lisbonchick

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I love adventure and exploring new places.

  • Life in Mozambique: Our First Three Months

    We got offered the jobs back in December so it has seemed like a long wait to get here. We finally landed on the 2nd August and now it was time to start getting settled. It is funny how there is so much excitement and stress beforehand, so much to do, so much preparation and then there is the slump where you are finally here and reality hits… Mozambique was particularly challenging with the paperwork required. It took us 7 months to get it all done and to get the visas which we did a few days before we were due to get on the plane. We were warmly welcomed in Maputo and taken good care of, great start.

    Our container leaving Phuket!

    A shipping container filled with neatly stacked cardboard boxes labeled 'USP RELoCATIONS' in various sizes.
    A shipping container marked with Maersk branding, displaying various specifications on its back, parked in a yard with a partly cloudy sky in the background.
    A cluttered kitchen space filled with unpacked boxes and items after a move, showcasing a mix of kitchen utensils, food containers, and luggage.
    Chaos!!
    A welcoming display of various fruits including bananas, apples, oranges, and a pineapple, along with a greeting note and a chocolate bar, set on a colorful patterned cloth beside water bottles and a woven bag.

    The first few days were spent shopping, eating (a lot! the food is pretty good here), sightseeing and getting to know the place. This is Dhow, a beautiful place with amazing sunsets and some furniture made of old ammunition left from the war.

    A panoramic view of Maputo, Mozambique, showcasing the coastline, a river, and cityscape under a dramatic cloudy sky.
    A scenic view of a creative outdoor living space featuring a decorative wall with mirrors, plants, and a stairway leading to a rooftop, overlooking a river with palm trees in the distance.
    Mirror reflecting Maputo
    A beautiful sunset over the skyline of Maputo, Mozambique, with palm trees in the foreground and a bridge in the background.
    Exterior view of a historic museum building with ornate architecture, palm trees, and a clear blue sky.
    Natural History Museum
    Graffiti in the Baixa
    A colorful mural on a building featuring the phrase 'TRIUNFAR NA DIFERENÇA' along with a child's portrait and silhouettes of people walking.
    Exterior view of the historic train station in Maputo, Mozambique, featuring a grand architectural design with a domed roof and palm trees in the foreground.
    A grand colonial-style building featuring ornate architecture and a large clock, set against a clear blue sky with palm trees in the foreground.

    The old train station built between 1908 and 1916 is truly beautiful and well worth a visit both inside and out. I can’t find any information on where the trains go so I guess we won’t be going anywhere by train soon…

    When I first came to Mozambique in 1993, I went to a lovely stretch of beach just outside Maputo and I have fond memories of swimming in the sea there. Even though the weather wasn’t great, we decided to go to Macaneta beach, about 40 minutes away. It is a wild stretch of beach with large waves and no people although apparently it can get very busy once the summer arrives.

    Two people riding horses on a sandy beach with greenery in the background and a clear blue sky.

    We also explored a local fisherman’s village near our house where you can buy fish and seafood on the street and have it cooked in very rustic shacks overlooking the sea. A lively place with great atmosphere and no electricity, got pretty dark and everyone was eating by the light of their phones!

    A person sitting on a colorful boat with a thoughtful expression, overlooking the calm sea with small fishing boats in the background.
    This was the table, when I say rustic, I mean rustic!

    We had a long weekend, so what better way to explore than to go down to Ponta do Ouro. The closest beach to Maputo that is decent and has scuba diving. Diving here is not like Thailand! The water is cold and we had to wear 5mm wetsuits which made us all look totally ridiculous. The best bit is that you get taken out on a speed boat, jumping over the waves and holding on for dear life. Coming back in is even more hairy, as you approach the beach, the boat’s engine is revved to the max and you go flying up the beach onto the sand. They do tell you to hold on tight…

    Warning sign depicting an elephant interacting with a car, set against a cloudy sky and an open landscape.
    The beaches are simply incredible with lots of humpback whales and dolphins playing in the water
    A couple smiling for a selfie on a beach with waves and a sandy shore in the background.

    There’s a peacock outside my window!! Apparently they come over from the Portuguese International School next door. This seems to be his favourite perch. And, an owl outside my room! And a monkey outside my house!

    A peacock perched on a wooden ledge with vibrant green and blue feathers, surrounded by a rustic building and greenery.

    One of the benefits from living here is the close proximity to South Africa’s Kruger National Park, one of the largest game reserves in Africa, covering an area of 20,000 km2. It is about 2.5 hours drive away although the border crossing can prove to be challenging. It took us 3 hours to make it across, not great, but apparently it is not always this bad. Kruger has a large number of animals and we were impressed with what we saw. However, we missed the wilderness that we encountered in the Tanzanian parks. Kruger is very organised. Paved roads, service stations, petrol, restaurants, souvenir shops, fenced campsites… Not my kind of thing but the animals were great. We saw pretty much everything apart from leopards and rhinos.

    Sunset
    Close-up of an elephant standing in a grassy area with bush vegetation in the background.
    Yes, he was that close!
    Spot the elies
    Geoff exploring
    Wildebeest at sunset
    Elephant crossing!

    We had a mid term break in October and some time to explore Mozambique. We were recommended to go north to Tofu beach, next to the town of Inhambane. Tofu is a cute, small village with a few restaurants and places to stay. The beach is wild and empty – there’s a theme here! We didn’t know that this is where most of the teachers, parents and students go to during the October break so there were plenty of people to bump into.

    Inhambane is a sleepy town of about 80,000 people and is described as one of the prettiest towns in Mozambique. It was indeed very nice with lots of old buildings and large tree lined avenues. It has a small museum and an old church and remnants of old colonialism. We heard there was a statue of Vasco da Gama in the main square so we set off to find this old relic. We finally found him in a scrap yard down a back street. Funniest thing ever!! Apparently nobody wants him but not quite sure what to do with him, he has been relegated to some back year where is regularly topples over! The town has a long pier where you get beautiful views of the city and the bay and a decent local market with much better prices that you get in Tofu beach.

    A tranquil view of a serene waterway featuring several anchored boats and a charming red-roofed building along the shore under a cloudy sky.

    The area around Tofu is very beautiful with long, wild, sweeping beaches. Less developed than Tofu and with a popular kite surfing area, this felt like a special place. Not much there, a few places to stay and a great restaurant – the Green Turtle. On the way there, we stopped at a raised, wooden mangrove walk which took us to some fishermen and some interesting shadows under the pier.

    Underneath a wooden structure, mangrove roots are covered in barnacles, creating intricate patterns on the sandy floor.
    A close-up view of mangrove roots and the sandy ground beneath, featuring barnacles and shadows creating patterns in the sand.
    Drying fish

    And so, we come to an end of our first 3 months here! Lots more to explore and learn in this beautiful place. It has its challenges and moving is not easy but we are finally settling in. We are lucky to be able to explore and to have such easy access to beautiful places in and around Mozambique. I like Maputo and it has much to offer. There is a vibrant art culture here and we have seen some great music such as Bongeziwe Mabandla, from South Africa. Highly recommend having a listen to his latest album reviewed here in The Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/music/2023/apr/28/bongeziwe-mabandla-amaxesha-review. See if you can spot Geoff!

    A vibrant live music performance featuring a shirtless singer engaging with an enthusiastic crowd in a dimly lit venue.

    Currently, there is a dance festival, Kikani, taking place. There are many interesting shows at affordable prices. The venues are simple and intimate and it is a good way to meet other people outside of school. Another great show that is currently on tour, opened the festival last night, very impressive performance. Here is a short video: https://fb.watch/om0rIVbWDV/ for those who like modern dance, Bantu de Victor Pontes from Portugal, a collaboration between Portugal and Mozambique.

    To finish off, here is a dung beetle doing its thing, some beautiful waterfalls in Nelspruit in South Africa and a candelabra tree.

  • From Thailand to Edinburgh: A Journey of Memories

    We left Thailand behind after a full seven years. What a ride that was! So much happened in that time. We learnt to scuba dive, went on many adventures, I finished another masters, did teacher training, set up a counselling practice. We lived in Bangkok and Phuket, fostered many cats, fell in love with Misty dog, mourned Misty and a few cats passing…. Watched countless sunsets and swam in warm oceans, walked through jungles and went on many boat journeys. It was sad to leave but it was time. Time for a new adventure and a new job, time to meet new people and explore new places. Thailand will always be in our hearts and we will forever cherish those memories. But, before Mozambique, it was time for yet another European summer. As you know, my blogs are more about documenting things with photos, so here it goes!

    We finally made it to Edinburgh to see where Joshua and Sandra are living. Edinburgh is such a beautiful city but after Thailand it was rather chilly and we had to stock up on warm clothing which oddly has come in handy in Maputo! Our walkabouts through the city took us to many places… Their flat is by a lovely canal and I found some graffiti, of course! Edinburgh Castle is visible from many parts of the city and although it looks austere there is a beauty to it. It was a pleasure to walk around the city and to be shown sights and places that Joshua and Sandra enjoy going to.

    View of Edinburgh Castle from a cobblestone street lined with stone buildings and greenery under a clear blue sky.
    The castle!
    A building in Edinburgh adorned with a colorful floral installation, with views of Edinburgh Castle in the background against a clear blue sky.

    We visited Dean Village in the Stockbridge district. Until the nineteenth century it was an independent village in the shadow of Edinburgh. The village is on The Water of Leith, the main river that flows past Edinburgh to the sea via the Firth of Forth. Dean Village was best known for its many mills, which were used to grind grain. It is now a residential area with beautiful houses and views. Way out of our price range!

    A person standing in a shallow stream surrounded by green foliage, reflecting in the water.
    Don’t ask….

    We went to Carlton Hill, in the centre of the city and so easily accessible. Amazing views of the city and Arthur’s Seat, and a selection of historic monuments.

    We travelled to Brighton by train, a very nice journey and a lot cheaper than flying. Brighton remains the same but it is always good to see friends and spend time with family. We managed to see some live music, enjoyed Don Letts at the Concorde 2 and found some cool graffiti, good to see Jah Shaka immortalized on the streets of Brighton!

    As it seems to happen every year, we made our way to Portugal, ready to depart to Maputo from there. We explored Olhão in the Algarve, a cute small town by the water’s edge, gateway to our favourite island, Armona. Olhão is an old fishing village but more recently has become popular with tourists. There are still plenty of good places to eat, great cafes and the riverside walk is lovely in the evenings.

    A narrow street in a coastal town with whitewashed buildings and blue accents, adorned with blooming flowers under a clear blue sky.
    View from our house
    A decorated wall featuring blue and white tiles with wooden displays of carved figurines and candles arranged on a metallic shelf.
    An interior space decorated with blue and white tiles, featuring a depiction of two figures on the wall. There is a rack with multiple doll figures hanging, red candles lit on a shelf, and some greenery in the corner.
    A traditional fishing boat docked at a pier with yellow topped posts, surrounded by calm water and a light sky in the background.
    Street art mural featuring an illustration of a man in a suit on a garage door, surrounded by colorful graffiti and weathered walls. A sign for a Mercury service is visible above.
    Two dogs, one black and one brown, sit on a low wall with peeling paint, while a blue tent is visible in the background.

    We went to Armona island for the day with a picnic and lots of suncream. This island is is part of the natural park of the Ria Formosa. It is just so beautiful and special with magnificent beaches and so much space. The water was a little cold but we managed to dip our toes in.

    View of a sandy beach with blue water and clear skies, featuring two colorful beach umbrellas providing shade.
    Two women standing in shallow water at the beach, one with pink hair and the other with curly hair, both smiling and enjoying the sunny day.
    View of a serene beach with numerous boats floating in the calm blue water, accompanied by a sandy shore lined with small buildings and palm trees under a clear blue sky.

    We went to Lagos and took a boat trip to look at the famous secluded beaches of Lagos such as Praia D. Ana and Praia do Camilo and the amazing rock formations. Lagos was surprisingly ok, very touristy but quite pretty. I was pleasantly surprised! It is historically associated with the Portuguese Discoveries with an attractive centre that is mostly pedestrianized. The rock formations were really cool and it is well worth doing the boat trip if you are in the area.

    A scenic view of a natural rock arch over calm waters, with a person in a kayak nearby and a sandy beach in the background under a clear blue sky.
    View of a rock formation with a circular opening, showcasing bright blue sky above.
    A seagull standing on rocky formations near the water, with sandstone cliffs in the background.
    Natural rock formations arching over calm waters under a bright blue sky.

    In Faro, we visited the Bone Chapel. There are a few of these around Portugal but we had never been to this one! It is an ossuary dating back to the 18th century. The chapel was constructed from the bones of over 1,000 monks. If you look closely at the photos, you’ll be able to see that it has femurs and is decorated with over 1,200 skulls. Above the entrance, there is the following insightful or creepy inscription:

    Stop here and consider that you will reach this state too.

    The church also has a beautiful tower with amazing views of Faro and the nature reserve. Oh, and the planes fly right over.

    A person standing in front of a wall made of human skulls and bones in a chapel, pointing at one of the skulls.

    On the drive back to Lisbon we stopped over at Cais Palafítico da Carrasqueira. The Cais Palafita de Carrasqueira is composed of a wide range of boardwalks made of wood that is buried in the mud of the River Sado. These improvised constructions are a little more than fifty years old and were built to allow fishermen to board their boats during low tide. It is a surreal place with its own unusual beauty. Kind of eerie but beautiful.

    A blue fishing boat resting on the grassy shore of the River Sado, surrounded by wooden structures and a marshy landscape, under a clear blue sky.
    A wooden boardwalk stretching over a muddy riverbed, with upright wooden poles supporting it under a clear blue sky.

    Nearing the end of our holiday, we finally made it to Lisbon. No matter how many times I go there, it always looks beautiful and special. Some photos of old shops that were common but are now disappearing and some beautiful blue skies.

    A storefront in Lisbon featuring a small shop with an open door displaying magazines and various items, along with decorative tiles on the exterior and balconies above.
    Front of a local grocery store in Lisbon, displaying various fruits and beverages, with posters on the windows.

    With our holiday coming to an end, we explored Ericeira, one of the big surfing areas in Portugal. It is pretty wild and windy with a pretty old town centre. We also went to Mafra Palace. It is the most important baroque monument in Portugal and it covers an area of almost 4 hectares! It is truly massive. Some fun facts: it includes 1,200 rooms, more than 4.,700 doors and windows, 156 stairways and 29 inner yards and courtyards. Its library is thought to be one of the most beautiful in the world and the Royal Building has two carillons with 98 bells. Oh, and there is one room full of furniture and chandeliers made of animals! We were only able to see a fraction of it and I was left wondering how one family could possibly need so much space.

    Interior view of a historical hall featuring animal trophies mounted on the walls and a chandelier hanging from the ceiling, with visitors exploring the space.

    And finally, the last 2 days at a beautiful beach in Alentejo with brother Jorge and Filomena. Thank you for a lovely stay and companionship. See you next Summer.

  • Farewell Thailand: 7 Years of Adventure and Memories

    The countdown has begun, the sense that we don’t have much time and many things we are doing for the last time here. Will we be back? There is a whole world out there but Thailand will always be special to us.

    We have had an amazing 7 years here. We learnt to dive, our kids finished school and went off to uni, I finished my counselling masters, set up a business, visited many islands. Went to Cambodia, Laos, Hong Kong… We were in lockdown during Covid and had Phuket to ourselves. We’ve made good friends and so many memories! Sad to be leaving but excited for a new adventure.

    Some final photos from around Bang Tao, our home for the last 5 years and a place of many sunsets.

    A large, abandoned head sculpture with blond hair in a dilapidated building, surrounded by debris and remnants of construction.
    The old beach club. Went to ruin with Covid, never to return.
    Close-up of an elephant interacting with its environment, showcasing its textured skin and distinct features.
    Elephants near us, an ethical sanctuary with a great restaurant.
    A caretaker interacts with an elephant in a lush green area surrounded by trees.
    A street scene in Thailand at sunset, featuring a motorcycle and a car on a quiet road lined with power lines and structures.
    Sunrise on the way to work. One of the perks from leaving home at a ridiculous time!
    A vibrant nighttime scene featuring a traditional Thai temple illuminated by colorful lights, surrounded by festive decorations and banners.
    Local fair
    A brightly lit traditional Thai temple at night, decorated with colorful lights, showcasing intricate architecture and a statue in front. Two individuals are seen near the entrance.
    A vibrant night scene at a carnival featuring a tall, multicolored tower ride with lights. In the foreground, a person wearing sunglasses is seated in a harness, preparing for the ride.
    So, throw a ball at the heart and if you don’t miss, the woman falls into a tub of water.
    Nighttime scene at a carnival with three women sitting on platforms behind a netting, set up for a throwing game. Colorful decorations adorn the background and spectators are visible, enjoying the atmosphere.
    A vibrant amusement ride at night featuring colorful decorations and images of people enjoying music, with riders seated and attendants nearby.
    A serene sunset view over the beach, with golden reflections on the water and a silhouette of a beach bar with bottles lined up in the foreground.
    We’ll miss the sunsets…
    A serene sunset over the ocean, with two silhouettes of people or animals in the foreground, creating a peaceful atmosphere.
    Close-up of the front bumper of an Isuzu truck, featuring intricate blue paint designs and a visible license plate reading 'THAILAND 66 70-1297' with surrounding greenery.
    Nacho never stops amusing us.
    Our monochrome cats
    Our regular visitors. Love these big lizards, this one is a baby!
    Beautiful Bang Tao
    Monsoon is coming…

    One of my favourite places in Thailand is Khao Sok national park. Not far from Phuket and the most incredible scenery, jungle and lake. I was so lucky to have been able to go again with a school trip. It is covered by the oldest evergreen rainforest in the world, huge limestone mountains shooting straight up in the air, deep valleys, breathtaking lakes, exciting caves, wild animals – we heard elephants but didn’t see any! Lots of hornbills and monkeys though. It is an incredibly beautiful place, if you come to Thailand, make sure you visit the jungle and the lake. Amazing hikes, good to take a guide as they somehow spot stuff nobody else can see.

    Floating hotel for the night
    We hiked through the jungle and got to a lake inland. So beautiful!
    It was such a hot walk but it was worth it!
    The longest bamboo rafts ever!
    Jungle hotel
    Love my room!
    Cooking in bamboo on the fire. Delicious.
    We did a night safari where we saw all sorts of creepy crawlies.

    Phuket is not only beaches and luxury resorts and we found some beautiful walks. So hot to walk though and we are not good at going early!

    A very hot dog, she doesn’t like water but couldn’t resist.
    Kamala hill loop walk. It turned out to be quite hilly!

    Yay, Marianne came to visit! We spend some time in Railay beach and in Koh Phanghan. This was our last holiday here so we had to pick carefully. So many places to revisit but having been to Koh Phayam recently, Koh Phanghan was the next best choice. We went to a rave, just like the ones in the 80’s and enjoying chilling.

    For more than a century, Thai southerners have raised and trained monkeys to climb high trees and collect ripe coconuts for them. This is seen as a cruel practice, outside of Thailand at least and it was sad to come across these chained monkeys, forced to work in this trade.
    Not a bad view…
    The house came with cats and a dog!
    A serene beach scene with a sandy shoreline, gently lapping waves, and palm trees swaying in the breeze under a clear sky.
    Thong Nai Pan beach
    A woman with pink hair is sitting on a beach in a black bikini, smiling while holding a coconut drink. A man is seated beside her, both enjoying the beach scenery.
    Jungle Experience party, Marianne getting into the spirit. Our first rave together!
    Unusual graffiti on the ferry!

    When we fist came to Thailand seven years ago, we went to Railay beach in Krabi. Everyone raved about how beautiful it was and how it was a must. When we got there, it didn’t stop raining! It was still impressive but extremely wet. We decided to return for another go. It is a small peninsula only accessible by boat as there a huge limestone cliffs in the way. There are no cars, plenty of paths to explore, cafes and restaurants. It has an amazing chilled vibe and beautiful sunsets.

    Hungry birds
    Not sure I would call this a trail, more like a death defying steep scramble!
    I started taking photos of signs years ago in Belize. I am now hooked and love hand painted signs. Some from around Railay. Weed is now everywhere and this is reflected in many of the signs.
    A colorful wooden signpost featuring names of countries including the U.S.A., Australia, Malaysia, and Iceland, adorned with decorative art pieces. The signpost is set against a backdrop of a café with blue flooring and plastic chairs.
    Weed shop
    Phra Nang Beach, photos don’t do it justice, it is one of the most beautiful beaches…
    Not something you would expect to find on a beach!  On the southern side of Phra Nang Beach, there is a small cove full of phalluses! These penis carvings are placed here by fishermen, other locals, and visitors as offerings to the princess of the cave who will bring them prosperity. It is not unusual for this to be used in Thailand but this cave has really gone for it.
    The sign reads:
    “Local people, fisherman and navigators believe and hold faith in the Princess of the Pranang Cave that she will preserve and protect their livelihood and fulfill one’s wishes. When their wishes are fulfilled, votive offerings would be made at the shrine. Common gifts are flowers and incense sticks, but usually the spirits of the Goddess are offered a special gift, the lingam, which is carved from wood. The belief of the lingam and holy womb shall create fertility and prosperity to the whole earth and mankind.”
    Silhouette of longtail boats lined up on a beach at sunset, with cliffs in the background.
    There are many dusky leaf monkeys about! Incredibly cute, they go round in large groups. Hard to get a clear photo as they don’t stop moving.

    Trip to Bangkok, how about being a tourist? One great thing to do is to explore the canals, there are so many! The Chao Phraya River, or River of Kings runs through Bangkok and there are many smaller canals that link communities. In the 19th century, the canal and river network stretched hundreds of kilometres and was the lifeblood of the city. It connected houses, public spaces and temples, served as transport corridors for commercial goods and there were more floating than land-based markets.  Many have now been paved to make way for roads. You can walk the canals or you can get a longtail. We opted for a boat this time and it was worth it.

    Thais love cute things… At the airport.
    Old canal houses
    A view of a weathered wooden house with a rusted metal roof, partially covered in reflective material, located along a canal in Bangkok, surrounded by modern buildings.
    This giant Bhuddha just pops out above the houses… It is at Wat Pak Nam Temple and it is the largest Buddha statue in Bangkok at 64 meters.
    Good aerial shot!
    Artist’s House

    From one large Bhudda to another! Wat Pho is one of Bangkok’s oldest and largest temples. The image of the reclining Buddha represents the entry of Buddha into Nirvana and the end of all reincarnations. The posture of the image is referred to as sihasaiyas, the posture of a sleeping or reclining lion. The figure is 15 m high and 46 m long, and it is one of the largest Buddha statues in Thailand.

    A foot…
    A row of golden Buddha statues inside a temple, with intricate red and gold ceiling decor.

    We came to Bangkok from Moshi in Tanzania. A very rural setting to a very urban one. The first weekend we went to Lumpini Park in search of some nature. In our last weekend we returned to say goodbye. We didn’t see a massive monitor but saw a baby one!

    Baby monitor
    Interior view of a modern bookstore with tall bookshelves, a counter displaying books and merchandise, and people browsing. The space is bright and inviting, featuring photographs on the walls.
    One of the most fabulous bookshops with cakes and views
    Bathroom with a view…
    A display of beautifully designed desserts, featuring a variety of cakes including chocolate and fruit tarts, arranged neatly in a pastry shop.

    So, it is goodbye for now. The removals are packing as I type and there is sadness for endings and excitment for a new chapter. It is extra sad as we had to say goodbye to Misty a few days ago. She was an amazing dog! Often sick but courageous and full of joy and love. We will miss her dearly.

    A memorial setup for a beloved dog named Misty, featuring flowers, photographs, and a heartfelt tribute among colorful decorations.

  • Adventure Awaits: Moving from Thailand to Mozambique

    We’re definitely not used to the cold anymore! It was so good to come back to Thailand and be warm again. Thailand does feel like home, it is comfortable, familiar and we love it here. So, why are you moving, I hear you ask… When we decided to leave everything behind it was for an adventure, for variety, for a different way of life. Staying in one place is not what we want and Africa beckons. We had 3 places we were considering: Mozambique, Senegal and Turkey. There were jobs for both of us in all those countries but Mozambique came first. Now for the paperwork! And so it starts. We have spent the last 2.5 months getting phase one sorted and what a headache it has been – there is more to come but we will get there.

    A man sitting on a beach chair under tall trees with colorful umbrellas in the background, enjoying a relaxed moment by the sea.
    Bang Tao beach
    A tranquil beach scene with soft sand, gentle waves, and a backdrop of tall trees and mountains. People are enjoying the beach, some walking along the shore and others swimming in the water.
    A sandy beach in Thailand with people enjoying the water, surrounded by lush green hills and a clear blue sky.
    A beach scene in Thailand featuring colorful umbrellas and loungers on the sand with a view of the ocean and boats in the background.
    Misty doggo! Sadly, she has cancer and not much longer in this world.
    Silhouette of people walking along a beach during sunset with a scenic horizon and clouds.
    A picturesque sunset over the tranquil beach, with a gradient of orange and pink hues in the sky, reflecting on the calm ocean waters.
    A large, geometric pink bear sculpture standing in the street with buildings in the background.
    Something big in Phuket Town!
    A metallic door with signs warning about dormant snakes and instructions regarding store equipment usage and cupboard locking, intended for safety and organization.
    Not your average school warning…

    2023 saw the year of the Rabbit – Chinese Lunar Year with 15 day long celebrations. There are quite a few Chinese temples in Phuket so this is a popular celebration here and all over Thailand. We went into Phuket Town to see the sights and enjoy the party atmosphere.

    Colorful lanterns hanging above a street in Thailand, creating a festive atmosphere.
    Colorful paper lanterns hanging above a lively night market scene in Thailand.
    No idea who she is but she is now on my blog!
    A street performer covered in colorful paint sitting on a stool and painting on a canvas, surrounded by onlookers in a bustling street.
    A street artist with colorful body paint sits on a stool, creating artwork on an easel. The artist's back is visible, showcasing a blend of vibrant hues, while a crowd observes in the background.
    Colorful decorations and flags adorn a Chinese temple in Phuket, Thailand, showcasing a festive atmosphere.
    At one of the temples
    Wooden poles are decorated with gold leaf
    Colorful decorative ribbons hanging overhead in a vibrant display.
    Offerings
    An ornate incense burner with dragon sculptures on either side, filled with incense sticks, inside a Chinese temple adorned with traditional decorations.
    Incense bowl
    Where the Chinese fire crackers are lit

    As it is out last year in Thailand, we had to decide which places we wanted to visit for the last time; we settled on Koh Phayam. One of our favourite places ever. It is such a beautiful, chilled island, no cars and not much there. There is one ATM on the island and it doesn’t always work so good to take some cash with you. No 711s, no high rise buildings, only small local shops, simple bars and restaurants. One of few places where you can still get a simple bungalow on the beach! It’s the sort of place where you could get stuck for months…

    Pier in Ranong
    How to load a boat
    Things are simple over here…
    Our cabin at La Ong Lay on Long Beach, beautiful, quiet spot.
    The view from our cabin
    Sunset on Long Beach
    Resident baby monitor lizard. Great camouflage.

    Job To Do is well known all over Thailand! His music has made a massive impact on Thai country and folk music with his unique blend of reggae. He has had a huge influence on the popularity of reggae music in Thailand and he plays all over. He has played many times in Phuket and somehow I never managed to see him. As luck would have it, there he was on Koh Phayam right next to our hotel! Great music, they played for over 3 hours and what a great atmosphere, sand between our toes and a very chilled crowd. You can read more about him on here: https://phanganist.com/koh-phangan-party-musician-article/story-job2do-thailands-most-successful-reggae-act.

    Musician performing on stage with an electric guitar, wearing sunglasses and a hat, under colorful stage lights.
    The man himself
    How to play guitar with dreadlocks
    A serene sunset view over a tranquil beach, with silhouettes of distant hills and gentle waves reflecting warm orange and pink hues in the sky.
    A novel way to protect your property!
    A serene beach scene at sunset with silhouettes of people walking along the shoreline, surrounded by trees and distant hills.
    Sunrise
    A hornbill bird foraging near a feeding bowl on a pathway, surrounded by greenery and debris.
    Many hornbills on the island, especially around the Hippy Bar
    The Hippy Bar! Built completely out of driftwood, it is a fantastic construction , with up to 3 stories and many, many different spaces and chambers to sit down and enjoy the view and the sunset. Where the Thai hippies hang out 🙂
    Mike and Silvana
    The main bar
    The boat at night, so many colours
    An old wooden ship docked on a beach at night, adorned with colorful lights and surrounded by trees, with a serene sea in the background.

    I’m a sucker for hand painted signs, so here a few from the island.

    Our place!
    A hand-painted sign reading 'JAM ROCK' on the front of a colorful building, surrounded by green plants and decorative items.
    Hand-painted sign for 'Freedom Bar' at a tropical bar surrounded by greenery.
    If you are ever in Koh Phayam, go there! Such lovely people and lovingly made food.
    A little jungle view from a mountain top cafe
    What it looks like from the back of a bike!
    The road to our beach home always made me a little nervous but Geoff wasn’t bothered!

    I think we managed to explore most of the island on this second visit but there was a beach we had missed last time. It turned out to be one of our faves in the end. It had a road sign “beautiful rock by the sea” which was intriguing. As it turned out, there were many rocks by the sea and it was rather beautiful. I think the beach is called Khaokwai beach, not entirely sure as the signs point to the rocks and I saw no beach name.

    Signpost indicating direction to Hin-Ta-Lu (Koh Phayam's Sea Arch) with distance of 250 meters, sponsored by Phayamas Island Brew & Restaurant.
    Small bar on the beach, really chilled, managed to waste a few hours there…
    A scenic view of a rocky beach with a prominent rock formation featuring two arches, surrounded by crystal-clear water and a clear blue sky.
    Rock binoculars!

    And so ends our trip to Phayam – we will miss you! Back to Ranong and Phuket. Until next time…

    Fancy a haircut in Ranong?
    Another favourite – Memories in Khao Lak
    Hand-painted wooden sign displaying directions to Ninan, Kata, and Kamala Beach in vibrant colors.

  • Adventure After Summer: Our Journey Back to Thailand

    After a full on summer in Europe, we were finally back to Thailand and in need of a holiday. Time to start job hunting, scary time, have to hand in our notices before we have jobs but hey, that is part of the adventure, you never know where you might end up. So exciting but scary and nerve racking all at the same time. We are currently in the process of doing paperwork for Mozambique. Great school and package, fingers crossed it all gets accepted. In the meantime, we are enjoying our last few months in Thailand.

    View of an airplane wing against a dramatic sunset sky, with vibrant colors illuminating the horizon.
    Starting with sunsets or was it sunrise from the plane.
    A vibrant sunset over the ocean, with shades of orange, pink, and purple filling the sky, and gentle waves lapping at the shore.
    Back on our local beach – Bang Tao, will miss this place!
    A serene beach scene at low tide with a distant hill silhouetted against a cloudy sky, reflecting on the wet sand.
    Silhouette of a person standing on a beach with a dramatic, cloud-filled sky at sunset.
    A scenic sunset over the ocean with vibrant orange and pink clouds, and silhouettes of two people walking along the beach.
    A palm tree leaning over a sandy beach with a sign reading 'The Lazy Coconut' in front of a tranquil ocean under a cloudy sky.
    A wooden sign labeled 'Weather Station' displays humorous weather conditions using coconut references, set against a tropical beach backdrop with palm trees and lounge chairs.

    Due to my ulcerative colitis, we spend a lot of time in Bangkok but before that, here is something at the traffic lights in Phuket!

    A person in a bear costume with a colorful tutu walking between cars at a traffic stop.
    Selling small bottles of Yakult. No idea….
    Rainbow Phuket to Bangkok

    Whilst in Bangkok, we decided to explore places we had wanted to visit but for some reason or another had not got round to it. One of those places is the Golden Mound temple. Apparently it is the only hill in Bangkok and 344 steps take you to the top. It was built in 1467, quite old then.

    A small altar surrounded by thick tree roots and lush greenery.
    A large display of golden leaf-shaped tags hanging from a rack, each inscribed with messages in blue ink, symbolizing wishes or prayers.
    A golden statue of a figure holding a staff, surrounded by lush greenery and flowers, with a rock displaying '344 STEPS' in bold yellow letters.
    A close-up view of a golden stupa topped with a tall spire, accompanied by a statue of a goddess in blue and decorative offerings at the base.
    Geoff is still at it!
    Bells, bell, bells!
    Golden hearts with messages, representing the shape of the leaves of the bodhi tree, the most sacred tree in Thailand

    We did a fair bit of walking, Bangkok is great around the old part and the old streets. It really takes you back in time and it is such a contrast to the new skyscrapers, shopping malls, huge advertising billboards, concrete skytrain….

    A street scene in Thailand featuring old buildings with vibrant red lanterns and parked scooters in front, surrounded by visible power lines.
    Benjakitti Forest Park – 72 acres!

    In September, we added another cat to our family. Sadly, Sherlock Holmes went walk about and there was a kitten in need (isn’t there always…). He was too cute and we couldn’t resist!

    A dog and a kitten sitting together on a couch, surrounded by decorative pillows.

    Monsoon season starts around end of April and as expected it brings rain and big storms. 2022 was a particularly fierce year for rain. Phuket and other parts of Thailand suffered the worst floods in 30 years. Never seen so much water in my life! It was horrendous, mudslides, floods, roads collapsing… No idea how only 1 person died. There are obviously many photos but these document some of my drives home. There were various floods over a period of a few weeks, so it came and went but the rain seemed to go on forever, months and months.

    Our road
    Our pool, we flooded 3 times, once it came into the house, then we got sandbags!

    We had a glimpse of sunshine and ran to the beach for a sunset, it was not to last but it was a ray of hope followed by another trip to Bangkok.

    Bang Tao beach
    Jack’s Bar
    Bangkok sunset

    Bangkok walkabout around the Portuguese and French Embassies. I just love walking around the old streets, away from the concrete jungle and shopping madness.

    View of a traditional wooden house in a bustling urban environment, showing a mix of old architecture and modern buildings in the background, with cluttered street scenes and a parked car.
    France meets Thailand at the French Embassy in Bangkok
    The river was so full from the floods!
    A mural featuring a black cat peeking from the left side and a hand pointing at the word 'OUT' on a blue background, alongside a gray cat walking on a wall.
    Colorful temple structure with intricate carvings, surrounded by greenery and festive decorations. Two people stand in front, examining the temple's entrance.
    Hindu Temple, Bangkok

    Great area for walking about, some good vegetarian Indian eateries and shops and a beautiful temple, always full of life, colour and smells.

    All handmade out of fresh flowers! So beautiful.
    Christmas lights! Some quite odd ones…. Bangkok goes crazy with Xmas, so many lights everywhere and massive trees.

    And it was time to fly off to Portugal for Christmas! Had not been there for Christmas for over 20 years, we were so excited to be spending it with family. Even better to be together with Mazzie, Joshua and Sandra. I really don’t like the long plane journey and the jet lag but it was worth it. We had a lovely airbnb with lots of space and plenty of places to walk to.

    Lots of Father Xmas on bikes in Lisbon, no idea…

    We had a fabulous Xmas at Leonor’s house followed by another at brother Jorge’s house! So much amazing food and wonderful to be with family. I’d forgotten how much food is eaten in Portugal. Leonor’s Xmas was a feast followed by one at brother Jorge’s house where we had over 12 desserts. This was after eating various starters and main courses! Oh, and a massive Bolo Rei.

    Bolo Rei
    Brother Ze Pedro e Dulce

    Pre Xmas sunset in Sesimbra! Sesimbra is usually packed in the summer so it was really weird to see it deserted and shut. We struggled to find a cafe to warm ourselves up with a hot drink. The sunset was beautiful and the walk along the beachfront blew the cobwebs away,

    We spent an afternoon at the Botanic Gardens in Belem. Peaceful and quiet, met a cat, plenty of birds and wandered about watching peacocks…

    We love Lisbon! Our plane was cancelled so get got a bonus day and night to potter around and have another drink with brother Jorge. What a treat. Saw the Xmas lights and watched the sun set over the bridge.It truly is a beautiful city.

    The oldest cathedral in Lisbon
    Sunset over the Tagus River in Lisbon, with clouds in the sky and lights reflecting on the water.

    Off to England to see friends and family. We stayed in Brighton and just chilled ; literally as it was quite cold although not as bad as we expected. Lisbon was quite balmy and we didn’t even wear coats but the UK was windy and drizzly. We didn’t do much and tended to stay in and snuggle.

    I have only one photo of Anne and Grammy! Can’t believe there are no others. Very poor show… Maybe the cold froze my fingers and sadly there are no photos to show.

    And so, 2022 draws to a close. A year of ups and downs! Marianne left home to go to uni, my illness flared up again, we decided to move, had two amazing trips to Europe to spend time with family and friends. Lost one cat, got another cat, had many trips to Bangkok, witnessed some awful floods, and so it goes on… We are grateful for our friends and family and for the experiences we continue to have. A new chapter awaits and with it some different blogs and scenery. Let’s hope 2023 brings everyone lots of joy and happiness. Miss you all!

  • Family Adventures in Europe: A Journey to Lisbon and Beyond

    It has been a while…. Not sure, not had the inspiration to write… A lot has been happening and time flies. Marianne left for uni in the UK in August, we went to Europe for the first time in 3 years, we decided to move on and have been job hunting.

    First stop Lisbon in the Summer. What a beautiful city and country, I never tire of it. We had not seen anybody for so long, it was amazing to make connections again and to feel part of something. Living so far away, with such a different lifestyle, it can be easy to feel a loss of connection with those we are close to. Covid further created

    Castelo de São Jorge, Sintra
    Lisboa
    Brother Jorge!
    Group of five people posing together outdoors with a large tree in the background, smiling and enjoying a sunny day.
    Discoveries monument, Lisbon
    A young woman and a young man posing together with a scenic view of the ocean and a bridge in the background.
    At the top!
    Yay, Joshie and Sandra have arrived!
    Recycled art at the Oceanarium
    At the castle, on top of the world!
    Group of five people posing together outdoors with a scenic view of a castle in the background.
    Expo site cable cars
    View of the waterfront in Lisbon, Portugal, featuring the river, a bridge in the background, and people enjoying the sunny day along the promenade.
    Riverside in Lisbon
    Guincho
    Just love jellyfish!

    Sadly we all got Covid during our stay in Portugal! Just before, we had a fabulous family reunion in a beautiful area in Minde. Thank you Leonor for organising this.

    Glacial river! After the warm water in Thailand, this was way too cold for us.
    A person sitting on a white horse wearing a helmet, holding a phone, with a background of rural buildings.
    Wherever we go, Maz finds a horse to ride!
    And Sandra finds cats…

    There was one thing I have wanted to do for years, to walk the Passadiços do Paiva, 8 km of steep wooden walkways along the bank of the Paiva River with scenic views. Provides a walk “untouched”, surrounded by unique beauty of landscapes, in an authentic natural sanctuary with waterfalls and rivers. The route extends from the river beaches of Areinho and Espiunca, lying between them, the Vau beach. A journey through biology, geology and archeology. Sadly, between having Covid and one of the hottest summers in history, we were not able to do this walk as it was closed due to the danger of fires. Instead, we chilled in our own schist village in Arouca. Very isolated and raw natural beauty!

    Room with a view
    A stone pathway bordered by lush greenery and hydrangea flowers, with a painted figure holding a guitar and a directional sign visible in the background.
    We had a river close to the house, not cold at all.

    I had not been to Coimbra before and I absolutely loved it! What a beautiful city steeped in history. I could easily have spent more time there. We visited the old university, of course.  It was the first Portuguese university in 1290 in Lisbon and relocated to Coimbra in 1308, making it the oldest academic institution in the Portuguese-speaking world. Its historical buildings were classified as a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 2013. The library, built in 1717 is simply stunning and considered one of the most beautiful in the world. You are not allowed to photograph inside so these are not my photos. Oh, and the books are protected from insects by a colony of bats!

    The library!

    We visited the Cabinet of Curiosities in the Science Museum of the university. These cabinets were popular in 17th century onwards and were mainly created by the European nobility, who tried to gather in these rooms a set of objects, such as exotic pieces, in an attempt to recreate the work of God. The aim of these cabinets was to display rare, exotic and even bizarre objects, so as to amaze the visitor and simultaneously show the cosmopolitan vision of their owner.

    A dimly lit cabinet of curiosities in a science museum featuring shelves filled with various specimens, fossils, and artifacts illuminated with purple lighting.
    Cabinet of curiosities
    Historic university building with a clock tower and architectural details under a clear blue sky.
    The main square
    Facade of a historic building in Coimbra, Portugal, featuring classical architecture with decorative elements and a central entrance.

    The rest of the city was great for walking and we did some exploring although by this stage we were all pretty sick and spent the next two days in the hotel recovering.

    A narrow cobblestone alleyway lined with lush green plants and flowers, flanked by weathered whitewashed buildings under a clear blue sky.
    Bordalo graffiti in Coimbra
    A large mural depicting two faces with beards, surrounded by geometric patterns in shades of gray and red, located on a building wall.
    A bustling street in a picturesque city with colorful buildings, featuring people walking and shops along the sides. Decorative elements hang overhead, and a clear blue sky is visible.
    Street view of colorful historic buildings in Lisbon, Portugal, showcasing intricate architectural details and people walking along the sidewalk.

    It was time to leave and visit out friends and family in the UK where the weather was also fabulous. Don’t you just love the British seaside… and Brighton! Here are some typical seaside scenes, you wouldn’t expect this in such a trendy city but there you go.

    A colorful carousel on the beach under a clear blue sky, with the ocean in the background.
    A sign for a shellfish specialty shop with the text 'Shellfish Specialities' and 'Sea Haze' offering a selection of shellfish including cockles, whelks, mussels, prawns, and jellied eels, with a view of the sea in the background.
    A sunny day at Brighton beach with people relaxing on the pebbles, striped deck chairs set up, and a view of the iconic old pier in the distance.
    An older man with a white beard is resting inside a hollowed-out fishing boat, which is mounted against a brick wall with scaffolding. A sign for the Brighton Fishing Museum is visible nearby.

    As we were in Brighton we decided to go up on the i360, a 162 m moving observation tower with, as the name suggests, 360 degree views! Fabulous, highly recommend it.

    Duke of York’s cinema, Brighton

    We spent some time exploring London with Mazzie, Camden Market was her fave place. We found Peaky Blinders over there!

    We couldn’t even remember the last time we saw each other! So, so long ago… We had a great time in Portsmouth, pottering about like tourists. We went up the Spinaker Tower, what a view at 170 meters high with a glass platform, not for the faint hearted.

    A panoramic view of a marina with several sailboats moored in the water, alongside a town and lush green landscape under a partly cloudy sky.
    View from the glass viewing platform of the i360 observation tower in Brighton, showing the ground and marina below.

    Back to Brighton once again and it is time for Pride 2022! The city is full of colour and rainbows, such a happy, carefree atmosphere.

    It is always a pleasure to spend an afternoon in Lewes, wandering around the old lanes, sitting in the cafes and what a wonderful summer of sunshine to do this in.

    Anne and Grammy kindly let us stay in their beautiful house. We were very lucky to also look after Sam who is a truly lovely doggo. Mazzie and I enjoyed taking him for walks up on the hills, beautiful views and sense of freedom up there.

    A dog walking along a gravel path in a grassy landscape, with the sea in the background under a clear blue sky.
    Brighton grafitti
    Fancy finding Pickard here…

    And it was nearly time to go back home. Time to leave Mazzie who went on to America to work at a stables in North Carolina. It was so hard to say goodbye… Before she left, we went to Barcombe Mills for a swim but it was full of algae and not safe for swimming.

    Thailand here I come! Another school year about to start and time to start job hunting for our next adventure.

  • It is nearly the holidays…

    Nearly the end of another school year and nearly time for our summer hols. After 3 years, we are going to Portugal and the UK. Can’t wait…

    In February, we visited the Surin Islands. Surin Islands are an archipelago of five islands within Mu Ko Surin National Park, in Phang Nga Province. The islands are 55 km off the coast, 100 km north from Similan Islands in the Andaman Sea and just 18 km from the oceanic border of Burma

    Popular for its coral gardens and white beaches, Surin Islands are one of the most famous diving and marine life viewing sites in Thailand. It is a very untouched area with only a Moken village and national park buildings where you can stay as well as a few tents. It is probably one of the most beautiful places we have been to.

    On the way there we had some pretty heavy rain!

    Green swamp
    Mangroves

    Our tent, could have stayed there for a few more days.

    The only way to get around!

    Fishing boats
    Khao Lak on the way back to Phuket. By Memories Beach Bar.
    Bang Tao beach, our stomping ground.
    Misty doggo
    Stuff you find on the beach….

    In April, we went island hopping in Koh Mook, Lipe and Kradan. Yes, I know, it seems like our life is one long holiday but we do work in between! Mook is less touristy than some other islands and with Covid, it has been decimated. It was quiet, many places were closed and it had a feeling of being derelict but I loved it! There is a great, little bakery in town, she makes delicious banoffe pie for 25 baht.

    Main street in Koh Mook
    Local barber shop
    Local houses
    Maybe at some point…

    Someone’s kitchen

    So many starfish!

    Goodbye Mook, hello Lipe! Quite touristy but it grew on us, eventually. Met some friends from Bangkok, did some diving and stayed at Castaway Resort which also has a dive centre. Nice place with a decent restaurant.

    Zodiac Bar in Lipe. Best music and fire show.
    Wherever you go, the fireboys will follow….
    Yay, it’s dive time! First time diving off a longtail, have to go in backwards.
    Dive site, not so clear further down

    And now for a spot of kayaking!
    To a small island….
    Love jellies!

    From Lipe to Kradan. A very small island with no roads, no shops, nothing really. Very beautiful and unspoilt. We stayed at Kalume. A beautiful eco resort run by an Italian couple. Delicious food and it felt like home, very cosy and a happy place

    Phuket Town is just on our doorstep and is a place we go to for a little slice of small city life. There are many good cafes and local restaurants and it is seeped in history. There are many sino-Portuguese buildings and a great market on Sundays. Our favourite is China House for lunch!

    Old Chinese shop/home, now one of our favourite places for lunch.

    Final dive of the season at Koh Weo, a tiny island off Bang Tao beach and Tin Lizzy Wreck (a tin mining excavator). It was surprisingly good and clear. We had been there before with very poor visibility which was disappointing. We were lucky to go with a lovely couple from Argentina we had met in Lipe.

    Our chilled captain!

    It has been a very long school term but we were lucky to have a long weekend halfway through which we spent in Chinatown in Bangkok. It is such an amazing area, full of history, alleyways, markets, stalls and food. An assault on the senses. It was also a great excuse to meet up with Sarah and Mick. We stayed at the Shanghai Mansion. Beautiful hotel and a huge room right in the heart of Chinatown.

    Durian
    Fried fish
    Dates
    Dried squid
    Dried prawns
    Need anything?
    Durian
    Mango

    Who lives here?
    Mama Restaurant, one of the best Indian restaurants I’ve been to.

    Alleyway reggae bar

    Chinatown at night really comes alive! It is manic, noisy and full of food stalls.

    Moody skies over Bangkok from the plane
    Last sunset before we leave for Portugal and England

    It has been a difficult year with Covid and we are fortunate to be able to go to islands and relax. Many lockdowns, school closures, not being able to leave Thailand and missing friends and families has been hard. We are grateful to live in such a beautiful place and have the opportunity to explore this amazing country. See you back in August!

  • Here’s to another year in Thailand!

    What better way to start the year than to go on an adventure? Dropping Joshua and Sandra off at the airport was sad and the idea of going back home was horrid. So, we dropped them and kept driving north to Ranong. Ranong is a small border town, not a lot to do, sleepy but pleasant for a night; before Covid, most people came here for a visa run to Myanmar. The food was good though and we had an amazing breakfast! Before Ranong, we stopped at Memories Bar in Koh Lak. Nice little place, surfers paradise and a perfect spot for a weekend getaway from Phuket.

    And to Ranong! Geoff found us some street art… A very old barber’s shop and a cat.

    Good public transport, these are everywhere!

    Strange things do happen and the world can at times feel like a very small place. After stopping for petrol and bumping into someone I used to work with in Bangkok, we then bumped into somebody else we used to know, from Geoff’s school in Bangkok. Jon L! We had a really good catch up with Jon and Pat and it turned out that they were staying in the same hotel and in the room next to ours!!! Go figure… We had an amazing Thai breakfast, the best Thai breakfast I’ve had in Thailand before getting on a boat to Koh Phayam.

    Koh Phayam is a very small island, about 45.00 km2, it has no roads and no cars and the population is around 500 people. It is unspoiled and rustic and some places still have no electricity. It is a hippy, rasta kind of island and a great place to chill. There are 2 main beaches on the island, Ao Yai and Ao Kao Kwai (Buffalo Bay). Both are very beautiful and at the moment, extremely quiet and unspoiled.

    Ranong Pier
    Leaving Ranong through the mangroves
    The island is full of hornbills!
    Yummy table
    Those paws….
    Happy belly rubs
    Long beach
    Tokay gecko – never seen such a huge one!
    Long beach

    There is so much space on this beach! A lot of places were closed due to Covid and the sense of space and freedom was just amazing. Although it is now becoming more developed, the island is still very rustic with no frills. There are a few places to eat and some cafes dotted around the island but all are pretty basic. No chance of getting a decaf here. Came across a wonderful little Japanese bakery by Bamboo Bungalows on long beach. She makes beautiful bread, cakes and sandwiches. If you ever visit, go there. It was our favourite place!

    This is the weirdest sand ever. It sounds like snow! It is so loud when you walk on it…

    There is only one temple on the island and it is at the end of a small pier which is rather unusual.

    The next place to visit was Buffalo Bay. One end was not particularly nice but the end where the Hippy Bar is, is particularly beautiful. I am being fussy now…

    One of the highlights of being in Phayam was watching the sunset from the Hippy Bar. This is a really crazy and amazing reclaimed wooden construction that goes on for ever. The bit you see on the beach is like a pirate ship jutting out but as you walk inside it goes on to all sorts of nooks and crannies, walkways and lounging areas. Incredible!


    And another really lovely bar, precariously build on the side of the cliff which has beautiful views. I really have no idea how they build this stuff or how safe it is…

    We read about a beach in the north that was quite hard to get to! If you don’t want to meet people, go to Ao Kwangpeep, also called Monkey Bay – a tiny little beach at the northernmost point. However, to get there is not easy and not completely harmless either. With Geoff’s riding skills this was a walk in the park although I was pretty scared! The road starts off well tarred, until one thing is clear: this is no longer a road but a steep descent with plenty of massive holes! It was worth it though, the beach was deserted and the only place to stay is now fully derelict and abandoned due to Covid. The view to Koh Chang and Myanmar is beautiful!

    A video of the best kept part of the road

    And so our visit to Koh Phayam comes to an end. A truly beautiful island, unspoilt and still rustic. On the way back, we stopped at Little Amazon in Takuapa. It is is a small stretch of mangrove forest in Phang Nga Province. The Sang Ne Canal has massive banyan trees with intricate root systems that create archways over the small waterway. There is plenty of wildlife but try to get a guide that speaks some English as we had no clue what ours was telling us! We saw a few birds, a couple of snakes and lots of monkeys, pretty beautiful spot!
     
    A video with the monkeys!

    Oh, I nearly forgot. The tiniest ever praying mantis.

  • An end to 2021 in Thailand….

    It has now been 5 years and 6 months since we set foot in Thailand. I had never really thought about visiting Asia, apart from India so ending up in Thailand was not on the cards but life has its twists and turns… We are at a crossroads at the moment; reevaluating our life, options, needs and wants. Having choices is great and we are fortunate to be in this position but it also brings confusion and leads to difficult decisions having to be made. In the meantime, we are enjoying our time here, getting on with work and continuing to explore as much as we can during these Covid times. We are in the middle of a fifth wave and it feels as if everyone has had enough now. It seems the government is trying to keep things open and make Covid endemic this year. Let’s see…

    October and it’s Halloween. Not a lot going on but some funky decorations and Marianne and Blaze looking cool! I tried to scare the kids at school

    The much awaited December finally arrived with Joshua and Sandra visiting. After 2.5 years, it was a very exciting reunion! December also marked the end of the Monsoon. After 6 months of rain, some of it of biblical proportions, seeing blue skies and calm seas is good for the soul.

    Sherlock Holmes looking beautiful!
    I think he wants to be gifted to someone….
    New beach bar
    First day of beach after the rains
    Toilet in Bangkok
    Xmas tree in Bangkok
    Bangkok views

    The wait is finally over. We all went to Bangkok to collect Joshua and Sandra and spent a few days exploring with Marianne and Blaze. Never been to a games cafe before but highly recommend it. Such fun and so many games!!

    Went to a festival of lights which included a river trip to see some of the lights around Bangkok. Some unusual installations…..

    Wat Arun at night – Temple of Dawn
    Rama 9 bridge
    Blaze enjoying a spot of relaxation!

    Back to Phuket to a Xmas full of cheer. It was the first Xmas where we have all been together with partners. Very exciting to see the kids growing up into adults and enjoying their independence. Thank you to the friends who joined us and made it a fun and memorable day.

    And so the adventure begins. On to Khao Sok National Park – it is covered by the oldest evergreen rainforest in the world, huge limestone mountains shooting straight up in the air, deep valleys and breathtaking lakes. We decided to go on a stroll which ended up taking forever but managed to get to a river for a cool swim. We thought it would be a leisurely stroll through the jungle, 3kms, they said, each way. It is indeed a beautiful forest, may types of trees, monkeys, plants… It all looked even better once we managed to get back to the car and rest.

    Walk through the jungle video
    View from our room
    Our little cabin in the woods
    Cheeky monkeys
    Hold up, way too close!
    Female stag beetle
    Father and son having a splash
    Sandra opted for quiet reading
    Our hotel
    Bridge Hill, an instagram’s delight, apparently!
    Where is he going?

    We stayed one night at Cheow Lan Lake, an 185-square-kilometre artificial lake. The lake is only a few decades old but the area is ancient. Khao Sok National Park outdates even the Amazon rainforest, with scientists estimating its creation at approximately 160 million years ago. The cliffs in this area are thought to have been created at the same time as the Himalayas, when 50 million years ago the Eurasian and Indian tectonic plates collided, forcing the rock upwards. It is an incredibly beautiful scenery with limestone cliffs jutting out of the emerald water. So much fun for swimming and kayaking! Shame is was cloudy but still beautiful.

    Aerial photo of the lake
    Our place for the night
    Not a bad view
    Maz and Blaze!

    And New Year came and went… Let’s hope 2022 brings joy and happiness to us all and hopefully less Covid. Time for one more picturesque trip before Joshua and Sandra head back to chilly Edinburgh. Coral Island or Koh Hae is very close to Phuket and easy to get to for the day. It has beautiful, clear, blue water and a coral reef which is just off the beach. Plenty of fish to see!

    Aerial view of Banana Beach – Koh Hae
    Oriental pied hornbill
    Oriental pied hornbill

    And the visit comes to an end! See you in Summer.

  • Beach and Mountains – Thailand

    Things you see around Phuket and in our house…

    No idea how they do that but it is beautiful

    Bang Tao Beach

    Some woman just started climbing the rope and up, up she went.
    Water on lotus leaves, Geoff says it’s physics!
    Banana beach
    Bang Tao beach
    Mobile shop
    Beach Pig Bar – Bang Tao beach
    Water buffalo
    Frida Kahlo – our new addition

    Life goes on, Covid goes on… We are just coming out of another outbreak and it seems like Thailand has finally decided that we just need to get on with it now. See what happens as only 39% of the population is vaccinated. I think we are all fed up with this and just want to get on with our lives. It has been tough not being able to go home, not seeing friends and family and being “stuck” in Phuket. Yes, I know, it is beautiful, but we feel a little claustrophobic now. We did a quick trip to Bangkok and went in search of graffiti. This is what we found in Charlerma Park in Ratchathewi. https://thesmartlocal.com/thailand/bangkok-graffiti-park/

    I had a willing model to help me bring the art to life. I heard that things get covered over and over so I am sure next time we go, it will look different.

    Houses by the canal
    Bangkok!

    It really has been a very quiet time over here in Phuket. Even though tourists have been trickling in, the island is still pretty empty and places continue to be closed. There is little to do apart from eating out and going to the beach which is not bad considering we are in the middle of a pandemic. We did manage to leave the island last week and went up north to Chiang Mai and Pai. The road to Pai goes through the mountains and there are 762 bends which I thoroughly enjoyed – most of them hairpin and switchback. Apparently it was built by the Japanese during the 2nd World War.

    I did not take this but it gives you an idea….

    Pai is a small town near the Myanmar border. Largely unheard of, it became a hippy, backpacker destination and is now full of cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops. I kind of liked it and didn’t like it! It was quiet which helped but I am not sure if I would have enjoyed a small town full of backpackers. The countryside around it is magnificent though so go there, get out of town for the day and come back in the evening for food and music.

    View from our room
    Evening band, they were really good!

    Pai Canyon or Kong Lan in Thai is described in some tourist brochures as Thailand’s answer to the Grand Canyon. To say that’s stretching a point would be putting it mildly. Pai Canyon’s geological and topographic features are quite stunning. This unique geographical area has been formed by continuous erosion over decades until reaching the current condition. The carved narrow ledges and slabs that have survived the erosive actions of the elements have steep 30 meters deep cliff drops and a series of narrow walkways cut on the ridges of giant rock walls that snake out into the densely forested valley. I found it a little scary so did not venture far. Very slippery and too steep for my liking!

    The Bamboo Bridge near Pai (also known as Boon Ko Ku So) is an 1 km long bridge that stretches over a field of lush rice fields and leads to a bamboo temple. The wonderfully springy trail takes you over bright green rice paddies. The name Kho Ku So translates into ‘The Bridge of Merit’. Originally built for the monks at the bamboo temple by the locals. Before the bridge, the monks had to walk over 6 km to reach the village to obtain food. The journey took them a long time as the path lead through forest and the rice fields. In order to make the journey shorter the bridge was built. Now the monks no longer have to avoid stumbling through the rice plantations as they can stroll over the lovely fields via the Kho Ku So. It was truly beautiful, especially as there were no people! I think you are getting the idea that empty is best.  

    Just passing on the road…

    On the way to Pai, we stopped at Pong Dueat in is the biggest geyser hot spring in Thailand. It is located in a national park called Huai Nam Dang. The temperature of the water in the geyser can go up to 150 degrees celsius. The water springs 2 metres high every 30 seconds although we did not see it go so high when we were there. The circular walk is very beautiful and about 1.5kms. Again, we seemed to be the only people there.

    Chiang Mai has 117 Buddhist temples. Wat Chiang Man was built by Mangrai in 1297 CE as the first temple of Chiang Mai. It gives you an idea of how old they are. This time, we visited Wat Chedi Luang, its construction started in the 14th century and was finished in the mid-15th century. It is home to Chiang Mai’s largest Buddhist chedi – 98 meters tall and 54 meters in diameter.

    Chiang Mai
    Chedi
    Chedi
    At the top of the chedi
    Sadly true!
    On the streets of Chiang Mai

    From Chiang Mai, we went to Doi Suthep temple. A Thai saying goes, “If you haven’t tasted Khao Soi or seen the view from Doi Suthep, you haven’t been to Chiang Mai.” This regal mountain overlooks the city from the northwest, with beautiful views from its summit. Aside from its dominating presence on the horizon, Doi Suthep is the home of some of the most deeply loved symbols in Thailand. The highest peak in the park is Doi Pui which tops off at 1,685 meters (5,528 feet), making it the eighth largest mountain in Thailand. he main reason many visitors come to Doi Suthep National Park is to visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a venerable and venerated temple that is one of the most holy Buddhist sites in Thailand. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is a major pilgrimage destination, especially during the Buddhist holidays of Makha Bucha and Visakha Bucha (February 13 and May 11). Beware, there are 309 steps to climb – there is a tram which we said no to before realising how many steps there were!

    We stopped off at a Karen/Kayan village which is meant to be for tourists. Not the sort of thing we would normally go to but as there were no tourists about, we thought we would stop for a coffee and buy something to help them out. This is one of several privately owned ethnic villages in northern Thailand that are home to migrants from the Karenni or Red Karen hill tribe in Myanmar’s Kayah State, formerly known as Karenni State. The village was a popular tourist attraction, with visitors queuing to see the elongated, brass-ringed necks of the Red Karen women but now there are no tourists and they are struggling.

    From the age of five or six, girls begin winding a series of heavy brass coils around their necks to give them an elongated appearance. The coils, weighing up to four or five kilograms by the time a woman reaches adulthood, push down on their collarbones and compress their ribcages. The women say that it is for beautification and that it gives a sense of cultural identity. Some say this is a cruel practice and it is mysoginistic, personally, I don’t like it but it is not clear cut. Contrary to popular belief, the women do not die if they remove their neck rings. It is reported that they feel uncomfortable for a period after removing the rings, until their body adjusts to not having them.

    As the Kayan Long Neck tribe are not native to Thailand, but are refugees here, seeking refuge from persecution in Myanmar, no natural or authentic Kayan villages exist in Thailand. The Kayan Long Neck that live in Thailand reside in refugee camps and have refugee status. This means that they have limited access to education, medical care, employment and that their movement is restricted. So, do we want to promote these villages? What do the Karen want? They want tourists as it is their way of making some money but for us it can seem like a human zoo.

    Arrow shooting near Chiang Mai

    Cape Panwa beach in Phuket and the old Sino Portuguese house on the grounds of the Cape Panwa Hotel

    That’s all for now. Enjoy the photos and I’ll see you all after Xmas!