lisbonchick

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I love adventure and exploring new places.

Malawi, what a fabulous country!

Map showing a travel route highlighting various locations in Zambia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, and Malawi with a blue line.

From South Luangwa in Zambia, we drove to Dedza in Malawi. We crossed at Mchinji Border Station, a brand new building, very fancy, clean and not crowded. The best thing is that they keep the hawkers outside so it is nice and peaceful inside. Again, even though it was quiet, it took a couple of hours to do all the paperwork.

Exterior view of a modern building with large glass windows and a colorful metal structure, featuring green support beams and a red roof. A few people and vehicles can be seen in the foreground.
Looks more like an airport than a border crossing

We had a quick stop in lovely Dedza Pottery and Lodge where we bought some plates, you can also buy online. Dedza Mountain is nearly 2200m and it was pretty cold and rainy so we didn’t do any hiking.

A scenic view of a building with multiple entrances surrounded by lush green grass, trees, and colorful flowering plants, with mountains in the background.
Stack of decorative plates with leopard print edges on a wooden surface.

Time to go to the lake! The drive to Cape Maclear was beautiful but the roads weren’t great. Malawi has many villages unlike Mozambique where you can drive long stretches without seeing much. We drove through many scenes of chaos, colours and goats. So many goats… Our destination was Domwe Island and what a paradise that was. The lake is simply stunning. I had been to it in Mozambique many years ago and the Malawi side didn’t disappoint. Kayak Africa are the people to book with if you want to stay on the island. We were the only people there for the first night and then had one person joining us. Quiet and peaceful.

A young woman holding a tomato stands in front of several plates stacked with tomatoes, overlooking a mountainous landscape under a clear blue sky.
Buying local
A vibrant outdoor market scene featuring women selling neatly arranged stacks of tomatoes on plates, with mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.
Bicycles standing on a dirt road, each loaded with large logs, with a scenic backdrop of mountains and trees under a clear blue sky.
On the way to the lake
A small brick shop with a thatched roof selling various goods, including fruits and vegetables, set in a rural landscape. A child stands nearby.
Local grocery shop
A man pushing a bicycle alongside a woman walking on a quiet road, surrounded by hills and vegetation under a clear blue sky.
Children playing and swimming in a sandy beach area by a calm lake, with a small boat anchored nearby and people engaged in various activities along the shore.
Cape Maclear
A serene view of a calm sea with two small boats floating, and a distant mountain range under a clear blue sky.
A tranquil seascape featuring a calm ocean with three fishing boats anchored, and a person paddling a small boat in the foreground, framed by a distant mountain under a clear blue sky.
Two people standing in a traditional wooden canoe on calm blue waters, with a distant green island under a clear sky.
A serene seascape with a single fisherman in a small boat on calm blue waters, with a distant green island and clear blue sky.

Domwe Island is the largest unpopulated island in Lake Malawi, with a circumference of 11km and a highest point 400m above lake level. Domwe Island, unlike all other Lake Malawi islands, is well populated with mammals that have crossed onto the island during these dry times. We saw genets and serval cats each evening at camp. The camp is simple and off grid with bucket showers, and we stayed in one of their safari tents to save carting all our gear on the boat.

View from a boat towards a sandy beach with people sitting, surrounded by greenery and rocky formations.
Arrival, lovely small beach
A man in a blue t-shirt sitting in a boat with a scenic view of blue water and lush greenery in the background. Another man, wearing a white shirt and cap, is in the driver's seat, navigating the boat.
Interior of a cozy tent featuring two beds with blue patterned bedding and purple towels, a wicker chair, and a view of nature through open windows.
A small fishing boat named 'Baby Ella' docked on a sandy shore, with a man standing beside it. The boat has a green and white color scheme and a thatched roof. The scene showcases calm blue waters and distant hills under a clear blue sky.
Four people smiling and posing together outdoors, surrounded by trees with a glimpse of water in the background.
These guys were great looking after us
A rustic outdoor scene featuring a large boulder, a hanging bucket, and a bamboo fence, set against a clear blue sky.
The shower
A person rowing a wooden canoe in a calm blue sea, with a faint coastal landscape visible in the background.
A person paddling a canoe across a calm body of water, surrounded by tall grasses and boulders, with a mountainous background.
A boat with several people sailing on calm waters during sunset, with a large, bright sun setting on the horizon and a gentle pink sky.
A kingfisher perched on a rocky surface by the water, with a blurred blue background.
Pied kingfisher, such adorable birds.
A kingfisher perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking a body of water, with its head tilted upwards.
A kingfisher perched on a rocky surface with a blurred blue background of water.
Two black-and-white kingfishers perched on a rocky surface, with a blue ocean in the background.
This couple was always together, chatting to each other. The male has the two bands across the chest, male on the left.
Two kingfishers perched on a rocky surface with a blue water background.
Two kingfishers perched on a rocky surface with a blurred blue water background.
Two pied kingfishers perched on a rocky ledge against a blurred blue water background.
Two black-and-white striped birds perched on a rocky surface with a blurred blue water background.
A bird in flight over a body of water, with a clear blue sky and distant trees in the background.
Hamerkop in flight
A small spotted cat walking across a rocky terrain illuminated by a spotlight.
Serval cat
A serene sunset over a calm ocean, with a boat in the foreground and distant islands silhouetted against the colorful sky.
Silhouetted boat on a calm sea at sunset, with vibrant orange and purple sky.
Sunset over calm water with two boats in the distance and gentle reflections on the surface.
A serene sunset over calm water, with the sun reflecting on the surface, and a silhouette of trees in the foreground.
Scenic view of a tranquil beach at sunset, with rocks in the foreground and an island visible in the distance.
Scenic view of a lake surrounded by rocky shores and trees with autumn foliage, against a backdrop of distant mountains during sunset.
A serene lakeside view at sunset, featuring a red kayak on the sandy shore, large boulders, and distant mountains silhouetted against the evening sky.
A small boat with four people on board navigating through blue waters, featuring a flag and the phrase 'THINK B4 YOU DO' painted on the side.
Two small boats on a calm blue lake with fishermen on board, surrounded by lush green hills in the background.
A scenic view of a beach with golden sand, scattered rocks, and clear blue water. In the background, green hills are visible under a clear sky.
A boat named 'Mphuno Salota' floating on a calm body of water, with several people on board and a distant shoreline visible in the background.
Two fishing boats on a blue lake, one with a blue tarp and the other with a white sail, while fishermen are seen aboard each boat.
A fishing boat with several people on board navigating through blue waters, with distant islands visible in the background.
A small boat sailing on calm blue waters near a lush green hill under a clear sky.

We did a hike on the island that turned out to take longer than expected. The path was pretty steep, through forest and rough rocky terrain, about 400 meters above the lake, which put us somewhere around 800m to 900m above sea level. It definitely wasn’t an easy walk and took us 4 hours round trip. I won’t be doing that again, but the views at the top were fantastic.

A close-up of a lizard with a blue tail and brown body resting on a dark, textured surface littered with dry leaves.
A person climbing a vertical rock face using a green ladder, surrounded by trees and foliage, with a white arrow painted on the rock indicating the upward direction.
A man with curly hair poses near a viewpoint surrounded by trees, overlooking a blue body of water and distant hills.
Made it to the top!
A person sitting on a large rock, overlooking a scenic ocean view surrounded by trees and blue skies.
A man stands on a rock with one leg raised, overlooking a vast blue ocean surrounded by trees and a clear sky.
A man and a woman taking a selfie outdoors, with trees and a blue sky in the background.
A smiling man and woman taking a selfie outdoors, with natural rocks and foliage in the background.
View of bare trees overlooking a blue ocean under a clear sky.
A person climbing over large rocks in a rugged, natural landscape with sparse trees and dry foliage.
More of a scramble up steep rocks than a hike…
A tranquil sunset over the ocean with a gradient of warm orange and purple hues, silhouetted by dark foliage on the right and a distant island on the horizon.
A man and woman are smiling in a selfie with a sunset over the water in the background.
A man and a woman smiling for a selfie at sunset by the ocean, with a colorful sky in the background.
A person sitting on a rock by the water, looking out at the ocean and distant islands during sunset.
A serene sunset over a calm sea, with a distant island visible on the horizon and warm orange hues reflecting on the water.
A serene lakeside view with rocky shores, gentle waves, and distant hills under a pastel sunset sky.
Two wooden boats floating in calm blue water with a mountainous shoreline in the background.
A tranquil beach scene featuring a calm sea, with a person swimming in the distance, surrounded by large rocks and gentle waves under a clear sky.
Two people in canoes paddling on a calm sea with a sandy beach and rocky shoreline in the foreground.
A serene view of a lake with gentle waves, featuring large rocks on the sandy shore and distant hills in the background under a clear blue sky.

From the lake, we made our way to the Zomba Mountains and to Zomba Forest Lodge. Again we went past many small towns and villages and then got very lost in the mountains trying to find the lodge. I hadn’t read their instructions which specifically warned not to use Google maps!

A clothes market stall displaying various styles of jeans and jackets hanging on a wooden rack, with a person sitting in front on the ground amid a pile of clothing.
Clothes shopping
A busy outdoor market with people browsing through piles of clothes, surrounded by umbrellas for shade. Several vendors sell garments, while customers sit on the ground amidst a colourful display of fabrics.
A vibrant outdoor market stall displaying a variety of clothing, including jackets, shirts, and trousers, hung on wooden racks under clear blue skies. A person in a red shirt examines the clothes.
A bustling market scene with vendors and customers engaged in purchasing and selling various items including shoes and bags, under colourful awnings. The background features partially constructed buildings and a clear blue sky.
One of many towns…
A person riding a bicycle along a rural road, carrying large bundles of goods on their back, with dry grass and trees lining the roadside.
A rocky path meandering through a hilly landscape, with patches of earth and sparse vegetation, overlooking a vast valley and distant mountains.
Lost…
Mountain roads, where is the lodge??
A group of children and a woman smiling in front of a building, showcasing a vibrant community atmosphere.
Lost in the mountains…

A very nice, low key lodge with delicious food and beautiful walks. They only have five rooms so it feels like you are house sharing and it is very communal. We were lucky to have had some great people staying or it might have been a little awkward! They are in the middle of a gorgeous forest and there are plenty of walks around the lodge. A lovely, peaceful stay, highly recommend it.

A cozy bedroom featuring a large bed with white linens and colorful pillows, adorned with a decorative wall hanging with elephants. The room has warm yellow walls and ambient lighting from lanterns, with framed pictures on the walls and a window draped with curtains.

The forest around the lodge is truly stunning!

A small waterfall cascading down rocks, surrounded by dense green foliage and tropical plants, with rain creating a misty atmosphere.
A small waterfall cascading over dark rocks, surrounded by lush green foliage and tropical plants in a forested area.
A person standing on a narrow path surrounded by tall tropical plants, looking upwards in a lush, green environment.
A smiling woman wearing a purple sleeveless top and a backpack, standing on a forested path surrounded by greenery.
A person standing in a tropical forest with lush green plants and tall trees, posing playfully on a dirt path.
A dense jungle scene featuring tall green foliage, trees, and sunlight filtering through the leaves, creating a rich, natural atmosphere.
View looking up at tall pine trees against a clear blue sky, with green foliage around the edges.
A dense jungle scene featuring lush green foliage, large leaves, and a fallen log, with sunlight filtering through the trees.

And so are the sunsets. A short walk from the lodge, there was the most amazing view and sunsets.

A couple stands together in front of a sunset over mountains, surrounded by greenery.
Panoramic view of a sunset over rolling hills and mountains, with warm orange and yellow hues illuminating the sky.
A scenic sunset over a mountainous landscape, with the sun casting a warm orange glow against the horizon and silhouetted trees in the foreground.
A woman wearing a striped dress carries a bundle of sticks on her head while walking on a narrow path surrounded by lush greenery.

We went on a hike along the river in the mountains, so, so beautiful.

A picturesque waterfall cascading over smooth rocks, surrounded by lush greenery and sunlight filtering through the trees.
A tranquil forest scene featuring a stream surrounded by lush greenery and large trees, with sunlight filtering through the foliage.
A flowing waterfall cascading over smooth rocks, surrounded by lush greenery and trees in a serene natural setting.
A serene waterfall cascading over rocky formations, surrounded by lush greenery and a pool of water at the base.
A tranquil stream flowing through a lush green forest, surrounded by large rocks and dense vegetation.

The old capital of Malawi (until 1975) at sunset – Zomba.

A scenic view of mountains at dawn, with soft hues of orange and blue in the sky and greenery in the foreground.
A quiet rural road lined with trees at sunset, with two people walking in the distance and mountains in the background.
A panoramic view of a mountainous landscape at sunset, featuring hazy hills and valleys under a soft, colourful sky.
Four children smiling and posing together outdoors, in front of a low stone wall and a simple house, with greenery in the background.

Making our way towards Mozambique…

People washing clothes in a river surrounded by large stones and lush greenery.
A group of joyful children posing together outdoors, smiling and showing peace signs, with a background of grass and rocks.
A bicycle loaded with firewood on a rural road, with a person riding the bike and another cyclist visible in the background.
A person riding a bicycle with a wooden structure on the back, on a rural road lined with trees and a blue sky.
Sign for Nkhalakatha Catholic Boys Secondary School in Malawi with a bicycle carrying yellow water containers parked nearby.
A bicycle cart heavily loaded with yellow jerry cans, parked on a dirt road with a mountainous backdrop.
A bicycle loaded with large sacks and colourful ropes on a rural road, with a motorcyclist visible in the background.
A person riding a bicycle with a large wooden cart attached, two cyclists coming from the opposite direction on a rural road surrounded by greenery.

We drove through Mulanje with incredible views of the mountains towards the Mozambican border, our final leg of the Malawi trip. The tea plantations were so green and lush. Malawi was the first country in Africa where tea was planted commercially in 1908. The first seeds were planted experimentally near Blantyre by Scottish missionaries in the 1880s. This is definitely a place where you could spend a few days walking and sipping tea.

A panoramic view of lush green hills with a prominent mountain range in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
A rural road leading towards a mountain, with sparse vegetation, tropical trees, and a few thatched huts on the side.
A large mountain stands majestically in the background, with a clear blue sky above. In the foreground, there are several buildings, and a group of people, including children, are gathered outside enjoying the day.
A large tree with a broad canopy stands beside a lush green tea plantation, under a clear blue sky.
A large tree in front of a lush green tea plantation, with rolling hills in the background under a clear blue sky.
A white SUV parked beside a road, with lush green tea plantations and tall trees in the background, under a clear blue sky.
A scenic landscape featuring a lush tea plantation with rolling hills in the background and clear blue skies.
Exterior view of the Muloza Customs and Excise office in Malawi, featuring a red generator and a parked motorcycle.
Cute little border post

Malawi was incredibly beautiful and it was quite a surprise, really wasn’t expecting it. From the lake to the mountains and the warmth of the people, it left us wanting to come back for more.

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