Map showing a travel route highlighting various locations in Zambia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, and Malawi with a blue line.

Final leg of the road trip, nearing the 6,000 kms mark! What a journey it has been. Malawi was definitely the wild card, totally unexpected beauty. Let’s see what Mozambique throws at us. After a very easy and quick border crossing, we stayed in Mocuba on the Licungo river. Not much to say about Mocuba, not much to do in Mocuba. The river was pretty and there were crazy motorbike riders, nearly hit a couple of them.

A view of the Licungo bridge with a road and pedestrians, featuring a blue sky and scattered clouds.
Not my photo

This part of the country is pretty empty with beautiful mountains and scenery. There were not many places to stop so we settled at M’phingwe Lodge near Caia off the EN1. It was an unusual place and we found out that it sits on 25,000 hectares of a Catapu forestry concession and 9,960 hectare Catapu Safaris game farm belonging to TCT Dalmann. They also have a sawmill which is now part of Gorongosa, and lots of hiking paths. They use abandoned fallen wood and turn it into tables, desks, chairs and other wooden items and works of art. You can buy their work at the sawmill and it is so cheap!

A view of a bustling market alley with vendors selling various goods, including clothing and fruits. The scene features a woman browsing items on display, surrounded by hanging fabrics and cluttered stalls.
Spot of shopping in Caia market
A cozy wooden cabin surrounded by trees, featuring a porch with two chairs and large windows, set in a natural outdoor environment.
Our cabin in the woods
A circular fire pit surrounded by wooden stools and chairs with cushions in an outdoor setting, featuring scattered leaves on the earthy ground.
An old, industrial band saw machine in a wooden workshop, showing rust and wear, with timber boards on the floor.
Very old machines at the sawmill
A craftsman wearing protective goggles operating a wood lathe in a workshop, shaping a piece of wood.
Close-up of a craftsman shaping wood on a lathe, with sawdust flying in the air.

It is a very serene place apart from the many Sykes’ monkeys who seemed to like to hang around us! They’re so cute.

A green monkey sitting on a branch in a forest, looking directly at the camera.
A baboon sitting on a tree trunk, showing its teeth and yawning in a natural environment.
A baboon sitting on a tree trunk, surrounded by a natural forest background with dry leaves and branches.
A monkey sitting on a branch, holding a piece of food, surrounded by green leaves and trees.
A close-up of a monkey sitting on a tree branch, looking directly at the camera with intense eyes, surrounded by natural vegetation.
A grey monkey standing on a bed of dried leaves in a natural setting.

Although it was quite dry, there were still a few lakes around the forest.

A peaceful landscape featuring a calm water body surrounded by lush greenery and trees under a clear blue sky.
A tranquil wetland scene with water reflecting greenery, surrounded by trees and lily pads.
A dense, green cactus-like plant with jagged leaves, surrounded by dry leaves and trees in a woodland area.

From the forest to Gorongosa. We have been on bad roads, some very bad roads over the years but these roads from Caia all the way to Inhambane were the worst roads ever. Imagine a really awful road and multiply by 10. Massive holes, broken tarmac and trucks.

A foggy road scene with two cyclists in the foreground, surrounded by tall grass and low visibility.
Had a very chilly, foggy start to the day
Here we go, time to dodge the craters
A rural scene featuring a thatched hut surrounded by a ploughed field, with a large bare tree and two children playing in the foreground under a partly cloudy blue sky.
A lorry carrying a covered boat on a rural road, with a power line and cloudy sky in the background.
How???

We crossed many rivers full of people washing and playing in the water. It is a beautiful area, green, mountainous and with plenty of water. It is, sadly, incredibly poor and deprived, more so than the southern part of the country.

A scenic view of a rocky riverbed with patches of water and greenery, where several people are engaged in activities such as washing clothes and collecting water.
A serene river flowing through a lush green landscape, with people washing clothes and engaging in activities by the water's edge.
A group of people, including children and women, are washing clothes by a river surrounded by lush greenery and rocky terrain.
A serene river scene with two children playing in the water while two adults wash clothes on the riverbank surrounded by lush greenery.
A diverse group of children, smiling and raising their hands, outdoors in a rural setting. They are wearing colourful, casual clothing, with a thatched hut visible in the background.
School run by a local woman
A large group of children gathered together outdoors, smiling and posing for the photo. They are dressed in a variety of colourful clothes and surrounded by trees and a rustic setting.
A rustic outdoor classroom structure made of sticks and a corrugated metal roof, with several empty desks inside, situated in a dry, grassy area.
Local school
Traditional thatched huts surrounded by greenery under a blue sky.
Typical villages
A rural settlement featuring thatched-roof huts, with goats grazing around and people engaged in daily activities under a blue sky.
A rural landscape featuring several traditional huts made of mud and thatch, surrounded by trees and dry grass.
A shaded gathering area with wooden benches under large trees in an outdoor environment.
Village meeting place
A woman carrying a large bundle on her head walks towards a simple thatched-roof hut in a rural setting. A dog is seen in front of the hut, and lush greenery surrounds the area.
Capulana shop
A dirt road flanked by dense vegetation and trees under a partly cloudy sky, with a few people visible in the distance.
A bus is stuck on a muddy road surrounded by tall grass and trees, with people assisting nearby and a puddle of water reflecting the sky.
The road!
This was a great road, apart from the dust… This is the N1, the main road that crosses the whole of Mozambique
A group of children holding up wooden spoons against a natural background.
Yes, we did buy one…
A group of four children holding wooden spoons, standing in a grassy area with trees in the background.

Crossing into Mozambique from Malawi, all the way to Gorongosa, there was no petrol available. We hoped that Gorongosa town would have some but nothing. The town itself was pleasant enough, if you are there and hungry, we recommend Ricardo’s Place, cheap and tasty local food. My expectations for Gorongosa were very low. I had heard that it is beautiful but that animals are scarce. Well, we were pleasantly surprised. On my 60th birthday, we came across some stunning lions and lionesses and we were also able to visit Mozambique’s first dedicated pangolin rescue and rehab programme in the park, which has saved over 160 pangolins since it began in 2018.

Entrance to Gorongosa National Park, featuring a gate, a guard, and surrounding trees in a dry landscape.
Very active pangolin, video is oddly stretched!
A close-up image of a pangolin being held, showing its distinctive scales and features.
A person holds a pangolin against their chest, showcasing its unique scaled body and curious expression, set against a natural background of trees.
A person wearing a grey hoodie is holding a pangolin close to their chest, while standing outdoors near a building and trees.
A person holding a pangolin in their arms, showcasing the animal's distinctive scaly body and small face.

We camped in the park and were the only people in the campsite with more pesky monkeys for company. It is really nice and the facilities are incredible.

A campsite in a sandy area featuring a green tent, a white SUV parked nearby, and a person sitting at a table with drinks, surrounded by trees.
A grey monkey sitting quietly beneath a wooden table in an indoor space, with a plain wall in the background.

Two gorgeous young lionesses chilling

A lioness resting in tall grass, surrounded by a natural landscape.
A lioness resting on the ground among tall grass and foliage, gazing into the distance.
A lioness lying on the ground, resting with her body stretched out and head turned to the side.
A lioness resting on the ground, with her head resting on her paws, against a blurred natural background.
A scenic landscape featuring lush green grass, several large trees, and a herd of deer grazing in the background under a cloudy sky.
A serene landscape featuring scattered trees and dried earth under a cloudy sky, with the sun rising in the background.
A group of vultures gathered on the ground, foraging in a grassy area surrounded by scattered debris.
Vultures eating something, couldn’t tell what.

Young male lion, all to ourselves for as long as we wanted!

Need the sound on!
A male lion resting on the ground with its eyes closed, showcasing its thick mane and strong build.
A lion walking in its natural habitat, showcasing its mane and strong physique.
A majestic lion walking on a sandy surface, showcasing its powerful build and thick mane.
A close-up of a lion lying on the ground, looking directly at the camera with a calm expression.
A lion lying on the ground with its head raised, amidst a natural landscape of grass and bushes.
A lion resting on the ground, looking directly at the viewer with a serene expression, surrounded by a natural, grassy environment.
A lion lying on the ground, with a focused gaze, surrounded by a natural habitat.
A lion lying on the ground with a calm expression, surrounded by dry grass and foliage.
A lion lying on the sandy ground, facing to the left, with a mane and a calm expression.
A lion yawning while resting on the ground, showcasing its sharp teeth and mane.
A male lion lying on the ground, yawning with eyes closed, showcasing its mane and muscular body.
A close-up of a lion resting on sandy ground, showcasing its mane and facial features.
A relaxed lion lying on sandy ground in a natural setting.
A lion resting on the ground with a calm expression, showcasing its muscular body and distinctive mane.

And then, out of the blue, a male lion charged our chilled male lion!

There are around 65,000 waterbuck in the park, making it the densest and largest population of this antelope species anywhere in Africa. We saw them everywhere with a higher concentration around the floodplains.

A group of four waterbuck standing on a muddy, green landscape, with two swans in the foreground.
A young waterbuck standing in a natural setting, with a grassy background and logs in the distance.
A waterbuck lying on green grass, looking to the side.
A waterbuck grazing on green grass near a wetland area.
A waterbuck standing in a grassy field, facing away from the camera, showcasing its distinctive curved horns and brown fur.

The second day was equally beautiful and we saw some fabulous lions at sunset, again all to ourselves. These have got to be the best lion sightings ever!

A lioness resting on a sandy mound with a calm expression, set against a muted sky.
A female lion resting on a sandy mound, gazing into the distance, with greenery blurred in the background.
Two lions in a natural setting, one standing and looking directly at the camera, and the other resting on the ground nearby.
So chilled….
A lion standing on elevated ground, looking back towards the viewer, with a backdrop of muted greenery.
A close-up image of a lioness lying on a sandy surface in black and white.
A close-up view of two lions resting in tall grass, with one lioness in the foreground and another slightly behind her, surrounded by small green shrubs.
A lioness resting peacefully while another lion yawns in the background, surrounded by dry grass and greenery.
Two lions lounging in the grass, with one looking directly at the camera and the other slightly behind, both displaying a serene expression.
Two lions sitting side by side in a natural habitat, with green foliage in the background.
Two lions playing in the grass, one lying on its back and the other watching closely among the foliage.
Two lions sitting side by side in a dry grassy landscape, with green foliage in the foreground.
A close-up of a female lion resting in tall grass, looking directly at the camera with a serious expression.
Two lions resting in a natural landscape, one yawning and the other looking attentively, surrounded by sparse grass and greenery.
A lioness lying down on a sandy surface, gazing into the distance with a blurred landscape in the background.
A lioness resting on a mound, gazing thoughtfully into the distance, surrounded by a natural landscape.
A lioness reclining on the ground, gazing into the distance, with a blurred natural background.
Two lions resting in a grassy landscape, partially hidden by bushes.
A lioness resting on a mound of earth in a dry landscape, surrounded by sparse vegetation and distant trees.
A lioness lounging on a grassy mound near a bush, with a blurred background of trees.
A bird with outstretched wings perches on a small branch over a body of water, surrounded by greenery.
African darter known as a snake bird, drying its feathers
A large crocodile resting on the riverbank surrounded by vegetation.
This guy was so massive!
Two marabou storks standing by a muddy water edge in a natural habitat, surrounded by lush greenery.
Maribou storks
A stork standing in shallow water near grassy terrain, displaying its distinctive blue and white plumage and long legs.
A waterbuck standing in a lush green landscape surrounded by foliage.
More waterbucks at sunset
A waterbuck grazing near a bush, showcasing its long horns and brown fur.
A waterbuck grazing on grass with its head lowered, showcasing its long, curved horns and brown fur, surrounded by lush greenery.
A woman standing on an open savannah with a safari vehicle in the background, surrounded by sparse trees and grassland.
A sunset with a partially obscured sun emerging from behind grey clouds, creating a pink and orange glow in the sky.

Time to hit the coast. Inhassoro was an unexpected jewel. Sadly, the weather wasn’t warm enough to frolick in the sea but the space, scenery and lack of people more than made up for that. What an amazing beach and a lovely small town. We stayed at Yellow Fin Lodge, their shared kitchen/dining area is just fabulous.

A spacious and well-lit bedroom featuring a large bed, decorative pillows, and a bedside lamp. There are large windows with curtains revealing a tropical landscape outside, including palm trees and pathway. A wooden seating area is visible to the right, creating a tranquil setting.
Interior view of a kitchen featuring a decorative whale tail motif on the wall, modern appliances, natural materials, and tropical plants.
A person riding a motorcycle along a sandy beach with gentle waves lapping at the shore, framed by palm trees and a clear sky.
View from our room
A scenic view of a tranquil beach featuring golden sand, clear blue water, and a clear sky. A single person is walking along the shoreline, with palm trees framing the scene.
A serene beach scene featuring a sandy shoreline, gentle waves lapping at the shore, and a cloudy sky above. Lush palm trees line the beach in the background.
A man sitting on the sand with five dogs on a beach, enjoying a sunny day.
Geoff made some friends, he looks so happy! I wanted to bring one home…
A person sitting on a beach with their dog, facing the sea, while gentle waves roll in.
Two dogs playfully interacting on a sandy beach.
Two dogs playing on the beach, one standing and the other lying down, with a calm sea in the background.
A man walking along the beach carrying a surfboard, with gentle waves lapping at the shore.
A weathered yellow fishing boat floating in calm blue waters, with a small cabin and fishing gear visible.
Two fishing boats floating on calm water, one yellow and one blue, with a clear sky in the background.
A small yellow fishing boat with several people onboard, floating on calm blue waters.
Three white birds standing on a sandy beach near the water's edge, with two birds preening and one looking away.
African Spoonbills
A person holding a vibrant red starfish with textured arms, standing on a sandy beach.
A small, weathered boat with a single mast floats on calm blue waters, under a clear sky.

In the morning, the fishermen and women, came to the beach to collect their nets. It took quite a while to pull them in and it made for an interesting criss crossing of ropes and nets.

An abandoned wooden boat resting on a sandy beach, partially submerged in shallow water, with clear blue skies in the background.
Three individuals pulling a wooden boat onto a sandy beach with calm sea and clear blue sky in the background.
Fishermen pulling in a fishing net along a sandy beach under a clear blue sky, with a boat in the background.
Silhouettes of four fishermen pulling a fishing net along the shore, with calm waters and clouds in the background.
Fishermen pulling a net along a sandy beach with calm water and a small boat in the background.
People walking along a sandy beach, pulling fishing nets towards the water under a clear blue sky.
Three people standing on a sandy beach with the sea in the background; they are near some tangled ropes on the ground.
A panoramic view of a tranquil beach featuring palm trees, soft white sand, and clear blue waters under a bright blue sky. Small boats can be seen in the distance.
A serene beach view featuring golden sand, calm blue waters, and small fishing boats in the distance under a clear blue sky.
A tranquil beach scene at sunset, featuring a silhouette of palm trees and a small boat on the sand. The sky is illuminated with warm orange and yellow hues as the sun sets on the horizon.
Inhassoro sunset
A motorboat with a blue cover carrying several passengers, cruising across calm waters with a sandy shore and people walking in the background.
Inhambane, getting closer to home…
A fishing boat with a large sail anchored in shallow water, with several fishermen standing nearby on a sandy shore, palm trees visible in the background.
A sandy path leads down to a beach with gentle waves, framed by greenery and sand dunes under a clear blue sky.
Tofo beach from up on the dunes
A panoramic view of a sandy beach with clear blue water, surrounded by lush greenery and a few buildings in the background.
A panoramic view of a sandy beach with gentle waves lapping at the shore under a clear blue sky.
A wide sandy beach with gentle waves and a clear blue sky, featuring a few people walking in the distance and a lifeguard station visible on the shore.
A serene beach scene with gentle waves lapping at the shore under a clear blue sky. A small red tent is set up on the sand, and a few people are enjoying the beach in the distance.
Tofo beach
A wooden frame holding a large orange buoy stands on a sandy beach under a cloudy sky, with mangroves and boats in the background.
Barra beach, my favourite with very moody skies before the heavens opened
A serene beach scene with sandy shores, clear turquoise waters, and a distant sailboat against a cloudy sky.
A sailing boat with a large triangular sail gliding across a turquoise sea, with a distant silhouette of palm trees along the horizon.
A white SUV parked on a sandy beach surrounded by palm trees, with a small boat in the background.
Abandoned wooden boat partially covered by sand, surrounded by lush palm trees on a tropical beach.
Abandoned wooden boat on a sandy beach surrounded by lush palm trees.
A small sailboat with a black sail is sailing on calm blue waters, with a few people on board and a distant view of trees along the horizon.

And just like that, the trip comes to an end.

We covered so much ground and got to experience such a mix of places along the way. Despite the cold winter weather, the daytime sunshine was ideal.

No idea where the next adventure will be yet, but I’m looking forward to finding out. Until next time!

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