrant mural warning of hippo danger with a large black hippo illustration, bright colors, and various symbols including 'danger', 'no entry', and 'warning'.
    A sign warning of hippos with a graphic of a hippo, stating 'DANGER HIPPOS!!' and instructions to keep a safe distance of 30 meters, located near a waste disposal area.
    Warning sign indicating wild boar presence with a speed limit of 40 km/h.
    Three hippos grazing on grass at night near a wall with 'Hornbill' written on it.
    Three hippos grazing on grass at night near a stop sign and a vehicle in the background.
    Two hippos grazing on grass beside a road at night, with a stop sign in the background and a vehicle approaching.
    Two hippopotamuses grazing near a wall at night, with soft lighting illuminating the scene.
    A hippopotamus walking past a closed shop, illuminated by neon signs, at night.
    A wild boar walking along a cobblestone pathway at night, with restaurant signage and colorful lights in the background.
    A warthog walking past a safari booking sign at night in front of a safari shop with lights.
    Wide view of a sandy beach with gentle waves lapping at the shore under a partly cloudy sky.
    A group of small birds standing on a sandy beach near ocean waves.
    A group of small birds gathered on a sandy beach with waves in the background, some birds flying above while others are on the ground.
    A small crab partially burrowed in sandy beach sand.

    Before we left, we did a boat trip to look at the hippos. So many of them, big and small, awake, sleeping, playing, eating and quite a few crocs too.

    Close-up of a crocodile's head resting on a rocky surface, showing its textured skin and sharp teeth.
    A close-up of a crocodile with its mouth open, displaying its sharp teeth and textured skin, resting on a concrete surface.
    Crocodile basking on concrete surface with mouth open.
    Close-up of a crocodile with its mouth open, showing sharp teeth and textured skin.
    Close-up of a crocodile with its mouth open, displaying sharp teeth and textured skin.
    A heron standing among tall grasses by the water's edge, with a wooden log in the foreground.
    The world’s largest heron – Goliath Heron
    A heron standing among tall grass by the water, with a focus on its intricate feather patterns and vibrant colors.
    A colorful bird with a black and white head and orange chest perched on a tree branch among green leaves.
    The largest kingfisher in Africa – Giant Kingfisher
    A hippopotamus partially submerged in water, with its back and ears visible above the surface.
    Snouts and ears!
    A hippopotamus partially submerged in water, with only its head visible above the surface.
    A hippopotamus partially submerged in water, with its eyes closed and ears visible.
    A hippo partially submerged in water among tall grass, with its eyes and nose above the surface.
    This one was fast asleep
    A close-up view of a hippopotamus partially submerged in water, showing its eyes and ears above the surface.
    Close-up of a hippo partially submerged in water, showing its eyes and ears above the surface.
    Two hippos partially submerged in water, with only their eyes and ears visibly above the surface.
    A close-up of a hippopotamus partially submerged in water, showing its head and ears.
    A close-up of a hippopotamus grazing in tall grass, with a soft-focus background of greenery.
    Close-up of a hippopotamus's face, with its large mouth and prominent eyes, surrounded by green grass.
    A dramatic sky filled with varying cloud patterns and shades of blue, showcasing both light and dark clouds.

    And so we come to the end of a nature filled trip. The world is a beautiful place!

  • Where the Elephants Roam: Exploring Gonarezhou National Park

    Disclamer: many, many elephants…

    This is definitely one of my favourite parks and I have been to a few… The park forms part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area, bordering Mozambique and South Africa and stretching over 5,000 square kilometres in south-eastern Zimbabwe. Gonarezhou means “place of elephants” and you do see plenty of those as well as hippos, crocs, zebra, giraffe… This is a wild, untamed wilderness paradise. Rivers flow through the landscape, creating pools where elephants, antelope, and hundreds of birds gather. The Chilojo red sandstone cliffs overlook the valleys below, offering views that take your breath away. The sunrises, the sunsets, the rivers and the wildlife. Gonarezhou is a place that stays with you long after you leave and a place I want to go keep going back to.

    From Maputo, it is a 7 hourish trip to the Chicualacuala/Sango border. A quick stop in Chokwe for a bite to eat is included in this time. From Chokwe, it is a pretty straight, good condition road all the way to the border. The border is a small affair and both times we’ve been there, we have found it to be empty, literally! No people, no staff. You may need to wait for the immigration officer to arrive, then the customs officer, then the gate officer. No rush. Once you cross the border, you are almost inside the park. We opted to stay at Swimuwini for the night before making our way up to the north of the park.

    On the way, somewhere after Chokwe
    No electricity in Chicualacuala so no petrol pumps working. No worries, there is always someone with petrol!
    The ghost border….
    Swimuwini

    Next stop was Bhenji Weir, a wilderness campsite with a covered platform elevated above the water with sweeping views of the Bhenji Stream Valley and the main game trails to the spring although sadly, there was no water. The weather was incredibly hot, most days it got above 40 degrees, sometimes more. We were visited by a lone elephant, many impalas and kudos, and hyenas at night. A breathtaking and isolated spot.

    The tree house
    Go away bird

    From Bhenji Weir, we headed to Chipinda Pools campsite, a stunning spot right on the riverbank. The best part? You don’t even have to drive far, wildlife comes right to you! Sitting in our chairs, we watched elephants, nyala, impala, hippo, kudu, crocs, and countless birds, just like a private show.

    Nyala
    Blue Waxbill
    Beautiful bee-eaters
    So tired….
    Hornbill
    Various hippos wallowing
    Awake
    Asleep
    I just love these elegant saddle-billed storks! They are the largest species of stork in Africa, tall and graceful.
    Ready to spear the fish!
    Yellow billed stork hunting for fish
    Waterbuck
    Sunset with croc

    The three main rivers in Gonarezhou National Park are the Mwenezi (western border), the Runde (flowing through the centre) and the Save (forming the eastern boundary).  There are many river crossings of various difficulty, especially in the northern part of the park. Lots of fun to cross and explore.

    Kwangulatilo Rainbow Causeway, this one was built in 2019 to avoid a rocky river crossing
    Goliath heron, the largest heron in the world!

    We went back to the Chilojo Cliffs view point, a spectacular view, it’s like being on top of the world. Wasn’t expecting to see elephants so high up on the steep slopes of the cliffs! There were many elephant herds below but too small to see in the photos. Although the scenery is amazing, the photos really don’t capture its magnitude.

    I love the elephant trails…

    Around the base of the cliffs, you’ll find beautiful wild campsites and a handful of great picnic spots. The views from here are breathtaking. It’s one of those places where you truly feel the vastness and wild beauty of Gonarezhou. As always, elephants are everywhere, so majestic and impossible to miss. For me, spotting them so often never loses its magic.

    This guy was having so much fun in the water!
    Geoff looking very small

    Chipinda causeway crossing …. so beautiful.

    Chivilila Wilderness Camp and Gorge is breathtaking — wild, remote, and wonderfully untouched. The views are absolutely incredible, stretching across the rocky landscape. It would be an amazing place to camp if you’re after solitude and scenery, though with no shade, it’s definitely one to save for cooler weather!

    Kurrichane Thrush

    The Chivilila Falls viewpoint offers spectacular views of the waterfalls and rapids. Spotted a few elephants cooling off and splashing in the water below.

    Southern Black Flycatcher

    Chinguli Campsite is easily one of my favourite campsites. The setting is absolutely stunning, with sweeping views that change beautifully throughout the day with the sunrise and sunsets. It’s the kind of place where you can just sit and relax for days on end.

    Can’t beat this spot!
    Very dusty, running buffalos
    Never seen an elephant sleeping before, flat out!
    Lion by the campsite. We could hear them at night very close by
    Curious impala

    Tembwahata Pan, full of elephants coming to drink and bathe. The park was so hot and dry, the pans were teeming with animals and birds. We followed this herd as they walked towards the water and watched them play and drink for a while.

    Machaniwa Pan was absolutely incredible, alive with hundreds of birds and animals all around. The sounds, the movement, and the abundance of wildlife made it a magical spot! There is a campsite and a picnic spot near the pan, well worth staying here.

    Lilac breasted roller
    Lovely spot for a quick lunch by Chitove
    Road block
    Bopomela river crossing was a no go
    In dry season, the baobabs are targeted by elephants, which are desperate for nutrition (and moisture – as the baobab’s light and soft wood is made up mostly of water).
    The end!

  • Summer Adventures: From Maputo to Brighton

    Finally catching up to the summer photos! This is what happens when you procrastinate… Thousands of photos to trawl through and a feeling that life is passing by way too fast.

    Before we left, we did a sunset cruise in Maputo, beautiful skies and scenery. Then it was time to travel to the UK to see friends and family, and attend Mari’s graduation! Very exciting.

    A sunset view of a bridge over a shimmering body of water, with silhouettes of trees and distant structures in the background.
    Sunset view with a sailing boat on the water, featuring clouds and a bridge in the background.
    Fishing boat navigating through water with seagulls flying around.

    It’s always exciting to go back to Brighton and see friends. Being away from close connections can be tough, so these visits feel like a proper recharge, full of laughter, catching up, and simply enjoying being together.

    Brighton brings back so many memories of life with the kids. Streets are familiar and popping into old favourite spots remind me of all the little moments that made those years special. It’s a mix of nostalgia and joy, and some sadness but it is also a perfect reminder of why this place will always feel a little like home. When I am asked where I would go back to, I always think, Brighton!

    A couple standing on a pebbly beach, embracing while seagulls fly above them. In the background, a stone pier juts into the sea under a clear blue sky.
    A very windy day in Brighton!
    View of Brighton Pier against a blue sky with clouds, showcasing the iconic seaside structure and beach in the foreground.
    Never get tired of capturing the Pier from different angles, different skies…
    A weathered boat on a pebbly beach with clear blue skies and calm sea in the background.
    A vibrant mural of a green-skinned woman with intricate blue facial decorations and a butterfly, surrounded by lush ivy.
    Person sitting on a bench in front of a colorful geometric mural, wearing tie-dye pants and a green jacket, holding a drink.
    Walking the streets of Brighton and I see this guy! What a perfect blend of colours and a great way to meet new people.

    One of the best things about being in Brighton is how close it is to the South Downs. It still amazes me how quickly you can go from the noise and busyness of the city to wide open fields and endless views. Within a bus ride, you’re surrounded by green hills, fresh air, and that feeling of calm that only comes from being outside in nature. A walk with friends is all that is needed!

    Group selfie taken outdoors with lush greenery in the background and a large mushroom formation nearby.
    Three friends standing on a gravel path surrounded by grassy fields and trees, with a cloudy sky overhead.
    A couple smiling for a selfie in a scenic countryside setting with grazing cows and rolling hills in the background.
    A selfie of two friends in a gym, smiling and making silly expressions. One friend is flexing their bicep while the other is laughing. The background shows various gym equipment and people exercising.
    Really enjoyed going to the gym with Joshie, what privilege to be able to work out with my son!

    Mari graduated as a Vet Nurse and we were lucky to be able to attend the ceremony. Usually these things can be a little boring but the speeches were inspiring and it was moving to see so many young people wanting to dedicate their lives to animal welfare.

    Crowd gathered under a 'GRADUATION' banner at the Royal Veterinary College, with people dressed in formal attire
    A group of four people pose for a photo outside, with a fountain and buildings in the background. One person is wearing a graduation cap and gown.
    Street art featuring a black bird on a red shape against a white wall.
    London graffiti

    Jaysh and I have been friends since around 1991 — so long that I’ve honestly lost track of the exact year. We’ve grown up, grown older, and shared so many chapters of life together. There’s something really special about friendships that have lasted that long; they hold all the versions of who you’ve been over the years.

    Whenever we can, we try to take time out just for us, usually a night away somewhere new. This time, we went to Sissinghurst Castle Gardens in Cranbrook, Kent. It’s one of the most famous gardens in England, and it’s easy to see why. The gardens are stunning, incredible flowers and beautiful woodland walks. Walking and talking there felt like the perfect mix, a reminder of how special it is to have someone who’s known you for so long, and how time spent in nature calms the soul.

    Two women seated on a wooden bench in a garden, surrounded by vibrant purple flowers and green foliage.
    A rustic wooden door framed by a brick wall and green foliage, creating a charming and inviting entrance.
    Close-up of a vibrant flowering plant with orange and yellow spikes, surrounded by green foliage and other flowers in a garden setting.
    Close-up of a single purple poppy flower surrounded by green foliage.
    A group of sheep resting under a large tree with lush green leaves.
    A picturesque riverside view featuring a charming, thatched-roof gazebo surrounded by lush greenery and trees.
    View of Brighton beach with a calm sea, cloudy sky, and the pier in the distance.
    Hastings Pier at sunset
    A seagull perched on a window sill, looking towards the beach and the sea in Brighton, with beach sand and cars visible below.
    Seagull trying hard to get into my room!

    Time to head off to Lisbon for some family time. I can’t believe I always forget to take photos of family and friends and I leave wishing that I had! Every year I do this but when I go back this Xmas, I will make a point of capturing memories. I sense a lot of nostalgia writing this blog. Going back is exciting but also painful at times; a reminder of what I have left behind and the people I miss but an opportunity for new adventures and a life of constant change.

    A person standing inside a modern building, looking out through a large glass window that frames a view of lush green trees and pathway.
    Modern Art Museum, Gulbenkian in Lisbon
    An architectural view of a wooden structure with a curved roof, supported by slender black pillars, creating a dramatic overhang. The pathway beneath is lined with small stones and leads into a green surrounding area.
    View of modern architectural structure featuring wooden slats and metal supports against a clear blue sky.

    One thing I love about Lisbon is the amount of excellent graffiti around the city. There are some incredible artists. I love Bordalo II, his work consists mainly of large installations and murals made from recycled rubbish to highlight waste and over consumption in our world today. These are some new ones in Lisbon.

    A large mural of two storks painted on a building wall, showcasing vibrant colors and intricate details.
    Colorful street art mural featuring a stylized pig, geometric patterns, and playful cartoon characters on a wall.
    A large mural featuring a whimsical, anthropomorphic rodent with big eyes and a playful expression, surrounded by colorful graffiti on a city wall.

    Vhils is another amazing artist. He scratches, drills, and uses bleach to tear away at billboards and walls. His work is a “reflection on the fragility of human beings and their relationship with their surroundings. Through his work, he invites us to reflect on the social, political and environmental issues of our time.” The one below is a collaboration with Bordalo II. The Portuguese Embassy in Bangkok has a beautiful piece which is described as: “to help make visible the invisible history of Bangkok, in a tribute to the people of this neighbourhood, this city, this ancient wall and the historic ties between Thailand and Portugal, with graphic and figurative elements that highlight what we share in common and brings us closer as human beings.”

    A vibrant mural featuring a monkey's face alongside artistic representations of various textures and colors, showcasing street art in Lisbon.
    A large mural featuring a series of faces and abstract designs created by an artist, highlighting social and environmental themes.
    Portuguese Embassy, Bangkok
    A weathered metal gate with blue panels and a decorative design, partially obscured by blooming greenery and branches, set against a textured wall in Lisbon.
    Walk about in Lisbon
    A sunny plaza in Lisbon featuring a circular pond, surrounded by trees and colorful buildings, with people relaxing in the background.
    A reflective modern structure partially hidden among trees, mirroring the building beside it.
    Old Church reflected on a new building
    A woman in a black crop top and patterned leggings stands in front of a colorful graffiti mural featuring a stylized face with vibrant hair and fantasy elements.
    Mari blending in…
    Colorful graffiti artwork featuring a stylized yellow tram and vibrant abstract designs.
    Person standing against a pink wall adorned with greenery and flowers, wearing a blue patterned shirt and beige shorts.
    A vibrant piece of street art depicting a figure working on a structure, set against a backdrop of colorful graffiti on a wall partially covered by greenery.
    A charming building in Lisbon adorned with vibrant pink bougainvillea cascading over the entrance.
    Coastal view of a village with white buildings perched on a rocky cliff, overlooking a blue ocean and a sandy beach.
    Azenhas do Mar, close to Lisbon

    We spent a couple of days near Zambujeira do Mar in Alentejo with Jorge e Filomena, always so beautiful…

    A scenic view of a sandy beach with gentle waves lapping at the shore, surrounded by rocky cliffs and a clear blue sky.
    A panoramic view of a picturesque beach featuring golden sand, rocky formations, and clear blue waters under a partly cloudy sky. Several people are seen enjoying the beach.
    A small white chapel with a red-tiled roof, situated near the coastline under a clear blue sky.

    We met Joshie in Pinhão, in the Douro Valley. Although we have travelled to most places in Portugal, somehow we had not been to this area. It is absolutely stunning! We did a 10km walk from Pinhão to Casal de Loivos with the most scenic views. This area is know for its wine production, especially Port and for its stunning terraced vineyards and landscapes. It is recognised as one of the oldest demarcated wine regions in the world and parts of it are a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

    A person standing under a modern architectural structure with warm lighting, approached by nightfall.
    A person standing thoughtfully beside a tiled mural depicting scenic landscapes, with a building featuring green doors and decorative elements in the background.
    Pinhão train station. Apparently, it is one of the most beautiful in Portugal. Trains go along the Douro river all the way to Porto, well worth it.
    A train station platform in Portugal featuring a large wall clock and decorative blue and white tiles depicting scenic landscapes.
    A person practicing a martial art stance on a wooden railing by a riverbank, surrounded by green hills and buildings.
    Scenic view of a river with traditional wooden boats docked in the foreground, a bridge spanning across the river in the background, and terraced vineyards on the hillsides.
    A person peeking out from a window of an abandoned building, surrounded by overgrown vegetation and scenic hills in the background.
    A weathered wooden door with metal fittings, set into a white wall, under a blue sky with fluffy clouds.
    A scenic view of a white house nestled among olive trees on a hillside, overlooking a river.
    Scenic view of terraced vineyards and white buildings along the Douro River, with mountains in the background and boats docked in the foreground.
    Scenic view of the Douro Valley with lush green hills surrounding a calm river under a partly cloudy sky.
    A selfie of three people smiling in front of scenic terraced vineyards and a river, with a clear blue sky above.
    Up we go
    Scenic view of terraced vineyards and a river winding through the Douro Valley in Portugal, showcasing the lush green landscape under a bright blue sky.
    Two men posing back-to-back in a playful manner against a scenic backdrop of rolling hills and a river, with clear blue skies.
    The top is conquered!
    Two men playfully pose at a viewpoint overlooking a scenic landscape with hills and a river in the valley below, under a clear blue sky.
    Scenic view of terraced vineyards and the Douro River in Portugal, under a clear blue sky.
    Pinhão is all the way down there…
    Scenic view of terraced vineyards in the Douro Valley, Portugal, with rolling hills and a river running through the landscape under a clear blue sky.

    There are many viewpoints to explore with magnificent views.

    A person sitting on a swing overlooking a scenic landscape with rolling hills and a river in the valley below.
    Two people joyfully posing on a viewing platform overlooking a scenic valley and river in the Douro region of Portugal.
    A couple standing together on a balcony overlooking a scenic view of terraced vineyards and hills in the Douro Valley, Portugal.

    We stopped for lunch in Tomar. It used to be the former seat of the Order of the Knights Templar and the Convent of Christ has a fascinating history and architecture. It was originally a Templar stronghold in the 12th century, it later became a convent and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can see it on top of the hill in the photo.

    View of a picturesque town along a river with a small waterfall, featuring charming buildings and lush trees under a clear blue sky.
    A scenic view of a riverside town, featuring white and yellow buildings with tiled roofs, trees lining the riverbank, and a waterfall flowing over rocks in the foreground.
    A group of six people smiling together under a wooden structure, enjoying a sunny day outdoors.
    We end our trip with a visit to my niece and her family and her cute doggo! I did visit other lovely family members but sadly didn’t take photos… Next time.
    A playful dog lying on its back with its paws in the air, showing a happy expression and bared teeth.

  • South Africa’s Wild Beauty and Deep Inequality

    Time flies, and with it come more photos, more memories, more places that stay with me. South Africa is breathtaking – the wilderness, the landscapes, the animals, the light that feels different somehow in Africa. I love the beauty and rawness of it all.

    But it’s also impossible to ignore the contrasts. The history still lingers, and the gap between wealth and poverty remains. Knowing that youth unemployment is so high and that inequality runs so deep makes it hard to fully relax into the beauty.

    I’m always torn! Part of me wants to go back again and again, to be in that incredible landscape. And part of me feels heavy with the awareness of my own privilege. South Africa moves me every time though for its beauty.

    A rainbow arcs over an airport ramp, with an aircraft and a jet bridge visible in the foreground under a cloudy sky.
    A rainbow, or two, as we leave Maputo!
    Aerial view of rugged mountains with a valley and a lake in South Africa, showcasing the diverse landscapes.
    Somewhere over South Africa
    A scenic view of rocky coastline and houses along the shore, with mountains in the background under a cloudy sky.
    One of my favourite places in Cape Town, Camps Bay. Beautiful pool with view of the mountains and plenty of kelp.
    Sunset view of the Twelve Apostles mountain range with a beach and coastal houses in the foreground.
    A scenic view of a beach with people enjoying the sand and water, framed by rocky mountains and a residential area in the background under a cloudy sky.
    A smiling couple poses for a selfie at the seaside, with a rocky shore and a cloudy sky in the background.
    A scenic view of a beach in South Africa with a rocky coastline, calm water, and a backdrop of mountains under a cloudy sky.
    A view of a rocky coastline with the ocean and dramatic cloudy skies, where rays of sunlight break through the clouds, illuminating the sea.
    A serene coastal landscape in South Africa, featuring waves crashing against rocks, with sun rays breaking through clouds illuminating the ocean.
    Sunset over the ocean, casting warm hues across rocky formations along the shore.
    A coastal view in South Africa featuring rocky shoreline, gentle waves, and a backdrop of rugged mountains.
    Waves crashing against rocky shoreline under a clear blue sky.
    A rocky shoreline with a large stone in the foreground and a bird perched on top, overlooking gentle waves and distant rocks under a cloudy sky.
    A panoramic view of Cape Town, South Africa, showcasing the city skyline, harbor, and distant mountains under a clear blue sky with a few clouds.
    View from Table Mountain
    A panoramic view of a mountain landscape featuring a prominent peak with a clear blue sky, surrounded by green hills and scattered houses below.
    Lion’s Head, seen from Table Mountain
    A stunning sunset over the ocean, with the sun dipping below the horizon, casting warm colors in the sky and reflecting off the water, while a coastal town is visible in the foreground.
    Sunset view over the ocean with a vibrant orange glow and a coastal landscape in the foreground.
    An angel sunset from the top of Table Mountain
    A panoramic view from the top of a mountain, showcasing a coastal landscape with distant islands, a city below, and a clear sky.
    A wooden walkway leading towards a rocky cliff with the ocean in the background, illuminated by soft sunlight during sunset.
    A couple takes a selfie at a marina in South Africa, with Table Mountain in the background, showcasing a sunny day and various boats in the water.
    Waterfront, Cape Town
    A woman enjoying noodles at Ramenhead restaurant, with a menu displayed in the background and patrons seated at wooden tables.
    Time Out Market and my favourite ramen! Yum
    A scenic view of the ocean with rocky shores and green vegetation in the foreground, complemented by mountains rising in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
    Just more Cape Town views…
    A scenic view of a coastal town in South Africa, with lush greenery in the foreground, houses on the hillside, and dramatic mountain peaks partially covered by clouds under a clear blue sky.
    A scenic view of the coastline in South Africa, featuring rugged mountains and a blue ocean under a partly cloudy sky.
    A scenic view of the coastline in South Africa, featuring rocky shores, rolling waves, and dramatic mountains under a clear blue sky.
    A vibrant display of fresh, red peppers and other vegetables arranged in woven baskets at a market. The peppers are prominently featured in a large bowl, surrounded by smaller pots of greenery and other produce.
    Oranjezicht City Farm Market. Some great food stalls and lots of fresh bread, cheese, local produce
    A basket filled with vibrant red and green chilies, showcasing their glossy texture and fresh appearance.
    A vibrant assortment of fresh chili peppers in various colors, including red, yellow, and green, tightly packed together.
    A scenic view of a rocky coastline meeting the ocean, with waves crashing against the shore and sandy beach visible amid the rugged terrain.
    Cape of Good Hope. The most stunning views, hiking trails and ostriches!
    A breathtaking coastal view in South Africa, showcasing the ocean waves crashing against rocky cliffs and a distant mountain landscape under a clear blue sky.
    A couple smiles while posing next to the Cape of Good Hope sign, with the ocean and rocky coastline in the background under a clear blue sky.
    A group of ostriches walking through lush greenery near the coast with a blue ocean in the background.
    Cape of Good Hope
    A rocky cliff overlooking the ocean with waves crashing against the shore, showcasing the natural beauty of the coastline.
    A chalkboard sign at a store entrance reads 'OPEN - Closed due to Baboons,' with a drawing of a baboon's face.
    Simon’s Town where baboons cross the road
    A selfie of a man and a woman standing in shallow water with large rocks in the background on a sunny day.
    Boulder’s Beach to see the penguins, so cute!
    Scenic view of a rocky shoreline with clear blue waters and distant mountains in South Africa.
    A close-up of an African penguin standing on sandy ground, looking directly at the camera with a background of sparse vegetation.
    A penguin standing on a rock by the ocean, with a blurred background of water and other rocky formations.
    A black-footed penguin standing on a rocky surface with its head held high, basking in sunlight.
    A close-up view of a small brown mammal, called a hyrax, foraging on sandy ground beneath trees with dappled sunlight.
    Rock Hyrax
    A panoramic view of a South African landscape featuring rolling hills, vineyards, and small clusters of white buildings under a clear blue sky.
    Views over Franschhoek wine region
    A scenic landscape of mountains and valleys under a cloudy sky in South Africa, showcasing the raw beauty and contrasting features of the region.
    A scenic view of mountains shrouded in clouds, with green trees and blue flowers in the foreground against a clear blue sky.
    A panoramic view of mountains under a partly cloudy sky in South Africa, showcasing the rugged landscape and a hint of a road in the foreground.
    A person standing on a hilltop, looking out over a vast landscape of fields and mountains in South Africa, with a sense of contemplation.
    A sculpture of two monkeys on a seesaw in front of a white building, with a shopping cart nearby.
    Stellenbosch
    A woman in a blue dress stands in front of a giraffe surrounded by trees and greenery in South Africa.
    Marloth Park, outside our cottage
    A group of vibrant blue birds perched on a bush near a river, surrounded by soft greenery and a rocky riverbank.
    Kruger Park
    A rear view of an elephant walking on a dirt path surrounded by greenery.
    Road block!
    A close-up view of an elephant standing among greenery, showcasing its textured skin and large ears, with another elephant partially visible in the background.
    Three turtles on a sandy riverbank, with one turtle in the foreground and two in the background entering the water.
    A turtle moving across a dirt pathway, showcasing its greenish shell and distinctive features.
    An elephant stands amidst dense greenery in South Africa, showcasing its majestic presence in a natural setting.
    A turtle with a glossy green shell moving on a sandy surface.
    A water buffalo resting on the sandy ground, with patches of mud on its body, surrounded by sparse greenery.
    A resting buffalo covered in mud, with a small bird perched on its back, set against a sandy landscape with tall grass in the background.
    Three giraffes standing near a dirt road in South Africa, with trees and bushes in the background. Two cars are parked nearby.
    Road block!
    A scenic view of a river winding through a dry landscape in South Africa, surrounded by sparse vegetation and trees under a clear blue sky.
    A group of hippopotamuses walking along the riverbank in South Africa, with some grazing on the grass and others standing at the water's edge.
    A solitary elephant standing in a grassy area surrounded by rocky terrain.
    A group of four turtles moving across a sandy surface in South Africa.
    A group of hippopotamuses grazing on the riverbank, with a crocodile resting in the water nearby.

  • Life in Mozambique: Challenges and Beauty

    It’s been a while since I last wrote! After our road trip, I took a break from writing, though I’ve kept capturing life through photos. The past few months have had their challenges – adapting to life in Mozambique hasn’t always been easy. On the surface, life looks comfortable: a nice home, a steady job, and all the modern conveniences. But emotionally, it’s been a journey.

    I still miss Thailand, its beauty, the ease of daily life, and the attention to detail. Even in my second year here, that sense of loss lingers. Mozambique has its own beauty, though, and I’m slowly learning to notice it: the wide skies, the vibrant communities, and the unexpected beauty of nature.

    The political unrest since the October 2024 elections has made inequalities feel very real, and witnessing protests and unrest can be unsettling. Yet, even in the midst of uncertainty, I’m learning to find grounding in small moments: a peaceful walk, a shared meal with friends, or the quiet joy of photography. Life here is not without challenges, but it also continues to offer moments of connection, wonder, and growth.

    A man wearing a black garbage bag as clothing stands on a street, holding a sign that reads 'VIVA, SALVE MOÇAMBIQUE POVO NO PODER JOSÉS'. The background features a wall and palm trees.
    A scene of unrest in a city street with visible military presence, smoke in the air, and parked cars along the road. Billboards advertising vehicles and local businesses can be seen in the background.
    Protesters holding a sign reading 'Até Quando a Ditadura Numa Nação Democrática' in front of smoke and fire.
    Protesters holding signs in a demonstration, expressing messages about their country and government issues.
    A large crowd with raised hands gathered around a speaker standing on a vehicle, surrounded by buildings and trees.
    Two individuals standing together, watching a large Mozambique flag being waved, with the text 'PELA PAZE DEMOCRACIA' prominently displayed.
    A man holding a flag stands in front of a building during a protest, with the words 'Pela Paz' and 'Democracia' superimposed.

    In the midst of all this, we have found some oases of calm and tranquility and built connections with people around us. Not many but some good ones and it is quality that matters, isn’t it?

    In June/July, we met with family and friends in Lisbon, Brighton and Barcelona to recharge our batteries.

    A view looking down a spiral staircase with stone steps and a railing, featuring two pairs of feet at the edge.
    Group of five people posing in a themed escape room called Vault 27, with props and a dramatic backdrop.
    Our usual family escape room, this time in Barcelona
    A close-up photo of two people smiling together in a park setting. They appear to be enjoying a sunny day, surrounded by greenery and trees.
    Three young adults sitting on a park bench, posing playfully with palm trees and greenery in the background.
    A couple stands together on a viewing platform with a scenic mountain backdrop in bright daylight.
    Four friends posing confidently in front of a historic building and rocky mountains on a sunny day.
    Group of four people posing playfully in a narrow street with stone walls and arched entrance, showcasing a mix of casual clothing and smiling expressions.
    A person standing confidently in front of a graffiti-covered wooden wall, wearing a patterned shirt and shorts.
    A textured wall featuring street art, a graphic depiction of a woman with raised arms, various colorful stickers, and a keyboard mounted above.
    Two individuals sitting and standing by a large tree in a park setting. One person is standing on a thick tree root while the other is seated below, both appear relaxed and enjoying the outdoors.
    A group of people gathered around a colorful table in a restaurant, smiling and enjoying drinks together.

    On our arrival back in Mozambique, we were reunited with our friends from Bangkok! So lovely to see old friends and to have them close by.

    A person standing in front of a colorful mural featuring abstract shapes and a portrait of a man.
    A vibrant mural featuring abstract shapes, figures, and colorful patterns, depicting various human expressions and cultural symbols.
    Two women smiling in front of a colorful mural with abstract shapes and figures.
    Two men enjoying a light-hearted moment at a cafe, surrounded by lush greenery and vibrant decor.

    Time flies and we continue with our explorations of the area. Here are some random photos of various places.

    A warning sign cautioning about the dangers of hippos and crocodiles, featuring images of a hippo and a crocodile. The sign is placed near a water body and has a lamp on top.
    Pongola River, South Africa
    Close-up of a black spider resting in its web, located in a corner of a wooden structure.
    A group of people wading through a river, with trees and a dirt path in the background, during sunset.
    Swimming or rather laying flat on a very shallow bit of the Pongola river in South Africa
    A truck loaded with various items such as furniture and bicycles driving on a road under a clear blue sky.
    No large truck, no problem!
    A young boy wearing a yellow sleeveless shirt and shorts stands on a sandy shore, smiling and holding a fishing spear, with a clear blue lake in the background.
    Fishing kids in Quissico lake in Mozambique
    Two boys wearing snorkel masks and casual clothes holding a fishing net along a sandy shore with a blue ocean in the background.
    A person stands by a calm body of water, pointing towards the horizon with green grass and tall reeds in the foreground, and distant hills under a clear blue sky.
    A dog with a happy expression sitting in the back of a truck, enjoying the sunny weather.
    A person standing next to a white SUV on a sandy beach with a view of the ocean and blue sky.
    The only way to go to the beach is to drive on it….
    A tranquil ocean scene with gentle waves and a sailboat gliding on the water under a clear blue sky.
    A tranquil beach scene in Mozambique with gentle waves lapping at the shore, featuring a fisherman in a small boat and two people walking along the sandy coastline.
    A coastal view showing a sandy beach and calm waters, framed by greenery and a weathered tree, set against a bright sky.
    Praia do Farol, Mozambique
    A person sitting at a counter with a mural of various fish painted on the wall in an abandoned building.
    Abandoned bar, Praia do Farol
    A colorful mural depicting a woman carrying a large basket on her head, painted on a weathered wall in an abandoned building.
    A colorful mural depicting a woman balancing a basket of fruit on her head, wearing a bright top and patterned skirt, set against a textured wall.
    Signpost welcoming visitors to Tofo Beach and Tofinho Beach, listing distances and guidelines for attire, along with information about cocktails and live music at a restaurant.
    A rural scene in Mozambique featuring a dirt road lined with palm trees. A group of people is seated in the back of a vehicle, while a person wearing a blue shirt walks alongside the road.
    A woman and a man stand together smiling in a heart-shaped frame made of wood, with a beach and palm trees in the background.

    I attended a conference in Cape Town so took one evening to go up Table Mountain. The sunset was beautiful and it was quiet, very different from the last time I went up with hoards of people!

    A panoramic view of Table Mountain and Cape Town, with the ocean visible in the background, captured from a high vantage point.
    A picturesque sunset over the ocean, with soft pastel colors reflecting on the water's surface and rocky terrain in the foreground.
    A panoramic view of the coastline and ocean from the top of Table Mountain, showcasing a colorful sunset and a cloudy sky.
    A panoramic view from Table Mountain during sunset, showcasing the coastline and clouds over the ocean.
    A serene sunset view over the ocean with soft clouds and a gradient of colors in the sky.
    A woman with brown hair, wearing a colorful floral top and a blue wrap, smiles while standing on Table Mountain with a scenic ocean view and sunset in the background.
    Two women wearing matching green floral dresses pose for a photo indoors, in a modern building with escalators in the background.
    When you find someone wearing the same dress!!

    Maputo Park is very close to Maputo but somehow we hadn’t made it there. We spent a weekend camping by the lake and exploring. It is a beautiful park by a very nice beach, all pretty empty and quiet. There are a few animals, not loads but we managed to see a few here and there. Lots of giraffes and elephants!

    A caution sign in Portuguese and English warning about the priority of dung beetles on a dirt road, surrounded by green grass and trees under a cloudy sky.
    A beetle carrying a ball of dung on sandy terrain.
    A close-up image of two beetles, known as dung beetles, working together to roll a small ball of dung on a sandy surface.
    Dung beetles fighting over dung
    A sign prohibiting swimming, placed in a grassy area by a body of water under a cloudy sky.
    I guess swimming here is only for fools…
    A person walking along a wooden boardwalk beside a beach with gentle waves and green hills in the background.
    A serene landscape featuring a body of water surrounded by lush greenery and tall grasses, with trees in the background under a clear blue sky.
    Two waterbuck standing on a grassy area near trees.
    A field of tall grass with several round nests hanging from the grass, likely from weaver birds.
    Weaver birds nests on the reeds
    A white bird standing on a small mound in a marshy area, with tall grasses and water in the background.
    A yellow-billed stork walking through shallow water with reeds in the background.
    A tall giraffe standing in a grassy landscape with a lush forest in the background.
    Close-up of a giraffe's head and neck against a cloudy sky.

    Another beautiful place very close to Maputo is Inhaca island and Santa Maria. Santa Maria is part of the mainland of Mozambique, but from Maputo is easier to go by boat than drive so we decided to drive! It’s at the end of a peninsula in the Maputo national park. To drive its one and a half hours on a good road as far as the park entrance, then four or more hours on at times, very sandy roads through the national park. It’s somewhere we had been meaning to go for a long time, but never got around to. So off we went to see what the fuss was all about. It is a beautiful place with amazing snorkelling, we saw hundreds of fish and turtles. The water is crystal clear and warm. On the other side of the peninsula is a very wild beach with big waves and no people, we didn’t venture into the water there.

    A colorful lizard resting on a log surrounded by green foliage and purple leaves.
    The most beautiful lizards!
    A close-up image of two colorful lizards resting on a wooden log, surrounded by green vegetation.
    A colorful lizard with blue, green, and yellow hues resting on textured wood surrounded by green foliage.
    A slender green snake resting on wooden planks.
    Little green snake just popped up through the boards as we were having a drink
    A tranquil beach scene in Mozambique, featuring soft sand, calm waters reflecting sunlight, and a distant boat on the horizon.
    A white SUV parked on a sandy beach with lush green vegetation in the background under a clear blue sky.
    A couple standing on a sandy beach with waves in the background, both wearing sunglasses and smiling at the camera.
    The beach is all ours!
    View of a beach with rocky shorelines and two shipwrecks partially submerged in the water, under a clear blue sky.
    A tranquil beach scene with a small boat on the sand, surrounded by clear blue water and a bright blue sky.
    A beach scene featuring two wooden lounge chairs under a large umbrella, set on a shallow shoreline with clear water and green foliage in the background.
    A tranquil beach scene at sunset, featuring soft sand and calm waters with a boat anchored near the shore.
    A beautiful sunset over a calm body of water, with a silhouette of trees and distant land in the background.
    A tree on a sandy beach adorned with handmade crafts and decorations, including wooden fish and colorful bags, creating a vibrant scene in a coastal setting.
    Colorful welcome sign at Praia do Santa Maria in Mozambique, featuring various directional arrows to local attractions and lodges against a backdrop of greenery and blue skies.

    Yay, it is Xmas and we have visitors. With all the protests intensifying, Mozambique has been devoid of tourists, not that there were many in the first place. The financial impact of the protests and of the pull out of USAID is becoming more evident in the country and we fear that there may be more to come. However, this was a time to celebrate being together and even though the protests intensified and we ended up leaving the country, we had a good time together and enjoyed Xmas.

    A person wearing a festive hat with antlers and green glasses decorated for Christmas, smiling, with a 'Yippee!' text overlay.

    We went to Ponta for a couple of nights and had an amazing seafood feast!

    A group of five people enjoying a meal at a seaside restaurant with ocean waves visible in the background.
    A group of four people gathered around a table filled with a large seafood feast, including grilled shrimp and fried foods, in a restaurant setting.
    A large seafood platter featuring a variety of grilled shrimp, fish, calamari, and fries served on a banana leaf, with lemon and lime slices for garnish.
    A close-up selfie of two people posing together, one with dark hair and the other with short, light-colored hair, both expressing thoughtful expressions.

    Followed by the usual visitor’s trip to Kruger where we saw plenty of animals!

    Four zebras with distinctive black and white stripes are lined up next to each other, reaching towards a feeding area. Trees and outdoor furniture are visible in the background.
    Hungry zebras
    A kudu antelope standing in a wooded area, surrounded by trees and rocks.
    A person looking through binoculars while another person poses playfully in a scenic outdoor setting with greenery and a river in the background.
    A man and a woman standing back to back on a scenic overlook, with a river and lush greenery in the background under a cloudy sky.
    A close-up image of a warthog resting near a tree in a natural setting, with a sandy ground and some greenery in the background.
    I just love the warthogs!
    A zebra and a group of wildebeest gathered near a swimming pool surrounded by lounge chairs in a lush garden setting.
    Close-up of a zebra standing near a path, with its distinctive black and white stripes visible. The background shows a green, leafy environment.
    Zebra at the front door
    A woman hanging laundry on a clothesline with two zebras visible in the background among trees.
    Not everyday you get to hang the washing with zebras watching you
    A woman standing at the entrance of a house while zebras gather outside on a sunny day.
    We had an invasion….

    Due to the protests in Mozambique, we decided to take Marianne to Johannesburgh airport instead. We spent some days in Pretoria doing city stuff and met up with Paula and Manny from Phuket. Such an amazing surprise!!

    A serene garden scene featuring a stone sculpture of a head surrounded by lush greenery, flowing water, and rocks.
    Pretoria Botanical Gardens
    Colorful sculptures resembling heads in a green park setting with trees and blue sky.
    Two women smiling and standing together outdoors, with a green landscape and a blue sky in the background.
    Group photo of seven people posing together, with playful expressions and holding signs that read 'CX Mozzies 5315' and 'CX Mozzies 46-11', against a backdrop featuring a colorful brain illustration.
    Our habitual family holiday escape room, not bad!
    A playful photo of four people posing behind a zebra-themed cutout at a leisure area, with a bright and sunny background.
    At Alzu petroport service station where they have a safari viewing area, on the way to Pretoria on the N4

    Nowhere in the world can you sit and enjoy a coffee or a delicious sausage while you watch buffalo and rhino walking mere feet away from you. The Alzu Petroport station also has eland, blesbok, ostriches, and emus to name a few. Rhinos, however, are the highlight of every visit to the petroport! We stopped there 4 times and it is so incredible to stop for a coffee and watch animals walking around. Unreal.

    A variety of animals in a natural setting, including zebras, antelopes, and dogs, interacting in a grassy area.
    A rhinoceros drinking water from a small lake in a dry landscape.
    A herd of buffalo drinking water at a watering hole, with several other antelope species in the background.

    After Marianne left, we went back to Eswatini and walked around Sibebe rock, a massive granite dome and the world’s second-largest monolith. It is a three-billion-year-old volcanic slab with a height of 1,488 metres over around 16, 500 hectares. The views are stunning, mountains as far as the eye can see.

    A large, sloping granite dome under a clear blue sky, showcasing a rocky surface with patches of green vegetation at its base.
    A person walking through a grassy field with several animals grazing in the background, surrounded by rocky hills under a partly cloudy sky.
    A person in a blue shirt is playfully leaning against a large rock formation surrounded by grass and trees under a partly cloudy sky.
    Joshua has grown stronger since we last saw him
    A panoramic view of a lush green landscape with rolling hills, rocky formations, and a bright blue sky dotted with clouds.
    A smiling couple taking a selfie in a scenic outdoor setting, with rocky hills and a green landscape in the background.
    Three people sitting under a rock outcrop, enjoying a scenic view of a green landscape with rolling hills in the background.
    A bit sweaty!
    A wide landscape view of rolling green hills and rocky outcrops under a partly cloudy blue sky.
    A panoramic view of rolling hills and valleys, with rocky terrain and patches of greenery under a partly cloudy sky.
    Four people posing under large rocks in a natural setting, with two wearing blue shirts and others in casual clothing.
    A group of four people posing for a selfie outdoors, with green hills and a blue sky filled with clouds in the background.
    Two hikers navigating a grassy hillside surrounded by rocks and trees, set in a lush green landscape.
    Two friends playfully posing with a large orange traffic cone outside a shopping area. One friend strikes a humorous pose, while the other points at the cone.
    Can’t take them anywhere…. In South Africa, they have giant cones!
    A panoramic view of a lush green hillside with a rocky cliff in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
    A serene landscape featuring a rocky shoreline and a calm body of water surrounded by lush greenery and clouds in a blue sky.

    And so we come to the end of this chapter. It has been an interesting few months, unsettling and at times scary and anxiety provoking. It is unclear what is to come but more social and financial hardship is on the horizon for one of the poorest countries in the world, ranked 181 out of 189 countries on the Human Development Index. The political unrest continues to bubble in the background and with Trump intent on destroying the fabric of society, there is another level of uncertainty added to the mix. Until next time with the hope of better news.

  • Exploring Zimbabwe: From Victoria Falls to Gonarezhou

    Having heard horror stories about crossing the border into Zimbabwe, I was a little apprehensive but it all went smoothly and quickly. We were finally on our way to Victoria Falls. I never really thought much about going to Vic Falls and I was shocked to pay $50 to enter into the “park” but I guess it was pretty impressive. I am more partial to its African name though – Mosi-oa-Tunya, or “The Smoke that Thunders.” I didn’t take this photo but it gives a good idea of its magnificence.

    It is a beautiful walk along the path where you can view the different falls. The mass of water is just overwhelming and the roaring sound is all you can hear. In parts, you get soaked and there are beautiful, huge rainbows as you walk. I forgot to say that Geoff had his birthday in Vic Fall and that this is his second birthday there. He was here for his 17th too!

    A view of Victoria Falls, showcasing a rainbow over the thundering water, surrounded by lush greenery and rock formations.
    Bridge to Zambia
    A scenic view of the Zambezi River flowing through a gorge, surrounded by rocky cliffs and greenery, silhouetted by the golden hues of sunset.
    A smiling woman with curly hair and a blue patterned shirt stands outdoors surrounded by green foliage and warm sunlight.
    A close-up view of Victoria Falls, showcasing the cascading waterfalls and the lush green vegetation surrounding them.
    Blood moon
    A panoramic view of Victoria Falls, showcasing the stunning waterfalls cascading over rocky cliffs surrounded by lush greenery under a clear blue sky.

    This was sadly the time we had to say goodbye to Dave and Jackie! They made their way back to Maputo and home and we continued through Zimbabwe. Our next stop was Kariba where we took the ferry across Lake Kariba on our way to Mana Pools. There was an option to drive 3 days on awful roads or take the ferry for 25 hours. I’m glad we took the ferry, it was beautiful and relaxing. It is a smallish boat and there were only 8 of us. They stop at some point where it is deep and you can jump in. Being hot water babes, we decided to watch as they shivered. The crossing was perfect . The lake was calm and serene, no wind, no waves, very peaceful with beautiful views. We had a sunset and a sunrise and very good food. Sleeping was either inside or on deck. We opted to sleep out, went to sleep looking at the stars and listening to the water and woke up to a beautiful sunrise. Highly recommend crossing the lake by ferry!

    On the way….

    The road from Vic Falls to Mlibizi starts off well but it soon descends into a horror show! A tarmac road, covered in potholes and broken tarmac, absolutely exhausting. On the way, the came across a broken down car and stopped to help. Two guys from Harare on the way to an NGO meeting. Sadly, we weren’t able to fix the car but left them with water and a promise to get them help which we did. We exchanged emails and received the loveliest message thanking us for stopping to help. We often hear how we need to be careful and not to stop, but we have always done so and have had amazing experiences when we have helped others. Lovely connections….

    Before catching the ferry, we stayed the night in a local place, Mlibizi Zambezi Resort. Very nice and comfortable, we had a huge 3 bed chalet all to ourselves with views of the lake. The place is run down and the pool had seen better days and we found this review in our chalet comments book. We only saw crocs in the lake, not in the resort but we did find these scorpions in our bedroom. Geoff found out that they were highly venomous and it was pure luck we didn’t step on them. We think they were Mozambique Thicktail Scorpions (Parabuthus mossambicensis), let us know if you know better. The venom is considered dangerous, and stings should be treated in hospital – wouldn’t have been great….

    A handwritten journal entry describing a stay with notes on room conditions, including fans needing upgrades and pools requiring cleaning, along with a mention of finding a crocodile and two scorpions.
    Serene view of a river during sunset with boats docked along the shore, surrounded by rocky terrain and lush vegetation in the distance.

    Getting into the ferry has to be done backwards, a bit of a challenge…

    A car driving onto a ferry at a river dock. The ferry is partially loaded with passengers and has a calm body of water behind it.

    There is nothing much around so the ferry departing is an event. We had a small entourage seeing us off.

    Plenty of crocs and hippos!
    Chilling, waiting to depart

    The MV Sealion was built by Zambezi Coachworks in 1973 to be used as a cargo carrying vessel operating the lake shores of Kariba. It was then acquired by the Reg Harris group of companies in 1974 and transformed into a passenger and car ferry. It is 107ft long making it the 3rd largest vessel on the Kariba waters, and the only passenger/car ferry in operation on the lake. Given that it can carry up to 65 passengers, and 15 vehicles, we were lucky there were only 3 cars and 8 people.  

    Lots of fishing boats passed us by…

    Birds at sunset
    Waking up to a warm sunrise
    Kariba arrival
    A serene view of a river with several boats moored along the shore, surrounded by lush vegetation and distant hills.

    We stopped by to look at the dam which is HUGE! There is a small office where you can look at old photos and learn more about the history of the lake and the dam with a very informative guide – donations are expected. We learned that the dam wall is 128 metres high and 617 metres long. It has 6 flood gates and was built between 1955 and 1959. Lake Kariba is the 4th largest man-made lake in the world and the 2nd largest in Africa. Its construction displaced people and animals and the local people believed that the dam’s construction would anger the Zambezi River god, Nyaminyami. They believed that Nyaminyami would break down the bridge and cause catastrophic floods. To this day, it is believed that Nyaminyami lives under a rock close to the Lake Kariba dam wall. The rock has been named “Kariwa“, which means to trap. The locals have warned that canoeing past this location can be fatal. This is where the name Kariba comes from.

    From Kariba, we made our way to Mana Pools. Everyone we spoke to told us how wonderful it is so we were excited to get there. The camp is beautiful along the river, full of hippos and crocs. I thought as the bank was quite high that the hippos wouldn’t come up but I was wrong. We saw a couple of hippos walking by our tent two days in a row. Elephants and various types of bucks also visited camp as well as plenty of monkeys and baboons. The monkeys and baboons are usually trying to loot for food and as soon as we took our eyes off anything, they were fast. We lost 2 cartoons of milk and an almost empty packet of rusks. It made for good photos as they were hanging around, posing. The hyenas like to come to camp and at night they run around making lots of noise. Surprisingly, I slept through it all…

    Sunset over a river, with silhouettes of trees and a calm water surface reflecting the orange light.
    Sunset at camp
    A serene sunset view over a calm river, with warm orange and pink hues reflecting on the water's surface and a silhouette of trees along the bank.
    Waterbuck
    A vervet monkey sitting on a green table next to cooking utensils and a water container.
    Raiding our kitchen!
    Close-up of a baboon sitting and looking thoughtfully towards the camera with a soft blurred background.
    A baboon sitting on a rocky surface against a clear blue sky.

    Mana Pools is a beautiful park with the mighty Zambezi river running through, the one we had just seen at Vic Falls. Although it was the dry season, there were some pools where animals come to drink. Long pool was teeming with crocs, everywhere you looked there were crocs and more crocs, and hundreds of birds. Stunning scenery and sounds all around. A place where you could just sit, watch and be content.

    African Openbill
    Purple heron
    Yellow billed stork
    Egret?
    A white egret flying over a calm body of water, reflecting autumn colors in the background.
    African sacred Ibis
    Two birds wading in calm water beside a tree, with reflections in the water creating a serene atmosphere.
    A white stork standing at the water's edge, gazing at the calm water surface in a serene setting.

    The day after my birthday, we went on a walking safari. We left at sunrise which made for a beautiful walk and the light was soft and warm. Just the 2 of us with a guide who took us on a military style walk! He was a man of few words and wasn’t really into stopping much. We did manage to make some quick stops to snap some shots and stopped for a bit at Long Pool to look at the hippos. We saw elephants, warthogs and loads of different bucks. At the pool there were many hippos and birds, didn’t see any crocs…

    A woman walks along a dusty path in a wildlife area, accompanied by a guide holding a rifle, with trees in the background.
    Hippo soup
    A large group of hippos submerged in a shimmering body of water, with some partially visible above the surface, creating a serene and natural scene.
    A hippopotamus partially submerged in a river, with sunlight reflecting off its wet skin.
    A large group of hippos swimming together in a calm body of water, some with their heads above the surface, showcasing their social behavior.
    Very curious, watching us…
    Elephant print in the dry mud
    Warthog
    Two antelopes standing in a dry landscape, surrounded by sparse vegetation and trees in the background.
    Eland

    It is difficult to find a signal so we made our way to the camping office where you can access their wifi. The usual monkeys were lurking about and I had been told the elephants like to pass here to eat the pods from the tree that the monkeys drop on the ground. As we were looking at maps and routes, we heard the call “elephant”. There was one and then 2 more. They came pretty close and at one point I tried to take a photo of Geoff on the bench but as he saw the elephant, he made a run for it! I am always amazed by these giants. They are so quiet and so gentle. you can’t hear them coming at all and they step around the smallest things with such grace.

    A man sitting on a bench reading a map, with two elephants nearby in a sandy area under trees.
    I did asked him to wait for the photo!
    So close, could have touched it!
    An elephant standing in a sandy area, with its trunk extended towards the viewers, surrounded by trees and foliage in the background.

    We’d heard about the elephants at Mana Pool and how some of them have learned to go up on their hind legs to reach the acacia tree leaves. Boswell is the park’s most famous elephant and he is huge! He is known for his ability to stand on his hind legs and break branches out of reach of most other elephants. Others have learned from him and have mastered how to do this. We were lucky to see 3 elephants do this. It is quite impressive to see such a huge animal go up on their hind legs and fall back down again! Even if they don’t go up all the way, some are very stretchy, like a yoga pose.

    An elephant stretching its trunk to reach leaves on a tree, with a small antelope nearby among the dry ground and scattered trees.
    An elephant reaching up to a branch in a forested area, surrounded by trees.
    An elephant stretching its trunk upwards while standing under a tree.

    There are a few pools in the park but Long Pool and Chisasiko Pool were the best ones. Chisasiko had a lot of hippo, elephant, vervet monkeys and baboon activity and this is where we left the car for our walking safari. On the way back, we took time to watch activity at this pool. A lone elephant enjoyed drinking and the monkeys were scurrying about looking for food.

    A pair of kudu antelopes in a dry, open landscape, one standing on a mound while the other grazes nearby.
    Eland
    A group of hippos resting in a shallow, green marshy area, partially submerged with only their backs visible.
    Two impalas grazing on the riverbank while two hippopotamuses are resting partially submerged in the water, surrounded by aquatic plants.
    How to surf a hippo

    It is not always easy to spot lions and sometimes we don’t see any at all. We were lucky to find this lone female chilling in the shade. She is normally part of a pack but somehow we didn’t find the others. She kind of looked sad… We watched her for ages and she eventually moved and settled in for her afternoon nap.

    There are so many beautiful areas in the park. The mighty Zambezi provides stunning views with a backdrop of mountains. This is at Old Ndungu camp, a wild campsite without facilities with sweeping views of the river and mountains.

    A close-up view of an elephant standing in a forested area, with trees in the background.
    A solitary elephant walking through a dusty landscape, surrounded by trees and fallen branches.
    An elephant walking among large trees in a dry landscape, with a soft focus background.
    A majestic elephant standing on a riverbank, surrounded by lush vegetation.

    Boswell came to visit us at camp and I took the opportunity to go and watch with his entourage. Geoff stayed behind, I think he had enough of elephants by now! Boswell would pull the branches down and the other 3 would try to get some food off him. He wasn’t too happy about it and it was fun watching their interaction. I was pretty close to them and one decided to explore and come towards me. It was too late to drive away so I sat and watched as he looked inside a car and around some tents and then promptly walked towards my car.

    Some people were camping nearby and the elephant explored their car first and then moved towards my car. They took a photo and I can’t believe how massive this beast is, and he was one of the smaller ones!

    An elephant approaches a parked vehicle near a river, showcasing the wildlife experience in Zimbabwe.
    Me, inside pretending I am not inside at all! Took this video as he explored the car. I think I was more excited than scared. He was so gentle, just tapping with his trunk all the way around….

    From Mana Pools we made our way all the way down the country to Gonarezhou National Park. We stopped in Chinhoyi in a lovely BnB called Zebras Dazzle and at Antelope Park in Gweru. Zebras Dazzle was a lovely stop and I would recommend this as a stopover. Not sure I would recommend Antelope Park as I am not sure how kosher they really are. They are part of the African Lion and Environmental Research Trust (ALERT) and are supposedly meant to be releasing lions into the wild. However, for the past few years, their release programme has not released many at all. They recently stopped their lion walks after controversy. We were asked if we wanted to pay $20 to pet a lion cub. When I questioned this and the fact that the lion would never be able to be released into the wild, they fobbed me off with some nonsense. I tried to speak to someone in the lion programme but wasn’t able to. We decided not to stay an extra night there as felt very uncomfortable. If you are ever that way, I wouldn’t recommend this place although their website makes it sound amazing.

    A rural road in Zimbabwe with tire remnants and a small thatched structure on the side, surrounded by sparse vegetation and hills in the background.
    On the way to Gonarezhou
    A serene landscape featuring a calm pond surrounded by greenery and trees reflecting in the water under a clear sky.

    We finally made it to our final destination – Gonarezhou. Wow, what a stunning park! Gonarezhou, named “The Place of Elephants“, is Zimbabwe’s second-largest National Park and one of its most famed wilderness areas hence there are many photos of elephants in this blog!! The Save, Runde and Mwenezi rivers flow through the park attracting animals and birds to the water. We stayed at Chipinda pools the first night, by the river. Beautiful spot with plenty of hippos, elephants and springbok.

    Early morning visitors – Nyala, very curious and not scared of us

    We moved on to Chinguli camp. A beautiful spot, pretty isolated and quiet by the river. The camp itself is small and very private so no danger of feeling crowded or being surrounded by people. I was worried that being so rocky we wouldn’t get animals walking around but I was wrong! Hippos, crocs and elephants were aplenty as well as the cries of leopards in the night. To get to the campsite, you need to cross the river, where you can see more animals coming to the water to drink. There were quite a few river crossings in the park and there is information on which are safe to cross.

    A white SUV crossing a rocky riverbed with dry land and sparse vegetation in the background.
    Sunrise
    A solitary elephant walking along rocky terrain near a river, with its reflection visible in the water.
    A regular visitor

    The most well known and prominent feature of the Park is the Chilojo Cliffs, sandstone cliffs towering 180 meters high and running for some 20 kilometers along the south bank of the Runde River. Very impressive and beautiful in the sunlight.

    Coffee time
    A panoramic view of Chilojo Cliffs, sandstone cliffs rising impressively above a riverbank in Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe. The landscape features warm earthy tones and sparse greenery, under a clear blue sky.

    At one of the viewpoints at the top of the cliffs. It is like being on top of the world. Stunning views as far as the eye can see. The hills are dotted with huge baobab trees and the isolation and silence is breathtaking. Once you are there, you don’t want to leave…

    Huge drop!

    Here are some birds…

    Bee-eater
    A colorful bird perched on a branch above a body of water.
    Deciding where to cross

    As you drive around the park, the scenery changes completely. You can be in a forest, or in a desert, crossing a river… We saw large herds of animals, many giraffes and large elephant families with elephants of all ages. The animals are skittish as they are not so used to people but there were still some great sightings to be had. Here are some curious giraffes.

    Three giraffes standing among trees in a grassy area, with one giraffe looking directly at the camera.
    Two giraffes standing in a natural setting with trees in the background.

    Lots of elephants as the park, known as “the place of elephants”, is home to over 11,500 of these gentle giants, one of the highest densities of pachyderms in any protected area in Africa. They are the most beautiful giants, so graceful and gentle.

    A baby elephant walking near trees in a natural habitat setting.
    A group of elephants, including a baby, walking through a dry landscape with sparse vegetation and trees.
    This was the most fun crossing! Geoff filmed as I went back and forth.
    Fish eagle
    Not happy to see us!
    Close-up of an elephant standing among sparse vegetation in a natural setting.
    A close-up view of an elephant in a dry, bushy landscape, showcasing its large ears and tusks.
    A sandy landscape alongside a river with sparse vegetation, including a large tree on the bank and a gentle slope leading to elevated land in the background.
    River crossing
    Go that way!
    Wildebeest
    Elephant print
    Large buffalo herd
    Helmeted guineafowl
    Vultures with dead elephant carcass
    More crossings…

    We drove the length of the park towards the border with Mozambique at Sango and into Chicualacuala. It took about 4 hours where we didn’t see another soul or animals. The southern part of the park is not as full of game or as scenic but it is still beautiful. The road deteriorated in parts but nothing our beast couldn’t handle. The border crossing took a long time. We thought that it would be quick as it is a small border, but no! We were the only people there and they had to find the immigration official, apparently they have about 6 people cross per day. They all wanted to chat to us so 1.5 hours later we finally managed to cross into Mozambique. We heard bad things about hassle and corruption at this border post but we experienced only friendliness and warmth.

    A person walking towards a building with a green roof and a solar panel, situated next to a gated entrance, with a paved road and a fence in the foreground.
    A serene view of a dry riverbed in a scenic landscape, surrounded by sparse vegetation and distant trees, reflecting the dry season in a wildlife park.
    A scenic view of a river meandering through a dry, rocky landscape with sparse vegetation and distant hills under a clear sky.
    A scenic view of a winding river surrounded by rocky terrain and dense greenery under a bright sky.

    And so our trip comes to an end. A fabulous time in the wilderness where we felt contented and at peace, well, apart from the time when awful roads went on forever! Botswana and Zimbabwe are wonderful countries with friendly, welcoming people. The wildlife is abundant and I love the way the parks feel properly wild and there are animals walking around freely both day and night. A truly amazing experience.

  • Exploring Botswana: Nature, Adventures, and Wildlife

    Where to start…. This trip took months to plan, a lot of excitement and hundreds of emails and messages. We got the car kitted out with an extra fuel tank and a fridge – game changer, best thing ever. Dave and Jackie joined for the first leg up to Victoria Falls and it was great to have company, especially when we got stuck in the sand!

    Cranes on the way to the Kalahari

    We started by making our way to the Kalahari. All I could think about was the David Attenborough series where he depicts life in the Kalahari desert, the rains arriving and how animals live in such a dry, arid environment. Well, it was like that. A huge desert in the middle of nowhere, hot in the day, freezing at night and very, very dusty and sandy. There were not many animals to see but just being in such a vast, deserted place was pretty amazing. No people and no facilities, just us and nature. We stayed at Kori Pan campsite in Deception Valley. A very private spot with a drop toilet smeared with shit and a bucket shower but you need to bring your own water!

    So much sand, getting tyre pressure down.
    How do cows live in so much sand???
    Facilities are very basic. Drop toilets, that’s it. Need to be self sufficient!
    Three people relaxing in camping chairs at a campsite, with a tent and a vehicle in the background.
    What am I?
    All cosy, 0 degrees outside!
    A campfire burning in a circular stone fire pit surrounded by sandy ground and sparse trees in the background during sunset.
    Close-up of a giraffe with a clear blue sky in the background.

    From the Kalahari, we headed to Nxai Pan. It may look close on the map, but the roads were rough and the journey took longer than expected. Endless sand and wide open spaces stretched as far as the eye could see and I loved it. There’s something magical about desolate landscapes; the emptiness itself feels special.

    I read someone online complaining about not seeing lions on their safari, but for me, being immersed in nature and soaking up the wilderness is the real reward. Animals are a bonus, a sprinkle of magic on an already incredible experience. I especially love how you can drive for hours without encountering another car or person, a rare sense of isolation in a world filled with buildings, traffic, and technology. It’s a reminder of how unique and beautiful these wild spaces truly are.

    Maybe it’s the heat….
    Signposts indicating directions and locations in a dry, sandy landscape, with sparse vegetation and a clear blue sky.

    We drove through Makgadikgadi Pans National Park where we saw a zebra migration and not much else and finally arrived in Nxai Pan. The road into Nxai Pan was one of the worst roads we’ve been on. By the time we arrived at camp, our shocks were broken. Still, it was a beautiful spot and although in the dry season there aren’t many animals around, they do congregate around the waterhole throughout the day and evening. A stunning spot with the sun setting behind the water. Our camp was Nxai Pan South Camp with views and visiting elephants during the day and night. Plenty of jackals as well who are very clearly used to humans and were not shy in approaching us. The first elephant to visit us was HUGE and it was a little scary. We all sat down and just watched him as he munched away and gave himself dust showers. They are such gentle creatures and so, so quiet. You can turn around and suddenly there is one behind you. How does such a massive animal make so little noise walking around?

    Zebra migration
    View from inside a camping tent looking out onto a sandy path with dry trees in the background and a clear blue sky.
    View from the tent
    A partially obscured lioness peeking through tall grass in a savanna landscape during golden hour.
    Spot the lion, they’re hard to find!
    A lioness walking across a dusty landscape during sunset, with a pastel-colored sky in the background.
    A lion standing near a waterhole in a dusty landscape during sunset, with sparse trees in the background.
    Some pretty huge baobabs!
    An elephant drinking water at a waterhole during sunset, surrounded by sparse vegetation.
    Two elephants standing together in a dry landscape with sparse vegetation and a tree in the background.
    Wildebeest decided to have a stampede… The ostriches weren’t too bothered.
    Playtime
    An elephant standing near a waterhole in a dry landscape during sunset, with its reflection visible in the water.
    Elephants and lions at sunset
    Silhouette of two elephants walking against a sunset backdrop, with warm orange hues illuminating the scene.
    Silhouette of lions against a vibrant orange sunset in the savanna.
    Silhouette of three lions against a vibrant orange sunset in an African savannah landscape.
    A lioness standing on a dry, barren landscape at sunset, showcasing the wilderness of Botswana.

    From Nxai Pan, we made our way to Moremi Game Reserve in the Okavango Delta. On the way, we saw plenty of zebra from the migration and some elephants making the most of the waterholes along the road. It is incredible to be driving on a major, national road and see animals walking about all around!

    A group of zebras drinking water from a small waterhole, with an elephant standing nearby in a dry, open landscape.
    A group of zebras drinking water at a riverbank, surrounded by sparse vegetation.
    More sand….
    Two smiling people posing for a selfie outdoors, with trees and sandy ground in the background.

    Moremi was truly a highlight of the trip! A stunning park with beautiful waterways which we explored by boat one afternoon. Many elephants and truly breathtaking scenery. Although this was the dry season, there were areas with water and plenty of waterholes with animals. Our campsite was once again, private and with open views and we have plenty of visitors, especially elephants. We had one sleeping next to the tent, such deep breathing, relaxing but also a little unnerving. It was the middle of the night and we heard him eating the tree next to our tent. Then just quiet followed by a very deep breathing. Geoff asked if this was Dave snoring but alas it wasn’t. We listened to this breathing for a while until I got curious and went to investigate. Got a bit fright as the elephant was right there staring at me. He looked at me with some sort of disdain or indifference, hard to tell, and walked off. Probably not impressed that I woke him up. Definitely one place to go back to one day….

    Many bridges to cross
    Making sure the bridge is safe
    Yep, he thinks…
    To cross or not to cross… We didn’t cross! There were hippos and crocs, not a good place to get stuck.
    Saying hi
    A tranquil landscape featuring a solitary tree reflected in a calm body of water, surrounded by grassy vegetation and a clear sky.
    The silliest looking animals…
    Munching his way towards us
    And flop, belly full!
    Tried to catch some impala but no luck
    A hyena walking through a grassy landscape with trees in the background.
    A tranquil scene of a grassy landscape with two antelopes resting near a waterhole, surrounded by sparse trees and a serene atmosphere.
    A group of antelope gathered near a river in a grassy landscape, reflecting their image in the water.
    Two ostriches walking in a dry landscape with sparse vegetation in the background.
    Two ostriches standing in a dusty landscape with sparse vegetation, showcasing the arid environment.
    A serene landscape featuring tall grasses and a tree along a waterway, with a clear blue sky and a visible moon in the background.
    Another to cross or not to cross….

    We did a boat trip with an extremely knowledgable guide. He knew incredible facts about all animals and had many stories to tell. He took us past a pod of hippos who were taking an interest in our boat, a little too much interest for my liking. We had to go past the hippos so he got close and then full speed ahead. The hippos charged at us, big teeth and mouths open, they are bloody fast! Too fast for a photo but what a photo that would have been. I am sure he does this to all the visitors and has a good laugh afterwards.

    A road trip involves driving… We did a lot of it! By the time we got back home, we had done 5,000 kms. Mainly through deserts, rocks, rivers, corrugation, deep sand, you name it. This is going into Savuti/Chobe, hard going road but a beautiful sunset at the end and a lion print – we found them next day but camera was not cooperating so only one fuzzy photo…. Again more elephants munching around us and other things we couldn’t identify. Thinking of investing in a tent with windows so that we can see what is lurking in the darkness. At the moment, it is more a game of I hear rather than I spy.

    Close-up view of sand with animal tracks and small stones scattered throughout.
    A sunset over a tranquil landscape, with silhouettes of trees against a vibrant orange and blue sky.

    Our final destination in Botswana was Senyati Safari Camp where they have a hide and you can watch the elephants at the waterhole. You go down into this hide, looks like a WW2 bunker and you are at eye level with the water and the elis massive feet! Quite stinky but amazing to be so close to them. We only saw them at night so hard to take decent photos. Some of them came right up to us, I was waiting for a trunk to make its way inside but they didn’t share that with us.

    A highly dangerous predator lurks in the fields….
    Not my photo but gives an idea of the hide
    A group of elephants gather at a waterhole under a large tree during twilight, with the sky transitioning to dusk.
    A group of elephants gathered around a waterhole under a bright moonlight, surrounded by dark silhouettes of trees.
    A group of warthogs drinking from a waterhole, accompanied by a stork wading nearby.
    Two warthogs drinking water at a waterhole, with a bird standing nearby, in a natural setting.

    Not many mishaps were had on this leg of the trip apart from when we saw a tree on the road and decided to move it. We soon found out the tree was there for a reason and promptly became very stuck in the sand. Thankfully Dave had bought some mud tracks which we all thought were probably a waste of money, but no, they were indeed very useful. If you see a tree on the road, don’t move it! If you see a sign, follow the instructions! We failed on both counts.

    A dirt road with tire tracks leading to a sign that says 'STOP THICK SAND KEEP RIGHT' along with warnings about trailers and caravans. The scene is surrounded by trees and a clear blue sky.
    Two men working to free a car stuck in the sand with recovery tracks on the ground and bushes in the background.
    A dirt road leading to safari camps with signs indicating directions to 'Last Eden Safaris Bush Camp' and 'Thobolo's'. The landscape is dry with sparse vegetation under a clear blue sky.
    Off to Zimbabwe!

    This was the end of the Botswana leg of our trip. It is truly a beautiful country with friendly, welcoming people. The parks we visited were beautiful and wild. They are all so different and offer stunning views and plenty of animals. Elephants are everywhere and we were lucky to see some lions. I find it almost impossible to describe and depict the beauty and the wilderness, the sense of space and isolation. The being vulnerable in nature, sharing the space with animals we grow up watching on television and are deemed so dangerous. They are dangerous but they are not after us and we relaxed into being in their space and being comfortable with them walking around us. A truly magical experience which left me feeling contented and at peace.

    Next blog one is on Zimbabwe!

  • Traveling Through Mozambique: Beaches and Culture

    As we come to the end of our first year in Maputo, here are some of what we got up to apart from working and getting on with life. Bilene is not far from Maputo so we ventured there one weekend. It is a beautiful lagoon albeit very shallow!

    A person relaxing on a sandy beach with a calm lagoon and a distant island under a clear blue sky.
    A sandy beach in Bilene, Mozambique, with clear blue skies and a calm lagoon. Red canoes are visible on the shore, and a few people are scattered along the beach enjoying the scenery.

    On the way home, we stopped to buy passion fruit on the road and were greeted by these kids who wanted to have their photo taken!

    Two smiling children posing for a photo near a makeshift roadside stand selling fruit, surrounded by greenery.
    A smiling young girl holding a baby wrapped in colorful fabric, both standing outdoors with greenery in the background.
    Two boys sitting on a tree branch, one holding a bowl, with a brick structure and greenery in the background.

    Back in Maputo, we have been making our home cosy. Nacho approves of the colourful outdoor patio.

    A cozy outdoor patio area in Maputo, featuring a small wooden table, a potted plant with red flowers, and a white cat standing on the tiled floor.

    Mozambique gets its fair share of rain and cyclones. In the few months we’ve been here, we’ve been hit by three tropical storms. We thought it would be fun to go for a drive and were not expecting to see so much flooding in downtown Maputo! The other photo is at school, outside my office. After the rain, there were tons of tiny, cute frogs.

    Flooded street in downtown Maputo, showcasing high water levels and reflections of nearby buildings.

    In April, we had a week off and decided to explore! Vilanculos is about 750km (466 miles) north of Maputo and although we drove for 10.5 hours, we only covered 1/3 of the country, it is so big!! The main attraction is the Bazaruto Archipelago that is made up of five islands which lie just off the mainland between Vilanculos and Inhassoro. We visited three of them – Bazaruto Island – the largest of the five, Benguerra Island and Santa Carolina. 

    Ilha do Bazaruto has some amazing dunes with a view to die for. Quite a sandy climb in the heat but worth it.

    A person standing on a sandy dune with blue skies and fluffy white clouds in the background.
    Sandy dunes against a clear blue sky with a hint of greenery and water in the distance.
    A scenic view of a shallow lagoon with a sandy beach and blue waters under a clear blue sky.
    Wide view of a sandy beach with clear blue water, mountains in the distance, and a few boats near the shore under a bright sky.

    Benguerra island was not as pretty but there were some cool boats and kids to photograph!

    Two sailboats on calm water under a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.
    Three children sitting on a colorful fishing boat, with one child playfully posing and another lying down, against a backdrop of a sunny beach and blue sky.
    A person standing next to a colorful fishing boat named 'Mana Gina' on a shallow beach in Mozambique with clear blue skies in the background.
    Scenic view of a beach with boats anchored in shallow water, surrounded by greenery and blue sky.

    Back in Vilanculos, we found that the reason why there was nowhere to go was due to the cyclone that had hit 2 weeks prior to our arrival. The beach and the beach front hotels were badly hit and fishermen lost 200 boats. Many houses were also destroyed to the point of obliteration. A sad sight and no help in sight for local people who have lost their livelihoods. We have a fundraiser going, if you’d like to contribute, let me know.

    The beach is a working fishermen’s beach and is often busy with boats coming and going and women selling fish. It’s a peaceful place and good for watching the world go by.

    Local restaurant
    A small roadside kiosk with a metal roof displays various colorful items, set against an outdoor backdrop featuring trees and a blue sky.

    We took a trip to Santa Carolina island – an off-the-beaten-track rock island. Santa Carolina was truly stunning! There is a ruined hotel on the island built in the 1950s by Portuguese businessman Joaquim Alves, who abandoned the hotel when Mozambique gained independence in June 1975. The hotel was made up of 10 buildings with a combined 250 rooms. Alves also built a chapel on the island. Today, it lies in ruins but you can see its splendor as you walk around it. Apparently, there are rumours of famous guests staying while it was still in use. For example, several travel sites claim that Bob Dylan wrote his song Mozambique in the restaurant of the hotel – who knows…

    Scenic view of a sandy beach with rocky formations, turquoise waters, and a clear blue sky.
    Scenic view of a beach with rocky formations, turquoise water, and trees in the background under a cloudy sky.

    Everyone said to go to Dunas Vermelhas for sunset – red dunes. So, we did! About 30minutes of deep sand driving, wondering where we were going to until the road went no further. A steep climb and presto, magnificent views!

    On the way back, we stopped in Tofo beach….

    And back to Maputo! I got some shots coming in to land in Maputo on my way from a conference in Tanzania.

    Aerial view of a city with a river and a highway, featuring densely packed houses and greenery, as seen from an airplane wing.

    Eswatini is very close to Maputo and very beautiful with multiple game reserves that are easily accessible. We visited Hlane Park where you can take a stroll with the rhinos. You go with a ranger and they have a wooden stick they call the rhino stick for protection – not sure how useful this is… You can only walk with the white rhinos and only the ones the rangers know not to be aggressive. By the end of the weekend, we had seen so many rhinos! Never having seen them in the wild, we went from one extreme to the other.

    Two white rhinos resting on the ground amidst green vegetation.
    Road block!
    Maribou stork, they are massive!
    My fave, no zoom!

    In May, Eswatini hosts the Bushfire Festival. I had low expectations but was pleasantly surprised. The festival was like a mini Womad, well organised, clean and very chilled. Their website reads: each year about 20,000 people from all over the world “bring their fire” to the Malkerns Valley to experience an eclectic Pan-African and international line-up of live music, theatre, poetry, film, circus, dance and visual arts. It is a stunning setting surrounded by mountains. Unlike British festivals, the food was good and affordable! We didn’t know any bands apart from Bongeziwe Mabandla from South Africa who is amazing. We will be going back next year.

    A performer singing passionately on stage under vibrant purple lighting, with dramatic spotlight effects.
    A group of people at a concert, with a stage in the background lit up with blue and purple lights. Two individuals in the foreground are taking a selfie, smiling at the camera.

    Just a few random photos of a farm in Eswatini that looks like the Sussex countryside and a local beach near us in Maputo, great for chilling and chatting to the locals! Thank you Miguel, ChiChi and Madu for sharing this with us.

    I am leaving today for Lisbon as I finish this first year’s blog in Mozambique. It has been full of highs and lows and heartache for Thailand but we have made some good friends and had some cool adventures. Looking forward to the next year. But… yesterday, before I finish this completely, we went to the Maputo Air Show. It was beautiful over the river, especially as the sun went down. I have been having fun playing with Photoshop too!

    Two planes performing an aerial display over the ocean, leaving colorful smoke trails behind them.

  • Exploring Mozambique: Adventures and Connections

    Daily life is pretty similar to anywhere. We get up, go to work, come home, shop, cook…. We are slowly meeting new people and starting to feel like we can think about other things beside settling in. There seems to be a period of excitement on arrival, so many new things, so much to put in place. New home, new country, new school, new job, new people. So much to learn and understand that there is no space for much else. Slowly, the excitement starts to wane and reality sets in. We miss what we left behind and don’t always like what we have as we mourn what we lost. This is lifting slowly and we are finding our feet and making new connections.

    One fun thing about moving is that there is so much to explore anew. I guess that is what we like, this stimulation and adventure. In the midst of our daily life, we find time to explore close to home and further afield. One trip in November was somewhere between Malongane and Mamoli in the south of Mozambique, close to the South African border. We rented an airbnb on the beach and were the only people around during our stay. It is a beautiful beach, long, sweeping and deserted.

    A warning sign indicating a speed limit of 50 km/h with additional messages in Portuguese and English alerting drivers to elephants ahead and advising to travel slowly.
    Driving through Maputo National Park
    A scenic view of a tropical beach with clear blue water and gentle waves, surrounded by lush green vegetation.
    A serene beach view with soft sands and gentle waves lapping at the shore, featuring dense greenery and structures on the hillside in the background under a clear blue sky.
    A person standing in the shallow water of a beach, with gentle waves lapping at the shore under a clear blue sky.
    A scenic view of a beach with gentle waves under a pastel sky, framed by lush greenery in the foreground.
    A sunset over the ocean, with the sun peeking above the horizon against a backdrop of soft, pastel colors in the sky.

    This is the village of Malongane. Should have tried the hairdresser’s…

    A small red shop with a thatched roof and wooden stools, featuring a Vodacom logo on the wall. A person can be seen sitting behind the counter, with greenery in the background on a sunny day.

    I had my first school trip to Tofu in the north of Mozambique with Grade 8 students. It was a tiring trip but fun at the beach with diving, snorkeling and surfing. Kids had a good time and the place was beautiful! We stayed in tree houses with lovely views.

    We visited a local project – Boa Gente: https://www.boagente.com/, where they use coconuts to make oil, dried coconut, soaps and many other products.

    Grating coconuts

    We spent half a day at a local pottery where women pass down this age old tradition and handbuild precise items with amazing speed! The women work by the floodplain of the Mutamba River in Inhambane Province, Mozambique. An area rich in deposits of high quality clay which has been used for up to 1,000 years by the local community to produce traditional handmade pottery products and clay bricks for construction. The clay is so fundamental to local livelihoods that women artisans who represent the vast majority of skilled potters, have a saying in Gitonga, the local language spoken only in Inhambane. Unga lili mwana, lila libumba – don’t cry for men, cry for clay. https://www.libumba.com/products

    A woman is sitting on the floor shaping clay into a pot, surrounded by various pottery tools and materials.
    Two women working at a pottery studio, crafting clay items. One woman is shaping a pot on a pottery wheel, while the other is molding a cup. The workspace features various clay pieces and tools, with shelves of pottery in the background.

    We walked down to the river to see where the clay comes from and to see how they make local bricks.

    December arrived and Marianne came to visit! We were very excited to receive our first visitor and to get to spend time together. We travelled to Kruger for a safari where we saw many animals, see if you can name them!

    A zebra grazing in a grassy field with bushes in the background and a clear blue sky above.
    Scenic view from a wooden deck overlooking a tranquil river surrounded by lush greenery and trees under a clear blue sky.
    A view from a vehicle showing a group of antelopes grazing near a road in a natural setting, with trees and underbrush in the background.
    Three giraffes walking down a dirt road in a natural environment, with green shrubs and trees in the background and a clear blue sky above.

    After Kruger we went to Cape Town. A busy, cosmopolitan city surrounded by nature, centred around Table Mountain, one of the New 7 Wonders of the world. It was such a busy few days, we were exhausted but had a fun, enjoyable time. What is amazing, is the setting. Everywhere you look, you get beautiful views of table mountain and the water. There was far too much to do and we didn’t manage to visit all the places we wanted but we had a good go!


    B0-Kaap is a former racially segregated area, situated on the slopes of Signal Hill above the city centre and is a historical centre of Cape Malay culture in Cape Town. the most colourful neighbourhood in Cape Town lined with beautiful cobblestone streets built by the Dutch.  Enslaved people were brought to CapeTown by the Dutch from around 1653, many of whom came from the Dutch east Indies. Many of Cape Town’s original buildings would have been erected by these workers. These people were settled
    in this area around 1760 in single story white houses built by a Dutch man called Jan deWaal. The main street up today is named after him, Wale street. The area was formerly known as the “Malay quarter” due to the inhabitants coming from the East.
    A bright yellow building with white trim and a wooden door, situated on a street with surrounding greenery and a few items displayed on a table in front.
    At the Museum of Contemporary Art
    A beaded Nelson Mandela!

    We had a wonderful picnic at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. This is an important botanical garden nestled at the eastern foot of Table Mountain in Cape Town and one of the seven most magnificent botanical gardens in the world. It contains over 7,000 species of plants from only southern Africa, set in 528-hectares.  It is a truly magnificent garden and you really need a whole day to wander around and truly enjoy its beauty,

    Green flowering plants with tall stalks and vibrant foliage in a garden setting.

    We spent an afternoon exploring Muizenberg and taking a walk to Kalk Bay although we cheated and went back for the car halfway through! Muizenberg to Kalk Bay is a 6.5 km walk , with several beaches and tidal pools where you can swim although it was a little chilly for water frolics when we were there.

    A large white rock stands by the shore, surrounded by a gentle surf and smaller stones, under a blue sky with some clouds.

    One of the main reasons for wanting to go to Kalk Bay was to see the seals. We had read that they hang around the harbour but we were not prepared for what we found! They are just wandering about and they are huge and rather scary so the photos are me running away from them and trying to get a shot. There were quite a few jumping in and out of the water and playing. Kalk Bay is very scenic and worth the visit although we found the actual town a little too twee for our taste.

    A sea lion lying on the harbor's edge near colorful fishing boats in the background.

    We had a wonderful drive on Chapman’s Peak and stopped at Boulders Beach to see the penguins. It was ridiculously windy so after being fully sandblasted, we retreated. The penguins were not active and were just lazing on the beach.

    Chapman’s Peak Drive was hacked out of the face of the mountain between 1915 and 1922, and at the time was regarded as a major feat of engineering. This is such a spectacular drive, certainly deserving its rating as one of the most beautiful scenic drives in the world. Gorgeous beaches, stunning panoramas around every turn and lots of turns and twists with 114 bends. This beautiful road overlooks the sea and feels like you’re traveling alongside a mountain’s edge. It is only 5.59 miles long but you could spend hours taking it all in.

    I didn’t take the first 2 photos as no drone but they give you a sense of the scenery and the road.

    And onto the penguins! In the early 1980’s, a pair of African penguins settled on Boulders Beach and since then, the penguin population has exploded to between 2,000 and 3,000. The beach and surrounding beaches are stunning with huge boulders and clear water. You can’t get to the actual beach where the penguins are, but you walk on a boardwalk and watch the penguins from above.

    A group of African penguins resting on the sandy beach with some seaweed scattered around.

    We tried to go to the top of Table Mountain 3 times. The queues were massive, the wind was too strong but third time lucky and it was worth it. I think I spent the 6 days just going wow everywhere I looked in this place. Going to the top was the icing on the cake. Flanked by Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head, Table Mountain makes up the northern end of the Cape Fold Mountain range. It’s hard to imagine, but the mountain’s distinctive flat top – a three-kilometre level plateau – was once the bottom of a valley! The mountain was given its name — Tabua do Cabo (Table of the Cape) — by Antonio de Saldanha after he climbed up Platteklip Gorge in 1503. The easiest way to get to the top is by cablecar which opened in 1929. The journey up the mountain takes about five minutes and the cars rotate through 360 degrees during the trip. We though about walking but it is a rather strenuous climb of around 5 hours.

    They have giant cones in South Africa!

    Break nearly over, Marianne flies out and we miss her once again… Looking forward to the summer where we can all be together again with Joshie and Sandra too. We took time to pop over to Nelspruit and Eswatini as we had work to do on the car. We explored north of Nelspruit and were pleasantly surprised. Beautiful scenery and so many waterfalls… We decided to visit the Lisbon and Berlin falls as they were the largest ones, so beautiful.

    A scenic view of a waterfall cascading into a deep pool surrounded by lush greenery and rocky cliffs, with pine trees in the background.

    We visited God’s Window. Hovering 900 metres above the valley floor below, perched on the edge of a cliff, is the breath-taking view of God’s Window, a small section of a 250km long stretch of sheer cliffs and breathtaking South African scenery, nicknamed Garden of Eden. The viewpoint offers panoramic views of the Blyde River Canyon and the surrounds of Mpumalanga. The cliffs in the distance have thick emerald green forests of vegetation and many waterfalls. Sadly, a huge mountain of fog rolled in shortly after we arrived b ut I managed to get a couple of shots.

    Lush green forest view with hanging moss and dense vegetation.
    The huge drop is not scary with the fog!

    On the way back, we stopped at Graskop Gorge. Another stunning place with a lift that takes you 51 metres down into the gorge. There are wooden walkways and suspension bridges that take you around the indigenous forest below with views of the gorge and the waterfall.

    A man standing on a wooden platform with green hills in the background, wearing a white t-shirt and shorts, smiling and pointing at the view.

    We end our trip by driving through Eswatini back to Mozambique. Eswatini is a small mountainous country with spectacular views all around. It is an amalgamation of more than 70 clans with their own customs and although we weren’t there at the right time, there are many local festivals that look pretty impressive. It is a quiet place, it feels like being in a large village. People are very friendly and helpful and it is the perfect place to do nothing. At the end of May, a huge music festival takes place at House on Fire. From their website: named “Top African festival” by the BBC and hailed by CNN as one of the “7 African music festivals you really have to see,” MTN Bushfire is more than a festival, it’s a living, breathing ecosystem deeply rooted in African soil, yet inclusive and welcoming to guests from all over the world. This uniquely African yet globally infused family friendly festival experience welcomes thousands of people from over 60 countries in an atmosphere of tolerance and passionate commitment to music, the arts and the environment. We are looking forward to being a part of this! https://www.bush-fire.com/

    On the way to Eswatini, we took the geo trail from Barbeton in South Africa to Eswatini. It is a spectacular 38km mountain pass between Barberton and the Josefsdal border post with Eswatini that has been developed as the Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail. There is information about the area’s geology and it’s links to the plant diversity and history along the route. There twelve landscaped viewpoints with info panels and picnic stops where you can look at rock specimens, geological features, and view points to tell the story of how the early Earth evolved some 3.6 billion years ago. The tarred road cuts through some of the most spectacular scenery in the country.  

    Scenic view of rolling green hills and distant mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

    The border crossing was deserted and very small. I don’t think many people chose to cross there! In Eswatini, we stayed near Sibebe Rock. one of southern Africa’s most impressive geological features. This immense, three-billion-year-old volcanic slab, which rises to 1,488m and covers some 16,500ha, is the world’s largest granite dome. Only Australia’s Uluru beats it to the title of ‘world’s largest rock’. There is a decent art scene and we visited 2 good art galleries in the area.

    A person standing on a rocky outcrop, overlooking a lush green landscape with rolling hills and scattered farms, wearing a floral shirt and shorts.
    A vibrant, artistic entrance featuring a tower adorned with mosaics and sculptures, alongside intricate carvings and colorful decorations in a lush green garden.
    House on Fire, great place for art, food and crafts.

    I’ll leave you some South African patés, a beautiful horse and a chilled Pixie cat! Until next time.

  • Life in Mozambique: Our First Three Months

    We got offered the jobs back in December so it has seemed like a long wait to get here. We finally landed on the 2nd August and now it was time to start getting settled. It is funny how there is so much excitement and stress beforehand, so much to do, so much preparation and then there is the slump where you are finally here and reality hits… Mozambique was particularly challenging with the paperwork required. It took us 7 months to get it all done and to get the visas which we did a few days before we were due to get on the plane. We were warmly welcomed in Maputo and taken good care of, great start.

    Our container leaving Phuket!

    A shipping container filled with neatly stacked cardboard boxes labeled 'USP RELoCATIONS' in various sizes.
    A shipping container marked with Maersk branding, displaying various specifications on its back, parked in a yard with a partly cloudy sky in the background.
    A cluttered kitchen space filled with unpacked boxes and items after a move, showcasing a mix of kitchen utensils, food containers, and luggage.
    Chaos!!
    A welcoming display of various fruits including bananas, apples, oranges, and a pineapple, along with a greeting note and a chocolate bar, set on a colorful patterned cloth beside water bottles and a woven bag.

    The first few days were spent shopping, eating (a lot! the food is pretty good here), sightseeing and getting to know the place. This is Dhow, a beautiful place with amazing sunsets and some furniture made of old ammunition left from the war.

    A panoramic view of Maputo, Mozambique, showcasing the coastline, a river, and cityscape under a dramatic cloudy sky.
    A scenic view of a creative outdoor living space featuring a decorative wall with mirrors, plants, and a stairway leading to a rooftop, overlooking a river with palm trees in the distance.
    Mirror reflecting Maputo
    A beautiful sunset over the skyline of Maputo, Mozambique, with palm trees in the foreground and a bridge in the background.
    Exterior view of a historic museum building with ornate architecture, palm trees, and a clear blue sky.
    Natural History Museum
    Graffiti in the Baixa
    A colorful mural on a building featuring the phrase 'TRIUNFAR NA DIFERENÇA' along with a child's portrait and silhouettes of people walking.
    Exterior view of the historic train station in Maputo, Mozambique, featuring a grand architectural design with a domed roof and palm trees in the foreground.
    A grand colonial-style building featuring ornate architecture and a large clock, set against a clear blue sky with palm trees in the foreground.

    The old train station built between 1908 and 1916 is truly beautiful and well worth a visit both inside and out. I can’t find any information on where the trains go so I guess we won’t be going anywhere by train soon…

    When I first came to Mozambique in 1993, I went to a lovely stretch of beach just outside Maputo and I have fond memories of swimming in the sea there. Even though the weather wasn’t great, we decided to go to Macaneta beach, about 40 minutes away. It is a wild stretch of beach with large waves and no people although apparently it can get very busy once the summer arrives.

    Two people riding horses on a sandy beach with greenery in the background and a clear blue sky.

    We also explored a local fisherman’s village near our house where you can buy fish and seafood on the street and have it cooked in very rustic shacks overlooking the sea. A lively place with great atmosphere and no electricity, got pretty dark and everyone was eating by the light of their phones!

    A person sitting on a colorful boat with a thoughtful expression, overlooking the calm sea with small fishing boats in the background.
    This was the table, when I say rustic, I mean rustic!

    We had a long weekend, so what better way to explore than to go down to Ponta do Ouro. The closest beach to Maputo that is decent and has scuba diving. Diving here is not like Thailand! The water is cold and we had to wear 5mm wetsuits which made us all look totally ridiculous. The best bit is that you get taken out on a speed boat, jumping over the waves and holding on for dear life. Coming back in is even more hairy, as you approach the beach, the boat’s engine is revved to the max and you go flying up the beach onto the sand. They do tell you to hold on tight…

    Warning sign depicting an elephant interacting with a car, set against a cloudy sky and an open landscape.
    The beaches are simply incredible with lots of humpback whales and dolphins playing in the water
    A couple smiling for a selfie on a beach with waves and a sandy shore in the background.

    There’s a peacock outside my window!! Apparently they come over from the Portuguese International School next door. This seems to be his favourite perch. And, an owl outside my room! And a monkey outside my house!

    A peacock perched on a wooden ledge with vibrant green and blue feathers, surrounded by a rustic building and greenery.

    One of the benefits from living here is the close proximity to South Africa’s Kruger National Park, one of the largest game reserves in Africa, covering an area of 20,000 km2. It is about 2.5 hours drive away although the border crossing can prove to be challenging. It took us 3 hours to make it across, not great, but apparently it is not always this bad. Kruger has a large number of animals and we were impressed with what we saw. However, we missed the wilderness that we encountered in the Tanzanian parks. Kruger is very organised. Paved roads, service stations, petrol, restaurants, souvenir shops, fenced campsites… Not my kind of thing but the animals were great. We saw pretty much everything apart from leopards and rhinos.

    Sunset
    Close-up of an elephant standing in a grassy area with bush vegetation in the background.
    Yes, he was that close!
    Spot the elies
    Geoff exploring
    Wildebeest at sunset
    Elephant crossing!

    We had a mid term break in October and some time to explore Mozambique. We were recommended to go north to Tofu beach, next to the town of Inhambane. Tofu is a cute, small village with a few restaurants and places to stay. The beach is wild and empty – there’s a theme here! We didn’t know that this is where most of the teachers, parents and students go to during the October break so there were plenty of people to bump into.

    Inhambane is a sleepy town of about 80,000 people and is described as one of the prettiest towns in Mozambique. It was indeed very nice with lots of old buildings and large tree lined avenues. It has a small museum and an old church and remnants of old colonialism. We heard there was a statue of Vasco da Gama in the main square so we set off to find this old relic. We finally found him in a scrap yard down a back street. Funniest thing ever!! Apparently nobody wants him but not quite sure what to do with him, he has been relegated to some back year where is regularly topples over! The town has a long pier where you get beautiful views of the city and the bay and a decent local market with much better prices that you get in Tofu beach.

    A tranquil view of a serene waterway featuring several anchored boats and a charming red-roofed building along the shore under a cloudy sky.

    The area around Tofu is very beautiful with long, wild, sweeping beaches. Less developed than Tofu and with a popular kite surfing area, this felt like a special place. Not much there, a few places to stay and a great restaurant – the Green Turtle. On the way there, we stopped at a raised, wooden mangrove walk which took us to some fishermen and some interesting shadows under the pier.

    Underneath a wooden structure, mangrove roots are covered in barnacles, creating intricate patterns on the sandy floor.
    A close-up view of mangrove roots and the sandy ground beneath, featuring barnacles and shadows creating patterns in the sand.
    Drying fish

    And so, we come to an end of our first 3 months here! Lots more to explore and learn in this beautiful place. It has its challenges and moving is not easy but we are finally settling in. We are lucky to be able to explore and to have such easy access to beautiful places in and around Mozambique. I like Maputo and it has much to offer. There is a vibrant art culture here and we have seen some great music such as Bongeziwe Mabandla, from South Africa. Highly recommend having a listen to his latest album reviewed here in The Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/music/2023/apr/28/bongeziwe-mabandla-amaxesha-review. See if you can spot Geoff!

    A vibrant live music performance featuring a shirtless singer engaging with an enthusiastic crowd in a dimly lit venue.

    Currently, there is a dance festival, Kikani, taking place. There are many interesting shows at affordable prices. The venues are simple and intimate and it is a good way to meet other people outside of school. Another great show that is currently on tour, opened the festival last night, very impressive performance. Here is a short video: https://fb.watch/om0rIVbWDV/ for those who like modern dance, Bantu de Victor Pontes from Portugal, a collaboration between Portugal and Mozambique.

    To finish off, here is a dung beetle doing its thing, some beautiful waterfalls in Nelspruit in South Africa and a candelabra tree.

  • From Thailand to Edinburgh: A Journey of Memories

    We left Thailand behind after a full seven years. What a ride that was! So much happened in that time. We learnt to scuba dive, went on many adventures, I finished another masters, did teacher training, set up a counselling practice. We lived in Bangkok and Phuket, fostered many cats, fell in love with Misty dog, mourned Misty and a few cats passing…. Watched countless sunsets and swam in warm oceans, walked through jungles and went on many boat journeys. It was sad to leave but it was time. Time for a new adventure and a new job, time to meet new people and explore new places. Thailand will always be in our hearts and we will forever cherish those memories. But, before Mozambique, it was time for yet another European summer. As you know, my blogs are more about documenting things with photos, so here it goes!

    We finally made it to Edinburgh to see where Joshua and Sandra are living. Edinburgh is such a beautiful city but after Thailand it was rather chilly and we had to stock up on warm clothing which oddly has come in handy in Maputo! Our walkabouts through the city took us to many places… Their flat is by a lovely canal and I found some graffiti, of course! Edinburgh Castle is visible from many parts of the city and although it looks austere there is a beauty to it. It was a pleasure to walk around the city and to be shown sights and places that Joshua and Sandra enjoy going to.

    View of Edinburgh Castle from a cobblestone street lined with stone buildings and greenery under a clear blue sky.
    The castle!
    A building in Edinburgh adorned with a colorful floral installation, with views of Edinburgh Castle in the background against a clear blue sky.

    We visited Dean Village in the Stockbridge district. Until the nineteenth century it was an independent village in the shadow of Edinburgh. The village is on The Water of Leith, the main river that flows past Edinburgh to the sea via the Firth of Forth. Dean Village was best known for its many mills, which were used to grind grain. It is now a residential area with beautiful houses and views. Way out of our price range!

    A person standing in a shallow stream surrounded by green foliage, reflecting in the water.
    Don’t ask….

    We went to Carlton Hill, in the centre of the city and so easily accessible. Amazing views of the city and Arthur’s Seat, and a selection of historic monuments.

    We travelled to Brighton by train, a very nice journey and a lot cheaper than flying. Brighton remains the same but it is always good to see friends and spend time with family. We managed to see some live music, enjoyed Don Letts at the Concorde 2 and found some cool graffiti, good to see Jah Shaka immortalized on the streets of Brighton!

    As it seems to happen every year, we made our way to Portugal, ready to depart to Maputo from there. We explored Olhão in the Algarve, a cute small town by the water’s edge, gateway to our favourite island, Armona. Olhão is an old fishing village but more recently has become popular with tourists. There are still plenty of good places to eat, great cafes and the riverside walk is lovely in the evenings.

    A narrow street in a coastal town with whitewashed buildings and blue accents, adorned with blooming flowers under a clear blue sky.
    View from our house
    A decorated wall featuring blue and white tiles with wooden displays of carved figurines and candles arranged on a metallic shelf.
    An interior space decorated with blue and white tiles, featuring a depiction of two figures on the wall. There is a rack with multiple doll figures hanging, red candles lit on a shelf, and some greenery in the corner.
    A traditional fishing boat docked at a pier with yellow topped posts, surrounded by calm water and a light sky in the background.
    Street art mural featuring an illustration of a man in a suit on a garage door, surrounded by colorful graffiti and weathered walls. A sign for a Mercury service is visible above.
    Two dogs, one black and one brown, sit on a low wall with peeling paint, while a blue tent is visible in the background.

    We went to Armona island for the day with a picnic and lots of suncream. This island is is part of the natural park of the Ria Formosa. It is just so beautiful and special with magnificent beaches and so much space. The water was a little cold but we managed to dip our toes in.

    View of a sandy beach with blue water and clear skies, featuring two colorful beach umbrellas providing shade.
    Two women standing in shallow water at the beach, one with pink hair and the other with curly hair, both smiling and enjoying the sunny day.
    View of a serene beach with numerous boats floating in the calm blue water, accompanied by a sandy shore lined with small buildings and palm trees under a clear blue sky.

    We went to Lagos and took a boat trip to look at the famous secluded beaches of Lagos such as Praia D. Ana and Praia do Camilo and the amazing rock formations. Lagos was surprisingly ok, very touristy but quite pretty. I was pleasantly surprised! It is historically associated with the Portuguese Discoveries with an attractive centre that is mostly pedestrianized. The rock formations were really cool and it is well worth doing the boat trip if you are in the area.

    A scenic view of a natural rock arch over calm waters, with a person in a kayak nearby and a sandy beach in the background under a clear blue sky.
    View of a rock formation with a circular opening, showcasing bright blue sky above.
    A seagull standing on rocky formations near the water, with sandstone cliffs in the background.
    Natural rock formations arching over calm waters under a bright blue sky.

    In Faro, we visited the Bone Chapel. There are a few of these around Portugal but we had never been to this one! It is an ossuary dating back to the 18th century. The chapel was constructed from the bones of over 1,000 monks. If you look closely at the photos, you’ll be able to see that it has femurs and is decorated with over 1,200 skulls. Above the entrance, there is the following insightful or creepy inscription:

    Stop here and consider that you will reach this state too.

    The church also has a beautiful tower with amazing views of Faro and the nature reserve. Oh, and the planes fly right over.

    A person standing in front of a wall made of human skulls and bones in a chapel, pointing at one of the skulls.

    On the drive back to Lisbon we stopped over at Cais Palafítico da Carrasqueira. The Cais Palafita de Carrasqueira is composed of a wide range of boardwalks made of wood that is buried in the mud of the River Sado. These improvised constructions are a little more than fifty years old and were built to allow fishermen to board their boats during low tide. It is a surreal place with its own unusual beauty. Kind of eerie but beautiful.

    A blue fishing boat resting on the grassy shore of the River Sado, surrounded by wooden structures and a marshy landscape, under a clear blue sky.
    A wooden boardwalk stretching over a muddy riverbed, with upright wooden poles supporting it under a clear blue sky.

    Nearing the end of our holiday, we finally made it to Lisbon. No matter how many times I go there, it always looks beautiful and special. Some photos of old shops that were common but are now disappearing and some beautiful blue skies.

    A storefront in Lisbon featuring a small shop with an open door displaying magazines and various items, along with decorative tiles on the exterior and balconies above.
    Front of a local grocery store in Lisbon, displaying various fruits and beverages, with posters on the windows.

    With our holiday coming to an end, we explored Ericeira, one of the big surfing areas in Portugal. It is pretty wild and windy with a pretty old town centre. We also went to Mafra Palace. It is the most important baroque monument in Portugal and it covers an area of almost 4 hectares! It is truly massive. Some fun facts: it includes 1,200 rooms, more than 4.,700 doors and windows, 156 stairways and 29 inner yards and courtyards. Its library is thought to be one of the most beautiful in the world and the Royal Building has two carillons with 98 bells. Oh, and there is one room full of furniture and chandeliers made of animals! We were only able to see a fraction of it and I was left wondering how one family could possibly need so much space.

    Interior view of a historical hall featuring animal trophies mounted on the walls and a chandelier hanging from the ceiling, with visitors exploring the space.

    And finally, the last 2 days at a beautiful beach in Alentejo with brother Jorge and Filomena. Thank you for a lovely stay and companionship. See you next Summer.

  • Farewell Thailand: 7 Years of Adventure and Memories

    The countdown has begun, the sense that we don’t have much time and many things we are doing for the last time here. Will we be back? There is a whole world out there but Thailand will always be special to us.

    We have had an amazing 7 years here. We learnt to dive, our kids finished school and went off to uni, I finished my counselling masters, set up a business, visited many islands. Went to Cambodia, Laos, Hong Kong… We were in lockdown during Covid and had Phuket to ourselves. We’ve made good friends and so many memories! Sad to be leaving but excited for a new adventure.

    Some final photos from around Bang Tao, our home for the last 5 years and a place of many sunsets.

    A large, abandoned head sculpture with blond hair in a dilapidated building, surrounded by debris and remnants of construction.
    The old beach club. Went to ruin with Covid, never to return.
    Close-up of an elephant interacting with its environment, showcasing its textured skin and distinct features.
    Elephants near us, an ethical sanctuary with a great restaurant.
    A caretaker interacts with an elephant in a lush green area surrounded by trees.
    A street scene in Thailand at sunset, featuring a motorcycle and a car on a quiet road lined with power lines and structures.
    Sunrise on the way to work. One of the perks from leaving home at a ridiculous time!
    A vibrant nighttime scene featuring a traditional Thai temple illuminated by colorful lights, surrounded by festive decorations and banners.
    Local fair
    A brightly lit traditional Thai temple at night, decorated with colorful lights, showcasing intricate architecture and a statue in front. Two individuals are seen near the entrance.
    A vibrant night scene at a carnival featuring a tall, multicolored tower ride with lights. In the foreground, a person wearing sunglasses is seated in a harness, preparing for the ride.
    So, throw a ball at the heart and if you don’t miss, the woman falls into a tub of water.
    Nighttime scene at a carnival with three women sitting on platforms behind a netting, set up for a throwing game. Colorful decorations adorn the background and spectators are visible, enjoying the atmosphere.
    A vibrant amusement ride at night featuring colorful decorations and images of people enjoying music, with riders seated and attendants nearby.
    A serene sunset view over the beach, with golden reflections on the water and a silhouette of a beach bar with bottles lined up in the foreground.
    We’ll miss the sunsets…
    A serene sunset over the ocean, with two silhouettes of people or animals in the foreground, creating a peaceful atmosphere.
    Close-up of the front bumper of an Isuzu truck, featuring intricate blue paint designs and a visible license plate reading 'THAILAND 66 70-1297' with surrounding greenery.
    Nacho never stops amusing us.
    Our monochrome cats
    Our regular visitors. Love these big lizards, this one is a baby!
    Beautiful Bang Tao
    Monsoon is coming…

    One of my favourite places in Thailand is Khao Sok national park. Not far from Phuket and the most incredible scenery, jungle and lake. I was so lucky to have been able to go again with a school trip. It is covered by the oldest evergreen rainforest in the world, huge limestone mountains shooting straight up in the air, deep valleys, breathtaking lakes, exciting caves, wild animals – we heard elephants but didn’t see any! Lots of hornbills and monkeys though. It is an incredibly beautiful place, if you come to Thailand, make sure you visit the jungle and the lake. Amazing hikes, good to take a guide as they somehow spot stuff nobody else can see.

    Floating hotel for the night
    We hiked through the jungle and got to a lake inland. So beautiful!
    It was such a hot walk but it was worth it!
    The longest bamboo rafts ever!
    Jungle hotel
    Love my room!
    Cooking in bamboo on the fire. Delicious.
    We did a night safari where we saw all sorts of creepy crawlies.

    Phuket is not only beaches and luxury resorts and we found some beautiful walks. So hot to walk though and we are not good at going early!

    A very hot dog, she doesn’t like water but couldn’t resist.
    Kamala hill loop walk. It turned out to be quite hilly!

    Yay, Marianne came to visit! We spend some time in Railay beach and in Koh Phanghan. This was our last holiday here so we had to pick carefully. So many places to revisit but having been to Koh Phayam recently, Koh Phanghan was the next best choice. We went to a rave, just like the ones in the 80’s and enjoying chilling.

    For more than a century, Thai southerners have raised and trained monkeys to climb high trees and collect ripe coconuts for them. This is seen as a cruel practice, outside of Thailand at least and it was sad to come across these chained monkeys, forced to work in this trade.
    Not a bad view…
    The house came with cats and a dog!
    A serene beach scene with a sandy shoreline, gently lapping waves, and palm trees swaying in the breeze under a clear sky.
    Thong Nai Pan beach
    A woman with pink hair is sitting on a beach in a black bikini, smiling while holding a coconut drink. A man is seated beside her, both enjoying the beach scenery.
    Jungle Experience party, Marianne getting into the spirit. Our first rave together!
    Unusual graffiti on the ferry!

    When we fist came to Thailand seven years ago, we went to Railay beach in Krabi. Everyone raved about how beautiful it was and how it was a must. When we got there, it didn’t stop raining! It was still impressive but extremely wet. We decided to return for another go. It is a small peninsula only accessible by boat as there a huge limestone cliffs in the way. There are no cars, plenty of paths to explore, cafes and restaurants. It has an amazing chilled vibe and beautiful sunsets.

    Hungry birds
    Not sure I would call this a trail, more like a death defying steep scramble!
    I started taking photos of signs years ago in Belize. I am now hooked and love hand painted signs. Some from around Railay. Weed is now everywhere and this is reflected in many of the signs.
    A colorful wooden signpost featuring names of countries including the U.S.A., Australia, Malaysia, and Iceland, adorned with decorative art pieces. The signpost is set against a backdrop of a café with blue flooring and plastic chairs.
    Weed shop
    Phra Nang Beach, photos don’t do it justice, it is one of the most beautiful beaches…
    Not something you would expect to find on a beach!  On the southern side of Phra Nang Beach, there is a small cove full of phalluses! These penis carvings are placed here by fishermen, other locals, and visitors as offerings to the princess of the cave who will bring them prosperity. It is not unusual for this to be used in Thailand but this cave has really gone for it.
    The sign reads:
    “Local people, fisherman and navigators believe and hold faith in the Princess of the Pranang Cave that she will preserve and protect their livelihood and fulfill one’s wishes. When their wishes are fulfilled, votive offerings would be made at the shrine. Common gifts are flowers and incense sticks, but usually the spirits of the Goddess are offered a special gift, the lingam, which is carved from wood. The belief of the lingam and holy womb shall create fertility and prosperity to the whole earth and mankind.”
    Silhouette of longtail boats lined up on a beach at sunset, with cliffs in the background.
    There are many dusky leaf monkeys about! Incredibly cute, they go round in large groups. Hard to get a clear photo as they don’t stop moving.

    Trip to Bangkok, how about being a tourist? One great thing to do is to explore the canals, there are so many! The Chao Phraya River, or River of Kings runs through Bangkok and there are many smaller canals that link communities. In the 19th century, the canal and river network stretched hundreds of kilometres and was the lifeblood of the city. It connected houses, public spaces and temples, served as transport corridors for commercial goods and there were more floating than land-based markets.  Many have now been paved to make way for roads. You can walk the canals or you can get a longtail. We opted for a boat this time and it was worth it.

    Thais love cute things… At the airport.
    Old canal houses
    A view of a weathered wooden house with a rusted metal roof, partially covered in reflective material, located along a canal in Bangkok, surrounded by modern buildings.
    This giant Bhuddha just pops out above the houses… It is at Wat Pak Nam Temple and it is the largest Buddha statue in Bangkok at 64 meters.
    Good aerial shot!
    Artist’s House

    From one large Bhudda to another! Wat Pho is one of Bangkok’s oldest and largest temples. The image of the reclining Buddha represents the entry of Buddha into Nirvana and the end of all reincarnations. The posture of the image is referred to as sihasaiyas, the posture of a sleeping or reclining lion. The figure is 15 m high and 46 m long, and it is one of the largest Buddha statues in Thailand.

    A foot…
    A row of golden Buddha statues inside a temple, with intricate red and gold ceiling decor.

    We came to Bangkok from Moshi in Tanzania. A very rural setting to a very urban one. The first weekend we went to Lumpini Park in search of some nature. In our last weekend we returned to say goodbye. We didn’t see a massive monitor but saw a baby one!

    Baby monitor
    Interior view of a modern bookstore with tall bookshelves, a counter displaying books and merchandise, and people browsing. The space is bright and inviting, featuring photographs on the walls.
    One of the most fabulous bookshops with cakes and views
    Bathroom with a view…
    A display of beautifully designed desserts, featuring a variety of cakes including chocolate and fruit tarts, arranged neatly in a pastry shop.

    So, it is goodbye for now. The removals are packing as I type and there is sadness for endings and excitment for a new chapter. It is extra sad as we had to say goodbye to Misty a few days ago. She was an amazing dog! Often sick but courageous and full of joy and love. We will miss her dearly.

    A memorial setup for a beloved dog named Misty, featuring flowers, photographs, and a heartfelt tribute among colorful decorations.

  • Adventure Awaits: Moving from Thailand to Mozambique

    We’re definitely not used to the cold anymore! It was so good to come back to Thailand and be warm again. Thailand does feel like home, it is comfortable, familiar and we love it here. So, why are you moving, I hear you ask… When we decided to leave everything behind it was for an adventure, for variety, for a different way of life. Staying in one place is not what we want and Africa beckons. We had 3 places we were considering: Mozambique, Senegal and Turkey. There were jobs for both of us in all those countries but Mozambique came first. Now for the paperwork! And so it starts. We have spent the last 2.5 months getting phase one sorted and what a headache it has been – there is more to come but we will get there.

    A man sitting on a beach chair under tall trees with colorful umbrellas in the background, enjoying a relaxed moment by the sea.
    Bang Tao beach
    A tranquil beach scene with soft sand, gentle waves, and a backdrop of tall trees and mountains. People are enjoying the beach, some walking along the shore and others swimming in the water.
    A sandy beach in Thailand with people enjoying the water, surrounded by lush green hills and a clear blue sky.
    A beach scene in Thailand featuring colorful umbrellas and loungers on the sand with a view of the ocean and boats in the background.
    Misty doggo! Sadly, she has cancer and not much longer in this world.
    Silhouette of people walking along a beach during sunset with a scenic horizon and clouds.
    A picturesque sunset over the tranquil beach, with a gradient of orange and pink hues in the sky, reflecting on the calm ocean waters.
    A large, geometric pink bear sculpture standing in the street with buildings in the background.
    Something big in Phuket Town!
    A metallic door with signs warning about dormant snakes and instructions regarding store equipment usage and cupboard locking, intended for safety and organization.
    Not your average school warning…

    2023 saw the year of the Rabbit – Chinese Lunar Year with 15 day long celebrations. There are quite a few Chinese temples in Phuket so this is a popular celebration here and all over Thailand. We went into Phuket Town to see the sights and enjoy the party atmosphere.

    Colorful lanterns hanging above a street in Thailand, creating a festive atmosphere.
    Colorful paper lanterns hanging above a lively night market scene in Thailand.
    No idea who she is but she is now on my blog!
    A street performer covered in colorful paint sitting on a stool and painting on a canvas, surrounded by onlookers in a bustling street.
    A street artist with colorful body paint sits on a stool, creating artwork on an easel. The artist's back is visible, showcasing a blend of vibrant hues, while a crowd observes in the background.
    Colorful decorations and flags adorn a Chinese temple in Phuket, Thailand, showcasing a festive atmosphere.
    At one of the temples
    Wooden poles are decorated with gold leaf
    Colorful decorative ribbons hanging overhead in a vibrant display.
    Offerings
    An ornate incense burner with dragon sculptures on either side, filled with incense sticks, inside a Chinese temple adorned with traditional decorations.
    Incense bowl
    Where the Chinese fire crackers are lit

    As it is out last year in Thailand, we had to decide which places we wanted to visit for the last time; we settled on Koh Phayam. One of our favourite places ever. It is such a beautiful, chilled island, no cars and not much there. There is one ATM on the island and it doesn’t always work so good to take some cash with you. No 711s, no high rise buildings, only small local shops, simple bars and restaurants. One of few places where you can still get a simple bungalow on the beach! It’s the sort of place where you could get stuck for months…

    Pier in Ranong
    How to load a boat
    Things are simple over here…
    Our cabin at La Ong Lay on Long Beach, beautiful, quiet spot.
    The view from our cabin
    Sunset on Long Beach
    Resident baby monitor lizard. Great camouflage.

    Job To Do is well known all over Thailand! His music has made a massive impact on Thai country and folk music with his unique blend of reggae. He has had a huge influence on the popularity of reggae music in Thailand and he plays all over. He has played many times in Phuket and somehow I never managed to see him. As luck would have it, there he was on Koh Phayam right next to our hotel! Great music, they played for over 3 hours and what a great atmosphere, sand between our toes and a very chilled crowd. You can read more about him on here: https://phanganist.com/koh-phangan-party-musician-article/story-job2do-thailands-most-successful-reggae-act.

    Musician performing on stage with an electric guitar, wearing sunglasses and a hat, under colorful stage lights.
    The man himself
    How to play guitar with dreadlocks
    A serene sunset view over a tranquil beach, with silhouettes of distant hills and gentle waves reflecting warm orange and pink hues in the sky.
    A novel way to protect your property!
    A serene beach scene at sunset with silhouettes of people walking along the shoreline, surrounded by trees and distant hills.
    Sunrise
    A hornbill bird foraging near a feeding bowl on a pathway, surrounded by greenery and debris.
    Many hornbills on the island, especially around the Hippy Bar
    The Hippy Bar! Built completely out of driftwood, it is a fantastic construction , with up to 3 stories and many, many different spaces and chambers to sit down and enjoy the view and the sunset. Where the Thai hippies hang out 🙂
    Mike and Silvana
    The main bar
    The boat at night, so many colours
    An old wooden ship docked on a beach at night, adorned with colorful lights and surrounded by trees, with a serene sea in the background.

    I’m a sucker for hand painted signs, so here a few from the island.

    Our place!
    A hand-painted sign reading 'JAM ROCK' on the front of a colorful building, surrounded by green plants and decorative items.
    Hand-painted sign for 'Freedom Bar' at a tropical bar surrounded by greenery.
    If you are ever in Koh Phayam, go there! Such lovely people and lovingly made food.
    A little jungle view from a mountain top cafe
    What it looks like from the back of a bike!
    The road to our beach home always made me a little nervous but Geoff wasn’t bothered!

    I think we managed to explore most of the island on this second visit but there was a beach we had missed last time. It turned out to be one of our faves in the end. It had a road sign “beautiful rock by the sea” which was intriguing. As it turned out, there were many rocks by the sea and it was rather beautiful. I think the beach is called Khaokwai beach, not entirely sure as the signs point to the rocks and I saw no beach name.

    Signpost indicating direction to Hin-Ta-Lu (Koh Phayam's Sea Arch) with distance of 250 meters, sponsored by Phayamas Island Brew & Restaurant.
    Small bar on the beach, really chilled, managed to waste a few hours there…
    A scenic view of a rocky beach with a prominent rock formation featuring two arches, surrounded by crystal-clear water and a clear blue sky.
    Rock binoculars!

    And so ends our trip to Phayam – we will miss you! Back to Ranong and Phuket. Until next time…

    Fancy a haircut in Ranong?
    Another favourite – Memories in Khao Lak
    Hand-painted wooden sign displaying directions to Ninan, Kata, and Kamala Beach in vibrant colors.

  • Adventure After Summer: Our Journey Back to Thailand

    After a full on summer in Europe, we were finally back to Thailand and in need of a holiday. Time to start job hunting, scary time, have to hand in our notices before we have jobs but hey, that is part of the adventure, you never know where you might end up. So exciting but scary and nerve racking all at the same time. We are currently in the process of doing paperwork for Mozambique. Great school and package, fingers crossed it all gets accepted. In the meantime, we are enjoying our last few months in Thailand.

    View of an airplane wing against a dramatic sunset sky, with vibrant colors illuminating the horizon.
    Starting with sunsets or was it sunrise from the plane.
    A vibrant sunset over the ocean, with shades of orange, pink, and purple filling the sky, and gentle waves lapping at the shore.
    Back on our local beach – Bang Tao, will miss this place!
    A serene beach scene at low tide with a distant hill silhouetted against a cloudy sky, reflecting on the wet sand.
    Silhouette of a person standing on a beach with a dramatic, cloud-filled sky at sunset.
    A scenic sunset over the ocean with vibrant orange and pink clouds, and silhouettes of two people walking along the beach.
    A palm tree leaning over a sandy beach with a sign reading 'The Lazy Coconut' in front of a tranquil ocean under a cloudy sky.
    A wooden sign labeled 'Weather Station' displays humorous weather conditions using coconut references, set against a tropical beach backdrop with palm trees and lounge chairs.

    Due to my ulcerative colitis, we spend a lot of time in Bangkok but before that, here is something at the traffic lights in Phuket!

    A person in a bear costume with a colorful tutu walking between cars at a traffic stop.
    Selling small bottles of Yakult. No idea….
    Rainbow Phuket to Bangkok

    Whilst in Bangkok, we decided to explore places we had wanted to visit but for some reason or another had not got round to it. One of those places is the Golden Mound temple. Apparently it is the only hill in Bangkok and 344 steps take you to the top. It was built in 1467, quite old then.

    A small altar surrounded by thick tree roots and lush greenery.
    A large display of golden leaf-shaped tags hanging from a rack, each inscribed with messages in blue ink, symbolizing wishes or prayers.
    A golden statue of a figure holding a staff, surrounded by lush greenery and flowers, with a rock displaying '344 STEPS' in bold yellow letters.
    A close-up view of a golden stupa topped with a tall spire, accompanied by a statue of a goddess in blue and decorative offerings at the base.
    Geoff is still at it!
    Bells, bell, bells!
    Golden hearts with messages, representing the shape of the leaves of the bodhi tree, the most sacred tree in Thailand

    We did a fair bit of walking, Bangkok is great around the old part and the old streets. It really takes you back in time and it is such a contrast to the new skyscrapers, shopping malls, huge advertising billboards, concrete skytrain….

    A street scene in Thailand featuring old buildings with vibrant red lanterns and parked scooters in front, surrounded by visible power lines.
    Benjakitti Forest Park – 72 acres!

    In September, we added another cat to our family. Sadly, Sherlock Holmes went walk about and there was a kitten in need (isn’t there always…). He was too cute and we couldn’t resist!

    A dog and a kitten sitting together on a couch, surrounded by decorative pillows.

    Monsoon season starts around end of April and as expected it brings rain and big storms. 2022 was a particularly fierce year for rain. Phuket and other parts of Thailand suffered the worst floods in 30 years. Never seen so much water in my life! It was horrendous, mudslides, floods, roads collapsing… No idea how only 1 person died. There are obviously many photos but these document some of my drives home. There were various floods over a period of a few weeks, so it came and went but the rain seemed to go on forever, months and months.

    Our road
    Our pool, we flooded 3 times, once it came into the house, then we got sandbags!

    We had a glimpse of sunshine and ran to the beach for a sunset, it was not to last but it was a ray of hope followed by another trip to Bangkok.

    Bang Tao beach
    Jack’s Bar
    Bangkok sunset

    Bangkok walkabout around the Portuguese and French Embassies. I just love walking around the old streets, away from the concrete jungle and shopping madness.

    View of a traditional wooden house in a bustling urban environment, showing a mix of old architecture and modern buildings in the background, with cluttered street scenes and a parked car.
    France meets Thailand at the French Embassy in Bangkok
    The river was so full from the floods!
    A mural featuring a black cat peeking from the left side and a hand pointing at the word 'OUT' on a blue background, alongside a gray cat walking on a wall.
    Colorful temple structure with intricate carvings, surrounded by greenery and festive decorations. Two people stand in front, examining the temple's entrance.
    Hindu Temple, Bangkok

    Great area for walking about, some good vegetarian Indian eateries and shops and a beautiful temple, always full of life, colour and smells.

    All handmade out of fresh flowers! So beautiful.
    Christmas lights! Some quite odd ones…. Bangkok goes crazy with Xmas, so many lights everywhere and massive trees.

    And it was time to fly off to Portugal for Christmas! Had not been there for Christmas for over 20 years, we were so excited to be spending it with family. Even better to be together with Mazzie, Joshua and Sandra. I really don’t like the long plane journey and the jet lag but it was worth it. We had a lovely airbnb with lots of space and plenty of places to walk to.

    Lots of Father Xmas on bikes in Lisbon, no idea…

    We had a fabulous Xmas at Leonor’s house followed by another at brother Jorge’s house! So much amazing food and wonderful to be with family. I’d forgotten how much food is eaten in Portugal. Leonor’s Xmas was a feast followed by one at brother Jorge’s house where we had over 12 desserts. This was after eating various starters and main courses! Oh, and a massive Bolo Rei.

    Bolo Rei
    Brother Ze Pedro e Dulce

    Pre Xmas sunset in Sesimbra! Sesimbra is usually packed in the summer so it was really weird to see it deserted and shut. We struggled to find a cafe to warm ourselves up with a hot drink. The sunset was beautiful and the walk along the beachfront blew the cobwebs away,

    We spent an afternoon at the Botanic Gardens in Belem. Peaceful and quiet, met a cat, plenty of birds and wandered about watching peacocks…

    We love Lisbon! Our plane was cancelled so get got a bonus day and night to potter around and have another drink with brother Jorge. What a treat. Saw the Xmas lights and watched the sun set over the bridge.It truly is a beautiful city.

    The oldest cathedral in Lisbon
    Sunset over the Tagus River in Lisbon, with clouds in the sky and lights reflecting on the water.

    Off to England to see friends and family. We stayed in Brighton and just chilled ; literally as it was quite cold although not as bad as we expected. Lisbon was quite balmy and we didn’t even wear coats but the UK was windy and drizzly. We didn’t do much and tended to stay in and snuggle.

    I have only one photo of Anne and Grammy! Can’t believe there are no others. Very poor show… Maybe the cold froze my fingers and sadly there are no photos to show.

    And so, 2022 draws to a close. A year of ups and downs! Marianne left home to go to uni, my illness flared up again, we decided to move, had two amazing trips to Europe to spend time with family and friends. Lost one cat, got another cat, had many trips to Bangkok, witnessed some awful floods, and so it goes on… We are grateful for our friends and family and for the experiences we continue to have. A new chapter awaits and with it some different blogs and scenery. Let’s hope 2023 brings everyone lots of joy and happiness. Miss you all!

  • Family Adventures in Europe: A Journey to Lisbon and Beyond

    It has been a while…. Not sure, not had the inspiration to write… A lot has been happening and time flies. Marianne left for uni in the UK in August, we went to Europe for the first time in 3 years, we decided to move on and have been job hunting.

    First stop Lisbon in the Summer. What a beautiful city and country, I never tire of it. We had not seen anybody for so long, it was amazing to make connections again and to feel part of something. Living so far away, with such a different lifestyle, it can be easy to feel a loss of connection with those we are close to. Covid further created

    Castelo de São Jorge, Sintra
    Lisboa
    Brother Jorge!
    Group of five people posing together outdoors with a large tree in the background, smiling and enjoying a sunny day.
    Discoveries monument, Lisbon
    A young woman and a young man posing together with a scenic view of the ocean and a bridge in the background.
    At the top!
    Yay, Joshie and Sandra have arrived!
    Recycled art at the Oceanarium
    At the castle, on top of the world!
    Group of five people posing together outdoors with a scenic view of a castle in the background.
    Expo site cable cars
    View of the waterfront in Lisbon, Portugal, featuring the river, a bridge in the background, and people enjoying the sunny day along the promenade.
    Riverside in Lisbon
    Guincho
    Just love jellyfish!

    Sadly we all got Covid during our stay in Portugal! Just before, we had a fabulous family reunion in a beautiful area in Minde. Thank you Leonor for organising this.

    Glacial river! After the warm water in Thailand, this was way too cold for us.
    A person sitting on a white horse wearing a helmet, holding a phone, with a background of rural buildings.
    Wherever we go, Maz finds a horse to ride!
    And Sandra finds cats…

    There was one thing I have wanted to do for years, to walk the Passadiços do Paiva, 8 km of steep wooden walkways along the bank of the Paiva River with scenic views. Provides a walk “untouched”, surrounded by unique beauty of landscapes, in an authentic natural sanctuary with waterfalls and rivers. The route extends from the river beaches of Areinho and Espiunca, lying between them, the Vau beach. A journey through biology, geology and archeology. Sadly, between having Covid and one of the hottest summers in history, we were not able to do this walk as it was closed due to the danger of fires. Instead, we chilled in our own schist village in Arouca. Very isolated and raw natural beauty!

    Room with a view
    A stone pathway bordered by lush greenery and hydrangea flowers, with a painted figure holding a guitar and a directional sign visible in the background.
    We had a river close to the house, not cold at all.

    I had not been to Coimbra before and I absolutely loved it! What a beautiful city steeped in history. I could easily have spent more time there. We visited the old university, of course.  It was the first Portuguese university in 1290 in Lisbon and relocated to Coimbra in 1308, making it the oldest academic institution in the Portuguese-speaking world. Its historical buildings were classified as a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 2013. The library, built in 1717 is simply stunning and considered one of the most beautiful in the world. You are not allowed to photograph inside so these are not my photos. Oh, and the books are protected from insects by a colony of bats!

    The library!

    We visited the Cabinet of Curiosities in the Science Museum of the university. These cabinets were popular in 17th century onwards and were mainly created by the European nobility, who tried to gather in these rooms a set of objects, such as exotic pieces, in an attempt to recreate the work of God. The aim of these cabinets was to display rare, exotic and even bizarre objects, so as to amaze the visitor and simultaneously show the cosmopolitan vision of their owner.

    A dimly lit cabinet of curiosities in a science museum featuring shelves filled with various specimens, fossils, and artifacts illuminated with purple lighting.
    Cabinet of curiosities
    Historic university building with a clock tower and architectural details under a clear blue sky.
    The main square
    Facade of a historic building in Coimbra, Portugal, featuring classical architecture with decorative elements and a central entrance.

    The rest of the city was great for walking and we did some exploring although by this stage we were all pretty sick and spent the next two days in the hotel recovering.

    A narrow cobblestone alleyway lined with lush green plants and flowers, flanked by weathered whitewashed buildings under a clear blue sky.
    Bordalo graffiti in Coimbra
    A large mural depicting two faces with beards, surrounded by geometric patterns in shades of gray and red, located on a building wall.
    A bustling street in a picturesque city with colorful buildings, featuring people walking and shops along the sides. Decorative elements hang overhead, and a clear blue sky is visible.
    Street view of colorful historic buildings in Lisbon, Portugal, showcasing intricate architectural details and people walking along the sidewalk.

    It was time to leave and visit out friends and family in the UK where the weather was also fabulous. Don’t you just love the British seaside… and Brighton! Here are some typical seaside scenes, you wouldn’t expect this in such a trendy city but there you go.

    A colorful carousel on the beach under a clear blue sky, with the ocean in the background.
    A sign for a shellfish specialty shop with the text 'Shellfish Specialities' and 'Sea Haze' offering a selection of shellfish including cockles, whelks, mussels, prawns, and jellied eels, with a view of the sea in the background.
    A sunny day at Brighton beach with people relaxing on the pebbles, striped deck chairs set up, and a view of the iconic old pier in the distance.
    An older man with a white beard is resting inside a hollowed-out fishing boat, which is mounted against a brick wall with scaffolding. A sign for the Brighton Fishing Museum is visible nearby.

    As we were in Brighton we decided to go up on the i360, a 162 m moving observation tower with, as the name suggests, 360 degree views! Fabulous, highly recommend it.

    Duke of York’s cinema, Brighton

    We spent some time exploring London with Mazzie, Camden Market was her fave place. We found Peaky Blinders over there!

    We couldn’t even remember the last time we saw each other! So, so long ago… We had a great time in Portsmouth, pottering about like tourists. We went up the Spinaker Tower, what a view at 170 meters high with a glass platform, not for the faint hearted.

    A panoramic view of a marina with several sailboats moored in the water, alongside a town and lush green landscape under a partly cloudy sky.
    View from the glass viewing platform of the i360 observation tower in Brighton, showing the ground and marina below.

    Back to Brighton once again and it is time for Pride 2022! The city is full of colour and rainbows, such a happy, carefree atmosphere.

    It is always a pleasure to spend an afternoon in Lewes, wandering around the old lanes, sitting in the cafes and what a wonderful summer of sunshine to do this in.

    Anne and Grammy kindly let us stay in their beautiful house. We were very lucky to also look after Sam who is a truly lovely doggo. Mazzie and I enjoyed taking him for walks up on the hills, beautiful views and sense of freedom up there.

    A dog walking along a gravel path in a grassy landscape, with the sea in the background under a clear blue sky.
    Brighton grafitti
    Fancy finding Pickard here…

    And it was nearly time to go back home. Time to leave Mazzie who went on to America to work at a stables in North Carolina. It was so hard to say goodbye… Before she left, we went to Barcombe Mills for a swim but it was full of algae and not safe for swimming.

    Thailand here I come! Another school year about to start and time to start job hunting for our next adventure.

  • It is nearly the holidays…

    Nearly the end of another school year and nearly time for our summer hols. After 3 years, we are going to Portugal and the UK. Can’t wait…

    In February, we visited the Surin Islands. Surin Islands are an archipelago of five islands within Mu Ko Surin National Park, in Phang Nga Province. The islands are 55 km off the coast, 100 km north from Similan Islands in the Andaman Sea and just 18 km from the oceanic border of Burma

    Popular for its coral gardens and white beaches, Surin Islands are one of the most famous diving and marine life viewing sites in Thailand. It is a very untouched area with only a Moken village and national park buildings where you can stay as well as a few tents. It is probably one of the most beautiful places we have been to.

    On the way there we had some pretty heavy rain!

    Green swamp
    Mangroves

    Our tent, could have stayed there for a few more days.

    The only way to get around!

    Fishing boats
    Khao Lak on the way back to Phuket. By Memories Beach Bar.
    Bang Tao beach, our stomping ground.
    Misty doggo
    Stuff you find on the beach….

    In April, we went island hopping in Koh Mook, Lipe and Kradan. Yes, I know, it seems like our life is one long holiday but we do work in between! Mook is less touristy than some other islands and with Covid, it has been decimated. It was quiet, many places were closed and it had a feeling of being derelict but I loved it! There is a great, little bakery in town, she makes delicious banoffe pie for 25 baht.

    Main street in Koh Mook
    Local barber shop
    Local houses
    Maybe at some point…

    Someone’s kitchen

    So many starfish!

    Goodbye Mook, hello Lipe! Quite touristy but it grew on us, eventually. Met some friends from Bangkok, did some diving and stayed at Castaway Resort which also has a dive centre. Nice place with a decent restaurant.

    Zodiac Bar in Lipe. Best music and fire show.
    Wherever you go, the fireboys will follow….
    Yay, it’s dive time! First time diving off a longtail, have to go in backwards.
    Dive site, not so clear further down

    And now for a spot of kayaking!
    To a small island….
    Love jellies!

    From Lipe to Kradan. A very small island with no roads, no shops, nothing really. Very beautiful and unspoilt. We stayed at Kalume. A beautiful eco resort run by an Italian couple. Delicious food and it felt like home, very cosy and a happy place

    Phuket Town is just on our doorstep and is a place we go to for a little slice of small city life. There are many good cafes and local restaurants and it is seeped in history. There are many sino-Portuguese buildings and a great market on Sundays. Our favourite is China House for lunch!

    Old Chinese shop/home, now one of our favourite places for lunch.

    Final dive of the season at Koh Weo, a tiny island off Bang Tao beach and Tin Lizzy Wreck (a tin mining excavator). It was surprisingly good and clear. We had been there before with very poor visibility which was disappointing. We were lucky to go with a lovely couple from Argentina we had met in Lipe.

    Our chilled captain!

    It has been a very long school term but we were lucky to have a long weekend halfway through which we spent in Chinatown in Bangkok. It is such an amazing area, full of history, alleyways, markets, stalls and food. An assault on the senses. It was also a great excuse to meet up with Sarah and Mick. We stayed at the Shanghai Mansion. Beautiful hotel and a huge room right in the heart of Chinatown.

    Durian
    Fried fish
    Dates
    Dried squid
    Dried prawns
    Need anything?
    Durian
    Mango

    Who lives here?
    Mama Restaurant, one of the best Indian restaurants I’ve been to.

    Alleyway reggae bar

    Chinatown at night really comes alive! It is manic, noisy and full of food stalls.

    Moody skies over Bangkok from the plane
    Last sunset before we leave for Portugal and England

    It has been a difficult year with Covid and we are fortunate to be able to go to islands and relax. Many lockdowns, school closures, not being able to leave Thailand and missing friends and families has been hard. We are grateful to live in such a beautiful place and have the opportunity to explore this amazing country. See you back in August!

  • Here’s to another year in Thailand!

    What better way to start the year than to go on an adventure? Dropping Joshua and Sandra off at the airport was sad and the idea of going back home was horrid. So, we dropped them and kept driving north to Ranong. Ranong is a small border town, not a lot to do, sleepy but pleasant for a night; before Covid, most people came here for a visa run to Myanmar. The food was good though and we had an amazing breakfast! Before Ranong, we stopped at Memories Bar in Koh Lak. Nice little place, surfers paradise and a perfect spot for a weekend getaway from Phuket.

    And to Ranong! Geoff found us some street art… A very old barber’s shop and a cat.

    Good public transport, these are everywhere!

    Strange things do happen and the world can at times feel like a very small place. After stopping for petrol and bumping into someone I used to work with in Bangkok, we then bumped into somebody else we used to know, from Geoff’s school in Bangkok. Jon L! We had a really good catch up with Jon and Pat and it turned out that they were staying in the same hotel and in the room next to ours!!! Go figure… We had an amazing Thai breakfast, the best Thai breakfast I’ve had in Thailand before getting on a boat to Koh Phayam.

    Koh Phayam is a very small island, about 45.00 km2, it has no roads and no cars and the population is around 500 people. It is unspoiled and rustic and some places still have no electricity. It is a hippy, rasta kind of island and a great place to chill. There are 2 main beaches on the island, Ao Yai and Ao Kao Kwai (Buffalo Bay). Both are very beautiful and at the moment, extremely quiet and unspoiled.

    Ranong Pier
    Leaving Ranong through the mangroves
    The island is full of hornbills!
    Yummy table
    Those paws….
    Happy belly rubs
    Long beach
    Tokay gecko – never seen such a huge one!
    Long beach

    There is so much space on this beach! A lot of places were closed due to Covid and the sense of space and freedom was just amazing. Although it is now becoming more developed, the island is still very rustic with no frills. There are a few places to eat and some cafes dotted around the island but all are pretty basic. No chance of getting a decaf here. Came across a wonderful little Japanese bakery by Bamboo Bungalows on long beach. She makes beautiful bread, cakes and sandwiches. If you ever visit, go there. It was our favourite place!

    This is the weirdest sand ever. It sounds like snow! It is so loud when you walk on it…

    There is only one temple on the island and it is at the end of a small pier which is rather unusual.

    The next place to visit was Buffalo Bay. One end was not particularly nice but the end where the Hippy Bar is, is particularly beautiful. I am being fussy now…

    One of the highlights of being in Phayam was watching the sunset from the Hippy Bar. This is a really crazy and amazing reclaimed wooden construction that goes on for ever. The bit you see on the beach is like a pirate ship jutting out but as you walk inside it goes on to all sorts of nooks and crannies, walkways and lounging areas. Incredible!


    And another really lovely bar, precariously build on the side of the cliff which has beautiful views. I really have no idea how they build this stuff or how safe it is…

    We read about a beach in the north that was quite hard to get to! If you don’t want to meet people, go to Ao Kwangpeep, also called Monkey Bay – a tiny little beach at the northernmost point. However, to get there is not easy and not completely harmless either. With Geoff’s riding skills this was a walk in the park although I was pretty scared! The road starts off well tarred, until one thing is clear: this is no longer a road but a steep descent with plenty of massive holes! It was worth it though, the beach was deserted and the only place to stay is now fully derelict and abandoned due to Covid. The view to Koh Chang and Myanmar is beautiful!

    A video of the best kept part of the road

    And so our visit to Koh Phayam comes to an end. A truly beautiful island, unspoilt and still rustic. On the way back, we stopped at Little Amazon in Takuapa. It is is a small stretch of mangrove forest in Phang Nga Province. The Sang Ne Canal has massive banyan trees with intricate root systems that create archways over the small waterway. There is plenty of wildlife but try to get a guide that speaks some English as we had no clue what ours was telling us! We saw a few birds, a couple of snakes and lots of monkeys, pretty beautiful spot!
     
    A video with the monkeys!

    Oh, I nearly forgot. The tiniest ever praying mantis.

  • An end to 2021 in Thailand….

    It has now been 5 years and 6 months since we set foot in Thailand. I had never really thought about visiting Asia, apart from India so ending up in Thailand was not on the cards but life has its twists and turns… We are at a crossroads at the moment; reevaluating our life, options, needs and wants. Having choices is great and we are fortunate to be in this position but it also brings confusion and leads to difficult decisions having to be made. In the meantime, we are enjoying our time here, getting on with work and continuing to explore as much as we can during these Covid times. We are in the middle of a fifth wave and it feels as if everyone has had enough now. It seems the government is trying to keep things open and make Covid endemic this year. Let’s see…

    October and it’s Halloween. Not a lot going on but some funky decorations and Marianne and Blaze looking cool! I tried to scare the kids at school

    The much awaited December finally arrived with Joshua and Sandra visiting. After 2.5 years, it was a very exciting reunion! December also marked the end of the Monsoon. After 6 months of rain, some of it of biblical proportions, seeing blue skies and calm seas is good for the soul.

    Sherlock Holmes looking beautiful!
    I think he wants to be gifted to someone….
    New beach bar
    First day of beach after the rains
    Toilet in Bangkok
    Xmas tree in Bangkok
    Bangkok views

    The wait is finally over. We all went to Bangkok to collect Joshua and Sandra and spent a few days exploring with Marianne and Blaze. Never been to a games cafe before but highly recommend it. Such fun and so many games!!

    Went to a festival of lights which included a river trip to see some of the lights around Bangkok. Some unusual installations…..

    Wat Arun at night – Temple of Dawn
    Rama 9 bridge
    Blaze enjoying a spot of relaxation!

    Back to Phuket to a Xmas full of cheer. It was the first Xmas where we have all been together with partners. Very exciting to see the kids growing up into adults and enjoying their independence. Thank you to the friends who joined us and made it a fun and memorable day.

    And so the adventure begins. On to Khao Sok National Park – it is covered by the oldest evergreen rainforest in the world, huge limestone mountains shooting straight up in the air, deep valleys and breathtaking lakes. We decided to go on a stroll which ended up taking forever but managed to get to a river for a cool swim. We thought it would be a leisurely stroll through the jungle, 3kms, they said, each way. It is indeed a beautiful forest, may types of trees, monkeys, plants… It all looked even better once we managed to get back to the car and rest.

    Walk through the jungle video
    View from our room
    Our little cabin in the woods
    Cheeky monkeys
    Hold up, way too close!
    Female stag beetle
    Father and son having a splash
    Sandra opted for quiet reading
    Our hotel
    Bridge Hill, an instagram’s delight, apparently!
    Where is he going?

    We stayed one night at Cheow Lan Lake, an 185-square-kilometre artificial lake. The lake is only a few decades old but the area is ancient. Khao Sok National Park outdates even the Amazon rainforest, with scientists estimating its creation at approximately 160 million years ago. The cliffs in this area are thought to have been created at the same time as the Himalayas, when 50 million years ago the Eurasian and Indian tectonic plates collided, forcing the rock upwards. It is an incredibly beautiful scenery with limestone cliffs jutting out of the emerald water. So much fun for swimming and kayaking! Shame is was cloudy but still beautiful.

    Aerial photo of the lake
    Our place for the night
    Not a bad view
    Maz and Blaze!

    And New Year came and went… Let’s hope 2022 brings joy and happiness to us all and hopefully less Covid. Time for one more picturesque trip before Joshua and Sandra head back to chilly Edinburgh. Coral Island or Koh Hae is very close to Phuket and easy to get to for the day. It has beautiful, clear, blue water and a coral reef which is just off the beach. Plenty of fish to see!

    Aerial view of Banana Beach – Koh Hae
    Oriental pied hornbill
    Oriental pied hornbill

    And the visit comes to an end! See you in Summer.

  • Beach and Mountains – Thailand

    Things you see around Phuket and in our house…

    No idea how they do that but it is beautiful

    Bang Tao Beach

    Some woman just started climbing the rope and up, up she went.
    Water on lotus leaves, Geoff says it’s physics!
    Banana beach
    Bang Tao beach
    Mobile shop
    Beach Pig Bar – Bang Tao beach
    Water buffalo
    Frida Kahlo – our new addition

    Life goes on, Covid goes on… We are just coming out of another outbreak and it seems like Thailand has finally decided that we just need to get on with it now. See what happens as only 39% of the population is vaccinated. I think we are all fed up with this and just want to get on with our lives. It has been tough not being able to go home, not seeing friends and family and being “stuck” in Phuket. Yes, I know, it is beautiful, but we feel a little claustrophobic now. We did a quick trip to Bangkok and went in search of graffiti. This is what we found in Charlerma Park in Ratchathewi. https://thesmartlocal.com/thailand/bangkok-graffiti-park/

    I had a willing model to help me bring the art to life. I heard that things get covered over and over so I am sure next time we go, it will look different.

    Houses by the canal
    Bangkok!

    It really has been a very quiet time over here in Phuket. Even though tourists have been trickling in, the island is still pretty empty and places continue to be closed. There is little to do apart from eating out and going to the beach which is not bad considering we are in the middle of a pandemic. We did manage to leave the island last week and went up north to Chiang Mai and Pai. The road to Pai goes through the mountains and there are 762 bends which I thoroughly enjoyed – most of them hairpin and switchback. Apparently it was built by the Japanese during the 2nd World War.

    I did not take this but it gives you an idea….

    Pai is a small town near the Myanmar border. Largely unheard of, it became a hippy, backpacker destination and is now full of cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops. I kind of liked it and didn’t like it! It was quiet which helped but I am not sure if I would have enjoyed a small town full of backpackers. The countryside around it is magnificent though so go there, get out of town for the day and come back in the evening for food and music.

    View from our room
    Evening band, they were really good!

    Pai Canyon or Kong Lan in Thai is described in some tourist brochures as Thailand’s answer to the Grand Canyon. To say that’s stretching a point would be putting it mildly. Pai Canyon’s geological and topographic features are quite stunning. This unique geographical area has been formed by continuous erosion over decades until reaching the current condition. The carved narrow ledges and slabs that have survived the erosive actions of the elements have steep 30 meters deep cliff drops and a series of narrow walkways cut on the ridges of giant rock walls that snake out into the densely forested valley. I found it a little scary so did not venture far. Very slippery and too steep for my liking!

    The Bamboo Bridge near Pai (also known as Boon Ko Ku So) is an 1 km long bridge that stretches over a field of lush rice fields and leads to a bamboo temple. The wonderfully springy trail takes you over bright green rice paddies. The name Kho Ku So translates into ‘The Bridge of Merit’. Originally built for the monks at the bamboo temple by the locals. Before the bridge, the monks had to walk over 6 km to reach the village to obtain food. The journey took them a long time as the path lead through forest and the rice fields. In order to make the journey shorter the bridge was built. Now the monks no longer have to avoid stumbling through the rice plantations as they can stroll over the lovely fields via the Kho Ku So. It was truly beautiful, especially as there were no people! I think you are getting the idea that empty is best.  

    Just passing on the road…

    On the way to Pai, we stopped at Pong Dueat in is the biggest geyser hot spring in Thailand. It is located in a national park called Huai Nam Dang. The temperature of the water in the geyser can go up to 150 degrees celsius. The water springs 2 metres high every 30 seconds although we did not see it go so high when we were there. The circular walk is very beautiful and about 1.5kms. Again, we seemed to be the only people there.

    Chiang Mai has 117 Buddhist temples. Wat Chiang Man was built by Mangrai in 1297 CE as the first temple of Chiang Mai. It gives you an idea of how old they are. This time, we visited Wat Chedi Luang, its construction started in the 14th century and was finished in the mid-15th century. It is home to Chiang Mai’s largest Buddhist chedi – 98 meters tall and 54 meters in diameter.

    Chiang Mai
    Chedi
    Chedi
    At the top of the chedi
    Sadly true!
    On the streets of Chiang Mai

    From Chiang Mai, we went to Doi Suthep temple. A Thai saying goes, “If you haven’t tasted Khao Soi or seen the view from Doi Suthep, you haven’t been to Chiang Mai.” This regal mountain overlooks the city from the northwest, with beautiful views from its summit. Aside from its dominating presence on the horizon, Doi Suthep is the home of some of the most deeply loved symbols in Thailand. The highest peak in the park is Doi Pui which tops off at 1,685 meters (5,528 feet), making it the eighth largest mountain in Thailand. he main reason many visitors come to Doi Suthep National Park is to visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a venerable and venerated temple that is one of the most holy Buddhist sites in Thailand. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is a major pilgrimage destination, especially during the Buddhist holidays of Makha Bucha and Visakha Bucha (February 13 and May 11). Beware, there are 309 steps to climb – there is a tram which we said no to before realising how many steps there were!

    We stopped off at a Karen/Kayan village which is meant to be for tourists. Not the sort of thing we would normally go to but as there were no tourists about, we thought we would stop for a coffee and buy something to help them out. This is one of several privately owned ethnic villages in northern Thailand that are home to migrants from the Karenni or Red Karen hill tribe in Myanmar’s Kayah State, formerly known as Karenni State. The village was a popular tourist attraction, with visitors queuing to see the elongated, brass-ringed necks of the Red Karen women but now there are no tourists and they are struggling.

    From the age of five or six, girls begin winding a series of heavy brass coils around their necks to give them an elongated appearance. The coils, weighing up to four or five kilograms by the time a woman reaches adulthood, push down on their collarbones and compress their ribcages. The women say that it is for beautification and that it gives a sense of cultural identity. Some say this is a cruel practice and it is mysoginistic, personally, I don’t like it but it is not clear cut. Contrary to popular belief, the women do not die if they remove their neck rings. It is reported that they feel uncomfortable for a period after removing the rings, until their body adjusts to not having them.

    As the Kayan Long Neck tribe are not native to Thailand, but are refugees here, seeking refuge from persecution in Myanmar, no natural or authentic Kayan villages exist in Thailand. The Kayan Long Neck that live in Thailand reside in refugee camps and have refugee status. This means that they have limited access to education, medical care, employment and that their movement is restricted. So, do we want to promote these villages? What do the Karen want? They want tourists as it is their way of making some money but for us it can seem like a human zoo.

    Arrow shooting near Chiang Mai

    Cape Panwa beach in Phuket and the old Sino Portuguese house on the grounds of the Cape Panwa Hotel

    That’s all for now. Enjoy the photos and I’ll see you all after Xmas!

  • The adventure continues…..

    Here we are in the middle of another outbreak! From Thailand doing really well to having a surge in cases that is growing day by day. The vaccination is slow, only 5% of the population has been vaccinated, mostly with Sinovac which is not effective against the Delta variant. There is a sense of when will this end, it just goes on and on…. Anyway, we are again in a place of not knowing. When will schools open, will they open. When can we travel to see friends and family?

    We decided to stay put once again this Summer and spent 2 weeks in Kho Phanghan and Kho Tao to get away from the Monsoon in Phuket. Kho Phanghan was incredibly restful and quiet and it was a truly relaxing break. We stayed at Haad Salad and went over to Kho Tao for a couple of days – beautiful water and snorkelling over there. We were meant to dive but Geoff perforated his ear diving at Sail Rock and I am not well enough to dive so snorkelling it was.

    Recently, I had a Ulcerative Colitis flare up which left me in hospital for 2 weeks and it really got me physically and emotionally. I have been quite blazé about this illness but it is now time to take it more seriously and start learning to live with it. It is not going away and I have been reading and learning more about it and trying to connect with others who are going through the same. I have been through so many emotions, anger, despair, depression, anxiety, fear, denial… It feels so unfair but life is random and shit happens. It feels as if my life has changed although in many ways it is still the same. So, any support is greatly appreciated!

    In the meantime, life goes on. I got offered a full time school counselling position here in Phuket and have left my job in Bangkok. I have also closed my private practice so that I can dedicate myself to the school. Not an easy decision as my practice was doing really well but doing both is just too much. I can now stop travelling to Bangkok every week and just be based in Phuket which I am looking forward to.

    I always tend to feel that I am not doing enough, not sure what that is about… We fostered that most adorable kittens which needed feeding every 3 hours and got them onto solids so that they could be adopted. It was ridiculously tiring but amazing to know that we gave these tiny creatures a chance at life. Here they are in all their cuteness:

    Here are some sunsets – we get a lot of those over here, keeps us busy in the evenings as there is not much else to do and some random beach finds. Life is pretty quiet here in Phuket. Most places are closed as there are no tourists to keep businesses open. Some areas are like ghost towns, completely deserted. The economic impact has been horrendous for the local people; we, the expats, are the privileged ones with jobs and money and there is a lot of charity work on the island to help people feed themselves and help them survive through this crisis. In the first six months of 2020 amid the first wave of the pandemic, Thailand’s suicide rate rose by 22% and it continues to rise. There is very little mental health support and it is not something that is spoken about. Let’s hope that things are looking up next time I post my next blog!

    If anyone would like to make a donation to One Phuket, here is the link to the Facebook page with details on the initiative and how to make a transfer. Any amount will help to feel people who are struggling without jobs of government assistance. One Phuket.

    Oh, and some really massive lotus that you can stand on.

    Another amazing thing that happened! Marianne graduated and has now finished school. She has a place at the Royal Vet College in London to do a Vet Nursing degree. Very happy for her. She is taking a year out and staying put in Phuket with Blaze until they work out what to do next year.

    For those who are Breaking Bad fans, look what I found… It appears to be closed, maybe they were raided!

    In April, we spent 3 days on a boat, diving in the Similan Islands. It was stunningly beautiful and really relaxing. We were not sure if we would get bored being on a boat and diving everyday but we didn’t and are looking forward to doing another liveaboard at Christmas. We were lucky to have had a professional photographer on board – she took the most beautiful pictures. Thank you Allie Vautin!

    Some photos of the Similans and the view from our little cabin…

    During my weekly stays in Bangkok, I did some exploring. This is in Chinatown in the evening when it comes to life with food stalls and people coming to eat outside.

    Not much else to report… Life goes on, we hope for a better year ahead, being able to see family and friends and being healthy. In the meantime, here are a few more photos. Until next time, stay safe and well.

  • Another year in Thailand…

    Last time I wrote, we were in lockdown. Thailand has managed to control the spread of the virus with strict measures; a combination of government action, social responsibility and community solidarity. It is a striking difference from our more individualistic culture where it is all about our rights, our needs, our wants, what we deserve… People are kind and thoughtful here on the whole, except when you put them behind a wheel! There is a strong sense of community in Phuket and with the impact of the loss of tourism, there has been a community effort to help those who are struggling to even find food to eat.

    However, as I write this, cases are once again going up (albeit in smallish numbers compared to other countries) created by a small influx of migrants which have entered the country illegally and also spread by illegal gambling dens. As of January 3rd, we have 294 new cases around the country.

    The impact Covid has had on tourism can be seen on the islands. Although Bangkok still remains relatively busy, there are shops closed and emptier streets in some areas. Phuket has been hit very hard and some areas remain deserted, without tourists there is no life here. Last year, foreign tourist nearly hit 40 million but now 93% of customers are Thai. Businesses and hotels have shut down, some forever. Last I read, about 3 months ago, 70% of businesses in Phuket had closed. This video of the busiest beach in Phuket really highlights the current situation in Phuket: https://youtu.be/YVeBOy9j2kA.

    We feel very fortunate to be here during this period! We feel safe, we have freedom within Thailand and great healthcare. The downside is that we are cut off from family and friends abroad and that has not been easy. We hope that we can travel and reconnect with friends and family this coming Summer. In the meantime, we amuse ourselves here. Wildlife is coming back as there are not many people about.

    • Marianne’s coconut creation
    • Monitor lizards are about….
    • Our pool friend
    • Herding cows with a motorbike

    Must not forget the snake hiding in the shoes! Harmless radiated rat snake – non venomous.

    We could not go out of Thailand in Summer so we went to Kho Samui for a few days. Samui is a lovely small island, I say small but it is the second largest island in Thailand. It has some beautiful waterfalls which are good for swimming and as in the rest of the country, places are semi deserted.

    The rest of the time was spent pottering about in Phuket and Bangkok.

    Bangkok in July is hot and sticky with bits of rain in between. Shopping and eating is the main thing to keep you occupied. Goldie (yes, Goldie, who remembers him!) lives in Phuket, of all places and has opened an art gallery in Bangkok – https://aurum.gallery/. Aurum Gallery is a contemporary, urban and street art gallery.

    The only street food stall in the world with 1 Michelin star! She is 74 years old.
    Chef Jay Fai wears a wool cap and safety goggles to ward off the heat from the charcoal fires in the alley where she cooks all of the restaurant’s meals. She is such a perfectionist that she doesn’t let anyone on her staff do the cooking.
    Mall in Bangkok, quite random…
    Vhils is the tag name of Portuguese graffiti and street artist Alexandre Manuel Dias Farto. This piece of art is on the wall of the Portuguese Embassy in Bangkok.

    After our Bangkok stay, we came back to Phuket.

    • Delico Cafe
    • You get pretty drinks here!
    • Monkey Hill
    • Phuket Cafe
    • Flying into Phuket
    • Monsoon is coming!
    • Scary monkeys!
    • Driving during monsoon

    We have had quite a long monsoon this year as La Nina is also in force!

    Phuket views
    Bang Tao beach
    Geoff in a giant cup!
    • Our local beach bar
    • Sunny days
    • Monsoon beach!

    We also visited Kho Yao Yay, a small island not far from Phuket. Geoff enjoyed having his own pool party and I did my “look, I can walk on water” trick!

    And it is Christmas! It is so hard not to be able to see family and friends and Xmas makes us more aware of this. Luckily, our friends from Bangkok came over for a couple of weeks and we had a lovely time connecting with people we are close to. Hooray for friends!!

    We also went to Bangkok as they go overboard with Xmas, always fun to see all the decorations and lights around the city.

    Also saw more graffiti, love it!
    Lights festival, lots of light installations around old Bangkok
    Alex Face

    Covid has had and continues to have such an impact on our community here in Phuket. Places have been deserted and look apocalyptic and people are struggling to feed themselves. We feel so lucky and so grateful to be here, in this lovely house on a beautiful island. The animals are returning, the beaches are clean, the water is clear… It is hard to say how happy we are when we know how hard this is for some. As usual, it is the poor that suffer the most, the inequalities are more evident during this pandemic. There is a strong sense of community here and of helping each other rather than trying to step on each other.

    I got a new tattoo, with the island closed off, prices were slashed to 50% so good time to get inked. Geoff had a traditional one with bamboo, the guy was so fast, amazing to watch.

    This is what Bangkok looks like from 76 floors up! The Mahanakhon Skywalk is a rather impressive building. It looks like a block of jenga with bits missing. On the top floor there is a glass platform, you can walk on it and look down at Bangkok. A little scary at first but I trust the engineers and the builders did a proper job… The lift is incredibly fast, it takes 50 seconds to reach the 74th floor. All in all, the tower is 314 metres, the tallest in Bangkok. You can see the glass platform in the picture below.

    On our return, we went back to this amazing viewpoint; Samet Nangshe in Phang Nga Bay. The light was different from our previous visit and it was rather beautiful, you can’t beat nature!

    It is one of the most beautiful views, so serene and tranquil….

    Panorama view

    And now, for some more wildlife in our garden…

    This is a very long blog but I hope you enjoy looking at the photos. I have always loved taking pictures and it is my way of recording experiences – always a pleasure to look back. I started these blogs for the kids so that they would have a record of their life abroad.

    Diving trip to Racha Yay. Beautiful clear water and some interesting fish, many puffer fish and a huge moray eel. Photos aren’t great but it is the best we could get from our dive master. This dive is on a ship wreck so plenty of fish! I have the blue hat on and Geoff is in most of the photos too.

    And we are nearly at an end of 2020! Another year…. All was quiet in Thailand for the past 7 months and now we are in the midst of another Covid wave. Let’s hope this time next year, we have managed to make a dent on this virus.

    New Year on the beach and a learn to sail course which turned out to be one of the most boring things I have done!

    Happy New Year dear friends and family. Let’s hope we can be reunited this year I miss you all.

  • Lockdown in Phuket 2020

    Yesterday, our village, Bang Tao, was finally allowed to roam free once again. After having become the epicentre of the virus on the island, a strict lockdown was enforced in Bang Tao. This was ok until the rest of the island reopened and we remained locked in. Frustrations started to rise and locals gathered at the road block saying they were dissatisfied. As with most things in Thailand, there was no violence and people went back to their lockdown quietly. The road block remained…

    Screenshot 2020-05-17 at 08.46.57

    In January people started wearing masks and taking precautions in Bangkok. The first novel coronavirus infection in Thailand was reported on 13 January 2020, making it the first country outside China to report such infection. Still, it all seemed kind of ok and not really a worry. By February, things were not so good! Masks, hand sanitisers, temperature control. By March, things started to look pretty serious, Thailand recorded the highest jump on 19 March.

    The country was placed under a state of emergency on 26 March which continues to this day. Many regions were placed under lockdown, borders were closed and all foreigners stopped from entering the country. In Phuket, the airport and the bridge were closed; the airport remains closed and the bridge is open for those who want to leave the island to return to their home in other provinces.

    So, how has life been under lockdown? Here are some photos of closed roads.

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    One of the first we came across

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    By our house

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    By our front door

    Screenshot 2020-05-17 at 08.29.10
    Stay off the beach they said!

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    South of Phuket

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    Near our house, first time we came across a closed beach

    Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.48.58

    Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.48.16

    Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.47.36Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.46.52Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.47.15

    Roadblocks became familiar but for us, we were soon to be further locked in as the virus took hold in Bang Tao, our small village. With limited access to anywhere, really, we found ways to amuse ourselves. Luckily, even though beaches are closed all over the island, Bang Tao beach has remained accessible. Perhaps because there is nobody here at all and often the beach is empty, the police do not seem too harsh on the few stragglers that occasionally appear on the beach.

    Moody skies
    Monsoon season has arrived

    IMG_216420200515_11314020200515_11313020200515_11290320200419_16464120200404_11022120200309_18361520200309_184921

    Initially, lockdown was very relaxed, roads were still opened and we could move around. It seemed fine, not much had changed except for less tourists which made it rather more pleasant for us. We took time cycling around the now quiet roads and enjoyed having the place to ourselves.

    IMG_3723
    Found a cashew nut tree

    IMG_2274
    …and some minions!

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    Then the district lockdowns kicked in. Our world became small but it was about to become even smaller as the virus took hold in Bang Tao! We spent most of our time working which kept us sane. We got used to being together 24/7 which did not always keep us so sane. I discovered Honduran Zumba on YouTube and baked and baked. Walks on the beach kept us going and gave us a sense of freedom. We started to imagine that we were in the tiny island of Bang Tao with our own private beach – it worked well. The cats and the dog also took well to the lockdown.

    20200515_15172020200515_15013820200512_14392720200419_08073720200419_14481320200325_153348

    The shops are now slowly reopening, schools are to remain closed and the island remains quiet. Although it is idyllic, we are all too aware that a quiet island means that many people are not making the bare minimum to survive. It has been sobering to see how fragile the economy is here for some people who live on so little already and now simply have nothing.

    The mental health impact has also been notable. I have had more enquiries which are domestic abuse related, people not coping with the kids being home and with home schooling and some finding it hard to face the world once again. We do not talk about this; it is always about how to cope during isolation but what about when we need to return to the “real world”? I, for one, am quite happy in this bubble, I do not look forward to being thrust back out there. This life is more peaceful, more flexible, more relaxed and we have all found that we do not need very much to be ok. A bit like Tanzania all over again, in a way. It is a reminder that we have more than enough and that is enough.

    rtc-capture-id:475f17c3-b9f3-44ed-a739-bd792d1e3138
    The joy of being silly with friends

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    Or alone!

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    Can’t get to the shops, make your own burger buns. I am never buying burger buns again!

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    Managed to get through a road block and have a sneaky ride

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    One way to pass the time. Lotus flowers…

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    More baking

    People moan and they always will but I have been grateful for the way Thailand has handled this crisis. Initially, the response seemed to be slow but once they got going it all kicked into place. We have been well looked after. Temperature checks and hand sanitiser everywhere we go. House visits to check temperature and to deliver food essentials provided by the government. We also have excellent health care and we are not in an overcrowded place, many things to be grateful for.

    Screenshot 2020-05-17 at 08.23.52
    Shopping malls reopened with strict control measures

    Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.50.21
    Roadblock temperature checks

    Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.46.52

    Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.45.10
    Free food pantry 

    Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.44.34
    Government food deliveries

    Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.44.09
    Clean it up!

    Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 12.42.32
    Everyone is doing their bit by wearing masks

    So, if you want some advice on what to watch on Netflix, let me know, I might just be able to help you out with that. Never has Netflix been so busy, did not know there was so much shit you could watch. How would we survive this without tech? Makes me wonder…

     

  • Marooned on a Tropical Island!

    My last blog was in 2019; 2020 was on its way, full of promises, new opportunities and challenges and according to astrologists:

    • 2020 is all set to bring positive changes for all Zodiac signs. Hence, your 2020 will surely be full of positive vibes and happiness. Ok, right…
    • New onsets are always very exciting and astrology 2020 promises that and much more. There are plenty of good times ahead. Yeah, yeah…
    • On the first New Moon of 2020 which will be in Aquarius on 25th of January, the Yellow Earth Pig will finally wag its tail at us and depart handing over the reins of power to the White Metal Rat. Hmmm….

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    So, here we are in the midst of a global pandemic; our worlds turned upside down, wondering how this virus will change the world and the way we live. Where will we be in 3 months, in 6 months, in one year? Nobody knows. Hopefully we will use this crisis to rebuild, produce something better and more humane. But we may slide into something worse. Who knows… I certainly have plenty of time on my hands to mull over my thoughts. Perhaps, a little too much time!

    Life in Phuket is quiet and peaceful. We have food, we have water (well, not in my house at the moment) and we have electricity (for now, at least). The island has now been closed – bridge and ports are only open for very specific cargo. The airport will close in the next few days and beaches, shops, hotels and restaurants are closed but hey, we are marooned on a tropical island. Can’t say that is something that happens everyday.

    On another note, the monkeys are going crazy as they are now not being feed by the thousands of tourists. There have been monkey riots and they are running around attacking everything desperate for food. STOP MESSING WITH ANIMALS!!!

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    Bangkok In January – getting ready!

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    No beach – nooooooo

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    We are armed and dangerous

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    The new reality

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    How one local restaurant feels

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    Everyone is now wearing masks

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    You can even get them for babies!

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    On our quest to go swimming, we finally found an empty beach – sometimes, forbidden fruit is truly wonderful

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    Cat quarantine.

    The worst thing so far has been renewing my visa. Two trips to a crowded, busy, very hot immigration office with plenty of forms and still no success. Hopefully, by the time you read this I will have been able to get it sorted.

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    Before the world came to a standstill, we had some adventures though.

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    “Our beach” at sunset

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    Onto another viewpoint, this time in Phuket, Promthep Cape. Very lucky as it is usually packed but we were pretty much the only people there; maybe because it was so bloody hot!

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    In our day to day life, we come across unusual things, like this display in a DIY shop in Phuket. Don’t ask…

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    Another escapade into Coral Island. An amazing place for snorkeling and as there are no tourists around, we had the place almost to ourselves.

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    Not my photo! Coral island beach with pontoon and reef.

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    A truly beautiful place on our doorstep. Best of all (for us), there were no people around.

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    From one beach to another with Marianne on Captain Hook. It was his first time on the beach and he loved it.

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    United World College is a truly remarkable school. At UWC Thailand there are more than 60 nationalities in a school of 450 students. It is a place of diversity, unity and understanding where children and young people learn about each others cultures and engage in social change. This photo was taken during Pride week at UWC; it captures Marianne as a strong, proud young woman!

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    And we are back in Bang Tao, on “our beach” where sadly we are not allowed to go at the moment.

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    As I write this, more and more areas are going into lock down here in Phuket and road blocks are being put in place. Let’s see if we can beat this thing. At the moment, we can still drive around to certain areas but probably not for long… It is a time of some anxiety, for me getting sick scares me a little with the IBD as not sure how they might complement each other!

    Being at home due to this virus has been a time of reframing our routines and learning to be together 24/7. It has been good so far; time to think, to reflect on our lives, to spend time together without stress, to focus on important things (like baking and chilling!) and to find out which friends are always there for us during hard times. There are some emotional ups and downs, mainly due to so much uncertainty although living in the moment is also very liberating. We will get through this one way or another….

    Being at home and looking through photographs has unearthed these, some from a long time ago.

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    One of my best buys. Make your toilet great again toilet brush!

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    How I would look like as a man.

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    Trip to Dublin on the Ducati, circa 1989

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    Working for CAFOD in Mozambique, circa 1994

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    Rasta waterfalls in Martinique, circa 1991

    It is a good time to reminisce and to look forward to what is coming next. Stay safe dear friends.

  • More Asian and European wanderings….

    As most of you know, my blogs are mainly about the photos with some information on the side. This one takes us to the end of 2019 and another set of adventures… Enjoy!

    Another trip to Penang in Malaysia for yet another visa, no more until next year. At least Penang is an interesting and a fun place to spend two days at. This time I ventured out of town to see some temples and visited old Chinese mansions – there are plenty! Another great thing about Georgetown is the amazing Indian food, I always come back stuffed.

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    Kek Lok Si Temple

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    Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia

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    Sky Walk at Penang Hill

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    Summer in Portugal never disappoints, in fact, we cannot think of many other places we would rather be. This time we explored Marvão and Castelo de Vide. What a stunning area; old medieval villages, castles and views to die for. If you like history, some of Castelo de Vide’s earliest inhabitants were the Romans who settled there in 44 BC. There is no shortage of cobbled streets, whitewashed houses with granite and gothic doorways.

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    Castelo de Vide

    20190624_10454920190624_10505820190624_11060820190624_11122220190624_11204420190624_163432We did a short hop to Cáceres in Spain which was truly amazing. The medieval walled city has been declared a UNESCO Heritage Site. Narrow cobbled streets twist and climb among ancient stone walls lined with palaces, mansions, arches and churches, while the skyline is decorated with turrets, spires, gargoyles and enormous storks’ nests. Protected by defensive walls, it has survived almost intact from its 16th-century. It is like stepping into the Middle Ages.

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    Back to Marvão! A little bit of information from the internet as I love a bit of history: Perched on a quartzite crag of the Serra de São Mamede, Marvão’s name is derived from an 8th-century Muladi duke, named Ibn Marwan. Ibn Marwan, who constructed the Castle of Marvão – likely on the site of an earlier Roman watchtower – as a power base when establishing an independent statele – covering much of modern-day Portugal – during the Emirate of Cordoba (884-931 CE). The castle and walled village were further fortified through the centuries, notably under Sancho II of Portugal (13th century) and Denis of Portugal.

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    Marvão by horse – can’t keep the girl away from these beasts….

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    Evora

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    As luck would have it, we stumbled upon Lisbon Pride, great fun!

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    In Lisbon for the Santos Populares festivities

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    Bansky exhibition in Lisbon

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    LX Factory

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    Quinta da Regaleira near Sintra is worth a visit. Never been there before and I am glad that I went! My favourites were the gardens, the secret tunnels and the inverted towers.

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    Inverted tower

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    The “other side” in Lisbon, across the bridge for lunch and to go up the Boca do Vento lift. Beautiful views and some cool graffiti.

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    As a lover of graffiti, I took a day to explore and discover various murals around the city. There are some amazing graffiti artists around, here are some examples.

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    Just a Lisbon doorway….

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    EDP Headquarters, great modern architecture!

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    My place!

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    Some random photos of Phuket!

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    Bang Tao beach, close to our house where we often go for sunsets.

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    One my best buys of 2019! Make your toilet great again, Trump toilet brush.

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    I wonder if he knows what his T-Shirt means….

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    Getting ready for the rainy season in November

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    How to make yourself confortable

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    Phuket graffiti by Cece Nobre

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    Phuket Town, no idea….

     

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    Geoff finally finds out who he is

    In April, we ventured into Laos to Luang Prabang. Beautiful town and we caught the Festival of Lights which celebrates Lai Heua Fai, in celebration of Boun Awk Phansa, the end of Buddhist Lent. The city was incredibly beautiful, illuminated by wax candles melting to pagodas and crepe paper lanterns hanging from temple roofs and the windows of local homes. Screen Shot 2020-01-19 at 12.35.53

     

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    Going up to Mount Phou Si, 100 m high. It lies in the heart of the old town peninsula and is bordered on one side by the Mekong River and on the other side by the Nam Khan River. Amazing views and a lovely temple!

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    I love bugs!

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    The Mekong

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    Moon bears sanctuary – these poor bears are trafficked and suffer a terrible fate. They are trafficked as exotic pets but many are imprisoned and abused in bear farms, where they are often kept in tiny cages, unable to move, while catheters are inserted into their gall bladders to extract their bile, believed to have a multitude of health benefits in
    traditional medicines.

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    Kuang Si waterfall, so beautiful!!!

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    Just a walkabout in Luang Prabang

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    And we end the year in Bangkok to see the Christmas lights. Over the top and extravagant as always. Bangkok is a city of extremes and excess, you either love it or hate it. I am not too fond of it but am drawn to it now and then…

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    Exposure of Tolerance: LGBTQ in Southeast Asia exhibition in Bangkok

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    Cocktails in the sky

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    And so ends another year in Thailand. Who knows what 2020 will bring?

  • Phuket and beyond…

    It has been an eventful year; a move to Phuket, sale of the Brighton home, new flat in Edinburgh, more diving, Joshua off to Uni, set up of business…

    Life in Phuket is good, goodbye noisy, polluted Bangkok; hello to more nature and many more cats. I set up Healthy Minds Phuket (www.healthymindsphuket.com) and am up and running! Fingers crossed for a prosperous 2019!!!

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    We have done more exploring with Penang at Christmas as I had to do a visa run. I was pleasantly surprised with Georgetown, it did not disappoint, a veritable mix of cultures, architecture and food. A good four days were had wandering and then wandering some more, exploring alleys, food stalls and temples, oh, and the fantastic graffiti! Living in Europe, we are faced with stories of hatred and racism but when I travel, I come across people of all religions and beliefs living side by side in harmony. Penang is such a place, where such a variety of temples, churches and mosques stand side by side, with the people living together without hatred. Ok, perhaps it is not as rosy as all that but it works!

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    Bali was another welcome surprise! It happened out of the blue as a friend offered us her house to stay in. We fell in love with Bali, with the people, the scenery, the food and the diving. It is one of those places that has a great feel to it and where you feel instantly at home and at ease.

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    Sightseeing in Phuket with the Big Buddha! Amazing viewpoint and a massive buddha to top it all.

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    There have also been many cat rescues, mainly kittens. As these things go, it all happened by accident and then it escalated to 15 kittens in the house. We are now down to 5 adult cats! The rescue operation has now been scaled down to enable marital harmony to prevail.

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    Diving in the Phi Phi islands was definitely pretty epic! Sadly, there were no water cameras around to depict the amazing marine life. At one point we were surrounded by hundreds of jelly fish and another by thousands of beautiful yellow fish (my fish knowledge is pretty shit….). Maya Bay remains closes, great news but you can look at it from a distance.

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    Maya Bay

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    A rock!

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    Most importantly, I found a fun zumba class with the lovely Daniel. Back in the thick of it, eat your heart out Ynna although I still miss you, of course!

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    The highlight of the year was a visit from the lovelies Pam, Rob and Laurie. all the way from Brighton. It was fabulous to have you all here even if just for 10 days. It was a packed visit as we tried to show them all our favourite places and more. Some pics from Khao Sok, the lake and some island hopping.

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    So, I know it has been years since the last blog, somehow my inspiration left me after I moved away from Tanzania. Thailand is an interesting place to live and there are many lessons to be learnt here. Mainly, nobody gives right of way on the road, Thais smile when they are angry, air cons are always set to freezing point, fireworks are ignited as you hold them, Thais cannot say the letter R, it is rude to touch someone’s head or to point and you must duck when you walk past people. Oh, and motorbikes can fit many people!

    I know I have been here a while as I use 7-11 to buy water, milk or a late night ham and cheese toastie but also to top up my phone, buy a plane ticket and pay my utility bills. I no longer use a knife and fork but a fork and a spoon when I eat. I often complain of being too hot and hide in the shade as much as possible. Wearing shoes feels weird!

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    I have also learnt to respect new laws:

    At 8am and 6pm, Thais come to a standstill to pay tribute to the most revered thing in Thailand: the monarchy. It is during this time that the national anthem plays, and everyone is expected to stop and pay tribute to the country. This is just one way in which the Thais respect their monarchy. Any criticism or jokes about the royal family can result in serious jail time because of strict lèse-majesté laws.

    The Playing Cards Act! This particular law lays out a number of things in regards to playing cards, but one provision that stands out is the actual number of playing cards a person is allowed to have: no more than 120 cards.

    Until the next blog, hopefully it will not be long….

  • End of 2017 in Thailand, Koh Chang, Koh Mak, Koh Samet and others….

    So another year comes to an end, just like that!  Thailand has grown on me, I actually enjoy being here although not so much in Bangkok.  I love the calmness of the people and the kindness and gentleness.  Of course it is not all great and life is life pretty much anywhere…  Work, routines, kids, weekends but there is something about the place that is calming and enjoyable.  The heat is not one of those things although at the moment it is a balmy 29 degrees and we were even cold the last few days with temperatures of 19 and 20, it was a shock to the system, I can tell you!  Small problems, indeed.

    There have been horse shows, a wedding, a python and trips to islands.  Diving has not happened as the weather was not great but we are still hoping to practice some more soon.  We live in a somewhat sterile, American type of community, not something we are used to at all so it continues to feel rather strange and weird to be in this bubble.  It does have benefits, it is quiet and kind of pleasant.  However….  we are in Thailand and beasties lurk even in the man made sterile environments.  We have seen plenty of monitor lizards about but the other night we nearly ran over a huge python crossing the road!  Not expected at all!  Beautiful thing, had time to get off the bike, get my phone out, fumble with the camera and finally take a pic, this is as good as it got before it slithered off into the bushes.

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    BIG python, about 4 metres long!

    Snake excitement aside, we attended our first ever wedding on a beach.  Congratulations to Adam and Miyoung on what was a truly fun, relaxed, beautiful and loving few days.  One of the best weddings I have been to.  Koh Chang has beautiful beaches and amazing sunsets.  Highly recommended.  The only downside was the wind!  We caught the end of a storm and it was actually rather chilly (well, in Thai terms!) and very windy.

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    Koh Chang

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    These are popular….

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    Flower arranging service

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    Am I getting smaller?!

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    Health and safety nightmare…

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    This dog loved his daily evening soaking

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    Sunset

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    More beach fire

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    Beautiful people in and out!

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    Petrol station

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    Thai buses are pretty cool!

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    It was bloody hard to leave the island!  Strong winds meant that there were no boats running so we embarked on a 7 hour journey – it should have been 1 hour, really…. Got on a boat.  Boat turned back.  Got in a taxi.  Onto another boat to mainland.  Long drive to another boat.  Boat to Koh Mak.  Another taxi and we arrived at our destination which turned out to be shit and we had to go in search of another place to stay!  Phew, a long day but ended up somewhere beautiful.  We enjoyed Koh Mak despite the awful weather (I know, it looks nice but it was chilly).  Small and rustic and very quiet, perfect!

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    Not sure that goes…

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    Koh Mak has lots of rubber plantations.  Here is some latex drying, it is quite stinky!!!

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    The local museum turned out to be quite a surprise.  An old house over the water, full of old trinkets from various eras.

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    I think the floor is quite sturdy?

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    A room with a view.

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    More sunsets

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    So many fish!

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    Back to Bangkok to enjoy Xmas and NY.

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    I wish that was mine but it was empty!  It still smelt of chocolate though…

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    Later afternoon trip to Ayutthaya to stroll and enjoy the sunset

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    Poor attempt at selfie!

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    We went into Bangkok for NY.  Never seen so many lights in my life.  Amazing mix of people on the streets, all having fun, no fighting, no drunks, just fun and happiness.

     

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    After a night of dancing in the streets of Bangkok and being squished in a crowd of thousands, we treated ourselves to an outing to a 1st class cinema!  It was actually before the above but it all seems like a long time ago now.

    Never having heard of such a luxury before, we were damn curious to find out what this was all about.  What better way but to see Star Wars in comfort…  We are shown to a lounge were we are offered a free drink canapes – very nice.  Inside the cinema, there are ginormous chairs which turn into beds, blankets are provided and there is a butler service for drinks and pop corn.  Well, not bad, a tad decadent but rather pleasant.

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    It has been a rather stressful and fraught couple of months.  After finding out in November that Geoff’s contract would not be renewed, I found out that my position was also not going to continue.  Nothing personal, apparently…  Still, it left us aimless and wondering what to do once again.  I guess that is the nature of this game (expat, teaching life) but it is still a little disconcerting to have to find a new job and move house/countries, whatever.  We also needed to find two jobs instead of one which created complications.  After a few arguments, unpleasant moments and some anxiety all is well in the Costa-Buck household.  In the midst of all this, we decided to attend a Search Associates job fair (for teachers in international schools).  These are held around the world and there was one in Bangkok so off we went.  It was one of the most unpleasant experiences I have had!

    It took place in the Sheraton in central Bangkok which has delightful views.  That was probably the only good thing going for it.  There were about 550 candidates and various schools from around the world.  So…  You look for the vacancies, place your CV in the school’s folder and next day you queue up at each of the schools and try and get an interview.  It is like speed dating, you have a short time to convince them to interview you.  In my case, it was a matter of a quick glance at my CV and a polite no, you do not have enough experience.  I take it that they meant that my life experience, coupled with a masters, social work and some teaching experience and counselling did not count for much!  Geoff fared better but they were only interested in him and not me so we left empty handed, demoralised and angry with the cattle market feel of the place.

    As I tend to say, things happen for a reason although I do not believe in destiny!  Such is life, Geoff got a couple of job offers in Phuket and we are off to United World College in July.  Rather excited even though I am jobless.  Something will come up…

    In the middle of all this, Geoff and I spend a relaxing few days in Koh Samet.  Close to Bangkok and very beautiful.  We were quite surprised that the island was so close and so lovely.  Got a scooter, explored and enjoyed the beach.

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    Little baby urchin holding on

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    Best beach on the island

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    Sunrise

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    Hippy moment watching the sunrise

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    The water, the water….

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    I rescued this bug from the sea.  Thought it was dead but it came back to life eventually.  Found out that is is a mango tree borer.  Quite an amazing looking thing!

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    Very excited to ring the bell and wait for the raft to take us to the floating restaurant.  It was not to be, the restaurant is now inland.  It was really good though!

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    Got to love the Thai signs…

    We are now in process of selling our house in the UK.  The end of an era, the start of something new.   Maybe a house in Portugal?  Watch this space!

  • Thailand, Hong Kong and diving!

    I did not know so much could happen in two months!  So we have finally found out that Geoff is not going to have his contract renewed.  A lot of you are asking why…  Well, he was on a 2 year contract covering for someone who has decided to return.  We were hoping a vacancy might have come up but no such luck.  We need to move, again!  Don’t know where yet, but we do know when, June!  Watch this space.  Shame as was starting to acclimatise to our new life and really enjoying my new job.

    On another note, we have been busy exploring as usual.  Since the summer holidays, we have been out and about, here and there.  The most exciting thing has been to finish our PADI and to go sea diving for the first time.  It was bloody scary at first.  I experienced an under water panic attack which was rather unpleasant but I also found that there is a whole new whole down there and it is magical.  We had the nicest of instructors, patient, caring, gentle and thorough; could not have asked for more.  Need to get a few dives in before we leave this diving paradise!

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    Waiting for the first dive!!  I look happy but am petrified…

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    Sattahip fishing port

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    I have had a couple of exciting weekends!  The previous one I went to Hong Kong which is a place I never really thought to visit.  Fortunately, there was a conference I wanted to attend so it was the perfect excuse for a little escape.  I really liked Hong Kong (and the conference!).  It is an environmental nightmare but it is pretty and lots of lights always look impressive.  Beautiful views, good place to stroll and eat and lots of boats to take from one island to another.  What more could I want?  I met a kindred soul at the conference, what a lovely woman!  We got completely lost with a map and Google maps and ended up getting into a cab and asking the driver to take us to where we already were!  He was amused and drove us around until we realised we were in the wrong area after all.  So cool to meet someone who is as useless as me with maps!

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    We had Loy Krathong in November when people gather around lakes, rivers and canals to pay respects to the goddess of water by releasing beautiful lotus shaped rafts, decorated with candles, incense and flowers onto the water.  Every year, Loy Krathong falls on the night of the twelfth lunar month (usually in November), at the end of the rainy season when the full-moon lights up the sky.  This festival is celebrated for many reasons.  The main rice harvest season has ended and it’s time to thank the Water Goddess for a year’s worth of her abundant supply, as well as an apology for polluting the waters.  Some believe that this is the time to symbolically ‘float away’ all the anger and grudges you have been holding onto, and including a fingernail or a lock of hair is seen as a way of letting go of the dark side of yourself, to start anew free of negative feelings.  If your candle stays alight until your Krathong disappears out of sight, it means a year of good luck.

    So, Krathongs were duly made and released into the Chao Praya river!  Quite beautiful and a happy time to be outside celebrating with everyone.

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    Making Krathongs!

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    Boys and Krathongs

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    Krathongs made of fish food

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    All shapes and sizes…

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    Made out of bread dough

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    Ready to launch!

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    Monk selfie!

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    Wat Arun

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    What it looks like from the water

    To finish off, some photos of life around here.  We love going to Kho Kret and walking around the island.  It is peaceful, very close by and there it always looks different depending on the season.  We went recently and found that most of the island was underwater.  Sad for the people who live there, it is not an uncommon occurrence as the rain swells the river which then overflows over the whole island.  People continue to live there and we walked past someone’s living room with the family sitting on chairs with water up to their knees watching television!  A rather strange sight but then again, Thailand is not like other places…

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    Pretty weird but this guy was just walking around with his slow loris pets!  It is illegal to have these as pets but he let me take a photo of the little guys.  Considering he was walking around Very cute but sad that they are not in the wild.

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    Life goes on….

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    Thai sweets

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    A boat is the way to go!

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    Road becomes swimming pool

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    That is it for now.  Thailand is growing on me now, especially when we venture out of Bangkok!  It is a beautiful country full of surprises.  The language is pretty impossible to learn, the food is like something out of another world (not always in a good way!) and the people are a constant source of puzzlement for us.  It takes time to understand such a different culture and way of thinking but we like it here!

  • Portugal once again…

    We arrive in Lisbon and immediately I feel happy to be “home” – whatever home means! It is such a beautiful city and we have Dave and Jackie with us; I like having people around, it gives me a new perspective on the place and what my favourite things are.  So, first of all walking about in Lisbon is one of my great pleasures and we start our first days ambling about, discovering, roaming and observing.  It is a challenge to take photos of things I have seen so many times before but I try to look through others eyes and this is what I see…

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    Views of the castle of São Jorge

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    Red rooftops and the 25 de Abril bridge

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    Doors everywhere…

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    Old streets, prefect for walking about

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    Old water fountain

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    Monument to the Discoveries, love this place, particularly the Pasteis de Belém!

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    Father and daughter sharing a moment

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    Fountain with horses and ducks

    No visit to Lisbon is complete without lunch with my brother Zé Pedro and his lovely wife Dulce.  They are the sort of people you can spend hours with and it feels nice and comfortable!

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    Men full of fish and beer!

    The most exciting thing about Lisbon this year was getting the kids registered as Portuguese citizens.  They now have ID cards – passports are next!  One week in Lisbon feeling jet lagged and running around from one government office to another, looking at shoes and eating a lot of food.  What more could I want…

    And now for some proper exploring! One week is to be spent exploring Serra da Estrela, the highest mountain range in Portugal.  This is one of my old favourite places and the last time I was here was about 20 years ago, give or take!  We settle in Manteigas which is at the foot of the Vale do Zêzere, with high peaks and forest-draped slopes all around.  There are many mountain villages in this area but Manteigas has been a settlement here since at least Moorish times.  It is a pleasant, quiet town, not much goes on here although it is an excellent base for various mountain walks and to visit old schist villages.  Well, they did not disappoint!  Here is Sortelha which was truly magical.

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    The castle built on a crag at an altitude of 760 metres

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    Love how the windmills have become part of the landscape

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    The 14th-century church

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    On entering, there is a beautiful pillory, surmounted by an armillary sphere, the symbol of D. Manuel I, and the building that once served as the town hall, both dating from the time of this king.

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    School toilets and others

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    Geoff loves pillories….

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    The strangest thing about this place is that there is nobody there!  Apparently only two couples live in the village now.

    On to Belmonte, Belmonte is an interesting place…  We found out that there used to be a community of “marranos” known as the Belmonte Jews.  They are a community that has survived in secrecy for hundreds of years by maintaining a tradition of endogamy (look it up!) and by hiding all the external signs of their faith.  The community goes back to the 12th century and they were only discovered in 1917 by a Polish Jewish mining engineer named Samuel Schwarz.  Some of them resumed the public practice of Judaism in the 1970s, and opened a synagogue, Bet Eliahu, in 1996.  There is a small Jewish Museum which tells you the whole story.  Was not expecting to find that in Portugal!

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    Belmonte from the castle

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    Jackie getting into the spirit

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    Nice colours….

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    A Pelourinho which in English is a pillory.  These are found throughout villages and towns in Portugal.  They date from the 12th Century and were normally built in front of the council building.  They were used to sentence and punish criminals.  Many had a small house on the top made out of iron where criminals were placed for all to gawp at.  In other places, the prisoners were tied to iron rings and beaten or mutilated depending on the severity of their crime.  I am quite fascinated by these pillars and what went on around them!

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    You can come down now…

    I highly recommend a sojourn in the mountains.  It is a beautiful area and is good for the soul.

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    By the house

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    Too much time on their hands….

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    David attempting to blend in!

    The area is beautiful and we went on one of the best walks I have ever done.  Geoff and I set out with a bottle of water and a couple of bananas expecting to be a couple of hours. Five hours later, hot and very hungry we arrived back at the house!  I can only imagine what this walk would be like when there is more water around, before the dry season has sucked out most of the water from the waterfalls and all the snow has melted.  The best thing was not coming across more than 2 people in the whole of the walk!!

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    Long climb and a view of Manteigas!

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    And further….

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    Made it to the waterfall

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    This is actually the trail

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    We were so hungry but there was nobody home!

    Another highlight was seeing the glacier valley.  It is a truly magical place 13 kilometers long.  The last 8 kilometers are the best with a U shape caused by the glacial erosion on the side of the valleys.  It dates to around 19,000 years and it is one of the longest in Europe.  Here are some of the views.

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    Beautiful views, beautiful drive – well, not if you do not like sheer drops….

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    The glacier valley

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    The road through the valley

    At the end you reach Torre which is the highest point and where the sky resort is. Well, not in July but in winter it is a rather cool place to visit.  Nevertheless, we availed ourselves of the facilities on offer and took a trip on the sky lift.  Never been on one before so nothing like the present, snow or no snow!

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    Posing in the old city

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    The old part is full of great graffitti and you can see the old buildings mixing with the new

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    A doorway

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    Vandalism of old tiles in the church below.  Quite funny though….

    DSC03784One of the great things about travelling with friends is that you at times end up doing stuff that you would never really even consider doing!  One of those things was a visit to the Burel wool factory in Manteigas which was just a short walk from our house.  Their website showcases some of their beautiful products all made from wool https://burelfactory.com/en/.  It is creative, imaginative and beautiful.  They offer a free factory tour which Dave and Jackie were quite excited about!  We thought we would tag along and I am glad that we did.  They talked us through the whole process and showed us the machines, some of which are pretty old!  They are still making most of the stuff by hand, incredible!

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    So many gorgeous colours….

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    Here you have it, a holiday in Portugal!

  • Summer holidays in Thailand!

    Warning: this blog contains lots and lots of photos!  I got a new camera for Xmas and have been going a bit mad!!!  By the way, if you click on the pictures you will be able to see a slide show.

    Three weeks spent in Thailand before heading out to Europe.  Katherine came to visit (Geoff’s niece) and we had a great time together.  It was fun to take her out in Bangkok and show her some of our favourite places.  She was an easy traveller and happy to do anything!

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    On the big wheel!

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    Our favourite local bar.

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    Party time in Chatuchak Market, delicious Margaritas and good music.

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    And yummy dried squid!

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    Ice creams

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    And plastinated bodies!

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    Yes, they are real!

    We waited and waited for Renee and family but sadly they missed their plane. In true Tanzanian fashion, their flight time was changed and they were not informed.  so they arrived at the airport to find that their plane had already departed, without them! One day later than expected they were finally in Bangkok and Geoff stayed behind to meet them.  Katherine, myself and the kids went off to Chiang Rai, cause why wouldn’t we… Here we are chilling and waiting.

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    Simple lodgings with a view

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    Many caterpillars around here!

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    Obscure directions

    We did not see them until the morning when we got them up to go for a 2 day hike!  After such a long journey, they were unusually sprightly and ready for the adventure.  The idea was to walk all day, stop and have lunch and then stay the night in a village somewhere up in the hills.  Something else happened but it was fine!  The hike turned out to be quite crazy with a local guide who was hyperactive and was not quite sure where the trails had gone.  Still, nothing a machete can not cut through and on we went. It was a hot, rainy and sweaty day but kind of fun too.

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    Off we go into the jungle

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    Renee assessing the water

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    Natural armchair!

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    More weird caterpillars

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    Filling the bamboo sticks with rice to cook in the fire

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    Big beattle!

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    Cooking the rice after a huge downpour

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    Lost in the bamboo forest!

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    Very hot springs, I know, I put my foot in it!  Bloody hot!!!

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    And another one!

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    Boat to the village for the night

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    So we get to the village and it is really not nice at all.  Back to our basic huts which look like luxury by now and the trek is cut short.  Next day we have a walk through the local village which turns out to be rather pleasant and visit a cave temple.  We find a cat cafe in the town where you can sit with lots of cats and pet them as you sip your coffee! Weird…

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    Temple in a cave!

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    Chiang Rai temple

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    Local village

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    Freshly killed pig!

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    Walking with a purpose!

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    I would highly recommend where we stayed, the Bamboo Nest of Chiang Rai.  Absolutely lovely with amazing home cooked food.  Go check it out, it is basic, there is no mains electricity but it is very special and only about 23 kms from Chiang Rai. http://bamboonest-chiangrai.com/

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    Geoff having a good stretch!

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    The morning clouds….

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    Happy days with lovely Christine

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    That dog is everywhere….

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    On the way to Chiang Mai

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    Wat Thaton temple in Thaton on the way to Chiang Mai

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    View from the temple and the river we travelled on

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    And another one!

    Onwards to Chiang Mai for elephants and a spot of town life.

    I have wanted to visit the Elephant Nature Park for quite some time now.  I love the work Lek does and think she is very inspirational.  However, the park felt too crowded and organised for our liking.  It is a great place and the elephants are well looked after, just too many people.  Nevertheless, I had fun getting up and close to these beautiful creatures.  They are so big so I tried to capture their eyes, amazing how they are all so different!!

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    Not an elephant!

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    A spot of dust after a bath…

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    Happiness is….

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    Blind elephant

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    Chiang Mai turned out to be quite pleasant after the initial shock of being in a busy city full of tourists.  My favourite thing was the huge array of old temples, so simple and so beautiful, quite a contrast to the newer temples in Bangkok which are so full of bling and excess.  Here is a selection taken on a leisurely walk about.

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    I was tempted…

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    The writing is on the wall!

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    A spot of torrential rain!

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    Bicycle cafe but now as we know it

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    Well, that was a busty week!!!  Off to Kho Yao Noi we go to chill by the beach.  Lovely island, extremely quiet.  Have the beach and chalets to ourselves with a few kayaks for our own use.  What more could you ask for…  Good place to stay albeit quite isolated and quiet which suited us all.  http://www.lomlae.com/index.htm go check it out, delightful place!

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    Kayaking to an island, harder than it seemed!

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    Monitor lizards, aren’t they great?

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    Yes, I was that close!

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    Christine is waving all the way from up there!

    Being on the island was just beautiful.  Lots of exploring to do and hardly any people about,  Perfect!

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    “Our beach”!  Not a bad view to wake up to each day.

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    Fishing…

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    Sunrise, me thinks…

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    Petrol station

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    Macro did not quite work…

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    Renee on a scooter!

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    Limestone everywhere!  Rather beautiful but marred by rain and cloudy skies, still a great day out.

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    Our boat for the day

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    So much limestone….

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    Rock paintings

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    James Bond rock

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    Floating village in the middle of the sea

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    A floating football pitch

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    Before the storm!

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    The floating village!

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    Another cave!

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    A window at the end

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    A window with a view

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    We found a strange world after walking through a cave…

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    Enter a captionNever seen one of these before, very excited!

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    Yeah, yeah, more beaches and hills….

    So, seeing Renee, Christine and family was great!  We could talk about Moshi, old friends and how we are going to ensure we meet again.  What truly lovely people they were to spend a couple of weeks with.

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    Renee and Geoff in deep conversation

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    A few drinks at sunset

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    Love the boats!

    So, two weeks gone in the blink of an eye.  More adventures to follow…

  • Bangkok and Thailand adventures

    It has been hard to write…  No inspiration, no time, no ideas, no adventures…  Finally, teacher training has come to an end and I can think again.  It was intense, enjoyable, frightening, fun and an incredible learning journey.  I have a job as a Pastoral Leader in an international school nearby and am very excited to start in August.  New start after 3 years without a job, also a new experience which I have not enjoyed so much, lost my financial independence and work identity but learned to be alone and to immerse myself in new experiences.

    Where to start?!  Today!  We went off exploring Bangkok, the new Bangkok I find ugly, busy, smelly, materialistic and not very inspiring.  However, there are still areas of old Bangkok where I can feel I have been transformed to a different place altogether and I love spending time in these “secret” places.  One such place is Khlong Bang Luang on the West side of the Chao Phraya River.  It is a laid back neighbourhood, a small village with stilted wooden houses along an old canal.  There are plenty of narrow alleyways with art galleries, studios, shops and local eateries.  Along the canal runs a rickety boardwalk where you can let your feet dangle above the water and feed the hundreds of catfish that live in the Bangkok canals and rivers.  The artist house was our main destination – Baan Silapin, coffee shop below, gallery atop and painting and colouring activities on offer. Great place to relax and while away an afternoon.

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    Cat fish feeding frenzy

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    No idea how MJ got in there!

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    The most beautiful and atmospheric guitar playing…

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    Walkways and alleyways

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    Another place we really like is Kho Kret, a small island not far from our house.  It is, once again, like being transported to another time and place.  A path runs around the whole island and it is a great walk which goes through a local market, past various temples and pottery making places.  We always try something new to eat when we go there and mostly it is suspect (such as barbecued frogs!) or other stuff that we do not know and tend to throw away as it does not agree with our taste buds!  It is a wonderful place to while away a few hours, have a look:

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    One of many kilns around the island

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    Cafe where your feet dangle over the water

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    Mon cuisine consists of a lot of fried vegetables and flowers

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    Fried orchids

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    Sacred tree

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    Sticky rice cooked in bamboo

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    Sweet things

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    More sweets

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    Tree!

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    More catfish madness!

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    No idea…

    There are numerous vendors cooking up a number of local treats mainly Thai and Mon snacks and desserts.  Favourites that the island is known for include “Khao Cher.”  This dish is a Mon specialty of rice served with chilled fragrant water and a number of little side dishes. It was a royal favourite for hot summer days, but now is hard to find most anywhere besides here. “Tod mun pla nor gala” is another treat.  This is spiced fish cake with the shoots of local ginger variety.  Gives you an idea of the variety.  I just love wandering about the paths and through the market trying out stuff and soaking up the atmosphere.  At the weekends the place is full of Thais visiting the temples and the markets so pretty busy!

    On another note, today is 37 degrees and it feels rather balmy.  We have returned from a few days in Kanchanaburi where the famous bridge over the river Kwai is.  The temperatures there reached 46 degrees, I never through Bangkok could feel cooler than it does right now.  Kanchanburi is not far, about 2/3 hour drive, it gets more and more jungly as you drive into the countryside.  The river is beautiful and we stayed on a floating cabin which was peaceful and beautiful.  Erawan falls were one of our destinations, a series of 7 falls which you have to walk up to, higher and higher.  The great thing is that the higher you go the cooler it gets and the less people there are.  The first 3 falls are packed with Thais with their huge lunch boxes and ice drinks.  At the top were the tourists who have little to carry such as us!  Highly recommend it.

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    Very rickety bridge

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    Oooops

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    Marianne was not too sure about this….

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    Maybe that says do not walk on the bridge!

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    Random shrines….

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    Flowers everywhere

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    New found poser

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    One of the 7 Erawan Falls

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    Here come the monkeys!

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    One of many swimming spots

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    Shall we swim in this one too?

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    Or this one?

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    Lurking in the bushes….

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    Geoff’s jungle look with photobomb

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    Offerings….

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    Our cabin

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    Bamboo rafting going past

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    Another fall…

    As we had visited the war museum and learned more about how the railway was build and its awful history, we decided to take a trip on the Death Railway as it is known.  The initial part of the trip was beautiful although old train and heat does not bode well.  Still, I thought about the poor men who were transported in closed metal carriages for up to 3 days without much breeze, food or water…  No wonder so many died building the railway, around 100,000!

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    The faceless monk

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    Train views marred by thoughts of the men who carved through this jungle…

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    And so we arrive!

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    The bridge!

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    It was quite moving to see the bridge and to travel part of the way (a lot of the railway is no longer in use) on such a well known part of our history.  It is hard to imagine the suffering of those who toiled and the cruelty of those who enslaved so many.  After a thoughtful and roasting day, we returned to our river cabin and proceeded to float down the river which has a pretty strong current, as we found out!  Great fun and wonderfully cooling.

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    First challenge, get on a bamboo raft

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    Then jump in!

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    And float…

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    Floating…..

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    Sun is going down

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    So Thailand is full of surprises.  The old and the new co-exist side by side in the most unexpected ways.  It is such an alien culture and language that I feel it will take me years to even feel I know what is going on around me!

  • Bangkok chronicles and everyday life

    It has been a while….  This studying to be a teacher business has been rather time consuming!  First placement is done so now I can focus on blog writing before the second placement beast is unleashed.  I think I like teaching, I’ll let you know more once I am over the shock of teaching and being scrutinized on a daily basis.

    In October, we went to see some whales, as you do.  Not just any whales but Bryde’s whales, I never knew they had whales in Thailand but there you go.  We went on an organised trip with other teachers, it was a great day and ABC news station from Australia was on-board.  See their short film: http://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-10-11/thailands-whales-at-risk-after-mystery-deaths/7923696.

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    Leaving the harbour

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    It’s a feeding frenzy!

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    We had a few days off and went exploring despite heavy protesting from the kids.  First to Krabi and Railay beach with its beautiful limestone crags.  It is a stunning location on a peninsula only accessible by long tail boat due to the high limestone crags.  Sadly, it has been overbuilt on and lost some of its magic but it is worth a visit.  It also poured with rain during our stay.  Still, it was warm…

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    Arrival

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    Not sure the rope’s going to do it…

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    Sound advice!

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    British resilience in awful weather!

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    Grey skies

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    These rocks are rather impressive.  The cave on the bottom left was full of penises!  Shrine apparently…

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    These boats are amazing

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    After a couple of very wet days in Railay, we continued to Kho Lanta in the hope of finding fairer weather.  It is a long journey with the kids asking why we are here and not at home. It is hard work at times!  We want to show them the world and its beauty but all they want is to be home and do nothing.  Still, we persevere and I wonder if they will grow up to hate travelling, especially budget travelling.  Kho Lanta is dead and wet but we enjoy it.  It is like having an island to yourself, there is hardly anybody anywhere which is kind of spooky, like an apocalypse kind of thing but peaceful.

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    Sunset swimming

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    Father and daughter pondering life…

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    Kho Lanta National Park

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    Hey, the sun is out and so are we!

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    Beautiful beach!  We later saw the signs warning against swimming due to abundant and dangerous jellyfish.  Oh, well….

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    Geoff is impressed by the giant leaves!

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    Lunch with a view

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    Marianne western style riding with a dreadlocked, Thai cowboy!  

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    It was great to get out of Bangkok and the huge building and crazy traffic.  It is peaceful out there and very pleasant indeed.  Life in Bangkok is missing a connection to nature and is horribly commercialized.  I have never seen anything like it before, the excess, the amount of stuff you can buy, everywhere, all the time!  It is frightening and feels so shallow and pointless – we don’t need it!!!!  I think Tanzania made me see beauty as well as horrendous deprivation.  It was life at its rawest, at its simplest and it was hard but it felt true (yes, corny, I know).  It is hard to explain, I feel I am in the Truman Show, I am being brainwashed with commerce, adverts and the masking of nature.  Onwards though!  Life is also good here and it is an amazing experience.  Some snapshots of life around us.

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    Rather large…

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    Outside local temple

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    I am starting to realise that temples can be rather unusual…

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    Statues in the peaceful temple’s garden!  What does it mean?!

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    Not so weird after the other stuff…

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    My quest to find bugs continues

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    Cows wallowing in the mud by the road, as they do…

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    On the boat into Bangkok, best way to get into town!

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    Signs for birds nests and shark fin soup!  It’s everywhere.

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    Surely there is some good fortune in one of those cookies…

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    Walkabout in Chinatown

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    Thai sweets in the classroom

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    Yum

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    Our local

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    Bangkok vistas

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    Nuan and Ed Sheeran enjoying a snuggle

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    We are sat in a restaurant and what comes by…  People selling food and people actually buy it too as they are eating their orders.  

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    My new friend

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    Remember not to ride elephants too!!

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    Crazy wiring

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    Marianne trying to blend in

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    More chaos

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    So, the moral of the story is…  Do not leave blogging for so long as you will forget all the quirky things that have happened.  On another note,  I am pleased to report that Geoff’s unfortunate encounters with food continue.  Chicken feet this time!  What next?!

  • Getting settled in Bangkok

    As usual, it has been a roller coaster!  Although not as challenging as settling in Moshi turned out to be, settling in Bangkok is proving to have its challenges.  We have certainly gone from a society of little to one of excess.  Well, I say excess in terms of shops, malls, stuff to buy, buy, buy but poverty all around too.  I find it hard to be surrounded by such excess of consumerism when there are people living in shacks outside the gates of our cosy compound.  I guess it is the same in the UK but unlike here or in Africa, poverty is not on show.

    So, what are the challenges?  The language has to be number one!  It is incredibly difficult to learn, to understand, to speak, and writing or reading is impossible.  English is not widely spoken so we really have to learn it to get on with life.  We have group lessons which inevitable turn to hysterical laughter halfway through due to the crazy sounds and tones we have to make.

    Getting around is not hard although the road system makes no sense to us and the roads are always busy.  Driving is fun and fast, overtaking can be done in any lane so easy peasy. My revelation has been riding a scooter.  So, I am 50 years old and have now discovered that I love riding about, why did I not try this before?  I like going through the clogged up traffic thinking “so long suckers” the best!

    Food can be interesting.  As we all know, Thai food is delicious and yummy and can be bloody hot.  Well, it can also be hard to identify what it is we are actually eating so a degree of curiosity and lack of fussiness is required.  I like to touch everything I see which as we know can lead to certain injuries.  With the food, I am tempted to try everything although I was pleased I passed when Geoff inadvertently ate a frog!!

    As usual, we have been exploring as much as we can and as much as the moaning from the kids allow.  If it is not far, we leave them here.  Further afield they come with us moaning and complaining and making our life a misery (well, most of the time).  We love them really but this teenage business is rather tiresome.

    One day we went off to Ayutthaya which was the capital of Thailand for over 400 years from 1350 until 1767.  Sadly the Burmese ransacked the place and today it comprises mainly ruined temples spread over a large area.  It is a really beautiful place to wander about for the day and explore the ruins and the area.

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    Is it safe to assume that these do not date to the Ayutthaya period?

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    Very large reclining budha

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    Very small reclining budha

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    Our next stop was a weekend away in Hua Hin where we went to a water park which the kids actually enjoyed and wandered about the local beaches and markets.  Geoff managed to crack a rib and I went on two slides which is a record for me!

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    The “beach”

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    They’re in there somewhere

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    Joshua finds a more dignified way to get out of the ring

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    Extremely rare photos of the kids happy together!

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    Running away from each other

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    Thai sweets

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    On the way back we went for a stroll in Petchaburi.  Temples and palaces built in 1869 and the setting for the film “The King and I”.

    dscn4688dscn4689dscn4691dscn4694dscn4695dscn4696dscn4700dscn4708The following weekend we took part in the Global March for Elephants and Rhinos.  A good event but sadly we were not allowed to march outside the park.  We are all probably on some Thai list of trouble makers!  Out of focus but here is the Sparkling Elephant from Tanzania!

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    The end…

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    Bangkok as we see it, not the most attractive of places

    Time flies as usual.  My course has started and am enjoying studying again, I think I will become one of those eternal students…  The flat feels very homely and cosy and purely by accident we have acquired two cats.  I think it is my animal magnetism that draws them to me!  One needed a home so I offered and the other was a foster placement but he is too cute to give back.

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    Randomly stacked on the pavement…

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    Orchids everywhere and ridiculously cheap

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    Small street temple but there are no zebras in Thailand…

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    The newly adopted cats

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    Who knew riding a scooter would be so much fun.  Been missing out all these years!!!

    So, this is now going on a bit and there is much more I want to say so bear with me. Marianne entered her first Thai horse show and she had lots of fun.  Here she is working towards her dream of becoming an Olympian show jumper.

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    Posing…

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    Waiting for the race to start

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    I shall end with a few things I have learnt since being in Bangkok.  Thai culture can certainly seem strange to us, “farangs” and it takes some getting used to.  Thais believe in ghosts and historically, overnight visitors to a Thai home were requested to ask permission from the phra phum (spirit ghost of the land) to stay in the house. The visitor would then be asked to thank the ghost when they left. This custom still exists in some rural areas of the country.  Raising you voice is unacceptable in Thailand, and considered an act of losing control. Remain calm at all times!!

    Don’t touch anyone on the head unless you want trouble. This is hard for me as I enjoy playing with small children and got a very angry look when I tapped a child on the head the other day.  The head is considered the sacred part of the body and not to be touched without permission.  Don’t point at monks or pictures of any of the Royal Family, ever!!

    I am scared of this: lèse majesté in Thailand which makes it illegal to defame, insult or threaten the king, queen, heir-apparent or regent since 1908. The punishment is three to fifteen years of imprisonment per count. There is no legal definition, however, of what actions constitute a defamation, insult or threat against the monarchy, and there is plenty of room for interpretation.  Be careful with what you say…

    Until next time…

     

  • New home – Bangkok!

    After a long plane journey we finally arrive in Bangkok.  Huge airport, hundreds of people, shops, technology, quite different from Kilimanjaro Airport!  We are dazed and confused and it is very hot indeed!  It is around 8pm at night but the heat does not seem to have abated. As soon as we step outside the airport we are covered in a sheen of sweat, a theme that is to continue…

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    We arrive at our new home tired but finally “home”.  It is a nice flat, comfortable and well furnished.  It is spacious with a small outside space and a pool right outside the back patio. It is odd, to find ourselves in this place.  It is like a holiday resort, like being in “The Truman Show”.  The perfect place, happy people, sunshine and health, friendliness and smiles.  It is nice and easy but lacking in character somewhat.  On the plus side, we are not in noisy Bangkok but somewhere with trees and birds and a lake.  It feels like Americanah! Anyway, here it is:

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    Walking home

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    “Our” lake

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    The welcome has been amazing.  Friendly and thoughtful; we were taken out to various places in Bangkok and shown the sights including dinner at the German Brewery which was nothing like a German brewery apart from the beer.  We were treated to the most bizarre show in this restaurant when suddenly curtains drew back to reveal an enormous stage.  I guess I can describe it as a smaller Olympic like opening show.  But, hey, this is Bangkok after all.

     

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    So we now been here for one whole month, yes, it has gone fast and it has gone uneventfully so far.  Here are some pics of what we have seen so far.

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    Giant cake on show in the supermarket

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    Exotic, in’it?

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    Bangkok is a jungle

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    Sampling local cuisine

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    Let’s hope they are right…

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    River bus, the best way to travel

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    It’s been there a while…

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    Orchids everywhere and so, so cheap!

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    Downtown in Silom

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    It is not what is seems

    We take the sky train into Bangkok, to Lumpini Park, a 58-hectare park which belonged to King Rama VI.  Air con is everywhere and you go from sweating profusely to shivering and goose bumps.  We finally get to the park and sit by the lake.  I look to my right and lo and behold, a monitor lizard is walking towards us.  Not what i expected from a walk in the park.

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    Post hunting of cat fish!

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    Here it comes!

    So, I guess you are wondering where all the temples are.  Yes, there are plenty about, a bit bling and over the top.  Here is the King’s Palace, impressive but worse than Oxford Street at Christmas time.  Kids were not impressed and wondered why we had dragged them there in the heat and the crowds.  We had no reasonable answer…

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    On another weekend we explored Ko Kret dating back to 1722, a small island on the Chao Phraya river, not far from where we live.  The island continues to serve as a refuge to the Mon tribes who dominated central Thailand between the 6th and 10th centuries and have retained a distinct identity in their version of Buddhism and, particularly at Ko Kret, their pottery which is elaborate and intricate.  Ko Kret is really rather nice, we walked around the island and saw beautiful sights, countryside, temples, villages…  Lots of street food which we had to sample but not without some incidents.  Geoff bought some delicious looking barbq prawns which turned out to be rather chewy and bony.  On closer inspection, they looked more like small flattened frogs, he was spitting for quite some time after that.

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    What is this strange fruit?

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    Some randomness:

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    Street frames

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    Marianne is loving the horse riding here

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    Us out of focus on a boat into Bangkok for the evening

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    Living it up at the Peninsula Hotel

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    Our new cat, Sinuan

    Our next adventure was into Bangkok into Silom.  Lots of walking and sweating in the heat.  Bangkok is not pretty, I have decided!  It is quirky but too busy, too polluted, too many cars, too much concrete, too much madness.  I am missing Moshi…  Although strolling around Bangkok is entertaining and there is plenty to look at.

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    Why are we not allowed to take a photo?!

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    Old Bangkok by the river

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    Modern vs new

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    Beautiful Indian Temple in Silom

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    Temple offerings on offer

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    Reminds me of Minecraft!

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    I leave you with some advice.  Do not ride elephants if you come to Thailand (or India or Sri Lanka…).  It is cruel to keep these giants in captivity and they need to be sent back to the wild where they belong.  Join the Global March for Elephants and Rhinos.  It is happening on the 24th September in over 125 cities worldwide. See here: http://march4elephantsandrhinos.org/2016-cities/.  We will be on the one in Bangkok. Every day around 100 elephants in Africa are brutally killed for their tusks. It is estimated that 25,000 – 50,000 elephants are poached each year. From numbering in their millions around 100 years ago, today there may be only around 400,000 elephants left in Africa; lower estimates put this number at around 250,000.  Let’s save these majestic giants!

  • From Lisbon to Brighton to Bangkok!

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    Balcony views

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    So much graffiti, love it!

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    Botanic gardens in Lisbon, a small oasis of calm

    I know, I know…  I have said it before.  Time flies!  Here we are in Bangkok but before I launch into the delights of being in this humongous city, I will have to go via Lisbon and Brighton where we had a fabulous time reuniting with family and friends.

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    The talented nephew!  What a voice!

    Lisbon is such a beautiful city.  We had not been there for quite some time and I fell in love with it all over again.  I’m not sure what it was.  Going to Portugal, in particular, Lisbon has always brought too many sad memories and a feeling that I wanted to get out of there. This time it was different; it was a beautiful and happy stay and I wish I could have stayed longer.  We got off to a good start with a great Air B&B flat and plenty of family visits.  One of the highlights was to see my nephew sing and perform with his group Seconda Pratica at Sintra Palace.  An absolutely stunning and special evening.

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    No trip to Lisbon is complete without a visit to Belem where the original Pasteis de Nata are still made!

    Lisbon has certainly changed, it is more dynamic, more creative and there is a lot more to do. Beautiful food in great restaurants, strolls around the old town but the Museum of Art, Architecture & Technology (https://www.maat.pt/en/about) was one of the highlights of our visit.  A stunning old power station on the river bank which retains many of its original features and equipment and also showcases modern art installations.  Great fun and it is free!

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    I’m watching you!

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    One of the ways to cross the river in Lisbon

    The light exhibition was visually great fun and the map of the world showing which countries have electricity is shocking.  Check out Africa!  We were indeed often in the dark in Tanzania.

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    One place I have always wanted to visit was Tomar, north of Lisbon.  Tomar was built inside the walls of the Convento de Cristo which was constructed under the fourth grand master of the Knights Templar in the late 12th century.  It was the last Templar town to be commissioned for construction and it is well worth a visit.  In the 15th century, Tomar was a center of Portuguese overseas expansion under Henry the Navigator, the Grand Master of the Order of Christ.  The Convento is nothing short of spectacular and really takes you back in history.  I just love walking around old places where you can “feel” the history!  I will not bore you with details but if interested have a look here http://www.conventocristo.pt/en/.

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    Dining hall

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    A window from a window!

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    As we were in Tomar we could not leave without visiting the famous Castelo de Almourol. Almourol is a medieval castle, located on a small islet in the middle of the Tejo River. This castle was part of the defensive line controlled by the Knights Templar and the area is also very beautiful to visit.  The only way in and out is by boat or swimming if you prefer. It is a peaceful place with wonderful views and gorgeous villages.

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    On the islet

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    This is one thing I love about Portugal, the history and the beautiful old buildings, ancient villages, fortified towns…  Obidos here we come.  An historical, walled town very close to Lisbon.  Cobbled streets, colourful houses and ginginha (cherry brandy) served in little dark chocolate glasses which you eat when our drink is finished. Delicious.

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    Got him where we want!

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    He was not trapped for long….

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    Up on the walls

    Being in Portugal was relaxing and a good introduction back to life in the west.  It was incredible to be in a city after 2 years in Moshi, to see shops, variety, culture, cars, so much activity and people walking so fast!  It was enjoyable and fun and I can not wait to go back. The thought of going on to the UK is not so enticing but Brighton here we come, let’s hope the weather is not too cold!

    Although all this moving about sounds terribly exciting, it is also very unsettling and confusing.  Have we done the right thing?  Will we like the new place?  Will we miss the old place?  Will the kids be happy?  Blah, blah, blah….  We go round and round in circles and the anxiety before the move goes up and up.  Being in Lisbon was great but going to the UK means that there is paperwork to sort out, more boxes to pack and the anticipation of waiting for the departure date.  Still, friends await and we are excited to get there!

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    Joshua is enjoying having plenty of food!

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    What strange people!  So good to see friends and have a laugh, good food and hugs. Wish I had taken more pics now…

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    Thank you to all friends who put us up, lent us their houses and made us yummy food.  We miss you all already, please come and visit us in this beautiful country.

    I was extremely lucky to have been in Brighton for my 50th birthday and it did not even rain for our annual birthday picnic.  Great company, good food and lovely presents.  I feel very lucky and loved, thank you dear friends.

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    From Primary to teenagers!

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    Walk on the downs, glorious weather

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    Marianne trots away happily…

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    In her element!

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    And so it goes, three weeks gone.  Happy times, sad to leave again but before we go I leave you with some Capoeira shots!  See you next summer.

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    The time has come to leave once again.  Bangkok here we come.  No idea what to expect but ready to get there.  watch this space!

  • Farewell Tanzania

    It has certainly been a challenging and interesting two years but now it is time to go.  It seems like yesterday…  Packing, saying goodbye, getting on a plane to go somewhere new.  Arriving in this strange place where things did not make sense (and a lot of the time still do not!) and everything was so alien.  Time is an amazing thing.  Suddenly, we are comfortable, familiar, have friends, know our way around; it feels more like home.  And now it is time to go, to start all over again, somewhere else.  I am excited, sad and a little scared to face the world outside Tanzania.  This has been a place of simplicity, of no frills, no extras, only the essentials are present, everything is practical, nothing is superfluous. Flying into the so called developed world seems rather shallow in many ways but also feels exciting to be able to have choice and efficiency once again.

    Being here, among people whose poverty dictates their way of life in many ways makes you humble.  It makes you question your existence back home and the way we live our lives.  Strange thing is, once we return it is easy to fall back into it and it soon becomes “normal” once again.  All these thoughts are going through my mind and I am not sure what to expect or how I will feel but I know that it will be ok!

    So, our last few weeks here have been busy and very reflective.  Are we happy to go? Would we like to stay?  Will Thailand be good?  Where else can we go?  Life is too short and there is too much we want to do still.  In the meantime, we have enjoyed friends company and appreciated nature around us.  Leaving makes you realise how beautiful things are and what you will miss, I guess that what I like about travelling and moving around.  There is a constant appreciation and little is taken for granted.  It makes you feel more alive.

    Today, we are off to Maramboi for the last time.  One of our favourite places where we can enjoy Lake Manyara and the animals that roam freely around the lake.  I hope to see some elephants with whom I have fallen in love with.  I truly hope humans do not kill them all! Maramboi is one of those special places where you go once in a lifetime, I have been lucky enough to go 5 times and to see this fabulous scenery at various times of the year.  This final time, we went with good friends, had a laugh, enjoyed being together and listening to the lions roaring at night.

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    Sunset over Lake Manyara

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    Stinky, dead wildebeest

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    Fluffy, puffy plant

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    Zebra enjoying the dust

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    So, I went rather wistful on the flora this time!  There are so many beautiful plants and flowers here as well as hundreds of small butterflies of all shapes and colours.  Instead of looking for the large things, I went looking for the ones we often do not notice.

    After Maramboi, it was our last week in Tanzania.  Packing, saying goodbye and more packing.  It feels odd to go, exciting but sad.  Also a little scary to go somewhere new and to leave a place that has become familiar and has begun to bear fruit in terms of friendships. So no more blogs about the wilderness or big beasts!  Thailand is next so expect temples and culture from now.  In the meantime, we spent a day in Istanbul which is one of my favourite destinations, walking and being amazed at being in a city after two years in Tanzania.  Istanbul is truly beautiful and walking around is a pleasure to the senses.  The food was also good and the sweet shops were very visually stimulating.  First stop, Turkish ice cream followed by pastries, Turkish delight and chocolates.

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    I wondered how I would feel being in a city again with all mod cons.  I was a little worried that I might be too overwhelmed and want to hide in my room.  This did not happen! Being in a city was wonderful.  Lots of variety, food, beautiful buildings, electricity, water pressure for the shower….  It made me realise how much I had missed being in a city with so much to look at.  So now I am torn between variety and stimulation versus wilderness and space.  Is there a way to have both?!

    Off to Portugal we go, more culture, family and lots of delicious food!

     

  • Friends come to Tanzania, finally!

    In March 2016, David and Jackie arrived!  This being our only visitors during our stay in Tanzania meant that we were extremely excited, especially as they were bringing chocolate and books!  So we got cleaning and planning and finally they were here.

    What better way to see Tanzania than being taken on one of our adventures…  We started with a few days in Moshi where we managed to pretty much take them everywhere (it is not a big place) including Mataruni Waterfalls, the local market (obligatory) and the famous sugar cane plantation (the posh place as we call it).

    Here are some of the highlights of their Moshi stay.  First stop Mataruni waterfalls, a beautiful walk through jungly forest, chameleons and a stop at a local banana beer bar. Dave seemed to somehow find this vomit like drink quite pleasant…  After having been warned about Jackie’s “episodes” around water, I am pleased to say that the day was incident free and much enjoyed by all!

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    Dave enjoys his bucket of sick, sorry, banana beer

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    Jackie interacts with a two horned chameleon, check out the freckles!

    There followed a trip to the Usambara Mountains and yet another waterfall walk where once again Jackie came out unscathed.  I, on the other hand fell flat on my face in a shallow bit and got soaked.  At least I was not wearing shoes…  I think it will make me laugh for years to come.

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    The rock of mandatory poses

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    The crossing of doom, how I fell in that and got soaked will remain a mystery!

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    The Usambara Mountains are truly beautiful covered in virgin tropical rainforest which is sadly being lost rapidly due to deforestation.  Negatives aside, it is a delightful place to visit and we dragged Dave and Jackie up to Irente Farm, a lovely drive with far reaching views and sparsely populated mountains.  We had a really nice stay and highly recommend Irente Farm for their hospitality, delicious food and amazing walks.

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    Mambo

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    Women dancing in Mambo, as they do!

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    Our balcony

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    Mambo Cliff Inn, spartan, basic and very nice.

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    I want to stay there!

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    And now for the scenic drive down…  A little steep at times

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    The roads are in need of some tlc

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    Crossing the river bed

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    Dave’s photo of a hornbill in flight

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    Strange creatures lurk in Tanzania….

    Staying at Mambo Cliff Inn was definitely a step down the luxury ladder.  Our bedroom door did not close at all.  Dave and Jackie had no power and no water in their room but had a lovely mattress, apparently.  The food was good though, beans and rice.  What more do you need…

    And off we went to Tarangire where we went even further down the luxury ladder and put up our tents in the park.  This is my favourite thing, camping in the wilderness with the animals walking about, no frills, basic toilet and shower and a campfire.  Perfect!

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    So many lovebirds!

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    Tarangire river

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    Lilac breasted roller

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    Leopard tortoise leisurely crossing the road

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    Morning view from the tent

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    Our neighbours

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    Crossing goes well

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    Tsetse flies

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    Dave’s home

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    Cute little cubs with angry looking mums

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    Jackie admires the view

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    Dik Dik

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    Weird campers….

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    Dave has fun playing with his camera and a solar light

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    When it rains, it rains!

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    Our rescuers!  Top guys.

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    Yes, we are stuck

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    Very stuck!

    One thing I learnt in Tarangire was that crossing rivers during the rainy season is not a good idea.  Well, the middle was ok but the sides were kind of like soft sand which sucked our car in.  After trying to dig whilst Jackie stood across the river looking out for lions, we came to the realisation that the car was truly stuck.  No mobile signal but who to call anyway…  Luckily, our friends were with us or else we would have had to walk and hope not to be eaten by lions and whatever else lurks in this wilderness.  On a positive note, the river was beautiful, the water was warm and there were pretty birds around.

    So, throw in a few blokes, a couple of cars and plenty of hours and our tank was finally ready to roll.  Unfortunately, next day we went for a drive in heavy rain and got stuck again…  Say no more!  Coincidentally, I was driving both times but this has never been mentioned by anyone out loud.

    After our muddy stay at Tarangire we decided to return to Moshi and snuggle up in our own beds.  Dave and Jackie, intrepid as they are, went off to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.  They had a very eventful time with their car breaking down twice, a buffalo rubbing its head against their tent as they tried to sleep and they witnessed baboon destruction on a large scale.  Apparently the baboons had got into a kitchen area in the campsite and eaten all the food and drank all the wine, they then went on a rampage and destroyed everything.  Their party was completed by smearing everything with poo!  Wish I had seen that although apparently the smell was not welcoming.  Very amusing stories that they will not doubt be telling for years to come.

    We were finally together at Maramboi where luxury was on the cards.  Maramboi is a really beautiful tented camp which is unusually not horribly expensive.  We had fun getting muddy in Lake Manyara and Dave got up close and personal with a Maasai.

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    Happiness is a free cocktail (or a few)

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    No idea where this was but they look silly

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    Have a good look Dave!

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    Walkabout in Lake Manyara

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    Mud skating

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    Flamingos and pelicans

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    After a restful two days and nights spent walking, watching animals, swimming and reading it was time to return to Moshi once again.  However, there were still a few days left to fill so what better than to go to Simba Farm and do a little hike over to the Shira Plateau.  Off we went to West Kilimanjaro to stay in an old working farm with the most fantastic views.

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    Simba farm

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    Walk down to the river, lush and green

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    Not a bad place to rest

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    Big horse vs small horse

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    Mount Meru

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    On the way to Shira Plateau, beautiful views of Kili

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    Kili disappearing into the clouds

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    Out of focus leopard prints

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    Maybe the message was not clear….

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    Up high in the clouds

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    One of the river crossings

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    Jackie studies the river crossing

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    Pretty bug

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    A spot of modelling by the river

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    Are we nearly there?

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    Back at the farm for a spot of horse riding

    Our walk up to the Shira Plateau turned out not to be very exciting although none of us (apart from Joshua who has been to the top, show off!) had been that high before.  It was remote with dramatic gorges and views of west Kilimanjaro.  We were amused to see a couple of local guys walking to the ranger post with flip flops on their feet as if they were doing a casual stroll.  Jackie and I got a bit of altitude breathlessness which was unpleasant but fortunately cleared quickly enough.  At least we can say we have been on the slopes of Kilimanjaro at 3,766 meters.  Exciting indeed!!

    And so, Dave and Jackie departed leaving bereft and lonely and once again without chocolate.  Not long remains of our time here but the memories will last forever (unless we get Alzheimer’s which would be a bummer).   

  • Daily life in Tanzania

    Feeling settled and now it is nearly time to go!  We have made some good friends and have somehow grown some roots in this place that seemed so alien to us not that long ago. Walking through Moshi felt like walking through some mad chaos where everything looked the same.  Unknown smells, different noises, “strange” people, different rules in terms of eye contact, personal space and traffic added to this chaos.  It felt claustrophobic at times as well as exciting.  Going into town became a major expedition and any achievement (such as buying a kitchen bin) made me elated and proud!  Generally, it was impossible to find anything I wanted and after a couple of hours of wandering the streets, I would come home, usually empty handed and exhausted.  Now, I see things, I see shops, items, people, fruit…  It is as if life has come into focus again.  I will miss it, I am sure.  This laid back feel, the space, the magnificent views, the downpours, the permanent bird song, the smiles all around me and the sense of not being alone as everybody greets and talks to each other.

    There is something about Africa (yes, I know it is big and not all the same), about the way of living, the way of just being, the way of not caring, the way of simplicity that is good for the soul.  On the other hand, animal cruelty, child abuse, extreme poverty, lack of human rights can be very painful and raw to experience.  It is certainly a place where emotions are pulled from left to right.  I have taken photos of daily scenes which I pass by chance and of places I go and enjoy.  Hopefully, it will transmit some of the atmosphere of the place and what we have experienced since being here.

    I was not sure which photos to add so have added a selection from the past 22 months.  It is like a walk through Moshi and Tanzania through photos.  I have been told I get far too wistful at times in my writing so I am letting the photos do the talking this time.

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    Carrot washing by the river in Moshi

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    The derelict railway station, great place for a drink in the evening

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    How do they do that?!

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    I think it is closed….

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    Dancing with a group of women in Mambo, Lushoto

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    West Kilimanjaro

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    Jackie contemplates death at Lake Manyara

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    Apparently they do not bite, can’t remember what sort it was…

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    Getting muddy at Lake Manyara

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    Wood collecting

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    Young Maasai before becoming warriors

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    This always make me smile when I drive past

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    Driving home one evening

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    Sugar cane plantation bus stop

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    Evening football game

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    Sunset swimming at Lake Manyara

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    Love the barber shops

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    Would not see this in Europe!

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    Hotel car park, the only car there and we were the only guests!

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    Christmas day Bagamoyo 2015

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    Local cafe, sadly iy was closed

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    Never seen this before….

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    Food shopping

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    One of the two rubbish bins in Moshi

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    Road block

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    Local bus

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    Posing beach Maasai

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    Lake Natron, the only vehicle we saw for a long time!

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    Lake Natron – Ol Donyo Lengai volcano

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    Walk with a Maasai, well more of a clamber across a small canyon

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    Petrol station in Wasso, tookk us a while to find it

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    Zebra photobombs our selfie

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    Crossing Lake Victoria

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    Beautiful animals

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    Testing the water at Lake Victoria

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    At Ujiji by the lake

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    Kigoma’s finest establishment

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    Sunset over Lake Victoria

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    Hard choices in Kahama…

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    Wanna fight?  Boys pose for a photo in Mambo

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    No idea how they jump so high!

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    Mambo views

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    Chill out time

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    Zanzibar

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    A local walk

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    Mataruni waterfall

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    Coming right at us

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    Boys in Pangani town

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    Ushongo beach

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    First time with binoculars

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    Mobile basketry

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    Amani reserve

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    First 4W4 experience

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    Road works

    Well done for getting to the end!  Hopefully this has been a journey through some parts of Tanzanian life.  But wait, this is not the final blog yet…

     

     

     

  • It’s the final countdown…

    As April comes to an end we are faced with our impending departure.  Time is flying fast and the end seems near.  I know it sounds a little extreme but the end of our adventure in Tanzania is bitter sweet, a love/hate relationship, a roller-coaster of extreme emotions. Today we may feel like we can not wait to leave whilst tomorrow we can not imagine not being here.

    Tanzania has been a country of extremes for us.  The natural beauty is astounding and awe inspiring.  The country is magnificent, the views that go on forever and the sheer amount of space.  Nature is simply breathtaking, the variety of animals big and small, the trees, flowers, rivers, mountains…  I have fallen in love with elephants, incredibly beautiful and on the brink of extinction should poaching continue at the current rate.  The cities are not attractive, they look chaotic at first until we learn to navigate this different world which is at times overwhelming.  The people are friendly and helpful but not always trustworthy. Their wide smiles and welcoming friendliness are warming and remind me that there is still humanity in this world.  On another hand, I have seen plenty of cruelty here, against humans and animals which has left me bereft.  So from one thing to another, day by day, loving the place, getting mad with people’s apathy, missing food and the Saturday Guardian…

    The most amazing thing has, of course, been the animals!  I have posted plenty of photos but here are the latest ones from Tarangire, Maramboi, Lake Manyara, Simba Farm and Mkomazi.

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    Up and very close to baby elephant

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    Are you looking at me?

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    Scary eyes!

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    Saddle billed stork

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    Dik Dik

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    Spot the bird

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    Baboon meditating

     

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    Leopard tortoise

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    Lilac breasted roller

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    Love birds

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    Big horse, small horse

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    Pelicans and flamingos

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    Never seen sitting giraffes….

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    Sun bird

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    Our resident garden owl!

    Being close to nature has been truly amazing.  Nature here is raw, untouched, wild, unsophisticated.  It has made me realize its beauty and how truly spectacular it is.  I have developed a love of elephants.  They are no longer animals I saw in the circus as a little girl which now I know is cruel and causes so much suffering.  They are beautiful, majestic, clever, gentle and are being killed on a daily basis.  Let’s all try to do something towards keeping this ecosystem and its animals!  It would be extremely sad if our grandchildren will no longer be able to see an elephant in the wild, or any other animal….

    The most amazing thing has no doubt been to camp in the wild with the animals.  I wish we could have done it more!  Camping in the Serengeti, we had hyenas and leopards walking around the tent.  In Tarangire, there were lions grunting close by through the night and impalas and giraffes were by the tent in the morning.  In Ruaha, the elephants walked slowly by and the hippos wallowed in the river below.  It has been magnificent!

     

     

  • Africa!

    More precisely, Tanzania.  18 months have passed and I have asked myself so many questions about Tanzania, about Africa.  Yes, Africa is indeed a very large continent with 54 countries, but it often gets lumped as an homogenous “place”.  For many, Africa conjures up images of savagery, hunger, poverty and it is true that this goes on in some countries but beneath this surface is also a continent rich in old cultures and traditions and strong religious beliefs.  I too speak of Africa as if it can all be spoken of as a whole.  Well, during my time here I have been wondering about this place – Tanzania, and why it is the way it is.  Why is it so poor and seems to be “stuck” in terms of development?  Is there a simple answer: colonialism, oppression, corruptions, people’s attitude?

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    Africa was carved up by Europeans drawing lines on maps of places they often knew nothing about.  By doing this they carved up kingdoms and societies which had hundreds of different societies, laws and languages.  It is hard for us to imagine a place with such diversity and a common concept of what we take for granted in Europe: the idea of a united nation.  The media naturally likes to feed on news of war and hunger but not all African are starving or fighting.  Millions have never even known hunger or war and lead relatively “normal” lives.  Africa has many realities and I can see this here in Tanzania.  Some live in mud huts and lead nomadic lives with very little whilst others live in expensive houses or flats, have nice cars, the latest mobile phones and run successful businesses.  I have met both, the so called poor in the villages who appear to be stuck in a cycle of poverty and survival.  They work for food and have simple shelters, they struggle to send their kids to school and can not afford to go to the doctor.  They can not imagine a different life.  The wealthy Tanzanians I have met are ambitions, driven and have succeeded despite all obstacles.  In a way it reminds me of people in the UK who are stuck in similar cycles. It seems that personal determination and ambition are what it is needed to achieve rather than charity and handouts.  It is a place of extremes and we are not used to seeing such disparity in the West.

    Our reaction has been to feel sorry for people in Africa, to see them as victims who need help and money.  If we give money it will all be put to rights.  I have often questioned the efficacy of aid work in general and being here has made me even more skeptical that it is not always the way forward.  Only Africans can develop Africa, they understand it and work with it.  I feel that I truly can not grasp its complexities, the way people think, the way things work.  I can try and try but ultimately the gap is just too big.  It seems to me that the aid industry has an interest in maintaining the image of Africans as hopeless victims of wars and famines as it brings in donations but by continually portraying such an image they have helped to create an image of a hopeless Africa.

    It is well known that pictures of starving children and disasters will bring  in donations. One such example which really makes me rather angry is the way orphanages are used in Tanzania; there are hundreds of orphanages asking for volunteers and donations.  Most people do not question the origins or the purpose of these institutions.  They see cute little children who are dressed in rags and hungry and give money.  A quick internet search on orphanages in Africa will bring up hundreds of pages all asking for donations, talking of abandoned children, orphanaged children, children without a toothbrush or a pen!  These websites often show pictures of young, white volunteers holding cute, little black children.  They come for a few weeks to play and hugs the children and then leave the children to wait for a fresh batch of “huggers” to take their place.  Nobody seems to question what this does to the children, what emotional impact it has on them.  I have asked people in orphanages and volunteers about this but they simply shrug.  The volunteers want their African experience and the orphanages want the money.  It’s disturbing, it’s child exploitation out in the open!

    This is by no means an African issue, it is happening all over Asia and Latin America too.  UNICEF has written at length on this issue and why orphanages are not good for children.  This is a good explanation on why!  http://globalsl.org/why-unicef-and-save-the-children-are-against-you-caring-for-orphans/  Please spread awareness of the harm many of these orphanages are doing, let’s not encourage young people to continue to feed the problem but let the local people find a solution that does not involve yet more handouts and charity.

    It turns out that the majority of these children have families but they are placed in orphanages for all sorts of reasons, sometimes they are even trafficked!  I have visited many orphanages since I have been in Tanzania and on each visit, I have left feeling horrified for what those children are going through.  Poor conditions, lack of facilities, no stimulation, no attention, lack of cleanliness, children being left in their own urine, babies on their backs on the floor all day, etc, etc.  All such places are being run on donations and with the help of foreign volunteers and nobody questions where the money is going or if the children are being well looked after.  This is only one example of aid coming in to the wrong hands and how by perpetuating the images of hungry children who need hugs is leading to an increase in orphanages in Africa.  I am by no means against aid in general but I do believe that we do not always truly understand the implications that aid can have on people and it is not always positive.

    So now I am ranting as this is an issue that plays in my mind.  They are big questions and this is a blog so I am guessing you want to read about lighter stuff, fun stuff, everyday stuff.  Christmas arrived as it does each year and as usual we wanted it to be somehow special and memorable.  Where to go, what to do…  Bagamoyo was chosen as a good place to spend the festivities.  It is on the coast, it is old, it is hot and the hotel had a pool!

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    Bagamoyo consists of various narrow, unpaved streets around a port.  The town was an important settlement in East Africa and linked Lake Tanganyika with the sea.  Slaves, ivory, salt and coper were unloaded before being shipped to Zanzibar and elsewhere, and many European explorers, including Richard Burton, Henry Morton Stanley and David Livingstone, began and ended their trips here.  It is an interesting place with a chilled atmosphere and a beach which is packed with fishing boats and locals passing the time.  I quite liked it even though it felt as if we were in a set of Mad Max.  The town is pretty run down and at times it feels like the place is simply squatted.  Somehow it was pleasant to wander around and to look at the ruins of the old buildings.  We explored the area and found some lovely cove beaches good for swimming.  On Boxing Day the beach was packed with locals enjoying a stroll and a drink.  Oddly though, at around 6pm, the police appeared from one end of the beach and marched everyone off the beach!  No idea why but they never came back.  This is indeed a strange country.

    A quick note on the photos, if you click on them you can get a slide show!

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    From Bagamoyo we travelled on to Morogoro in the Southern Highlands of Tanzania.  It is also known informally as “Mji kasoro bahari”, which translates as “city short of an ocean/port”.  Nothing remarkable about Morogoro apart from a lovely view of the Uluguru mountains.  We stayed at the New Acropol Hotel which was a rather eccentric place!  It is a very old building now rather crumbly but full of character.  The interior is stuffed with all sorts of items.  I really am not sure what to make of it but I liked it a lot!  It was different and the Canadian woman running it was also eccentric and very funny.

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    From Morogoro we drove to Iringa.  It was the most beautiful drive on a tarmac road winding through the mountains with fabulous views of the river Ruaha.  We passed many, many stalls selling pineapples, all arranged in different ways, I thought they were beautiful with the various tones of the fruit and the lush green backgrounds.   They taste delicious too, incredibly sweet and juicy!

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    We also had to drive through Mikumi National Park which I find totally bizarre.  As you enter the road through the park you are warned about the incredibly high fines should you run over and kill an animal.  However, most drivers including large buses and trucks pay no notice and drive through like lunatics.  Who on earth thought that having a road cross through a major wildlife park is a good idea?!  There is litter by the road, animals come and scavenge.  We saw baboons licking crisp packets and playing with plastic rubbish. Animals are drawn to the road as people throw their rubbish out of the windows and stand by waiting for more. Then there is the pollution and the fact that the animals are coming into contact with humans and being made more vulnerable by doing so.  And now they want to build a major road through the Serengeti!  Please, please join (it’s free) and help them to stop this happening.  http://serengetiwatch.org/.  The Facebook page is also good.  The more pressure the world can put on these corrupt leaders the better chance we have of saving these beautiful places.

    There is the proposal to build a new road across the northern Serengeti wildlife corridor, breaking the link between the wet-season grazing area of the Serengeti Plains to the dry-season feeding grounds in the Masaai Mara Nature Reserve in Kenya.  There is a plan to tarmac the road linking two west-country regional capitals through Katavi, Tanzania’s third largest and most remote national park.  There is talk of upgrading the coastal road through Sadaani National Park linking Dar es Salaam with the port of Tanga.  The impact is great.  Road construction causes physical disturbance, chemical pollution, noise and environmental degradation both during and after road-building.  Road-kill mortality rapidly escalates in the aftermath of highways and even unpaved logging roads attract poachers into formerly pristine areas, extending mortality far beyond the road itself.  Of course infrastructure development is key to development, poverty alleviation and empowerment of the rural poor who either depend upon or are driven to overexploit natural resources.  Again we need to spread awareness of these issues if we want to preserve natural habitats all around the world.

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    As we approached Iringa the scenery became more lush and the views were magnificent. I find that we see such incredible beauty but to capture it in photos seems to be impossible. It has made me want to do a course in landscape photography and buy one of those “penis extension” cameras (well, nearly…)!  Iringa itself turned out to be a pleasant town by Tanzanian standards.  Small, with a nice park in the center and a relatively quiet and not so chaotic market.  In terms of eating out, it was very limited and we decided to try out the best place in town as every other restaurant seemed to be closed.  This place was in a hotel and I felt I was stepping on to a David Lynch film set.  Dark, dingy, old and with a slight feeling of menace about it.  We were taken upstairs by an old guard who was sullen and quiet and down a corridor to a small room and there we were!  We did not see any other people about and we were alone in the restaurant.  It was quite a surreal experience and it is hard to put into words but the food was ok.  Top tip for food though – Hasty Tasty, excellent chapatti rolls and cheap.

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    The best place in Iringa though, and now I am will turn this into an advertising  blog (briefly!) was Neema Crafts.  A not for profit center which includes a guesthouse, a cafe and a beautiful shop where the items made by disabled members are sold.  The guesthouse is really nice and so cheap.  Clean rooms, comfortable and friendly.  The cafe is beautiful, amazing food and good cakes.  They even had copies of the international Guardian and we completed all the crosswords!  I think we needed that, it has been a while.  They have a website and an online shop.  Read about them and support if you can, it is not often that I am inspired by charities here but this one really touched me.  They are making a change for people with disabilities in Tanzania and doing an amazing job! https://www.neemacrafts.com/

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    Beautiful quilts!

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    This is turning into some sort of social activism blog.  First Africa’s troubles, then conservation, climate change, disabilities….  Anyway, we also had some fun as we got to Ruaha National Park.  The biggest park in Tanzania, quite remote and the size of Denmark! Needless to say, we saw only a fraction of it but it was magnificent as nature often is in Tanzania.  We camped by the great Ruaha River and I must say that camping is for me the only way to stay in a park.  Forget the posh lodges and put your tent up.  It is dark at night and the sky is full of stars and constellations and you can see EVERYTHING up there.  You can see and hear animals walking around and waking up is just so special.  Highly recommend it.  So, Ruaha is famous for its large population of elephants, sadly it is also known for heavy poaching and as the rainy season approaches, more and more elephants will be killed as rangers can not patrol the more inaccessible areas of the park.

    Check out these statistics: The Tanzanian government recently estimated that 65,721 elephants have died in the country in the last five years. This shows that the number of Tanzanian elephants has declined from an estimated 109,051 in 2009 to 43,330 in 2014. Of particular concern is the Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem, where only 8,272 elephants remained in 2014, compared to 34,664 in 2009, according to government figures.  Now, I do not mean to bore you but I think that it will be tragic if our next generation is no longer able to see an elephant or a rhino or a lion!  It is important to raise awareness about this corrupt trade that is destroying ecosystems at an alarming rate.  Here I go again…

    So many elephants everywhere, it is hard to imagine what it was like before the population was decimated!  As we were putting the tent up, elephants were walking about, slowly…  They were just beautiful, silhouetted on the horizon.  The hippos were calling out in the river and birds were all around.  It takes time to put a tent up with so many distractions.

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    At the campsite

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    Happy campers
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    Sunset or sunrise? Can’t remember…
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    Not a bad spot

    Next day was spent exploring the park.  We spent quite some time looking for the lions and leopards but did not find any.  They are good at hiding!  We did find other animals though and had a great day wandering about the park and absorbing the amazing scenery.

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    He’s coming this way!! So close!
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    The Great Ruaha River

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    Jackals with baboon
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    We kept the doors open whilst looking at the hippos in case lions came, hard to relax…

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    Best to wait for them to cross, I think.
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    I can see you…

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    Really?!

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    Love these!

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    Nearly time to get back on the road, next stop Dodoma for New Year’s Eve.  It is the capital after all so there is bound to be something happening although various people have said that it is quiet and more like a village.  We accrued yet another fine for over speeding as it is called here and eventually got to Dodoma.  Not a lot going on so decided to stay in the best hotel in town as they had a buffet and a band.  It pissed with rain, the place was quiet but the food was good.  Memorable in some ways, least of all for the unusual mix of people in the hotel and the extra friendly kittens.

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    The lively band… not!

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    On the road, this bastard tried to mow us off the road but I got him on camera!
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    Love the barber shops
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    So many birds
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    Butterflies on the road

    As if this was not enough, our final stop was at Maramboi to see what all the fuss was about.  This is a lodge very close to Tarangire National Park and was said to be rather nice and affordable.  So for the first time ever, we treated ourselves to a lodge and it was amazing.  Not flash, just comfortable, great food, good pool, many animals walking about and great service.  Perfect, highly recommend it as only 4 hours from Moshi so great for a weekend.

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    Warthogs, in case you are wondering…

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    And finally I would like to name and shame the police (there were many of them!) who stopped and fined us for overtaking on a straight road with no markings on the way to Moshi.  Apparently they decided it was dangerous.  When we queried the fine, the big boss got very irate and threatening and told us we had to obey the laws of Tanzania.  So, whatever law it was that we broke, I would like to point out that this is corruption at its best!!  Bring on the money.

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    The road of unlawful overtaking!

    Until next time…

  • Long time, no see…

    Yes, it has been a dry season for blogging.  Don’t ask me why…  I have started and deleted many times, it just never seemed quite right.  So after a few months of prevarication and indecision here I am again with some new adventures and stories.  The last few months have gone by quite uneventfully, on the surface at least.  Day to day life goes by.  I have felt frustrated, elated, excited, bored, disappointed and confused (to mention but a few) about being in Tanzania.  Should we stay another two years?  Should we move elsewhere?  One thing we are certain of, going back to the UK is not something we are happy to consider so at least there are only two choices to be made.  I was reading how having too many choices can lead to anxiety.  It made me think how in the West we have so much choice and little necessity whilst here we have so much necessity and so little choice.  Having less choice has been frustrating but it has made life simple and easy.  Anyway, we finally made a decision and we are moving to Bangkok in August.  It is rather exciting but also scary given that we will be back in the world of many, many choices.

    On another hand life here can be funny as logic and rationale as we know it does not apply.  I ordered 2 fish at a local restaurant, waiter comes back and tells me there is only one, how many do I want?  Puzzled by his question, I reply, well, just the one then.  He returns later to let me know that there is no fish so does that mean I want one less steak?  We did get food eventually!

    My favourite is the spice buying at the supermarket.  This is a rather long story so I have shortened it for everybody’s sake.

    Me I would like to buy 50g of cumin. Assistant It says 100g on the ticket so we can only sell 100g. Me Well, you can weight any amount and the machine will give you the price.  Assistant The scales can not do that.  Me Please just try it.  Assistant Not sure as it is not the shops’ policy to sell less than 100g. Me Please…..  Assistant Ok then.  Very surprised when it works until I ask for another 50g of something else and so on…

    We got fined by traffic police (happens all the time) for overtaking on a straight road with no markings.  Apparently the police decided that it was dangerous and that we were breaking Tanzanian law.  When queried, the policeman got extremely irate and proceeded to yell at us threatening to tow our car away and leave us stranded.  Sometimes it is just easier to pay the fine!

    Anyway, speaking of choices, another choice I have made has been to train to become a Primary School teacher.  I have been involved with the school here and been helping with the Early Years class.  I have really been enjoying this and so in September I will do a PGCE in Bangkok.  We will both be able to work and I will finally have a job.  Am rather excited about this new venture.

    Well, so what has been happening?  There have been walks on the hills and countryside, some more scary than others but always very beautiful.  The walks go everywhere, there is no health and safety which makes for very beautiful views and very steep drops.

    Geoff went flying on a scary plane which was made of tin and cloth and I wondered if that was how I was going to become a widow!  Luckily he returned very happy and excited with his new adventure.

    The last four months at the school have been rather fabulous as I managed to recruit 4 volunteers that were totally amazing and became friends.  It was a time of companionship and laughter and I am sad to start the new year without them here.  Thank you Shaheen, Kevin and Julian who have now left to pursue new adventures.  Geerte remains here for a little while longer and hopefully more volunteers will arrive this month.  Fingers crossed.  In October we also went to Kenya for 10 days as it is cheaper over there in general.  We rented a beautiful house with a pool and were very excited to be able to buy cheese and cured meats at the local supermarket.  Everyday was a veritable feast of cheese and meat with lovely breads.  I have never been so excited to go to a supermarket even though we had to be checked for bombs every time we when shopping!

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    Miss you Shaheen!

     

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    Julian and Shaheen – come back!

     

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    And the multi talented Kevin who always made me laugh!

    So Kenya was interesting but a little edgy with all the terrorist checks.  Driving through Mombassa was a nightmare of chaos and traffic.  It took us three hours to drive through and to queue for the ferry.  We later found out that there had been a stampede on the ferry and people had got hurt.  It was quite unpleasant so arriving at Diani beach was very relaxing indeed.  Sadly and unknowingly, we set our camera to a weird low quality setting so all our photos of Kenya are rather weird!  We relaxed and Marianne went riding on the beach on a massive ex-polo horse which she loved.  Go Maz!!

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    Posing beach Maasai

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    And for some randomness now:

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    Tanzanian Clown Doctors!  Really was not expecting to find them here….  I worked for the Clown Doctors charity in London so it was great to see they are taking over the world.

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    Drinks at the illustrious Moshi train station

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    Now they tell me!

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    Dead chameleon

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    Wood stall

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    Clothes stall

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    Dead squirrel

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    There are 2 bins in Moshi

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    Joshua back down from the Mountain

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    Still no idea what this road block is for…

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    Let us pray

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    Breadfruit

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    Weekly shopping at the market

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    I hope this gives you all a glimpse of our exciting life in Tanzania!  It has certainly been a rollercoaster so far and some days we are happy as pie and chips and others we hate it and wonder what on earth we are doing here.  Maybe we are just very unbalanced people…

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    Amazing how much you can carry on a bike!

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    This is our favourite place.  The derelict train station, there is a shack for drinks and a view of the mountain.

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    I think he is in for a long wait….

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    Geoff showing Joshua how to use a napkin

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    Colobus monkey

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    Oh no, we were not!

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    Clear enough

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    Marangu waterfalls in the rain, rather steep and slippery but beautiful

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    Local shop, sadly it was closed…

    Here we are then, that is our last few months up to December.  I will post a new Xmas blog very shortly with new adventures and photos of elephants.  I miss you all and look forward to seeing you soon, my dearest friends.

  • And finally, the Serengeti…

    We leave Mwanza, headed to the Serengeti.  We have seen a lot, been to two national parks, stayed by Lake Tanganyika, travelled on some beautiful roads.  Not feeling too bothered about the Serengeti, really, I’m not.  At least the road is good (all relative) and we do not have far to go.  We stop over for lunch at Papa’s on the lakeshore for lunch.  The best part about Papa’s is that all proceeds benefit JBFC, an NGO dedicated to alleviating extreme rural poverty in Tanzania through its work with children.  It is a truly beautiful place and we are tempted to stay the night but the Serengeti calls.  Only another 50mns or so to the gate…

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    We are finally near the Serengeti but can not find the gate.  We discover later on that the sign was blown away and has not been replaced so the entrance to the mighty Serengeti is hardly noticeable!  Outside some baboons hustle the buses trying to steal food and whatever else they can grab.

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    Tiny baby by bus stop
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    The Serengeti is Tanzania’s oldest and most popular national park.  It is also a world heritage site and recently proclaimed a 7th world wide wonder and is famed for its annual migration, when some six million hooves pound the open plains, as more than 200,000 zebra and 300,000 Thomson’s gazelle join the wildebeest’s trek for fresh grazing.  We were hoping to get a glimpse of this and after speaking to a few guides we managed to locate part of the migration, eventually!  More of that later…

    On entering the park, the first thing we saw was a giraffe who had just given birth.  She was cleaning her calf and the calf was making various unsuccessful attempts to stand.  We watched for a while but not knowing how long it might take for the little one to stand, we decided to carry on.

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    The amazing thing about the Serengeti are the vast views, it takes your breath away.  The views are magnificent and we immediately felt as if we were in a David Attenborough documentary.  It is just like the programmes you grow up seeing on the television!  It makes you realise the enormous task of tracking and filming the animals and how much work and time goes into a one hour documentary.  Although we had seen many animals in other parks, we were not prepared for the vast numbers that awaited us in the Serengeti.  In the other parks, we might see a few zebras, a few elephants and giraffes…  Here we saw hundreds of them!  It was extraordinary, coupled with the vast views, it was breath taking and no photo of mine is going to do it justice.

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    Baboon eating ant’s nests on an acacia tree
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    Wildbeest
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    Yes, he was really that close
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    Cute cubs
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    Posing vultures
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    Having stated previously in a rather cool fashion that I am not bothered about seeing lions, I was forced to eat my words!  Seeing lions was so exciting, if I could I would have got out and run around jumping with joy.  The lions came right up to us and we were the only car there, all the other safari cars seemed to be elsewhere.  So we enjoyed our close encounter in peace and quiet.  The lions were chilled and were walking about the bush slowly rather than in their usual asleep poses.  We just sat and watched them, the lioness chilling under a tree, the cubs frolicking and eventually the very slow appearance of the majestic looking lion, strolling into his territory, giving the lioness a nudge and a lick.  They all started strolling off together just as other safari cars arrived.

    We were ready for our picnic but discovered that the picnic site was right by where we just seen the lions so decided against it and carried on.  I did get out to use the toilets but was very sheepish as I walked from the car to the toilets and back, keeping my wits about me.  After all, we had not been in the Serengeti long and I was not about to become a lion snack just yet.

    Our destination was Seronera campsite which as usual was not far but took most of the day to reach.  We decided to take a route which according to a guide we chatted to would take us past the migration.  Off we went, to find out that we were the only ones on that track and had no idea where to go.  Geoff, being keen on maps, had downloaded some track thing of the internet and we were able to find our way, eventually.  As it turned out, this was a very beautiful area and was absolutely packed with zebra and wildebeest.

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    Our little car competing with safari vehicles!
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    Such beautiful animals
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    Gimme shade….
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    Off the road!
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    Definitely my favourite animals
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    Camping at Seronera, we even brought our mat, very civilised.
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    View at the campsite
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    There are hundreds of these birds in their spiky nests and I can not remember their name!!
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    Sunset at Seronera, not a bad view for dinner
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    We met a couple of older German guys who were doing their own safari.  Turned out they were pilots and we ended up sharing the sunset with them and having a drink before retiring to our beds.  Before coming here, camping in a safari park seemed petrifying.  It was nothing of the sort.  It was glorious, special, beautiful…  During the night we heard hyenas laughing and prowling about and also the calls of leopards.  We decided that it was perhaps best not to visit the toilet during the night although we were assured next morning that the animals would have run away should we have come out of the tent.  Still, we shall never know…

    Next day we pressed on to Lobo campsite and crossed the northern Serengeti to get there.  This part of the Serengeti is isolated with a stunning selection of Kopjes and the most awful corrugated road.  These roads are probably some of the worst to drive on.  Having been on various types of “bad” roads, we were unanimously agreed on this.

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    Some corrugated roads are so bad that some people have actually turned around and given up, much due to not knowing how to deal with it and sometimes the road is really that bad it comes down to pure willingness.  It took us a while to realise that the best way to deal with these roads is to go as fast as you can and to lower your tyre pressures.  Going slowly is hell, the noise and the vibration is horrible and the car slides about as if on ice.  Going fast is scary, especially on narrow roads which animals around.

    Corrugated road aside, the drive was beautiful and we saw many more animals and no people.

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    So many birds on the neck!
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    View at Lobo
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    We can’t afford the lodges but we can enjoy the views!
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    Sunrise at Lobo
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    From the campsite
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    That has got to be the best place I have ever camped at!  Although there was no water available and the safari tour guides were horribly noisy from 5am onwards we still wanted to stay.  Sadly, it was time to leave, it would have been good to stay an extra night but prices are extortionate so we carried on to Lake Natron.  The drive to Lake Natron was spectacular both in terms of views and scenery and a pretty bad road.  We passed Loliondo, a largely Maasai area with many Maasai walking on the road to Wasso as it was market day.  The highlight was stopping in Wasso for lunch which turned out to be the usual chips mayay on the street.  This was truly the wild west of Tanzania!  The town was teeming with Maasai and there was a wild, unruly fee to the place.  We needed petrol drove back to the petrol station, well, one pump on the road but no luck.  We were directed to a small shop which turned out to be the local petrol station.

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    Lunch stop
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    Local bus
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    Petrol station
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    Lake Natron is a salt and soda lake with a very high ph, it is not the sort of place where you dip your toes in the water.  Despite its inhospitable nature, the lake is a breeding ground for many life forms including huge numbers of pink flamingos.  The area is hot and incredibly dusty, it feels like being on a deserted, inhospitable, hot moon!

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    View of Lake Natron
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    There’s nothing here!
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    The road
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    Maasai boma
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    Our tent in the bush
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    Ol Doinyo Lengai
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    Joshua at the lake
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    Just to make it a little more desolate, Ol Doinyo Lengai looms in the distance, well, not that far.  Ol Doinyo Lengai means “Mountain of God” in Maasai and is very much an active volcano.  The last eruption was in 2013 and recently people living in the area reported several earthquakes.  Still, all was well during our stay.  We were well lodged at Halisi Camp, an expensive tented camp which I won in a raffle.  It was nice to end our trip in some sort of luxury.  I say sort, as despite the camp being luxurious (it’s relative!), it was hampered by clouds of dust that covered us and our belongings in thick layers of volcano dusty.  The food was delicious and we had a bush TV in the evenings AKA campfire.

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    All alone….
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    Volcano in the evening
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    Scary bridge
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    So to finish off our Lake Natron visit we embarked on a walk to the waterfalls with our trusty Maasai guide.  Apparently you are not allowed to go anywhere without your own Maasai.  As nice as he was, he was like a goat which made following him on the cliffs a little precarious.  I think this was probably one of the most crazy walks I have even done.  We wadded through the river up to our waists at times, clambered on rocks and slipped and fell (I did) all over the place.

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    Eventually we arrived at the falls and what a magnificent sight it was.  The initial fall was surrounded by a large pool of warm water whilst the water from the fall was very cold.  Walking through the waterfall into the other side, we found more waterfalls and pools which turned into rapids.  It was a true oasis!

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    I’m disappearing into the falls….
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    And there was nothing left to do but to make our way back to Moshi!  We found out that the Maasai put up various road blocks where you have to pay a fee to go past.  It costs $25 per person and given that we had not seen a bank for quite some time, we had no money on us.  Geoff went to meet with the Maasai elders to discus the situation and it was agreed that they would give us a letter which ought to allow us to pass for free.  We passed the first gate without peril.  However, after travelling for some distance we came upon the second gate!  There was a Maasai at the post which was a long metal pole padlocked to another pole.  He said the letter was no good and we needed to pay.  As we had no money, this was not going to go well.  It ended up with us telling him we were going to put our tent up and just stay there to which he said no way.  A slight impasse.  During all this I amused myself by playing with their naked baby so as to look very unbothered about the whole situation.  Eventually, he backed down but not after taking the few coins we had and off we went.

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    Volcano in the clouds
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    Quick, close the windows
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    This is my favourite photo!
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    Plenty of dry river beds
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    And so it ends, back to Moshi on yet another dreadful road and time to start thinking about where to go next…

  • Road reveries in Tanzania

    As beautiful as Lake Tanganyika is we can not stay here forever, or can we?  After much deliberation and pondering, we decide to head off in the opposite direction.  Let’s go to Kitavi Park, yes, it is bloody far and the roads are awful but it sounds rather exciting.  We seem to have shed our trepidations about breaking down in the middle of nowhere, in fact, we discuss it and come to the conclusion that we like the feeling of uneasiness that being in the middle of nowhere brings.  So off we go into even wilder territory.

    1023The drive to Katavi Park looks short enough on the map.  As usual it turns out to be a very long way!  The road is so bad that after 20ks we both wonder if we should perhaps turn back.  Of course not, let’s continue, silly idea, maybe the road will improve.  Well, it does not improve at all and it takes hours to cover a few ks.  It is beautiful though and deserted.  Geoff is fretting about petrol, as per usual, I tend to drive way past the reserve light is flashing.  We stop at a small village and get some petrol, they always seem to have some in plastic containers which is handy.  People come to see us and gather around, probably wondering what on earth we are doing there, covered in dust and without petrol.  Still, they are friendly and helpful and I enjoy trying to talk to the women who just giggle and laugh at me.

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    On we go.  We give a lift to a man who appears to be stranded next to his broken motorbike.  He is young and very friendly but not long after we start driving he starts sobbing and sobbing.  Unable to communicate due to language barriers, we continue and hope that he is not a mass murderer as he is sitting next to the kids.  When we finally drop him, he stops crying and will not stop thanking us.  Eventually we manage to “get rid” of him and feel rather relieved.  What was that about?!

    Arriving in Sitalike feels like a victory and the car is still in one piece.  There are two places to stay so not too hard to decide.  Both run down and lacking in facilities so we choose the one closer to the river and the hippos.  It is a beautiful location and our host, a Tanzanian woman from Moshi, is so welcoming and helpful that we fall in love with the place.  She cooks really good food too which makes us very happy and at night she lights a fire for us by the river.  Our little cabin is by the water’s edge and we can see and hear the hippos.  Flora assures us that they are not dangerous and that the fire will keep them away from us.  I agree that they do look extremely cute and cuddly but do some research anyway and find out that after the mosquito, the hippo is the second most dangerous animal in Africa and is responsible for more human fatalities in Africa than any other large animal.  I also think that being so huge they are probably slow but I later observe that they are bloody fast!  So sitting out by the fire in total darkness (there is no electricity here) is not so relaxing after all.  I still think they are cute though.  At night we can hear them walking about and making their incredible calling noises.

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    A whole hotel just for us!

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    River outside the cabin

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    Sunrise

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    Relaxing (kind of) by the hippo river

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    From this base we explore Katavi Park, Tanzania’s third largest national park.  It lies in the remove southwest part of the Tanzania within a truncated arm of the Rift Valley.  It is isolated and seldom visited and a true wilderness.  We spent two days in the park and did not see anybody apart from one safari car with a couple of people.  We got lost as the only track often disappears and the map was useless but eventually found our way back.  The park is beautiful and has two distinctive areas.  One area is mainly lake and has thousands of hippos, the other area is drier and has huge crocodiles, giraffes and elephants.  Funnily enough when we went into the park, the rangers failed to warn us that the elephants are dangerous and not used to humans so that when they see a car they either charge or run away.  We found the first to be true.  I love elephants so was rather excited, as usual, when I spotted a family.  They, however, were not so pleased to see us.  The large male proceeded to waft its massive ears and trumpet.  Ok, I know you are not supposed to run, or in this case drive off very fast, but that is what we did.  Further encounters with elephants were rather scary from then on!

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    Park entrance

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    Out and about in the park

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    Stork

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    Hippos running in the water, they were so fast!!!

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    Hippo pool

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    Spot the hippo

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    Bones….

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    After so much wilderness we are ready to hit the big city.  Mwanza here we come!  The second largest city in Tanzania and we are excited.  There will be shops, restaurants, stuff!  Mwanza turns out to be big, busy and chaotic.  We find that we are craving the wilderness shortly after arriving.  We settle in a “posh” hotel with a pool to try and create some sort of balance.  The hotel is nice enough but we do not like being in a city.  We explore the town.  The market is a nightmare of people, stalls, very narrow passages, barging, noise….  We feel like screaming and go looking for a supermarket instead where we heard you can buy interesting food.  I get excited at the sight of Golden Syrup.  Odd as normally I would not give it a second glance.  I also buy garlic salt and biscuits.  We hike up to Capri Point where you get wonderful views of Lake Victoria and Mwanza and chill by the lake with a drink.  Two nights feels more than enough and we decide to go on to the Serengeti.  Onwards…

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    Roadside boutique

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    Sunset over Mwanza

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    Lake Victoria at dusk

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    Lake Victoria from Capri Point

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    Come on boys!

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    Joshua has got big and strong!

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    Boy crossing the lake on some weird contraption

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    Where to next?

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  • One year on…

    One year on. How did that happen? Life goes on pretty much as before apart from our road trip in July. For lack of anything else to do and tight finances, we decided to hop in the tank and drive west towards Lake Tanganyika. We found that this was a very long way to drive, that the roads were quite dreadful at times, that Tanzania gets wilder as you venture west and that it is a beautiful country. We set off from Moshi, full of promise and enthusiasm for the unknown road ahead. Armed with a tent, provisions and water, what could possibly go wrong? Our destination was Kigoma on the lake, where we aimed to spend a few nights and trek to see the chimps. On the way there we passed some small towns, many tiny villages and not much else.   Stunning views, friendly people, stranded people, broken down cars, overturned lorries, many cows and goats and rivers and very long dusty roads.

    Despite warnings of bandits, breakdowns and poor roads we encountered nothing but kindness.  We are strangers in this country but are welcomed everywhere we go.  We are travellers interested in seeing the country and talking to people and the smiles we get are priceless and welcoming.  People go out of their way to help us, we never feel threatened or frightened and there is always the feeling that whatever happens will be ok.  It is shameful that we do not, in general, give the same welcome to those who choose to come an live in Europe!  Having followed the news about the migrants dying by the hundreds at sea and the ones “trapped” in Calais and being treated like animals, I feel humbled that people here have it in their heart to welcome us as white people who once colonised their country, treated them worse than animals and were part of the slave trade.  Not only that, but some white people continue to profit from the spoils of Africa by continuing to live and exploit the country and the people as they did so in colonial times.

    So how come “we” are still welcomed “here” with open arms, kindness and generosity and “they” are not welcomed “there”?  It saddens me to see such greed and hypocrisy still so entrenched.

    So on a more positive note, get out there and explore.  It is a beautiful country with kind, generous people.  On the road, we stopped to give people lifts and to help those who had broken down.  One car, the only car, in front of us near Kahama, blew a tire.  It went flying off into the bush.  We stopped to help and were met with intense gratitude.  It turned out the guy we helped was the District engineer for Kahama and he insisted on helping us find somewhere to stay.  We ended up sitting with him and some of his colleagues for the evening as they insisted on buying us drink after drink and discussing politics.  We had to refuse dinner and a night out clubbing!

    We had “interesting” breakfasts in the local hotels we stayed at.  A good introduction was liver stew and spaghetti with chicken broth.  What I would have given for a bowl of muesli…  The general chaos was the same in all the towns we passed.  To a western eye, chaos prevails.  Nothing seems to make sense or follow what we tend to see as logical and rational.

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    The long road ahead and nice tarmac too.

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    Only the odd bike for company….

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    One of many local churches

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    Mangoes and more mangoes

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    Local boutique

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    Charcoal transport

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    Water transport

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    Where is the tarmac gone?!

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    Singuida lake

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    Singuida lake

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    Not quite sure what to choose for breakfast….

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    Bananas for the road

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    Typical dusty roads, miles and miles….

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    We stopped in Babati, Singida, Kahama, Kibondo and finally Kigoma.  In Singida region we saw the Nyaturu tribes, in Kahama a huge gold mine and in Kibondo we were transported to a wild west town!  After travelling for over 1,500kms we finally arrived, dusty and in awe of the scenery we had seen, the wilderness and the lack of other white people.  For a time, we were celebrities and aroused great curiosity in the people we came across.  I wonder what it was like 100 years ago and more…

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    Kigoma train station

    Kigoma turned out to be a pleasant small town with a manageable market.  Kigoma the largest port on Lake Tanganyika since historically it was the only one that had a functioning railway connection.  The railway still runs to Kigoma but it is sporadic and unrealiable.  According to Michael Palin: “The train is not in good shape. Most of the windows are broken, and that’s only in First Class. There are, considerately, two types of lavatory, announced on their doors as ‘High Type’ (European) and ‘Low Type’ (non-European). Once we are underway, I approach the High Type, prepared for the worst, only to find that it is not there at all. The High Type has vanished, leaving behind only a hole in the floor.”  The train station at Kigoma is a beautiful building dating from the German times.

    The MV Liemba sails every week from Kigoma to Mpulungu in Zambia at the southern tip of the lake, stopping at a number of other lakeside towns in Tanzania on the way.  It is incredible that this old boat still chugs along the lake.  Built as a warship in Germany, she was carried in pieces overland and assembled on Lake Tanganyika in 1913. At the end of the Great War she was scuttled by the Germans, and lay on the bottom of the lake until raised and refitted by the British in 1922. She was in regular operation as a steamship before being converted to diesel in 1978. After eighty years she remains the only way out of Kigoma to the south or to the west.

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    Still going strong!

    We stayed by the lake in what looked like paradise, beautiful small beach, zebras and monkeys wandering about, no people, no power, peaceful and restful.

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    Hope they do not eat clothes…

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    Sunset over the lake from our camp

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    We visited Ujiji where Stanley famously “found” Dr Livingstone in 1871.  Not a lot there but a small museum with a wonderful guide who met Michael Palin during the filming of Pole to Pole.  He was very excited to speak to us about Palin and asked that we pass on his regards.  The location of this historic meeting is now a small museum in a well-tended garden on a hill above the busy waterfront. A forbidding, lumpish grey monument, ‘erected by the Government of Tanganyika Territory’ in 1927, stands beneath two mango trees said to be descendants of the one under which Livingstone and Stanley met. On it is carved a map of Africa with a cross incised into it. It’s a brutal and arrogant image.  I am not sure how I feel about the place but the locals seem bursting with pride that the “white people” came here to spread religion and to want to give them a better life.  I struggle with my view of colonisation and the local people’s view.  How can we see it in such different ways?  To me, we are arrogant whites coming to Africa spreading religion and civilisation but to most Africans I speak to, we are the ones who brought education, medicine, religion…  I generalise, I know, but I am confused….

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    Maybe another time.

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    Local accommodation in Ujiji

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    “Give my regards to Palin”

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    The remainder of our time in Kigoma was spent by the lake.  Lake Tanganyika is the second largest freshwater lake in the world by volume, and the second deepest.  Having ascertained that the risk of bilharzia is low as the water is not stagnant, that crocodiles would not come in this far and sea serpents are all we had to watch out for, I we made the most of the lake. The water was clear and cool, the surroundings quite beautiful. No sailing boats or water-sporters to disturb the peace. Only the barely perceptible wake of a passing dugout troubles the placid water.  It felt like the Caribbean in Africa and without people. Monkeys came to the water to drink, fish swam around us (lots of cichlids), zebras walked about the forest, not much else…

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    To finish off this leg of our journey we visited Gombe National Park, previous home of the famous Jane Goodall.

    There are no roads to Gombe Park so we take a trip on a local boat to the entrance.  The scenery along the lakeshore is stunning, green mountains and troops of baboons entertain us on out long journey.  We pass packed boats coming from Burundi and the Congo, we exchange curious stares…

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    We finally reach the park where more baboons roam on the beach and start our trek with the obligatory guide who assures us we will find the chimps.  We walk through beautiful forest, there are no other people apart from a couple of small groups leaving the park.  We pass by Jane Goodall’s house and continue uphill.

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    Beach at Gombe Park

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    Our boat

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    An hour or so later, we find a chimp high up on a tree.  It’s breakfast time for chimps and they like to eat high up on the trees.  We wait and wait and start thinking that this is it, they are not coming down until one comes down and them another and another!  They walk right past our legs and suddenly an excited whoop erupts from deep in the forest, boosted immediately by a dozen other voices, rising in volume and tempo and pitch to a frenzied shrieking crescendo. We are warned that they are hunting monkeys and that we should be careful.

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    A spot of grooming

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    That is close!

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    Baby teeth

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    .Well, that was quite amazing and so we continued our walk through the forest up to the waterfalls where we sat for a while taking it all in.

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    Back to camp and onwards to more destinations.

    To be continued…

  • Gallavanting in Tanzania!

    Time flies…  It has been a while since my last blog in January and a lot has happened and changed.  We are feeling more settled, the rollercoaster seems to be less pronounced and most of the time, I have been feeling like I do not want to leave Tanzania.  However, this week, I have suddenly become very homesick and want to see friends, shops, food, familiar places…  That is the way it goes and then I go outside and find a chameleon in the garden and it is beautiful and it is changing colour and I feel happy!

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    Life in Moshi is quiet and pleasant.  There is little to do and I have found that making things is the way forward.  I no longer fret that I cannot buy certain foods so I make them instead when possible.  I have developed a delicious passata recipe with fresh tomatoes and fresh basil which I grow myself.  I make bread and biscuits and have become more creative on how I use ingredients.  It is very satisfying going back to basics and it feels good.  My voluntary work for a children’s charity (Childreach Tanzania) is nice, not stressful and enjoyable.  I do like it, my colleagues, all Tanzanian, are lovely and fun.  I get a free lunch homemade by the office cook and it is pretty good local food.  I do a lot of writing which I enjoy and work alongside the communications manager.  Children at a school where we installed a water tap.

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    We went to the annual Moshi motorcross which was very exciting and incredibly dusty, my shower water was brown afterwards.  I wonder how my lungs were.  It was pretty wild, people cheering, hugging and generally a very chilled and happy atmosphere.

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    BFF Ida and Maz

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    Geoff and the kids are happy. We love our adventures out of Moshi.  The tank is great as it takes us pretty much anywhere.  Most recently we went to Pangani where we slept outside on a patio on a cliff overlooking the sea.  It was beautiful!  At night, we were surrounded by hundreds of fireflies, magical.  There were mongoose and monkeys running about, ducks and chickens, millipedes, so many animals and bugs and no people!  We explored Tanga city which turned out to be quite interesting in terms of architecture and people.  Tanga sits on the Indian Ocean near the Kenyan border and has a colourful history, as the coastal town closest to Kenya, Tanga was on the front line at the start of World War I. A British landing was thrown back on 4 November 1914 in the Battle of Tanga, and the town was not taken until 7 July 1916.  There are quite a few tasty places to eat and plenty of Indian food and I got rather excited by the local supermarket which had stuff I could not buy in Moshi.  I even bought a butter dish, small things…

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    A room with a view!

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    Hammock time!

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    One of the coves at Pangani, no people!

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    We then went off to Lushoto high up in the Usambara Mountains.  Stunning scenery, too hard to capture in photographs.  This is a good panorama of the view from Mambo: http://www.mamboviewpoint.org/MamboViewPointMain/Photoalbum/PanorameMvP/index.html.  When you stand on the ledge, you look around and see Africa coming into view, you can see for miles and miles…  Mountains, hills, lakes, green plantations all coming out from under hazy clouds, it is almost unreal and so vast you could look at it for hours.  Mambo and Mtae villages are perched at the highest point on the mountains, Mtae stands at 2,400 meters and is a small village built on the ridge of the mountain with amazing views on either side.  Driving through the area was one of the most beautiful things I have ever done.  According to local lore, this colourful vantage point is the spot where Sambara watchmen once stood guard to look for invading Maasai warriors approaching from the plains. In order to warn the village, they would count exactly how many Maasai were on their way — hence the name Mtae, the Sambara word for “counting”.

    Walking around is a pleasure, it is rare to come across anyone unless you are walking through a village.  Some lovely photos I found on the web: http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20120518-life-in-the-usambara-mountains.  Local residents are so excited to see a mzungo (white person) that they come out to greet you and the children call and shout for your attention, sometimes trying out their English with calls of “how are you” but are often too shy to come too close.  There are so many children here, everywhere you go, they come out in droves and want to look at you and show you the local two horned chameleons.  Oddly, the locals seem scared of these animals and run away if you go close to them with the chameleon.

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    Mambo View Point, the most fantastic view!

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    Friendly two horned chameleon

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    Walking in the Usambara Mountains

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    So to add to our adventure, we heard that there was a very steep road that would take us all the way down the mountain.  We were warned not to do it in the rain and we are in the rainy season but that was no deterrent.  As it was, the road was more like a dried out rocky, very steep, slippery river bed with sharp bends and the most amazing views to distract you from keeping your eyes on the road.  Needless to say, we did not encounter any other cars on this road and going down was fine as there is only one road so no chance of getting lost.  An hour or so later we found ourselves at the bottom in a sandy, acacia filled area.  Suddenly there was no longer a road!  Geoff did some tracking and found the odd motorbike track on the sand so off we went chasing the faint tracks on the sand.  We ended up driving onto a riverbed which got deeper and deeper and decided that it was perhaps best to “climb” out whilst we still could.  In this fashion we continued our journey until we somehow came to a village in the middle of nowhere and were able to eventually find the road.

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    Geoff checking out the river bed

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    No safety railings!

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    We also visited Lake Manyara National Park which stretches for 50kms along the base of the 600 metre high Rift Valley escarpment.  According to Ernest Hemingway it is “the loveliest I had seen in Africa”.  The park is beautiful and the road winds through an expanse of lush jungle forest where hundreds of baboons lounge nonchalantly along the roadside, blue monkeys scamper between the mahogany trees, and forest hornbills honk in the high canopy.  Across the alkaline lake, to the jagged blue volcanic peaks that rise from the endless Maasai Steppes, we saw zebra herds and giraffes – some so dark that they appear to be black from a distance. Sadly the tree-climbing lions were not about but we did see some massive hippos lounging in the hot springs that steam and bubble.

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    Our little tent

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    On the way back to Moshi, we passed a Maasai village and decided to stop by and have a look.  We were warmly welcomed by a Maasai that spoke English and was happy to answer our curious questions.  To welcome us, the Maasai men did one of their traditional dances which involves some jumping up and down whilst the women sang.   We had a tour of the village which was small and basic.  We learnt that the Maasai live in Kraals arranged in a circle. The fence around the kraal is made of acacia thorns, which prevent lions from attacking the cattle. It is a man’s responsibility to fence the kraal. While women construct the houses. The Inkajijik (maasai word for a house) are loaf-shaped and made of mud, sticks, grass, cow dung and cow’s urine. Women are responsible for making the houses as well as supplying water, collecting firewood, milking cattle and cooking for the family. Warriors are in charge security while boys are responsible for herding livestock. During the drought season, both warriors and boys assume the responsibility for herding livestock and can walk for up to 50 kms per day.  Traditionally, the Maasai rely on meat, milk and blood from cattle for protein and caloric needs.  I wanted to talk to the Maasai about circumcision but he became silent and changed the subject but I did find that both boys and girls undergo the same fate!  If you are as fascinated as I am by the Maasai then this is pretty accurate and easy to read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maasai_people.  There is of course a huge amount of more detailed information!

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    These guys are way better than Ray Mears!!

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    Some kind of welcoming dance. Geoff declined to join in!

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    Women singing

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    An embarrassing shot…

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    To finish off, George’s story!  George and his young brother have been our weekend gardeners since we arrived.  They have no father and struggle to support themselves, often going hungry.  George works hard and has been out of school for 3 years so we decided to help him to go back.  His brother Michael has a free place at a government school but George has not been so lucky!  So, having asked friends for help with George’s school, on behalf of George we send you a HUGE thank you and a HUGE smile from George.  He is so happy to be back at school and to have hope for his future.  If you would still like to donate let me know and I will send you details.  All the money you donate will go towards George’s school costs, there will be no deductions or fees!  So once a social worker always a social worker and proud of it!

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    George in our garden

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    First day back at school – very happy!

    Until next time…

  • Christmas in Zanzibar!

    Christmas in Zanzibar!.

  • Christmas in Zanzibar!

    Zanzibar…  The land of mystery and exoticism, well in my mind anyway!  We arrive in Dar after a very long bus journey from Moshi.  Dar is hot and sweaty, feels like we have just stepped into a dusty, noisy sauna.  The opposite of relaxing.  The guidebook confidently states that there is little sightseeing to be done in Dar although it is good for souvenir shopping.  We are excited about visiting a large bookshop which has excellent reviews but after walking around for what seems like a sweaty eternity, we find a building site.  A passer-by duly informs us that that used to be the bookshop!  Oh well…  The kids spot a Kentucky Fried Chicken or was it a Burger King and we drag them away amongst cries of “it’s not fair” and “we are hungry”.  We tell them we did not come to Tanzania to eat junk food, what does that mean anyway?  I now feel that perhaps we ought to have let them have their fill of “Westernised” junk. They do not have the same appreciation for the local food, well, can’t say that I do either and secretly maybe I wanted a bit of junk food too…

    Anyway, after a boat ride, we finally arrive in Stone Town.  Getting on the boat proves to be yet another sweaty endeavour.  People jostle to pass through the narrow passage that leads onto the boat and there is no personal space or polite “excuse me”.  We decide to come back VIP instead of economy.  A decision which will prove to be rather pleasant on our return.

    Stone Town’s inner city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 and is a most unique and city. It is a blend of Moorish, Middle Eastern, Indian, and African traditions and architectures.  We spend quite a few hours winding through Stone Town’s labyrinthine alleys.  The atmosphere is amazing, it feels old, full of history.  In the alleyways there are children playing, women cooking, bicycles and motorbikes occasionally mean that you have to squish against the wall and there are hundreds of cats everywhere!

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    For some history on Stone Town: http:/whc.unesco.org/en/list/173, also has some good photos of Stone Town.

    I also recommend a very good book, The Last Slave Market by Alastair Hazell.

    Finally it was time to make our way to Jambiani to see what all the fuss is about the beaches in Zanzibar.  Well, we were not disappointed!  We stayed in Stone House, a lovely house right on the beach and run by a most delightful couple, Peter and Eva.  Peter is originally from Zanzibar and Eva is Swedish and they were the perfect hosts, not only that but they love reggae so not only was I on a beautiful beach, I also had good reggae playing to help me sway with the coconut trees.  Sometimes, life is pretty good…  Jambiani is a long (very long) beach behind which is a long (very long) village.  The beach is used by the villagers to grow seaweed, to bury coconut shells, fishing and playing.  It is a lively and friendly place and it makes you feel like you could stay there forever.  A typical day includes breakfast looking out to sea, walks on the beach, a swim or two, lunch, sleep, walk, swim, dinner.  All this interspersed with the odd chat with the locals and a play with the local kids.  One of the most beautiful things was waiting for the tide to go out and then wade through the seaweed farms up to the beautiful, clear, blue pools where we would lie down and stare into the blue sky and blue sea.  Whilst lazing in one of these pools, I saw something floating, it was the most beautiful blue colour and for some bizarre reason I felt the need to pick it up.  It turned out to be a blue bottle jellyfish, a small one at that but nonetheless bloody painful.  So, children, do not pick anything that you see.  Although, sadly, I have not yet learnt this lesson as there are always many fascinating bugs and things I want to pick up!

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    Whilst in Jambiani, we went to the Blue Lagoon where we snorkelled with hundreds of fish and visited other parts of the island.  Zanzibar is relatively small and we were able to go north and south where we saw forests, butterflies and more beautiful beaches.  On the 31st December, we watched the annual Dhow boat race in Jambiani.  The beach was teeming with people, women in colourful clothes, music and dancing and a very relaxed and festive atmosphere.  Being in Jambiani made me feel glad to be in Africa and I feel I could easily have stayed there for a long time.  We managed to eventually frag ourselves away back to Moshi.  Back to work.  Back to what is now our routine.

    Since then we have acquired 7 chicks and one cat and we are waiting for the ducklings to hatch so we can being them home.  I feel like I am in the throws of starting an animal sanctuary of some sort and it seems like a marvellous idea.  Work remains elusive despite a promising job interview (I am still waiting to hear 3 weeks later!).  Maybe animals will fill the gap…  Geoff is happy, Joshua loved it and Marianne misses the shops in England!  I have a love/hate relationship with the place.  Some days are wonderful and the place is so beautiful and others everything feels like it is rubbing me up the wrong way.  A bit like England, I suppose….  Except I am never cold!  Oh and the smell of the frangipani trees is truly amazing, and I miss my good friends like crazy!

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    I wonder what next….

  • Musings…

    Has it really been four months?!  How time flies…  It has been an interesting time.  First of all the excitement of coming and arriving, followed by utter bewilderment and confusion.  We are suddenly thrown into a strange country with a language we do not understand.  The roads are alien and made of dirt with no signs or directions; there is no postman/woman!  We can not find anything we need in the shops as they are all foreign to us, they seem to sell a mixture of odd things which do not make sense.  Where to buy food?  Where to buy paracetamol?  What about clothes pegs and soap powder and shampoo and a dish drainer and chicken or fruit…  Help!  We are lost and confused!  Slowly, slowly (polepole) the fog starts to clear, we find the things we need, it takes time and more time but we get there.  As someone told us, he was happy when he managed to achieve a task per day, I can relate to that.

    The next stage is anger and frustration.  What the hell am I doing here?  Why did we come here?  Who are these people, they drive me mad!  Nothing makes sense, it is hopeless, no work, no friends, no nice food to cook with, no communication…  I feel desperate, alone, far from home and homesick.  I want my friends, my home, my cats, my oven but not my job!  What to do…  I fall into an abyss of darkness where I hate everything and everywhere, there is nowhere to run. I am trapped here, in Moshi, in Africa, in this house!  I cry and cry and go round in circles.

    Until, one day I look outside and it is so beautiful.  The garden is green and lush, there are hornbills, kingfishers, and so many other birds I do not know, butterflies, lizards, bugs and the mountains in the background.  Sometimes Kili comes out and it is magnificent, some days it is covered in snow, some days the whole mountain is visible.  I start to appreciate my surroundings, the market, the fresh food, the mamas who chat to me even though they overcharge me!  Some words become understandable and the streets look more familiar.

    Phew I think I am enjoying being here!  Some everyday photos of bugs and views.

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    We make the odd day trip to surrounding areas and see some beautiful places.  Mataruti waterfall at 150 metres high is pretty impressive.  The walk itself is interesting going past smaller waterfalls and lots of waterways which are part of the irrigation system of the local farmers who grow coffee, bananas and many other fruits and vegetables.  The waterfall when we see it is beautiful, tall and majestic.  There is a small pool at the bottom and although the water is very cold, we swim and make it to the other side of the fall where there is a small cave where you can sit and look out onto the pool and the valley.  There are rainbows around the pool and so many birds… 

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    The village is located at a height of around 1300 m (4300 ft) above sea level is set within a dramatic landscape of high rises and deep valleys, all covered by tropical rain forest.  The views are magnificent, you can see for miles and miles, savannah and mountains and the shimmering heat on the plains.  We sip a cold drink as we sit in a local bar.  They offer us banana wine which is disgusting and very strong.  Geoff likes it and is very merry on the drive back home!  I also try banana beer which is worse than the wine, it is banana juice mixed with fermented milled which floats in lumps in the beer.  It looks like sick!

    One thing we have done on a few occasions is to take part in the Hash.  This is a circular walk of around 5 kms organised by local wazungus.  One particular wak was incredibly beautiful, we climbed up pretty high and got the most breathtaking views.  It is a good way to meet people although we seem to be slower than all the others and usually end up walking by ourselves. I tend to get distracted taking photos and talking to the local children to Geoff and the kids’s annoyance!

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    The next chapter is Christmas in Zanzibar followed by maybe another safari.  We are planning on spending time in Dar Es Salaam, Stone Town and Jambiani beach.  The holidays are nearly 4 weeks so plenty of exploring time!  More to follow.

     

  • Yay it’s the holidays!!!

    So the holidays finally arrived and after much deliberation on where to go we decided to hit the beach, the jungle and a safari park, we called this a compromise!  There are so many places we want to visit that choosing is not an easy task.  The problem is everything is so, so far and the roads are so, so bad…

    Anyway, off we went to Amani Forest Reserve, up in the clouds, a veritable jungle, out in the sticks.  It was meant to be a stopover point on the way to the coast but the roads are bad and slow.  We had a puncture on  the way and after much searching decided we had no jack or spanner (in fact we found out that we did a few days later!).  Some kind souls took pity on us and sent for help from the next village.  We were left to wait by the side of the road pondering our fate and wondering if anyone was going to turn up, it was 5pm and it is pitch black by 6.30 and we were still a way from our destination.  Our rescuer came on a motorbike with the necessary tools and tyre was eventually changed.  Off we went to the mountains, driving most of the way by then in the dark without any idea which small tracks to take!  At one point, we found a man on the side of he road and he said he knew the way so he was invited to ride with us.  Not a good idea as it turned out he was drunk, took us to the wrong place and then a few other people tried to get into the car too.  We managed to drive off and continued on our blind drive.  Two and a half hours later we found the campsite, had dinner and put the tent up looking forward to waking up in the jungle to the sound of birds and going for a walk.  It poured with rain through the night and most of the next day so we were left with a soggy tent and a very muddy, slippery mountain road to drive down on!  Still, we look back on this with fondness and wonder if we will ever make it up there again…

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    So off we carried on to Ushongo Beach which turned out to be a lot further than expected due to awful road conditions yet again.  Getting the puncture fixed turned out to be difficult due to power cuts so we had to drive out of our way to the next town to get this sorted before going onto the coast.  Once again we managed to arrive at our destination in the dark and woke up to heavy rain!  Ushongo Beach is a truly beautiful beach, lined with coconut and palm trees, white sand and the Indian Ocean.  It is also very quiet and we had the beach to ourselves for practically the whole week.  Ushongo itself is a traditional Swahili Muslim fishing village, its people little affected by tourism; theirs is a way of life apparently governed by the tides, their community spilling right out of their palm-leaf houses and onto the shore.  Ushongo  Beach is protected by three reefs although we did not go snorkeling this time, next time…  Some rain, some sun, swimming, nice food and plenty of relaxing with lots of time to ponder where we could go next!  During our stay we met the beach basket man on his bicycle and some school children who were fascinated by our binoculars, plenty of millipedes of varying sizes and a few weird jellyfish.

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    From the beach we visited Pangani town across the river, Pangani became an important centre of the slave trade, shipping captives taken in the wars attendant on the collapse of the Shambaa kingdom in the Usambara mountains to the plantations of Pemba and Zanzibar.  After the Sultan of Zanzibar signed treaties with Great Britain outlawing the ocean-going trade in slaves in 1873, Pangani became a centre for smuggling slaves across the narrow channel to Pemba, in evasion of British warships.  I  have learnt all this by reading “The Last Slave Market”.  Although steeped in history, nothing much remains now and Pangani is a crumbling town!  it’s said to date back more than 1,000 years and to have long been a significant stop on the East African dhow route established by Arab traders.  More modest accounts peg its origins to the 15th century.  Pangani grew into a prosperous port connecting the inland caravan route from Lake Tanganyika to the sea; ivory and slaves left from here, while missionaries and explorers arrived here to begin their journeys inland.  The oldest building is the Old Boma (1810), built as the home of a well-to-do Omani trader who had slaves buried alive in the foundations, supposedly in order to strengthen them. Although the building was greatly modified by the Germans, it retains its original, handsomely carved wood doors.  Just a little bit of history to make it a little more interesting….

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    So after relaxing on the beach, what better way to end the holiday than by going on safari with a tent and the trusty tank. Off we went to Tarangire National Park.  We camped just outside the park although this makes no difference as there are no fences and the animals can roam where they damn well please!  Tarangire is truly beautiful and it is the sixth largest national park in Tanzania.  It is famous for its large numbers of elephants, tree climbing lions and baobab trees.  On the way there you drive through the Maasai Steppe, the area dotted with Maasai villages, Maasai herders and a desolate landscape that seems to stretch out forever into the horizon.  The Maasai are gentle people and the women’s beadwork is truly amazing but that will be another blog…

    The campsite was a dusty, very basic affair, at night it was pitch black which made toilet trips speak for quite scary!!!  The park itself is beautiful with breath taking scenery, amazing birds, hundreds of elephants, zebra and giraffe to mention a few.  We went to a posh lodge for a swim and admired the $500 per night views (cost for the 4 of us per night with a discounted residents rate – hence the camping!).  It is easy to drive around and made us realise how much safari companies must make!!  We spent one evening and a day in the park, see photos as themselves – it felt like being in a David Attenborough programme, we even saw a dead elephant being eaten by vultures.

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    So we are now back home and back at work and school.  Life feels more settled here and we are finding where to buy food and be more comfortable.  We like the house and the garden and have acquired quite a few staff!  One cleaner and 4 gardeners, all local people who need money a jobs which is a good way to help them.  Life here is relaxed and laid back with few expectations.  Labour is cheap and there are plenty of people to help, staff carry your shopping basked in the shops, pack your shopping and take it to your car!  I feel I hardly have to do anything…  It is a very different way of life and it takes some getting used to but I shall leave that for another blog.

     

  • Rollercoater ride!

    Going into the 7th week and I feel I have been on a high speed, scary rollercoaster ride!  Things are starting to feel a little more familiar but life here still seems a long way from what I am used to and I guess it will probably continue to feel this way.  The house is more homely and we are spending time improving the garden.  The garden is lovely and has beautiful views of the hills, and of Kilimanjaro in the evenings when the clouds clear and the sun is shinning on its snowy peak.  The house needs more furniture and more home furnishings but as they say here “pole pole” (slowly), it is getting there.

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    Some days have been horrendous, I have hated it and have cried and have wondered why the hell I am here!!!  Other days I have felt I could stay here for quite some time.  It is such a shock and such a different world…  I have relaxed, read what feels like hundreds of books, cleaned, tidied, shopped and slept and am now ready for a change.  I have been offered two paid jobs which is extraordinary as really was not expecting it and was lead to believe that this would not be possible!  One is at the school, one day a week as a Volunteer Coordinator.  It is a new role and involves recruiting, supporting and monitoring volunteers who will run extra curricular activities.  I am in the process of designing how it is going to work and it is rather enjoyable but not particularly challenging.  The other job is full time but flexible and is for a charity.  They run two hostels where volunteers stay and my role will be to facilitate the recruitment, support, do the accounts and whatever else needs doing.  They have 20 projects in the area and over 50 volunteers so I will be busy and it should be interesting.  They also run a safari company so lots of insider info on safaris!!  The office is in their house, it is a small room overlooking a tempting pool which I am welcome to use when I get hot – I might get very hot on a regular basis!  They also give me toasted sandwiches for lunch.  So with both jobs we should be pretty comfortable and I shall not be bored at home anymore!  I am looking forward to meeting the volunteers and visiting the projects and maybe get involved in some safari stuff.  A bit different from social work, thank goodness!!

    Geoff has been on a hardcore first aid course which covered snake bites, altitude sickness and all sorts of tropical stuff so there is no need to worry about such matters anymore.  Joshua continues to enjoy school and likes it here, Marianne is struggling a little but seems generally happy.  Our dog is growing well but is a useless guard dog despite the security guard’s attempts at making her more vicious.  Still waiting for pussycats…

    So nothing much has happening until this weekend when we suddenly decided to take ourselves on safari!  And why not.  So picnic packed, off we went in the tank to Arusha National Park, about an hour’s drive from our house.  As we got close to the park entrance the car started billowing smoke and we had to stop in the wilderness.  After looking aimlessly into the engine for quite some time, we decided to fill the radiator and lo and behold the tank was happy once again!  We were warned that if you break down you just wait and someone will help you as there are no recovery services, as it was the very few passers by who walked by just stopped and stared at us!  We continued into the park where we had to fight to get past a bunch of guides at a very, very small ticket window.  it took over half an hour to buy the tickets but eventually we were in.  As soon as we drove in we spotted the elephants who apparently are not easy to see (not sure why as they are massive) but there they were!

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    As we drove on we spotted Colobus monkeys, blue monkeys and many, many troupes of baboons.  It felt like being in a David Attenborough documentary.  Most animals were close to us and it was quiet and beautiful  It was great to go in our tank so that we could stop anywhere we wanted and for as long as we wanted.

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    The last picture is not mine but shows what they look like!!

    We carried on to the crater where buffalo were grazing and when it opened into savannah we saw the giraffes and zebras!

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    Baby giraffe!

    We ended with the huge lakes where thousands of pink flamingos are nesting at the moment.  Although this is not the biggest park it was extremely beautiful and very easy to drive around.

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    The next day, Geoff and I went on a walk around the area where we live.  We got lost and ended up walking for a couple of hours.  We walked though a huge coffee plantation which slowly became more and more tropical opening onto fields of bananas and papaya trees and into a beautiful village.  We were treated like celebrities with people wanting to shake our hands and practice their English as well as many children who wanted to touch us!!  Very odd as we are used to walking about and being ignored…  And we saw these weird birds, anyone know what they are?!  They were rather large and sounded like small planes when they flew above our heads!

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    More adventures to follow in a few weeks.  We are driving down to the coast in three weeks time and going via some mountains and villages.